Mainship 400 Generator Coolant

Mermaid · Nov 17, 2021

The bottle jack is a great idea. Every boat should have one. I bought one at Harbor Freight for $5 several years ago. I used it a lot to remove window glass, and sometimes frames, on my Hatteras before it finally blew out. Heck, it was only $5. I got my money’s worth over and over.

Dougcole said:
Hey Gary,

I worked with my mechanic to get my shield off. He used a bottle jack and carefully raised the cockpit deck enough to slide the top cover off. There is some flex there.

There is a vent hose that was going through the lid that he left in place. I will be back down at the boat after Thanksgiving, I can take pics of my Genset if it helps. Sorry to make you wait that long.

Doug

garmstro55 · Nov 18, 2021

Dougcole said:
Hey Gary,

I worked with my mechanic to get my shield off. He used a bottle jack and carefully raised the cockpit deck enough to slide the top cover off. There is some flex there.

There is a vent hose that was going through the lid that he left in place. I will be back down at the boat after Thanksgiving, I can take pics of my Genset if it helps. Sorry to make you wait that long.

Doug

Thanks a bunch Doug. I had contemplated the idea of jacking the deck a bit but was afraid of breaking something. I am heading to the boat on Sunday and I'll bring a jack. Do you recall where you placed the jack? I am also bringing down an oscillating cutting tool so I can cut away the rest of the frame closest to the bulkhead.

As for the vent hose through the lid...do you mean there's a hole in the lid with a hose coming out of it? I guess that would explain why I can slide he lid in any direction more than a few feet.

Dougcole · Nov 22, 2021

garmstro55 said:
Thanks a bunch Doug. I had contemplated the idea of jacking the deck a bit but was afraid of breaking something. I am heading to the boat on Sunday and I'll bring a jack. Do you recall where you placed the jack? I am also bringing down an oscillating cutting tool so I can cut away the rest of the frame closest to the bulkhead.

As for the vent hose through the lid...do you mean there's a hole in the lid with a hose coming out of it? I guess that would explain why I can slide he lid in any direction more than a few feet.

We put the jack just to starboard of the generator, close to the stb stringer and on top of some 2x8 blocks to lift it up and distribute the load.

I honestly don't recall exactly what the top of the enclosure looked like, but yes, I remember it had a vent hose through it. Don't take that as gospel though. We also left the port "panel," the part with the breaker and digital display, in place. It's hard to explain but easy to see. I will take some pics as soon as I get back to the boat.

Doug

garmstro55 · Nov 22, 2021

Dougcole said:
We put the jack just to starboard of the generator, close to the stb stringer and on top of some 2x8 blocks to lift it up and distribute the load.

I honestly don't recall exactly what the top of the enclosure looked like, but yes, I remember it had a vent hose through it. Don't take that as gospel though. We also left the port "panel," the part with the breaker and digital display, in place. It's hard to explain but easy to see. I will take some pics as soon as I get back to the boat.

Doug

Well, I got the lid off this morning by using a bottle jack like you said. I put a board down on the hull in front of the genny, about even with the left vertical pillar, and, with the jack and a short 2 by 4, I was able to get about 3/4 of an inch, which was all I needed. I probably spent 12-15 hours all together just to get the cover off, but I am really happy now with the access and now I can change the coolant.

Your tip made all the difference, Doug, thanks so much!

Dougcole · Nov 23, 2021

garmstro55 said:
Well, I got the lid off this morning by using a bottle jack like you said. I put a board down on the hull in front of the genny, about even with the left vertical pillar, and, with the jack and a short 2 by 4, I was able to get about 3/4 of an inch, which was all I needed. I probably spent 12-15 hours all together just to get the cover off, but I am really happy now with the access and now I can change the coolant.

Your tip made all the difference, Doug, thanks so much!

Hey Gary,

I'm super glad it worked out! I'd like to say the jack was my idea, but I learned it from Eric at Dockside Marine in Carrabelle. He is the best mechanic I have ever met.

