How to keep tools from rusting?

What do you all do to keep tools, left on the boat, from rusting over time?

Also, if you have rusted tools, what's the best way to remove the rust?

Thanks!
Richard

I’ve been using 6-7 plain charcoal briquettes (not the kind with built in lighter fluid) in an old stocking, tie the end and place in your tool box, bag etc. The briquettes will absorb water and help prevent rust. I use 3-4 in the smaller orange tool boxes. Also have these in the garage tool draws and garage closets. Most spray-on products can make the tools slippers when using.

I wipe my tools down with 3 in 1 oil and keep them dry. If the tools are already rusty, I use a wire wheel on bench grinder to remove the rust. I also store most of tools out side of the engine room. Its a tough spot to store things that can rust or corrode.

One thing to do is use a grease rubbed on them, then rub it off. And put them in plastic bags or not.
To remove rust, a stainless steel scouring pad, dish soap and scrub, it will remove superficial rust. I just did this on a Craftsman 1 11/16" socket. Cleaned it and greased it.

Chromed steel has tiny microscopic pits. (now you know why chromed steels rust) The steel under the chrome rusts through the tiny pits and spreads across the chromed surface. The grease will help seal those pits. I use this Lucas green grease

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IG20RW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a good Youtube video comparing different solutions to remove rust:

Except there are products to remove rust and some to covert rust....didn't hear any explanation if what was what.

psneeld said:

Except there are products to remove rust and some to covert rust....didn't hear any explanation if what was what.

Click to expand...

Good point. Removing rust is usually mechanical process. To convert rust, I wouldn’t do it to any of my tools. From my understanding a convertor takes the rust and converts into a hard stable surface? I’ve used a converter to prep for paint rusted surfaces but never on my tools.

If you are serious and want to remove all rust w/o any attack of remaining base metal try electrolysis.
https://www.instructables.com/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/?amp_page=true
I used this on an old wood lathe I picked up.... totally stripped all rust on large & small pieces, chucks, beds, legs, headstock, etc. Wash off the residue, dry and prime quickly as the base metal is super cleaned and oxidizes quickly if not protected. I used self etching auto primer and engine enamel and it turned out like new.
Best if bath is close to the size & shape of part and electrodes are close to the part.

I keep a 5 gal bucket with electrodes fastened inside for.all small parts. 12V batty charger works great.
Worth a try to convince yourself how nice this works.

I keep many of the boat tools in a heavy plastic air-tight Milwaukee tool box I bought at Harbor freight. It is like a very thick brief case. I have been known to open its top and spray some CorrosionX or WD40 over the the tools. Several other smaller, non-tight boxes get inspected more frequently and sprayed if required. I will hit a at tool with rust converter if the tool will benefit. It's not a boat tool, I have a big steel carpenter's square which got a case of surface rust to the point the scale numbers were hard to read. I hit it with wet n dry sandpaper in varying grit until it was shiny and then let it stay wet until a very thin layer of rust developed. I died it and hit it with Extend as I recall. The result is a shiny ebony-colored tool which sits rust-free in the shed and was even recently used by the wife to square a quilt she is making after being judged VERY clean and dry.

Larry M said:

Good point. Removing rust is usually mechanical process. To convert rust, I wouldn’t do it to any of my tools. From my understanding a convertor takes the rust and converts into a hard stable surface? I’ve used a converter to prep for paint rusted surfaces but never on my tools.

Click to expand...

Not sure the basis for this. I use Ospho all the time for rusted tools.
Btw the fastest way I have found to remove rust/corrosion is a 12v 90 deg Milwaukee die grinder with 3m ROLOC pad -way faster than wire wheel or sandpaper.

For rust tools the best is evaporust. Take your tool give it a bath in evaporust for between 15 minutes to many hours depending on the level of rust, rinse with water, done. If really dirty rub with fine steel wool. This product cost about 18$ a gallon, and can be reused many times until becoming dark black.
You can also just dip your tools in pure white vinegar for few hours to a night depending on state. Rinse with water and either dry or if you want to be sure to remove any last drop of water rinse with denatured alcohol and let dry.

I am rehabbing tools older than my great grand father (like tools dated from 1800 to 1920) and I use this.

Edit note: if you want to prevent rusting, rub your tools with light oil (like 3 in one or camellia oil etc) or beeswax. No need to cover them with a thick layer, just rub them with a oiled or waxed rag after each use and that's it.

L

I keep all my tools inside the boat in the A/C. (in FL)
No signs of rust.

Lou_tribal said:

For rust tools the best is evaporust. Take your tool give it a bath in evaporust for between 15 minutes to many hours depending on the level of rust, rinse with water, done. If really dirty rub with fine steel wool. This product cost about 18$ a gallon, and can be reused many times until becoming dark black.
You can also just dip your tools in pure white vinegar for few hours to a night depending on state. Rinse with water and either dry or if you want to be sure to remove any last drop of water rinse with denatured alcohol and let dry.

