Bedding 1/4 round to fiberglass

I need to replace the 1/4 round teak trim on my flybridge and around my cabin on the main deck. Teak trim to fiberglass/gel coat deck. Not sure of what to use to bed it. I assume I should fill the old screw holes with epoxy and smooth. Then use 4200 for bedding the new screws. The question is whether or not I should bed the entire strip of 1/4 round? With what? Obviously, I have never done it!

Greetings,
Mr. fb. I would use either Dolphinite (sp?) or butyl tape for bedding. Makes it much easier to remove when (NOT if) you have to remove trim again.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. fb. I would use either Dolphinite (sp?) or butyl tape for bedding. Makes it much easier to remove when (NOT if) you have to remove trim again.

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THanks RT, hope you are well! Made it back down here yet? SO bed the whole strip in either Dolphinite or butyl. Butyl tape might be a little easier, less mess?

Greetings,
Mr. fb. Yes, the whole strip BUT that's just what I would do. Others may have a different opinion. Dolphinite IS messier but easier to compress the trim down tight IMO particularly since wood is flexible and may "bulge" between fastenings.

I will suggest that you dub the 90o corner of the 1/4 round at 45o to the square bases so there is a small pocket of sealant left that won't be squeezed out as you tighten the screws.

C lectric said:

I will suggest that you dub the 90o corner of the 1/4 round at 45o to the square bases so there is a small pocket of sealant left that won't be squeezed out as you tighten the screws.

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Thanks, that occurred to me as I was taking up the old 1/4 round today. Which was bedded with 5200. I guess that's what you use when you are absolutely sure you won't be the guy who has to take it up 35 years later! Hasn't been a fun day.

I was thinking about the best way to bevel the 90 degree. Have the power tools, table saw, router, etc. but it seems I could do it by hand without too much trouble. It totals about 35' and doesn't have to be exact, just a little relief. Guess I could set up a 45 degree jig of sorts and run it through the table saw as well.

Deck to house side on a GB is a bit greater than 90 degrees.

Giggitoni said:

Deck to house side on a GB is a bit greater than 90 degrees.

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The deck to house quarter round was next on my project list. The 5200 has dampened my enthusiasm for it though. It does look a bit different, angle-wise.

Giggitoni said:

Deck to house side on a GB is a bit greater than 90 degrees.

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I should have though of that. Oh well.

Hal
I foolishly removed a piece of 1/4 round from across the front of the coach roof at the foredeck joint. I was chasing a leak. Later found it wasn't there, but was the hatch coaming.
So I needed to replace the 1/4 round that I broke getting it up, thanks to being bedded in 5200 or some such. I used Lifecaulk Black. Wonderful stuff. That piece of wood will never move, it looks good, and it will never leak. I am not sure it is better that way, or if you should follow RTF's advice.

koliver said:

Hal
I foolishly removed a piece of 1/4 round from across the front of the coach roof at the foredeck joint. I was chasing a leak. Later found it wasn't there, but was the hatch coaming.
So I needed to replace the 1/4 round that I broke getting it up, thanks to being bedded in 5200 or some such. I used Lifecaulk Black. Wonderful stuff. That piece of wood will never move, it looks good, and it will never leak. I am not sure it is better that way, or if you should follow RTF's advice.

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Thanks. How does the black look, can it be seen at all? Did you caulk gun it onto the deck/cabin wall or did you butter the back of the 1/4 round?

I think I would go the caulk method in this application. Butyl will likely need more compression and more even compression than the screws holding the quarter round may provide. I love butyl but in applications where you get good clamping force to squeeze it evenly.

Greetings,
Mr. C. The compression problem possible with butyl tape is the reason I suggested Dolphinite. The D should ooze out similar to caulk BUT will be far easier to remove. Plus, easier clean up IMO.

firstbase said:

Thanks. How does the black look, can it be seen at all? Did you caulk gun it onto the deck/cabin wall or did you butter the back of the 1/4 round?

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The bottom of the 1/4 round sits on the teak deck, all of which is showing black, so that was the reason for choosing to use black.. The top side has only 1/32 or less showing.
IIRC ( it was a while ago) I used a small tube, not a caulking gun, so easy to keep the quantity under control. I likely buttered it.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. C. The compression problem possible with butyl tape is the reason I suggested Dolphinite. The D should ooze out similar to caulk BUT will be far easier to remove. Plus, easier clean up IMO.

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Will it clean up nicely off the quarter round after I, without a doubt, get it all over the piece?!? Or will it get down in the grain never to come out again and thereby forcing me into another paint job?? What does Dolfinite clean up with?

koliver said:

The bottom of the 1/4 round sits on the teak deck, all of which is showing black, so that was the reason for choosing to use black.. The top side has only 1/32 or less showing.
IIRC ( it was a while ago) I used a small tube, not a caulking gun, so easy to keep the quantity under control. I likely buttered it.

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I have the feeling I should practice on a piece or two to get the "how much and where" down before going live. Unless the cleanup is relatively easy which it never seems to be.

Unless it’s changed Dolphinite should clean up with mineral spirits. Is the 1/4 round varnished or natural?

dsharp said:

Unless it’s changed Dolphinite should clean up with mineral spirits. Is the 1/4 round varnished or natural?

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I was about 90% sure I was going to let it grey like the trim I removed.

Greetings,
Mr. fb. IF your 1/4 round is unfinished and you were going to let it go grey, ANYTHING is going to get stuck in the grain. Any sort of tube caulking will cure and become permanent (painting time). Dolphinite (D) will, from my experience, be removable with mineral spirits as Mr. ds notes, months after application because it never really "cures" BUT it will also get into the grain. Careful scrubbing with a toothbrush and solvent should remove most of it.


MY application "techinque" is to apply the D, install your whatever, wait a day or two, scrape of the excess with a plastic scraper then follow with a solvent wash. IF you try to remove the excess D right away you will simply smear it around. By waiting the day or two, the excess will have firmed up just enough to minimize smearing. The D entrapped behind the fitting/molding will never really harden or cure as such and that's what makes it so easy to remove when necessary.


I like the D for some applications, butyl for others and caulking, least of all BUT I do use all 3 depending on circumstances.


Please note: D had NO adhesive properties and the fitting/trim must be mechanically fastened.

firstbase said:

I was about 90% sure I was going to let it grey like the trim I removed.

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When applying any of the products mentioned, cleanup will be easier if the wood is masked first, then, after the caulking has cured, sand the wood up to the line of caulking. On the FG side, mask as well, remove the masking before it has fully cured and wipe with solvent, till you get the excess off.

Thanks, RTF/Keith. Just got home after another coat of varnish on my rails, started early today. As I look at it I think varnish would look very nice. The PO de-varnished/Awlgripped the flybridge to a great extent so a little trim won't be a big deal and would look very nice. I think some penetrating epoxy and a bunch of coats of Epifanes prior to install will help my cleanup issue a lot. A lot easier to do hanging by some string in my garage than installed on the boat!