Clear Waste hose?

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ROBERTH

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Jul 19, 2021
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I have a 1-1/2" waste hose from my tank to the macerator. There is a 3 way diverter for pumpout or macerating. I have an occasional issue where the 3 way diverter valve does not seem to seal well, allowing it to break the vacuum and therefore the macerator can not pull out the waste.
Not sure if I need to replace the diverter as I can turn it a couple of times and then get the vaccum it seems, but it is a pain to do this.

One option is to run a direct hose and bypass the diverter valve entirely as I never use the pumpout feature in my case.

I would like to have a clear view of what is coming in the hose so I can see if it is pulling or not.

I can't seem to find anything other than the clear reinforced PVC hose from Lowes that hardens within a year it seems. Is there something better out there?

It would need to connect to the 1-1/2" male to male hose barbs. Maybe something I can insert inline?
 
Thanks Mike, I had found that earlier today, but cant' figure out how my 1-1/2 Hose will fit over this device and clamp down?
 
Reading the reviews on the sight glass, a couple had problems with it sealing. Don’t want the stuff leaking out of the sight glass in this application. Seems like a lot of people are using it for brewing beer, beer leaking out not a huge problem, poop leaking out huge problem. I would use Raritan SaniFlex hoses and replace the valve giving you trouble and that should be that.
 
If you only want to see if it's pulling out of the tank, can't you just look overboard at the through hull?
 
ROBERTH said:
I have a 1-1/2" waste hose from my tank to the macerator. There is a 3 way diverter for pumpout or macerating. I have an occasional issue where the 3 way diverter valve does not seem to seal well, allowing it to break the vacuum and therefore the macerator can not pull out the waste.

Not sure if I need to replace the diverter as I can turn it a couple of times and then get the vaccum it seems, but it is a pain to do this.



One option is to run a direct hose and bypass the diverter valve entirely as I never use the pumpout feature in my case.



I would like to have a clear view of what is coming in the hose so I can see if it is pulling or not.



I can't seem to find anything other than the clear reinforced PVC hose from Lowes that hardens within a year it seems. Is there something better out there?



It would need to connect to the 1-1/2" male to male hose barbs. Maybe something I can insert inline?
Click to expand...
Ditch the diverted valve. Make your own from a sweep tee leading to PVC 1.5 inch ball valves. Those diverter valves have internals that are much smaller in diameter than 1.5 inches.
 
IIRC DDW has posted some clear "hose" (more like tubing) that he used in the past to make a custom bend (by heating it slightly). I think it was from McMaster Carr and was 1-1/2". Maybe PM him if he doesn't see this thread.
 
Clear hose is rated to carry water...it's not rated for sewage or below-waterline connections. If a sight glass is your objective, use a foot of clear hard pvc instead. Available from Home Depot.


--Peggie
 
Thanks Mike, the understanding how that works is clear now. I was thinking that the hose went over the fitting and that skinny clamp was supposed to clamp it which to me was really scary!

I like the PVC sweep fitting and ball valves. Have to explore this. I have very limited space though, but pretty sure it could work.

I could just get a new diverter valve, but if it is a restriction, then maybe not a good idea.....

I did find some clear polycarbonate on Amazon that claims is unbreakable and is the right diameter for the hose, but now thinking maybe if I can just fix the issue of losing the vacuum, the pump will work correctly and I don't need to look at it in a clear hose. I can hear the pump and can tell when it picks up something.

I am pondering....thanks for the feedback and ideas! :)
 
I'd start by replacing the Y valve. A successful coast guard inspection will require the valve and a lockable hull valve too.
IF you are in the Great Lakes, I am told you must disconnect the sanitary system from the hull valve.
 
Last edited:
OldDan1943 said:
IF you are in the Great Lakes, I am told you must disconnect the sanitary system from the hull valve.
Click to expand...

I dont believe that "disconnect" as in remove the hose is required on Great Lakes but rather that the overboard discharge must have a valve that is lockable, can be cable tied, or power to the pump disconnected and secured (lock, cable tie etc)
The only exception I am aware of is Lk Champlain where NY State does specify disconnected. Some challenged whether NY or VT can impose tougher requirements that the Feds but I would rather avoid the confrontation and find a way.
Given the above... if you or others ever want to cruise those waters you need to have the capability to direct discharge to a holding tank.
 
on a side note, this thread has been interesting to read and look at the various parts that were linked to. Parts I never knew existed.

Thanks all,

GFC
 
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