Dumb bilge pump question

Really dumb...because that's how I roll.

We have two 1600 GPH bilge pumps, one approximately amidships near the engine (but beneath) and another under (of course) the sleeping berth. They're set to "auto" via separate switches at the helm (the master is always on, and each pump can be set to on/off/auto, the default being Auto).

As part of routine safety checks, we monthly manipulate the float valve to insure the pump beneath the engine room is working. The other one's a pain so I just turn it to "on" and listen. If there's water in the bilge of course we'll observe it being expelled, but there usually isn't much. These pumps were installed new about 5 years ago and haven't had much use.

So last week the pump in the engine room didn't respond to the float switch or the on/off switch at the helm. We spent a @$@#$@$ of time trying to trace the wiring to see if there's degradation, or a disconnect at the battery (having NO idea which battery it's wired to). We couldn't even find a fuse.

I note that the indicator light at the helm for that pump does not go on, where as the master and the forward pump are lit. I removed the panel behind them helm to marvel at the (unlabelled) spaghetti of wires, but there is nothing that's not connected, nothing that appears corroded, etc.

I have a replacement pump but given the PITA it will be for us to take things apart and install, I wanted to see if there is something else we should look at first? This being a boat and all, I don't want to assume this is as simple as a dead pump. I have a feeling it's likely something electrical but not sure where to look or even who to call.

There should be a fuse somewhere, or a breaker. Get a good flashlight, mirror, and tyvek suit to go exploring. When the avg “marina guy” is told to go replace a bilge pump, god only knows what you’ll get. My boat had a pump installed that bypassed the bilge pump control panel and hooked it straight to the battery with no fuses at all.

Agree with Archie
Worth the time & effort to trace the wiring and figure it out.
Then correct as necessary.
It is one of your CRITICAL systems... get it right.

Greetings,
Yup. Agree with above but I will add...Pour yourself a stiff drink AFTER you've traced, found, labeled (both ends) and repaired (if necessary). Heck you might as well check and clean up all associated connections, while you're at it.

Some brands require no tools to replace the pump and switch, the pump unsnaps from the strainer base and the the switch does as well. Should be easier to test once you can bring it up to a reasonable place to work on it.
Of course this only works on some brands and then only if replacement is same/same

Apart from wiring/switching issues, sounds like you have a "flipper" actuating switch. If replacing, a Johnson Ultra(or is it just "Ultra"), no external moving parts to stick,senses water presence through its casing.

A note of warning...aboard Seaweed I have two Johnson2k pumps plus the primary (lowest point in bilge) 800gph SeaSense pump. I too checked each pump. My mistake was lifting the float switches to ensure the pump turned on. I did NOT VERIFY that said pumps would actually pump water.

Guess what? One didn't...

As a side note the Johnson 2k pumps have a five year warranty. Mine failed at year six.

Now, quartery I turn off my pumps and flood the bilges with enough water that my highest pump will automatically come on. I test all three for "does the pump turn on/make noise?" the first of every month. My 800gph pump is cleared of hair monthly. The other two are dry except for their Seasonal testing.

If you have an oily bilge before flooding same be sure you have bilge diapers to absorb the oil/fuel down there. Good luck.

One more thing you probably already know: be sure your replacement pump has enough "lift" to get the water up and out of your bilge. I inherited a 1000gph pump that couldn't get the water out of the depths of a sailboat bilge. It works great, just not powerful enough to push water up 4'.

I have to ask. Have you taken a multimeter to anything. I myself like to start at the pump and look for the electrons. If they are at the pump then I know it’s the pump. If they are not at the pump then I look for them at the switch.

I heard that the indicator light does not come on. A fuse was mentioned. I would check the switch looking for power, then for a blown fuse, the source for + power

Now I would invite an explanation why having a fuse or breaker on a bilge pump is a good idea. If needed that bilge pump will drain the batteries in any event, so if needed and it trips a fuse/breaker you are sunk anyway.

Similar to fire pumps in commercial high rise buildings. the electric pumps have no fusing, breakers or other overcurrent protection. If the building is on fire the pumps will "run to fail" in attempting to supply water to sprinklers.

Fuses or breakers are not meant to prevent draining the battery, but to protects the pump and the wiring from overheating and/or catching fire in the event of a short. Also, a tripped breaker would alert you to a problem you wouldn't know about until you either tested the pump or needed it to come on automatically.

Some folks consider the bilge pump to be critical, so they are NOT wired thru the usual rotary battery switch

Check the wiring from the battery to the switch , there is probably a fuse in the line.

The only way to power down this "always hot bus" is to disconnect the battery.

FF said:

Some folks consider the bilge pump to be critical, so they are NOT wired thru the usual rotary battery switch

Check the wiring from the battery to the switch , there is probably a fuse in the line.

The only way to power down this "always hot bus" is to disconnect the battery.

Click to expand...

Correct that the rotary battery switch is by-passed, but there should still be a breaker or fuse, so disconnecting the battery should not be necessary. On my boat, the bilge pumps run thru "always-on" breakers on the breaker panel, but they can be turned off or defeated, but it takes a tool to do it. (by tool I mean a very fine screw driver or paper clip to trip it)

To assist in tracing the wiring, buy or borrow a 'fox and hound'. They are not that expensive.
Come to think of it, multimeters etc are no longer as expensive as they were 50 years ago.
Thanks to Heathkit, I built my first really good multimeter.
Has anyone suggested checking the switch first?