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Old 07-17-2019, 10:14 AM   #161
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Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
It's not going to be easy to glass the tube from the inside of the hull. Can do it all from the outside and then install a shelf a couple feet fwd of the keel end and glass tube to that.

Save mounting and glassing tube for after you get the drive motor mounted, that way shaft and tube fitment can be dead on.

You can also extend the tube somewhat aft of the keel, and build up a good bit of glass to fair the deadwood and get prop away from the turbulence.

The last tube I bought had a very precise ID that the bearing pressed into very snug. Hopefully yours is similar.

You will need a remote mounted thrust bearing on fwd end of shaft to avoid thrust loading the Prius tranny.

I agree.
Here is kind of what I am thinking. (Not to scale)
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:13 AM   #162
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Stern tube dry fit

Things are lining up pretty good in the dry fit.
The shaft in the picture is protruding more than it will be until I drill a hole in the forward bulk head for it to pass through.
The shaft length seems like it will work well for mounting the thrust bearing on the forward end.

The tube is longer than is needed but works better for alignment this way.
I have a bushing on each end keeping the shaft aligned inside.
Once it is glassed in I can cut the tube to length.

It was suggested to build a shelf under tube prior to installing. I marked my locations for this step. I am also going to file some groves in the keel hole for injecting some epoxy.

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Old 07-18-2019, 08:20 AM   #163
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Wow. Looks good. Plenty of side support to wedge the shelf in too.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:05 AM   #164
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:14 AM   #165
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stern tube glassed in

I got the stern tube glassed in.
It seems very strong.
I don't have a picture with me inside the keel but the support is substantial inside.
I built a shelf under the tube and filled it solid around the tube with epoxy.

On the outside I used 4 layers of 1708 on each side. This adds about another 1/4" around the tube with a 1/2" thick angle support.

The new cutlass bearing seems like it will be a snug fit. I didn't press it all the way in yet.
I need to drill and tap a couple of set screw holes first.

Do I need to tap a hole and install a tube inside near the stuffing box to feed water for cooling the cutlass bearing?
I have seen this on some systems.

Next is the rudder mounting.

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Old 07-25-2019, 06:06 AM   #166
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"Do I need to tap a hole and install a tube inside near the stuffing box to feed water for cooling the cutlass bearing?
I have seen this on some systems."

Probably not at your speeds.

Some stuffing boxes need cooling , but a std unit with modern packing does not.
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Old 07-25-2019, 06:48 AM   #167
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It is good to have some water flow through the cutlass bearing. Mainly to flush out any sand or wear products. Most use a hole drilled fwd of the bearing venting the tube volume to the sea. Normal boat motion provides some flow.

It does not look like the tube extends far enough from the keel to do this. And I doubt you are having any forced cooling water with your propulsion system. So you will likely do without. Probably no big deal.

You could probably tap into a through-hull fitting and connect to a tap in fwd part of the tube. Probably not worth the trouble.
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Old 07-26-2019, 07:31 AM   #168
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rudder dry fit

I made the new pad for the rudder hardware and did a dry fit yesterday.

I wanted to move the rudder closer to the prop for better torque vectoring at low speed but the hardware would have intruded into the aft cabin too much.

I think this will work. May not have the greatest maneuverability but I can tweak things in the future. ie bigger rudder or stern thruster

I will have to drop the rudder or insert the shaft from the inside of the keel. I did not put an offset in the alignment.

Now I need to start patching the blisters and filling the unused running gear through hull areas.

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Old 07-26-2019, 08:03 AM   #169
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Even just eye-balling it, it appears that you're going to have very poor performance from that rudder, especially considering that you'll likely be focused on slow speed cruising.

Is that just one of the previous rudders from when your boat was a twin? Perhaps think about doubling the size of that rudder, making sure it is airfoil shaped, add a fish-tail wedge to the trailing edge, and possibly running a steel support skeg from the keel to support the bottom of the rudder post (like a deep, stainless C-channel).

