Contract on 1988 CPMY 48

Surveys, haul and sea trial this Monday. Nervous, anxious and a myriad of emotions. Boat is exceptionally clean. My hope is everything goes smoothly.

I'm new to trawler forum and power boats. Sailed for 50 years. Currently own a 1990 Catalina 34, which will be sold by mid Aug. Survey is Aug 6. Had it for 14 years.

In reviewing other threads here, I was able to ingest a ton of information, so I really appreciate the site and contributors. If anyone has any advice or suggestions, I'm all ears.

As I am new, is there anything in addition to what I've already stated, that I should post?

Cheers

We have an '87, feel free to reach out if you have questions.
Peter

Welcome aboard.

Thanks to both of you.

Seabag, I'm inexperienced around power. I'm sure there will be a learning curve on handling.

I've read these boats handle well. Honestly, I'm not even sure what this entails. Is this something easily elaborated?

For example, my Catalina 34 tends to round up in winds over 15 knots. It has prop walk to port. Because the Universal engine calls for an 1100 rpm idle, you will move a little quicker in and out of slips.

As for survey, anything specific I should be on lookout for that may affect these boats as they age? It appears very clean, engine hours close to 1300 and onan 12.5kw at 189 hours. Old Coronado water maker, which I plan on replacing which the broker insists works. Most electronics are newer with exception of AP.

I am bringing an amprobe and pyrometer to double check surveyor testing. I believe I have downloaded correct service manual for CAT 3208's.

Thanks for anything you can offer.

Dark Side
Regarding handling in my experience every boat handles a bit differently. My Californian is the third 50'+ boat I've owned and I have found it to be responsive. After you've driven it a while you'll come to understand how it reacts in different settings. Mine has lots of canvas and is more affected by wind. But I also have bow and stern thrusters that can help correct wind drift in tight spots.

At survey pay attention to the electrical system. Mine had been altered several times in the past and it was a nightmare to sort out.

I have always had a separate mechanical survey (engines, genset) that included oil samples. Those disclosed lurking problems and allowed me to avoid several costly repairs - both times I walked away.

Your Cat manual should help dial you in, at my sea trial the engines wouldn't reach recommended RPM's at WOT; turns out the boat had been underpriced to save fuel.

Hope this is helpful, best of luck and stay in touch.

Peter

Thanks!

Yes, both surveys plus fluid samples tomorrow. Electrical is always an adventure on older boats. The original owner of my current boat provided a complete schematic which made life so much easier. And it was accurate!

Another question. I'm partial to dropping the hook. I've read the chain drop tube and locker can present some challenges. Have you experienced similar? I have read about various solutions.

Thanks again,
Vince

I would test the electrical system and make sure it will work with the newer wiring on docks that have GFIs on the docks. Many older boats are wired incorrectly and will trip the GFIs. Cheaper to have the seller correct the problem than you having to do it, or give a discount on the price.

Hadn't thought of that, thank you!

Yes, anchor chain storage can be "problematical". The chain drops into an upper chamber and theoretically moves lower and further aft. After about 100' that doesn't hold true for us. My wife is on the foredeck and activates the windlass. I open the floor hatch in the forward stateroom and manually pull the chain into the lower storage area. If we only deploy 100' or so no worries but for more than that it tends to pile in the upper chamber and then stops feeding through the windlass. A previous owner tried to bypass the upper chamber with a 4" PVC pipe, feeding directly to the lower area but the angle wasn't steep enough for a gravity feed.

This is most helpful, thank you!

I love your flybridge hardtop. The one I'm looking at has full canvas enclosure. Easier to mount solar, if so inclined.

Tomorrow will be interesting. And fun I hope.

Hard top has 4 135 watt solar panels, enough to keep us topped off when the sun shines. Good luck with the surveys, keep us posted.

Just making me jealous now ��

What kind of panels and which controller? What kind of combiner for house and start batteries? Do you have a separate start battery for genset?

Sorry to keep bothering you but this has been very educational.

Comodave said:

I would test the electrical system and make sure it will work with the newer wiring on docks that have GFIs on the docks. Many older boats are wired incorrectly and will trip the GFIs. Cheaper to have the seller correct the problem than you having to do it, or give a discount on the price.

Click to expand...

Hooked up 50 amp cable. Took down whole dock. I think the marine air is the issue as on unit kept tripping breaker. High current draw.