I think you will love having the cover off, it makes taking care of the gen-set so much easier. Sorry for the unsolicited advice, but now that the cover is off, clean up the rust and do a paint touch up. There is likely some rust/corrosion that was hidden by the sound box. I believe that the sound box causes some corrosion because it traps moisture and hides potential issues.

Do you notice a big difference sound wise?

garmstro55 · Nov 23, 2021

Dougcole said:
Hey Gary,

I'm super glad it worked out! I'd like to say the jack was my idea, but I learned it from Eric at Dockside Marine in Carrabelle. He is the best mechanic I have ever met.

I think you will love having the cover off, it makes taking care of the gen-set so much easier. Sorry for the unsolicited advice, but now that the cover is off, clean up the rust and do a paint touch up. There is likely some rust/corrosion that was hidden by the sound box. I believe that the sound box causes some corrosion because it traps moisture and hides potential issues.

Do you notice a big difference sound wise?

I won't know if there's a sound difference until spring, right now she is in the water under a shed and winterized. I think most of the noise comes from the exhaust, so I don't expect a big change. I'll consider sound insulation on the roof of the lazarette if it gets too annoying. Thanks again for the tip, made my day when I got the SOB off.

Bay Retriever · Nov 24, 2021

garmstro55 said:
I won't know if there's a sound difference until spring, right now she is in the water under a shed and winterized. I think most of the noise comes from the exhaust, so I don't expect a big change. I'll consider sound insulation on the roof of the lazarette if it gets too annoying. Thanks again for the tip, made my day when I got the SOB off.

Hey Gary and Doug,

Still wondering if the generator will swivel in place. Would appreciate if anyone out there knows the location of the screws or bolts that hold the Generator to the shelf below.

Still haven’t taken the frame apart yet, but plan to do so over next few months. Unlike Gary, my boat will stay in the water.

PaulB. · Nov 24, 2021

Hi Gary. The enclosure removal may be in my future. Did you cut off the stern upper horizontal frame member at the electrical panel? Did you see any issues doing that? Thanks. Paul

garmstro55 · Nov 24, 2021

PaulB. said:
Hi Gary. The enclosure removal may be in my future. Did you cut off the stern upper horizontal frame member at the electrical panel? Did you see any issues doing that? Thanks. Paul

Hi Paul,

I recommend you proceed like so if you want the whole enclosure removed:

-Stock up on your favorite mind-numbing substance, booze, weed, whatever.
-Secure these tools: Socket set, wrench set (metric and SAE), huge screwdriver or prybar, hack saw blade with handle (not the frame handle, the other kind), bottle jack, 15" or so long 2x4, side cutters, vise grips, headlamp/small flashlight
-Take a hit
-Remove the battery and remove or move aside the strainer.
-Remove as many screws as you can that hold the pillars/frame together. That wont be nearly enough to get it apart, but it helps loosen things up.
-Look up at the lid from underneath. You'll see four 2 inch machine screws that hold the lid to the frame. The only way I could get them out was by grabbing the screw itself from underneath with vise grips. Once you get them loose a bit they will unscrew easily, but they are so long you may not be able to remove them from the lid. The ones you can't remove will be in your way for the rest of the operation unless you can cut them off.
-Take another hit
-Start removing what I call the frame. This is comprised of the corner pillars and the top header piece. You will probable have to break them apart as the screws that hold them together are blind to you. (The pillars and top frame are aluminum, the lid is steel.) I did remove this frame piece from where it connects to the member at the electrical panel, mainly by breaking it. I think it needs to be removed to get the lid out, but if you have a couple millimeters of extra clearance maybe you'll be lucky and can leave the frame intact. I think the lid is the issue, if you can get that off without tearing the whole enclosure apart that might be the way to go.
-If you can get the frame off in less that a couple hours you are doing better than me. I spent half the time staring at the damn thing wondering what to do next.
-I also unbolted the lower side panel on the right side and tossed it. It screws into threaded inserts in the starboard base which is underneath the genny and on top of the shelf.
-I had about 1/4 inch of clearance above the lid so I couldn't raise the lid enough to clear some hoses and the lifting brackets. You might be able to get the lid off now if you jack the deck up. I put a 1x6 on the hull and used a 2x4 about 15 inches long and was able to jack up the deck enough to get the lid off. I didn't figure this out until I spent a couple hours to remove the lifting lugs and the top, horizontal frame member closest to the bulkhead.
I also spent a good deal of time trying to rip out the insulation in the lid so as to clear the hoses on top of the engine, but you might not need to do that. That rear top frame was a bear to get off. I ended up using brute force and broke the ears that was holding it on.
-Take a big hit

