Vinyl Plank Flooring

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My plan to do the hatches where all 4 sides are trimmed with the J channel is to glue the 4th side of channel down with thickened epoxy.
 
I am planning to put vinyl plank flooring in my boat as well. It had carpet previously, which I've removed, so the floor is currently plywood. I was thinking of using thickened epoxy to harden the edges of the hatches so that I have a solid edge to work with, and the j-channel to finish it looks like a good option.

The particular product I'm planning to use is are flexible planks that use a 'gripstrip' installation which I've done in several locations previously, it's 100% waterproof and extremely easy to install. It's inexpensive enough that if I don't like it or it doesn't work well, I can just put something different in.

Are there any other ideas besides the j-channel to finish out edges or stair treads?
 
I am planning to use the J channel to finish the edge. This is all contingent on us buying the boat, so far we have had 2 deals fall through. The problem is where the J channel needs to curve. I will make a male and female templates out of plywood the same thickness of the flooring. The problem is getting a smooth curve in the J channel. I plan to make relief cuts in the base of the J channel. Either a V cut or just a straight cut depending on whether it is an outward curve or an inward curve.. Then press the J channel in between the male and female templates to form the curve. We will have about 4 curves of consequence to deal with. Pretty much the rest will be straight lines for the J channel. I will have a lot planks that will need to be bent around curved surfaces on the sides of the base cabinets. These are areas that currently have carpet on them. Most of the J channel will be screwed down but in a few places it will have to be glued down with thickened epoxy. On those strips I will drill holes in the base of the J channel to give the epoxy more area to hold.
 
Comodave said:
I am planning to use the J channel to finish the edge. This is all contingent on us buying the boat, so far we have had 2 deals fall through. The problem is where the J channel needs to curve. I will make a male and female templates out of plywood the same thickness of the flooring. The problem is getting a smooth curve in the J channel. I plan to make relief cuts in the base of the J channel. Either a V cut or just a straight cut depending on whether it is an outward curve or an inward curve.. Then press the J channel in between the male and female templates to form the curve. We will have about 4 curves of consequence to deal with. Pretty much the rest will be straight lines for the J channel. I will have a lot planks that will need to be bent around curved surfaces on the sides of the base cabinets. These are areas that currently have carpet on them. Most of the J channel will be screwed down but in a few places it will have to be glued down with thickened epoxy. On those strips I will drill holes in the base of the J channel to give the epoxy more area to hold.
Click to expand...
You may try to get a J channel corner 3D printed. Quite some companies offer the service online and you can provide your own 3D model that can be printed in many different materials.

L
 
Lou_tribal said:
You may try to get a J channel corner 3D printed. Quite some companies offer the service online and you can provide your own 3D model that can be printed in many different materials.

L
Click to expand...

Or, if the cuts along the curves become unsightly, have one face under the planks not above, with the vertical face proving the protection.
 

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Lou_tribal said:
You may try to get a J channel corner 3D printed. Quite some companies offer the service online and you can provide your own 3D model that can be printed in many different materials.

L
Click to expand...

Since it will be walked on I would prefer aluminum not plastic. But I know virtually nothing about 3D printing.
 
No clue about this particular one but saw some price example from another and it was pretty cheap comparing to have the same piece made by a metal worker.

L
 
sbman said:
The particular product I'm planning to use is are flexible planks that use a 'gripstrip' installation which I've done in several locations previously, it's 100% waterproof and extremely easy to install. It's inexpensive enough that if I don't like it or it doesn't work well, I can just put something different in.
Click to expand...

I tried a product that I'd used very successfully in a 4 season room. It was a thin, flexible vinyl product that had two layers. The pieces attached by a press-fit grip strip adhesive.

It failed very quicky in the boat and was all removed in less than a year. It couldn't take the heat when I'd leave the boat for a few weeks in the summer without AC -- and that was moderate Socal, not where I am now in Florida. The adhesive failed, the edges curled, and the seams came apart.

At the time the product was sold as TrafficMaster Allure at Home Depot -- but the name Allure now seems to be used on a totally different click-lock product that seems related to what was, for a time, known as Allure Ultra.

I, personally, wouldn't again trust the pressure sensitive adhesive flooring where the only adhesive is a strip where pieces interface. It but me once, bad.

All replaced in less than a year.
 
We have some samples. One has PSA backing, the whole back is covered with the adhesive. It isn’t high on my list so far since it is very thin, but it is also very light in comparison to some of the others. The ones with some sort of foam backing are thicker, so they may cover uneven substrate better but they are also much heavier. The heavier ones are a bit of a drawback since it will be in a planing hull.
 
Solly said:
Capt. Tom How did you get the last plank into the J channel on the hatches ?
Click to expand...

Yes, this was a problem. I fastened three sides with carpet tacks and liquid nails adhesive, then slid in the flooring. The last piece I just squirted the liquid nails in there under it and put some weigh on it for a couple of days. I used a long piece of 2x6 or something, piled up with heavy stuff, to keep it pressed evenly down the whole time.

This is at least the third time the sole has been replaced. The PO used square adhesive vinyl, and both the adhesive and the tile failed. I tried the adhesive backed planks and had the same result. I'm hoping the third time (and click-together) is the charm. Time will tell.

FYI, I only did the J-channel around the hatches, not the edges. The flooring is supposed to be cut shy of the walls (bulkheads, in this case) to leave room for expansion. Traditionally, you cover the gap with quarter-round, or base molding. And the edging doesn't give you much room; mine is maybe a quarter-inch wide. Not much room for error or expansion/contraction.
 
I found a company called flexiblemillwork.com that makes quarter round that is flexible. They say it can be stained or painted. I am going to order a piece and do some tests on it to see how it looks.
 
This really looks nice. Did you have to remove the flooring being replaced to maintain the same floor thickness?
 
I was given a roll of cushioned flooring vinyl bought several years back by somone but was not used and we planned on using it on our dirt house but as yet have not.

It has a very realistic spotted gum plank pattern to it.
Same planking as used in our hull

Not saying this is the same brand but does look similar
Australian-Spotted-Gum-Matt-2-Strip.jpg


https://www.carpetone.com.au/product/australian-spotted-gum-matt-2-strip/
 
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