Synthetic Teak Interior Floor Recommendations

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Dougcole

Guru
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
2,167
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Morgan
Vessel Make
'05 Mainship 40T
About four years ago we installed NUTeak synthetic teak and holly flooring in our main cabin, we love it but they no longer make it. We are ready to do the Fwd and guest cabins now. Anyone have a recommendation?


Also, does anyone know an installer in the Stuart, Florida area?


Thanks,


Doug
 
Our MS 34HT had PlasTeak sheet goods in the saloon. When looking at options to replace the carpet in fwd cabin I che ked with Plasteak. Picked a match from samples and decided to include their padding under the sheet sheet goods. I made a pattern and had factory cut both pad & top sheet and glued it down myself.
We love the feel underfoot with the pad.
I have a thread somewhere w pics if interested I can do some searching.
 
Our MS 34HT had PlasTeak sheet goods in the saloon. When looking at options to replace the carpet in fwd cabin I che ked with Plasteak. Picked a match from samples and decided to include their padding under the sheet sheet goods. I made a pattern and had factory cut both pad & top sheet and glued it down myself.
We love the feel underfoot with the pad.
I have a thread somewhere w pics if interested I can do some searching.


Hey Don,


Pics would be much appreciated, thanks.


Did you notice a difference in the levels of the floors with the pad under them compared to the old flooring? They are separated by moldings, correct?


I am kicking around doing it myself, but we are in the midst of our busy season and I'd really like to get ti done rather than putting it on my long to do list. The old carpet is bothering my wife's allergies.


Doug
 
Just my opinion, but I vote for PermaTeek. Before doing my deck and floors I did some online searching for reviews an it was rated among the best. Several seasons so far, still holding up perfectly and looks very wood-like. Some synthetic teaks are very plastic looking, you can spot them a mile away. Do some research and looking before you pick.
 
Just my opinion, but I vote for PermaTeek. Before doing my deck and floors I did some online searching for reviews an it was rated among the best. Several seasons so far, still holding up perfectly and looks very wood-like. Some synthetic teaks are very plastic looking, you can spot them a mile away. Do some research and looking before you pick.


Thanks, I will check it out.



The NuTeak has been great and looks "real" even up close. I hate that they don't make it anymore.
 
PermaTeek looks and actually feels very wood-like. There are many choices you can make during the design process. Different colors and shades of wood, types of borders you like, etc. This is the website of my installer including some pics of my boat since it came out so well. I know it's not local to you but you'll get a look at some examples.

https://www.northcountryboatworks.com/permateek
 
Doug
Here is the post link for our fwd cabin sole project
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s11/ms-34-t-ht-fwd-cabin-sole-upgrade-46119.html
Our fwd cabin is a few steps down from the saloon so no thickness issue there. I di do the are outside the fwd cabin that is at the same level as the head but there is a break sort of a threshold there. The head already had the same material so now all interior flooring is the same look. I was concerned I'd have to finish the edge of the one hatch & opening with the pad but the folks at Plasteak/Plasdeck said many do it without any moldings if the gap is small. They also advised if the off white pad color showed to simply darken it with a sharpie or furniture scratch repair "pen". I had them make the kerf small and the hatch almost disappears. I did darken the edge of the pad. As I said we do like the softer feel underfoot - especially bare feet.
 
Amtico is used by Nordic Tug and I believe American Tug. We did our salon and pilothouse with Amtico and still going strong after 6 years.

Tom
 
Amtico is used by Nordic Tug and I believe American Tug. We did our salon and pilothouse with Amtico and still going strong after 6 years.

Tom


Thanks Tom. Did you do a teak and holly stripped plank look or the same color overall? I checked out their website and didn't see the teak and holly. I need to match what is already in the main salon and companionway.
 
Doug
Here is the post link for our fwd cabin sole project
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s11/ms-34-t-ht-fwd-cabin-sole-upgrade-46119.html
Our fwd cabin is a few steps down from the saloon so no thickness issue there. I di do the are outside the fwd cabin that is at the same level as the head but there is a break sort of a threshold there. The head already had the same material so now all interior flooring is the same look. I was concerned I'd have to finish the edge of the one hatch & opening with the pad but the folks at Plasteak/Plasdeck said many do it without any moldings if the gap is small. They also advised if the off white pad color showed to simply darken it with a sharpie or furniture scratch repair "pen". I had them make the kerf small and the hatch almost disappears. I did darken the edge of the pad. As I said we do like the softer feel underfoot - especially bare feet.