I did some things that maybe I didn't have to do, not knowing about the whole jacking idea and not knowing how the enclosure was put together. If it had to do it over, I would try this first:
-Remove the 3 panels, and the 4 screws holding down the lid to the frame.
-Apply the jack and see if I can get the lid off. If you can, you probably don't need to remove the other frame components.

I still wanted the frame off as well to give better access to everything, but I was a major effort and I probably would have left it alone as long as I got the lid off. Now that I say that, I don't think the lid would have come off with the front, top frame in place though; not enough clearance.

PaulB. · Nov 24, 2021

Thanks for the detail Gary. Paul

Dougcole · Dec 8, 2021

Here, finally, are the promised pics of my generator without the enclosure. Let me know if anyone has any specific questions.

Hope this helps.

Doug

Bay Retriever · Dec 8, 2021

Thanks Doug.
It gives the rest of us something to shoot for. After the 1st of the year, I’ll take a crack at removing the rest of the outer quiet box during one of our winter warm spells.

garmstro55 · Dec 8, 2021

Yep, looks just like mine now. Need to change the coolant later towards the spring and I will try to use this new invention I created.

I made this contraption because I struggled with winterizing the air conditioning. I like to run the pink anti-freeze through it and I always made a mess spilling it everywhere in the bilge as I tried to pour it into the top of the strainer. It always took several tries because if I didn't pour fast enough the dang thing would lose prime and I had to stop an re-prime every time.

After another frustrating attempt this year I decided not to mess around anymore and used an old bucket and a few plumbing parts. I bought the strainer cap in the correct size but the Marine Hardware strainer that Mainship used must have a different kind of thread so I had to file it down a bit so I could get most of it into the opening and catch the last few threads on it.

I worked like a champ on the first attempt, and now I can do the job solo as I don't need an assistant to turn on the AC pump as I am pouring.

I think it will be just the ticket to re-fill the generator coolant as well.

Cartouche · Dec 9, 2021

Quick tip on winterizing the AC/Heat pump Units - When the boat is on the hard close the AC through Hull take the bottom bolt out of the strainer open the strainer and let the water drain back and out the bottom of the strainer re insert the strainer drain bolt go to the Hull Drain for the forward AC Unit (In the Bow up High) and with a Jug pump pump pink in the outlet after about half gallon you will see the pink in the strainer and traces of pink in the aft AC hull Drain. In the spring with the through hull closed top up the system by pouring water or antifreeze down the hull Bow drain and when the strainer is full make sure Cover is tight and through hull is closed when in the water open through hull and fire up the Heat pump, the system is fully charged and will work without having to bleed the system.

garmstro55 · Dec 9, 2021

Cartouche said:
Quick tip on winterizing the AC/Heat pump Units - When the boat is on the hard close the AC through Hull take the bottom bolt out of the strainer open the strainer and let the water drain back and out the bottom of the strainer re insert the strainer drain bolt go to the Hull Drain for the forward AC Unit (In the Bow up High) and with a Jug pump pump pink in the outlet after about half gallon you will see the pink in the strainer and traces of pink in the aft AC hull Drain. In the spring with the through hull closed top up the system by pouring water or antifreeze down the hull Bow drain and when the strainer is full make sure Cover is tight and through hull is closed when in the water open through hull and fire up the Heat pump, the system is fully charged and will work without having to bleed the system.

Never thought of that idea, interesting. I'm wintering in the water this year so this won't work for me but might be worth a try for those on the hard.

