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Old 02-16-2020, 01:26 PM   #21
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What is the top speed of your NT32? Just wondering for following seas. It’s nice to be able to keep up with the waves, or at least that is how I have dealt with it in the past.

It’s too bad that you aren’t looking to sell it in 3-5 years from now.
I like the larger seat in the pilot house as an extra place to have someone occasionally sleep.
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Old 02-17-2020, 06:01 PM   #22
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NT32 top speed

The top speed of the NT32 with the Cummins 210-hp is about 16kts (at 2600 rpm, full throttle). My normal cruise speed is at 1300 rpm, 1.8GPH, and 7.9 kts. I have heard of people cruising them at 2200 rpm, which gives about 12kts, I think. Even though I don't use the horsepower continuously, I like having the "overpowered" engine. My normal cruise is at a low and very quiet rpm and the bigger than "normal" engine requires a fairly large diameter 4-blade prop giving very good acceleration and efficiency. Yes, the engine provides the option, which I have used a few times to blast through an inlet ahead a wave crest. And I'll admit it is fun going with following seas - a quick blast of power will start surfing down a crest. I'm not sure I'd be satisfied with a normal 90 hp. The boat is available for viewing any time. Also, I can deliver it to pretty much any location in the eastern half of the US.
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Old 02-19-2020, 09:52 AM   #23
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Hello Gary! You have a beautiful vessel. Thanks for sharing, what did you do to tweak this boat? Is it common to do these modifications? Would this jeopardize the integrity of the ship? Would a surveyor comment on these when you go to sell this boat?

I am a life long boater from Milwaukee and have found a deep interest in the Nordic tug. Currently in a 40 SeaRay SunDancer and looking for something like this to give me the range I need.

Thanks for any of these answers in advance!
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Old 02-19-2020, 11:01 AM   #24
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Thanks, Al (I assume), for your questions. Most of the modifications I've done would not, think, be considered common. I'm sure nothing I've done would affect the structural integrity of the boat. Many of the changes affect the efficiency, which is measurably higher than original. I've had brokers take a look, but would they have the same reaction as a surveyor? I think so, but maybe not. Some changes seem to be viewed without a reaction, some are viewed as "really good" and some seem to be viewed with polite skepticism. The bow thruster ports have been faired in with a bit of a flare ahead of the port. I think this is a significant improvement in drag and nobody that isn't looking for it would even notice. Certainly not negative. The next big change was to add a "cuff" to the rudder. This is a stainless sleeve that converts it from a flat slab to an airfoil (hydrofoil?) shape. This gives measurably more efficiency as well as a noticeable improvement in low speed turning capability. Big project, but worth it. The hull just forward of the propeller was faired in with a lot of glass-filled bondo. This must have helped, but I don't know how much. Finally, the hull was cleaned and the bottom protected with two coats of epoxy and then 2 coats of VC-17 bottom paint, usually used for sailboats. The bottom is noticeably smoother that others. The net result of these mods is perhaps as much as .5 knots more speed with a slight reduction in fuel flow. My long-range cruise speed is 7.9kts with a fuel flow of 1.8GPH. I am very satisfied with these modifications and I think they will only add to the market value.
The most significant other changes involve the electrical system. It previously was modified to include a large 4-battery house pack that was only connected to an added 2,000 Watt inverter. I added a wire to this to connect it to the #1 terminal of the main selector switch. The original #1 battery is disconnected. The #2 battery is now also connected directly to the engine control panel. A combiner connects the batteries when either is being charged. Operationally, it is much simpler. The engine operation is just like a car - turn the key and start it. It runs without any manipulation of any switches. So for cruising I just leave the master switch in the #1 position. Works great. A surveyor might look askance at this, as there is no way to disconnect the #2 battery from the engine, thruster or windlass (although each has a breaker or fuse). If a buyer wants it done the old fashioned way It is easy to revert the wiring to the way it was. Another mod was to eliminate the run solenoid. The Cummins engine with the CAV pump normally has a solenoid valve that is activated while running. A failure of this valve or anything electrical will stop the engine and prevent it from starting. Not good. I removed the solenoid and added a stop cable. You pull a knob to stop the engine, and then engine will continue to run as long as it has fuel. The parts are there to convert it back. Then there are lots of mods with little things like cabinet latches, curtains, etc. And now I can't think of anything to improve.
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Old 02-19-2020, 03:51 PM   #25
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It sounds to me like you have made some smart changes. Good luck with your sale.
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
Makes for a PROPER profile w/o that silly stack.
I agree.
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