There was another electrical issue so they are having a marine electrician review.

Thanks for the heads up. I enjoyed the surveyor I worked with. We were on boat for 11 hours yesterday.

I'll update on rest of survey when I get a moment.

Following... got an update?

I had responded to comodave regarding the electrical. For some reason I thought it would have notified. Still new to trawler forum. Apologies.

The new inverter needs repair and I believe it is because of installed location with no ventilation. The compressor on one of the marine air units had a slow short. Drew high current then kicked breaker. They are replacing that. I have advised them a suitable location for inverter and they were open to it.

Hull and decks in great shape. Cats run well as does genset. Front windows appear to have been removed and revealed properly. The surveyor and I picked up on it when investigating a prior leak. Nice job on repair too.

There are a couple of other items I am prepared to take on providing a suitable allowance is obtained and the broker called yesterday to say owner responded favorably to this discussion. So hopefully we can get through most of this for mid week. If all goes well, then I'm hoping for possession by end of month.

I need to find a dinghy and motor prior. The existing is 1992 Achilles HB-110 in poor/fair condition. We rely on this as we like to anchor a lot. I'll have work to do but it's all stuff I enjoy working on.

I asked you about your solar above as this is in my wants list. Any advice is welcome. The flybridge is canvas and I think a hardtop is not an expense I wish to incur just yet. I should be able to mount above Bimini with proper stainless stubby extension. Still pondering best path.

It's a comfy boat for our purposes so I'm hoping all goes well.

Seabag said:

Following... got an update?

Click to expand...

Peter,

Left an update or 2, not sure I'm doing this in a way you get notified.

Do you have a propane locker? If so, where?

Thanks,
V

Our propane locker is on the flybridge. The PO owned a metal fabrication company and the boat has all kinds of custom features including a powder coated propane locker that could double as a bank vault. He installed the solar panels but I haven't found any manufacturer's markings (probably on the underside). I took pictures of the controller and remote panel, now I have to figure out how to post them (my previous attempts have been abject failures). Stay tuned, I'll try again.

Living aboard!

Seabag said:

Yes, anchor chain storage can be "problematical". The chain drops into an upper chamber and theoretically moves lower and further aft. After about 100' that doesn't hold true for us. My wife is on the foredeck and activates the windlass. I open the floor hatch in the forward stateroom and manually pull the chain into the lower storage area. If we only deploy 100' or so no worries but for more than that it tends to pile in the upper chamber and then stops feeding through the windlass. A previous owner tried to bypass the upper chamber with a 4" PVC pipe, feeding directly to the lower area but the angle wasn't steep enough for a gravity feed.

Click to expand...

Same situation for me....wife on the bow running the windlass. I'm at the chain locker below her pulling the chain so it doesn't volcano. In my case, I probably created the problem by increasing the 3/8 chain to 300'. It's a workable situation but I wish I had more room.

Ken E. said:

Same situation for me....wife on the bow running the windlass. I'm at the chain locker below her pulling the chain so it doesn't volcano. In my case, I probably created the problem by increasing the 3/8 chain to 300'. It's a workable situation but I wish I had more room.

Click to expand...

Same with me.. The one design flaw on our boat. Chain locker can only be accessed by two doors at the head of the guest berth. So if you are watching me pulling anchor it takes me about 15 minutes. I can only pull 40ft of chain at a time. Them I have to make my way from the bow, thru the sundeck, then salon, then galley, then fwd Bert. Knock the pile to one side, then back up I go for another 40ft. Takes a while if you are anchored at 250-300ft.

Seabag said:

Yes, anchor chain storage can be "problematical". The chain drops into an upper chamber and theoretically moves lower and further aft. After about 100' that doesn't hold true for us. My wife is on the foredeck and activates the windlass. I open the floor hatch in the forward stateroom and manually pull the chain into the lower storage area. If we only deploy 100' or so no worries but for more than that it tends to pile in the upper chamber and then stops feeding through the windlass. A previous owner tried to bypass the upper chamber with a 4" PVC pipe, feeding directly to the lower area but the angle wasn't steep enough for a gravity feed.

Click to expand...

I wonder if stainless chain would be a very expensive solution to that as it piles more fluidly. Of course it doesn’t make financial sense. Just curious.