Cartouche · Dec 9, 2021

garmstro55 said:
Never thought of that idea, interesting. I'm wintering in the water this year so this won't work for me but might be worth a try for those on the hard.

It works Great but to be totally honest the system is gravity and when you take out the strainer plug it self drains I put the pink in just in case, and it also works a charm for setting up in the spring so you don't have to prime the system. If you are in a dingy you could reach the Bow AC Drain

garmstro55 · Dec 11, 2021

Dougcole said:
Here, finally, are the promised pics of my generator without the enclosure. Let me know if anyone has any specific questions.

Hope this helps.

Doug

Hey Doug, is there any way you can identify the coolant drain plugs in the photo of the generator?

Dougcole · Dec 11, 2021

garmstro55 said:
Hey Doug, is there any way you can identify the coolant drain plugs in the photo of the generator?

I don’t know how to do the arrows on the pic deal. If someone can advise me I will do it.

There are at least two. Mine had little stickers on them that say “drain.” One of them is on the heat exchanger. It is the lowest but is also so low that you can’t get any sort of cup or bottle under it to catch the outflow. It may be possible to attach some sort of rubber tubing to it. I end up making a mess at every coolant change. I suck it up with a shop vac and oil diapers.

There is another higher drain on the block, also labeled, that is easier to reach, but it doesn’t get all the coolant out.I will be back down around the 20th and will find it for you then if that is not too late.

garmstro55 · Dec 12, 2021

Dougcole said:
I don’t know how to do the arrows on the pic deal. If someone can advise me I will do it.

There are at least two. Mine had little stickers on them that say “drain.” One of them is on the heat exchanger. It is the lowest but is also so low that you can’t get any sort of cup or bottle under it to catch the outflow. It may be possible to attach some sort of rubber tubing to it. I end up making a mess at every coolant change. I suck it up with a shop vac and oil diapers.

There is another higher drain on the block, also labeled, that is easier to reach, but it doesn’t get all the coolant out.I will be back down around the 20th and will find it for you then if that is not too late.

Doug, I will look for the label on the block for the drain. I do see the drain on the exchanger. I'll be heading there next Wednesday or so, and I won't actually be changing the coolant until later in the spring, so there is no rush and I might not even need your help if mine has the same labels.

But in case you need to, here is an easy way to highlight or add freehand lines to a photo. Use the "Snipping" tool in Windows. First, have the photo to highlight on the screen, then search for "Snipping" in the lower left search bar and open the app. Looks like photo #1.

Next, select "New" (Photo #2). You can now use the mouse to create a rectangle that will be "Snipped" onto the windows clipboard. At this point you can use the pencil tool at the top, or the highlighter, on the photo. (Photos 3 and 4) Then go to "File" and "Save As" to capture the highlighted photo.

Cartouche · Dec 13, 2021

Dougcole said:
I don’t know how to do the arrows on the pic deal. If someone can advise me I will do it.

There are at least two. Mine had little stickers on them that say “drain.” One of them is on the heat exchanger. It is the lowest but is also so low that you can’t get any sort of cup or bottle under it to catch the outflow. It may be possible to attach some sort of rubber tubing to it. I end up making a mess at every coolant change. I suck it up with a shop vac and oil diapers.

There is another higher drain on the block, also labeled, that is easier to reach, but it doesn’t get all the coolant out.I will be back down around the 20th and will find it for you then if that is not too late.

The bottom drain should be Seawater not coolant

Dougcole · Dec 13, 2021

Cartouche said:
The bottom drain should be Seawater not coolant

The drain on the heat exchanger on my generator is coolant. You could probably drain the entire system from there, but I try to take as much out as I can from the upper drain because it makes less of a mess.

To drain the seawater out of the HE I just crack the end cap.

Dougcole · Dec 19, 2021

I am down on the boat this weekend and took a look at my gen-set to refresh my memory. There are two coolant drains, one on the bottom of the HE and the other on the block behind the coolant overflow tank. If you lift the overflow tanks off of its bracket, you will see the drain there, it's a petcock style. You can slip a piece of rubber tubing onto the block drain to make it less messy.