I am rehabbing tools older than my great grand father (like tools dated from 1800 to 1920) and I use this.

Edit note: if you want to prevent rusting, rub your tools with light oil (like 3 in one or camellia oil etc) or beeswax. No need to cover them with a thick layer, just rub them with a oiled or waxed rag after each use and that's it.

L

Click to expand...

If you haven't, you should view that previous posted video on rust removers. While your suggestions are good, the video results shows a few twists (at least the way I interpreted it.)

I soak rusty tools in vinegar. Then rinse. As a bonus tools are less prone to rust after that. I keep tools in a canvas riggers bag.

psneeld said:

If you haven't, you should view that previous posted video on rust removers. While your suggestions are good, the video results shows a few twists (at least the way I interpreted it.)

Click to expand...

I watched it and I am a bit surprise by the timing of his experiments, does not quite match my experience except for vinegar that needs more time. The only time I left something bathing in evaporust for a whole night is when I forgot it. I don't remember having left anything in it more than 4h or so and most are far more rusty than the wrench shown at the end.
I also used one product named rust remover made in Canada, it was effective but had a tendency to blacken the metal what I really don't want, and the stain in the product was really nasty, a drop on your skin and you have a blue/green mark for quite a while.

L

In the factory where I worked, the Tool and Die makers would put pennies in their toolbox to prevent rust.

I did the same in my boat tool bags and it must have worked.

jleonard said:

In the factory where I worked, the Tool and Die makers would put pennies in their toolbox to prevent rust.

I did the same in my boat tool bags and it must have worked.

Click to expand...

I guess now I have to go find some real copper pennies.

Just move to Michigan...
As the saying goes. Great Lakes unsalted and shark free.

OldDan1943 said:

I guess now I have to go find some real copper pennies.

Click to expand...

Pre 1983 are copper. Actually the first half of '83 is copper too.

An easier solution is to buy copper pipe. Opt for 1/4" as you can use that (sheathed of course) as a butt connector for 8awg.

I keep a couple chunks in my raw water basket. Empirical evidence suggests for me I get zero growth in my filter assembly. Oh, and hello.

Comodave said:

Just move to Michigan...
As the saying goes. Great Lakes unsalted and shark free.

Click to expand...

What if you've already moved FROM Michigan?

janice142 said:

Pre 1983 are copper. Actually the first half of '83 is copper too.

An easier solution is to buy copper pipe. Opt for 1/4" as you can use that (sheathed of course) as a butt connector for 8awg.

I keep a couple chunks in my raw water basket. Empirical evidence suggests for me I get zero growth in my filter assembly. Oh, and hello.

Click to expand...

Welcome back Janice.....missed you......

La Sirena said:

What if you've already moved FROM Michigan?

Click to expand...

We have moved from Michigan several times and something keeps pulling us back...

psneeld said:

Welcome back Janice.....missed you......

Click to expand...

Same here, was wondering if everything was ok!

L

Thanks gents. I missed this place too. I confess that I spiraled during the fiasco of 2020.

Rather than derail this thread, I'll start a new one. A thousand thanks though for the warm greetings. It is appreciated.

The best rust preventative I have found is "JB Blaster". It comes in a spray can and looks and smells like transmission fluid. But as long as you don't handle the tool after you apply it, it will last a very long time.
Happy boating!

To remove rust soak in phosphoric acid ( 'Ospho' or 'A Must For Rust') and scrub with brillo pad. Let dry then rinse and coat with 3 in 1 oil ( mineral oil ) or wax with Rennaisance Wax. Amazing stuff that doesn't leave an oily residue

Boeshield T9.

Developed by Boeing to preserve and protect metals from oxidation. I spray all my tools wipe down and let dry. It leaves behind a waxy film that feels dry. My tools are 100% rust free after years aboard.

I second boeshield. I also use a bronze wire brush for initial clean up.

psneeld said:

Except there are products to remove rust and some to covert rust....didn't hear any explanation if what was what.

Click to expand...

From this source, https://www.ncptt.nps.gov/blog/comparative-study-of-commercially-available-rust-converters/

Krud Kutter® is a phosphoric acid based rust converting product. This thin green converter has a pH of 1.

OSPHO®,..., is a phosphoric acid based rust converting product balanced with dichromate and wetting agents. ... The product’s pH is 0.08

J0k3r said:

From this source, https://www.ncptt.nps.gov/blog/comparative-study-of-commercially-available-rust-converters/

Krud Kutter® is a phosphoric acid based rust converting product. This thin green converter has a pH of 1.

OSPHO®,..., is a phosphoric acid based rust converting product balanced with dichromate and wetting agents. ... The product’s pH is 0.08

Click to expand...

I know the difference and what I have had the best experience with...I was just pointing out there is more to than the concept than rust removal.