Thanks Don. I saw that thread some time back and it looks fantastic.



What did you do for the vertical "kicks" in the area where you step up beside the bed. Looking at your pics your boat's seem to be about four inches tall, on ours they are closer to ten. My initial thought is to do them a solid teak color with no holly strips in between.



Also, what about the exposed edge of the upper platform?
 
Doug,

We did the teak with holly strips. Not the easiest to put down as you use a two part epoxy adhesive. Amitco is very hard to buy, at least it was when we did ours. I have a contact in the La Conner area who has done quite a few of these upgrades after he helped doing ours. I suspect he has solved the buying problem.

Tom
 
Doug
Here is the post link for our fwd cabin sole project
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s11/ms-34-t-ht-fwd-cabin-sole-upgrade-46119.html
Our fwd cabin is a few steps down from the saloon so no thickness issue there. I di do the are outside the fwd cabin that is at the same level as the head but there is a break sort of a threshold there. The head already had the same material so now all interior flooring is the same look. I was concerned I'd have to finish the edge of the one hatch & opening with the pad but the folks at Plasteak/Plasdeck said many do it without any moldings if the gap is small. They also advised if the off white pad color showed to simply darken it with a sharpie or furniture scratch repair "pen". I had them make the kerf small and the hatch almost disappears. I did darken the edge of the pad. As I said we do like the softer feel underfoot - especially bare feet.


Don:
Given the difficulty in removing the old, right down to the wood below it, what do you think about just leaving it there and laying the plastic teak on top of the old carpet?
I did this once in my last but 1 house, and it worked a treat, was there 10 years or so before the house was sold, with no issues whatsoever.
 
We used Lonseal sheet flooring in the heads of our boat. It looks very realistic and was easy to work with.
 
Check out PlasTeak products. Ohio company has website. Our vinyl teak exterior decking still looks great at 4 years.
 
Thanks Don. I saw that thread some time back and it looks fantastic.



What did you do for the vertical "kicks" in the area where you step up beside the bed. Looking at your pics your boat's seem to be about four inches tall, on ours they are closer to ten. My initial thought is to do them a solid teak color with no holly strips in between.



Also, what about the exposed edge of the upper platform?
Vertical kicks/ riser I used the same material in the solid. I think it was cherry that was the closest color match to MS walls. I forget exactly but seem to recall the top of the step to the galley had a L shaped molding and I left that and slid the riser matl behind it. I was afraid of the inside corner pulling apart and finally decided to simply heat and bend a continuous piece. So the inside corner is actually a small radius. I did put some extra adhesive in the corner for support.
In the fwd cabin I left the rolled edge of carpet on the small angled steps and finished the vertical riser with the solid cherry? Sheet Material
 
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Don:

Given the difficulty in removing the old, right down to the wood below it, what do you think about just leaving it there and laying the plastic teak on top of the old carpet?

I did this once in my last but 1 house, and it worked a treat, was there 10 years or so before the house was sold, with no issues whatsoever.
I guess I never considered that but as an after thought it would likely be a problem around the hatch. MS rolled the carpet down inside the opening and outside the hatch itself. It worked fine with the carpet and filled the gap wellnand hatch sort of disappeared. After stripping carpet I made the template to the larger hatch opening so there was no overhang of the vinyl. I then made a new plywood hatch cover the exact size of the vinyl piece that was cut very close to the opening size. Worked out well and is a tight fit. I was able to taper / angle the edge slightly so there is clearance inserting the hatch in the opening and the gap closes as it reaches the final level.

I left the rolled edge of carpet on the small angled steps and finished the vertical riser with the solid cherry? Sheet Material
 
Vertical kicks/ riser I used the same material in the solid. I think it was cherry that was the closest color match to MS walls. I forget exactly but seem to recall the top of the step to the galley had a L shaped molding and I left that and slid the riser matl behind it. I was afraid of the inside corner pulling apart and finally decided to simply heat and bend a continuous piece. So the inside corner is actually a small radius. I did put some extra adhesive in the corner for support.
In the fwd cabin I left the rolled edge of carpet on the small angled steps and finished the vertical riser with the solid cherry? Sheet Material


Interesting.