Thanks for the pic editing info Gary. Let me know if you need it and I will dig up the pics and draw some arrows!

PaulB. · Sep 23, 2023

garmstro55 said:
Hi Paul,

I recommend you proceed like so if you want the whole enclosure removed:

-Stock up on your favorite mind-numbing substance, booze, weed, whatever.
-Secure these tools: Socket set, wrench set (metric and SAE), huge screwdriver or prybar, hack saw blade with handle (not the frame handle, the other kind), bottle jack, 15" or so long 2x4, side cutters, vise grips, headlamp/small flashlight
-Take a hit
-Remove the battery and remove or move aside the strainer.
-Remove as many screws as you can that hold the pillars/frame together. That wont be nearly enough to get it apart, but it helps loosen things up.
-Look up at the lid from underneath. You'll see four 2 inch machine screws that hold the lid to the frame. The only way I could get them out was by grabbing the screw itself from underneath with vise grips. Once you get them loose a bit they will unscrew easily, but they are so long you may not be able to remove them from the lid. The ones you can't remove will be in your way for the rest of the operation unless you can cut them off.
-Take another hit
-Start removing what I call the frame. This is comprised of the corner pillars and the top header piece. You will probable have to break them apart as the screws that hold them together are blind to you. (The pillars and top frame are aluminum, the lid is steel.) I did remove this frame piece from where it connects to the member at the electrical panel, mainly by breaking it. I think it needs to be removed to get the lid out, but if you have a couple millimeters of extra clearance maybe you'll be lucky and can leave the frame intact. I think the lid is the issue, if you can get that off without tearing the whole enclosure apart that might be the way to go.
-If you can get the frame off in less that a couple hours you are doing better than me. I spent half the time staring at the damn thing wondering what to do next.
-I also unbolted the lower side panel on the right side and tossed it. It screws into threaded inserts in the starboard base which is underneath the genny and on top of the shelf.
-I had about 1/4 inch of clearance above the lid so I couldn't raise the lid enough to clear some hoses and the lifting brackets. You might be able to get the lid off now if you jack the deck up. I put a 1x6 on the hull and used a 2x4 about 15 inches long and was able to jack up the deck enough to get the lid off. I didn't figure this out until I spent a couple hours to remove the lifting lugs and the top, horizontal frame member closest to the bulkhead.
I also spent a good deal of time trying to rip out the insulation in the lid so as to clear the hoses on top of the engine, but you might not need to do that. That rear top frame was a bear to get off. I ended up using brute force and broke the ears that was holding it on.
-Take a big hit

I did some things that maybe I didn't have to do, not knowing about the whole jacking idea and not knowing how the enclosure was put together. If it had to do it over, I would try this first:
-Remove the 3 panels, and the 4 screws holding down the lid to the frame.
-Apply the jack and see if I can get the lid off. If you can, you probably don't need to remove the other frame components.

I still wanted the frame off as well to give better access to everything, but I was a major effort and I probably would have left it alone as long as I got the lid off. Now that I say that, I don't think the lid would have come off with the front, top frame in place though; not enough clearance.

OK, I know when I'm beat and give up. I have spent two days and have the starboard pillars and lower frame out but unlike others my reverse access screws are too short to grab from below and back off to separate the upper frame from the horizontal rails. I was able to separate the front starboard corner connector by cutting out the screw with a modified spot weld cutter but cannot see any way of cutting out the other corners. Jacking has got me no where close with the front horizontal in place and my rotator cuff is angry at my efforts to break things apart.
Q1. Can anyone with a deck plate give me measurements astern off the door and off the centre line from the door open or starboard hinge? The deck plate is looking like a good option now that I have enough off to get good access and can still re-assemble.
Q2. Is there a screw at the rear port corner holding the upper panel in place? I cannot conceive how I would get at it to be able to pull the panel forward. Any suggestions?
Q3. Gary... did the oscillating tool help for cutting things out?

P.S. Saw 12+ 400's on the Trent / North Channel this summer. It was great to see and meet so many. Safe travels all. Paul

garmstro55 · Sep 24, 2023

PaulB. said:
OK, I know when I'm beat and give up. I have spent two days and have the starboard pillars and lower frame out but unlike others my reverse access screws are too short to grab from below and back off to separate the upper frame from the horizontal rails. I was able to separate the front starboard corner connector by cutting out the screw with a modified spot weld cutter but cannot see any way of cutting out the other corners. Jacking has got me no where close with the front horizontal in place and my rotator cuff is angry at my efforts to break things apart.
Q1. Can anyone with a deck plate give me measurements astern off the door and off the centre line from the door open or starboard hinge? The deck plate is looking like a good option now that I have enough off to get good access and can still re-assemble.
Q2. Is there a screw at the rear port corner holding the upper panel in place? I cannot conceive how I would get at it to be able to pull the panel forward. Any suggestions?
Q3. Gary... did the oscillating tool help for cutting things out?

P.S. Saw 12+ 400's on the Trent / North Channel this summer. It was great to see and meet so many. Safe travels all. Paul

The oscillatiing tool didn't work too well. Either the blade was dull or the metal I was cutting was too tough. A cutting blade on a grinder would probably work if you had the space to get it where it needs to cut. I would have bought a new high strength cutter for the oscilator if I knew then what i know now.

Remember you'll be cutting through the deck and the lid of the sound box if you go that route. Also, if you do end up cutting the hole, look at the requirement for the size of the hole for the access port, it's kind of an odd size. I couldn't find a hole saw that size in the usual stores but a friend happened to have one that I borrowed. I started measuring for the hole when I decided to give the sound box one last try and I am glad I didn't make the hole in the cockpit right outside the door. I just got angry and started using brute force.

PaulB. · Sep 26, 2023

TRIGGER WARNING!
Readers of MS 400 coolant / generator posts are advised that doing so may cause stressful bewilderment or guilt feelings from taking pleasure at the misfortune of others (Schadenfreude syndrome). Apoplexy is possible flowing from excessive anger or humour. Individuals currently or previously suffering from GAD (generator anxiety syndrome) or GDDS (G-d d-mn designer syndrome) may be at increased risk for deleterious effects. Posts may reflect anxiety or frustration.
1) Thanks Gary for your usual thorough and helpful response. Please take no offence that I did not follow it. Being a zero alcohol driver I did not consume libations that would surmount the obstacles and have taken the easy way out. I had hoped to remove the sound shield in a fashion that would allow me to re-construct it but that turned out to be beyond me.
2) Having the end pillars and lower support off confirms the tremendous advantage of having the sound shield off in terms of better access which I took advantage of to inspect and clean parts of the boat that were previously beyond me . Also to do major work on heat exchanger cleaning, anodes and impellers. As well I confirm that noise levels with the shield (mostly) off are insignificantly different with the shield all on.
3) My last post has an undertone of frustration which you were kind to ignore. In addition to failing my mission I had to deal with two good Maglights destroyed by leaking Duracells.
4) With better lighting on day three I was able to locate the hard to find and measure coolant cap. It centres at 15 1/2 inches back from the door bulkhead and 31 inches to port of the stair unit. See pictures attached. The cap is off center to avoid the hole saw drilling on to it. I pushed in some wood pieces to provide protection to the adjoining hoses when drilling. I noted that the lower bulkhead in the lazarette was 1 1/2 inches off the upper door bulkhead when measuring for my test pilot hole.
5) Like you I was only able to access a 6" hole saw for the 6 1/2 inch hole needed but my small router easily allowed me to expand it.
6) To change the coolant I used a plastic garbage bag pulled up from under the heat exchanger. Mine had "ears" that allowed me to tie up the forward end around the top of the heat exchanger and when I pulled the plug (cap removed) I held up the stern end collecting all of the waste antifreeze in the bag that drooped back onto the lower lazarette floor. Zero mess.
Thanks again. I will admire (not!) and trip over my beautiful deck access port for years.
Paul

PaulB. · Sep 26, 2023

Photo's below. I used a large garbage bag.