In addition to needing new flooring on our boat the vinyl liner material on the hull sides, as discussed in other threads, is peeling and needs to be addressed. Another poster had a canvas guy glue a headliner carpet over it, and it seems to have worked well. I'm friends with one of the top yard guys over at Grand Banks and he took a look at my peeling vinyl the other day for me. His thought is that I could glue vinyl over it.



I see that permateak makes solid panels. What do you think about putting a "cherry" panel over it? I've got an installer coming in on Friday to give me a quote on the floors, I'm going to ask him what he thinks.
 
Interesting.


In addition to needing new flooring on our boat the vinyl liner material on the hull sides, as discussed in other threads, is peeling and needs to be addressed. Another poster had a canvas guy glue a headliner carpet over it, and it seems to have worked well. I'm friends with one of the top yard guys over at Grand Banks and he took a look at my peeling vinyl the other day for me. His thought is that I could glue vinyl over it.



I see that permateak makes solid panels. What do you think about putting a "cherry" panel over it? I've got an installer coming in on Friday to give me a quote on the floors, I'm going to ask him what he thinks.
This is Andrew from North Country Boatworks (we did BACKINBLUE's Mainship Permateek project). We're located in Connecticut but the convenience of Permateek is that our network of authorized distributors are nationwide/worldwide. Same goes with most synthetic teak companies for that matter. It all comes down to a client's personal preference towards the product, pricing, and relationship with the fabricator/installer.

I'm trying to be sensitive to the strict no-solicitation rules on this forum but also trying to be helpful to the members, so I'll just say that there are Permateek installers throughout the country who can advise with your questions. Feel free to check out the Permateek website for a list of contacts who can help. Best of luck.
 
This is Andrew from North Country Boatworks (we did BACKINBLUE's Mainship Permateek project). We're located in Connecticut but the convenience of Permateek is that our network of authorized distributors are nationwide/worldwide. Same goes with most synthetic teak companies for that matter. It all comes down to a client's personal preference towards the product, pricing, and relationship with the fabricator/installer.

I'm trying to be sensitive to the strict no-solicitation rules on this forum but also trying to be helpful to the members, so I'll just say that there are Permateek installers throughout the country who can advise with your questions. Feel free to check out the Permateek website for a list of contacts who can help. Best of luck.


Thanks Andrew, I have an appointment set up with the local installer on Friday.


Can you confirm that Permateak makes solid panels as well as the "teak and holly" strips? Do you think a panel would flex enough to go on the inside of a hull?


Doug
 
We used Lonseal to replace the old carpet in our Tollycraft. So far we like it a lot. It handles foot traffic well and it is easy to clean.

VT
 

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We installed Lonseal in the salon and guest stateroom 7 years ago and it still looks like new even with heavy usage and a dog.
 
Looks just like yours.
 
following. our teak and holly saloon floor will need some attention in the near future.
 
I would have sent pics but don’t know how.
 
Nautikflor

You might check out Nautikflor. We installed it about three months ago and it is pricey but looks great.
 

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You might check out Nautikflor. We installed it about three months ago and it is pricey but looks great.


That looks great, Laredo, and they are based close to my boat. Is that their material on the stair kicks? Also, I see you used 1/4 rounds for a shoe molding, did you have any curved edges against the hull sides in your application? What did you do there?


Thanks,
Doug
 
We used Lonseal to replace the old carpet in our Tollycraft. So far we like it a lot. It handles foot traffic well and it is easy to clean.

VT


The Lonseal looks really nice, but our current floor (that we want to match as close as possible) has way more "variation" in it than Lonseal does. They are pretty far apart, looks wise. I'm running into the same issue with permateak and flexiteak.
 
The Lonseal looks really nice, but our current floor (that we want to match as close as possible) has way more "variation" in it than Lonseal does. They are pretty far apart, looks wise. I'm running into the same issue with permateak and flexiteak.

What do you mean by variation? Permateek has a model of flooring that varies in color shade from strip to strip if that's what you are talking about. Some prefer that.
 

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