garmstro55 · Sep 27, 2023

PaulB. said:
TRIGGER WARNING!
Readers of MS 400 coolant / generator posts are advised that doing so may cause stressful bewilderment or guilt feelings from taking pleasure at the misfortune of others (Schadenfreude syndrome). Apoplexy is possible flowing from excessive anger or humour. Individuals currently or previously suffering from GAD (generator anxiety syndrome) or GDDS (G-d d-mn designer syndrome) may be at increased risk for deleterious effects. Posts may reflect anxiety or frustration.
1) Thanks Gary for your usual thorough and helpful response. Please take no offence that I did not follow it. Being a zero alcohol driver I did not consume libations that would surmount the obstacles and have taken the easy way out. I had hoped to remove the sound shield in a fashion that would allow me to re-construct it but that turned out to be beyond me.
2) Having the end pillars and lower support off confirms the tremendous advantage of having the sound shield off in terms of better access which I took advantage of to inspect and clean parts of the boat that were previously beyond me . Also to do major work on heat exchanger cleaning, anodes and impellers. As well I confirm that noise levels with the shield (mostly) off are insignificantly different with the shield all on.
3) My last post has an undertone of frustration which you were kind to ignore. In addition to failing my mission I had to deal with two good Maglights destroyed by leaking Duracells.
4) With better lighting on day three I was able to locate the hard to find and measure coolant cap. It centres at 15 1/2 inches back from the door bulkhead and 31 inches to port of the stair unit. See pictures attached. The cap is off center to avoid the hole saw drilling on to it. I pushed in some wood pieces to provide protection to the adjoining hoses when drilling. I noted that the lower bulkhead in the lazarette was 1 1/2 inches off the upper door bulkhead when measuring for my test pilot hole.
5) Like you I was only able to access a 6" hole saw for the 6 1/2 inch hole needed but my small router easily allowed me to expand it.
6) To change the coolant I used a plastic garbage bag pulled up from under the heat exchanger. Mine had "ears" that allowed me to tie up the forward end around the top of the heat exchanger and when I pulled the plug (cap removed) I held up the stern end collecting all of the waste antifreeze in the bag that drooped back onto the lower lazarette floor. Zero mess.
Thanks again. I will admire (not!) and trip over my beautiful deck access port for years.
Paul

Paul, I am shocked and dismayed that you took the easy way out! Having known you for as long as I have I never expected you to give up so easily. :angel:

But, I still have the utmost respect for you for 1) owning a 400 and 2) for actually, against all odds, deciding to change the generator coolant!

It looks like you did a great job with the access port and now you will sleep better knowing that the genny has some nice, fresh coolant running through it's veins.

Fair winds and following seas,

Gary

Cold Duck · Sep 27, 2023

Gawd, after reading this am I ever so glad mine came without a genset. I just use a small Honda gen that if it dies, I just have to throw it overboard and buy another LOL! Hate engineering with no maintenance thoughts. Luckily I was able to repair a fuel tank. Only way to get out of boat is cut out, no idea how to put a new one in. I feel for you guys.

davidla · Sep 28, 2023

I have just completed the engine coolant replacement and after struggling with the refill I removed the front cover, stbd side cover, stbd side legs and stbd lower cover. After that I undid the roof clips at the front andwas able to raise the remaining body of the shroud including the roof just enough to snake a hose into the top tank. I found if you feed the hose under the slightly raised roof but over the front top support panel it will have the fall it needs. To get the cap off, access it from behind the Genny on the stbd side. You can snake a hand up there and twist it off. Get someone to feed the hose in and hold it in the top tank whilst a helper pours coolant in the other end. It is a two person job.

You don't need to take off the lowerbottom cover unless you need good access to the heat exchanger, but you were likely already messing with that in the first place.

sailorskip · Sep 28, 2023

I wouldn't trust the consistency of Mainship's construction to utilize the measurements from another boat on something like this.

What I did was to stand in the lazarette, reach in where the fill is, point your index finger up to the underside of the deck, and touch your finger with the index finger from the other arm. That's your hole location. Worked great.

Mainship 400 Generator Coolant

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