Easier to do it now rather than later when you have to haul the boat back on land again with all those costs.

However, you may wish to visit boatdesign.net/forums and ask for some assistance with calculations for rudder size and also some feedback on how far back it is located.
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Old 07-27-2019, 09:09 AM   #170
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"I will have to drop the rudder or insert the shaft from the inside of the keel. I did not put an offset in the alignment."

On many rudders a hole is drilled to allow the shaft to be fitted with the rudder in place.

A large Zinc can cover the hole , if you think it matters.
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Old 07-27-2019, 10:10 AM   #171
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I'm no expert in rudders, but have set up quite a few. My gut feel is the rudder being well aft of the wheel will not be a big problem. The prop wash will hit the rudder whether it is one foot or three feet aft. Might have some issue in zero speed maneuvering, but once the wash does hit the rudder, you will have an effect.

I'd say continue as planned, but build in some contingency to move rudder should steering suck massively.
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Old 08-05-2019, 10:04 AM   #172
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aft helm station

This weekend I mounted the helm from the removed flybridge above the aft cabin. I live in Florida and it will be too hot to only have a lower station inside the saloon. Later on I will likely build a dash board for instrumentation. The helm mount is just a left over piece of stainless from the unused rudder hardware.
From this station there should be fairly good visibility across the top of the solar panel array and down each side deck. There is also room for some custom seating.

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The new rudder location is forward the original ones by a little over a foot. I repositioned the hydraulics under a bench seat in the cabin. I still have to reinforce the structure and plumb in the relief valves and reservoir.

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I am probably going to stick with the undersized rudder for now to continue with the experiment.

I am only doing minimal items in order to get the boat in the water and towed to my dock for additional mechanical work.

I also glassed over the twin shaft log holes. I put 10 layers of 1708 and used epoxy resin. I put 3 layers inside and 7 layers outside. My fiberglass skills are improving.

Getting ready to tackle the blister patches. I am planning on using two layers of 1708 for each.
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Old 08-23-2019, 02:06 PM   #173
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Any updates to the build?
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Old 09-16-2019, 09:38 AM   #174
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getting ready for bottom paint

I have all the blister patches glassed in. I used two layers (sometimes 3 layers) of 1708 and epoxy resin in each patch.

I should finish fairing this week using Total Boat fairing compound.

I ordered 8 gallons of Interlux 2000e epoxy primer today. Hopefully paint in a couple weeks.

I am also enlarging my rudder. At least by 50%. I will show some pictures for this later. Since I changed from twin screw to single screw using only one of the two original rudders may not be enough surface area.

It has been a back breaker so far. I think I have identified several areas for the water intrusion that are being remedied. Perhaps I have a 50% chance of arresting the blistering problem in the future.

I also scored some props and a swim platform from another scrapped boat in the yard. I already mounted the swim platform. It should work nicely.
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The props are 23x22 with a 1 3/8" shaft. My original shaft was 1 1/2" but I also got the shafts and packing gland from the donor boat. They were in pretty good condition.

Napkin math for 22" pitch means 48rpm per mph without considering slippage. I expect to be in the 300 to 400 shaft rpm for 5 to 6 mph. This happens to be a good rpm for my motor and gear box also.

I am glad I got both the left and right hand props. I don't know which orientation I will be mounting my electric motor and transmission and it does have a preferred forward rotation in the gear box. Having both props allows me some flexibility in motor orientation.

I also cut a section of the 1 3/8" shaft to act a dummy shaft for the initial launch. I can then get the full shaft cut to length and keyed once I mount my motor. I will then attempt to swap the shafts out in the water without sinking.

My goal is to float the boat next month and tow to my dock for topside and interior projects.

This is turning into a life long hobby but one of my first projects will be to mount some of the solar panels even before I mount the motor. With some panels mounted I can experiment with my inverter designs.

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Old 10-21-2019, 07:20 AM   #175
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Barrier Coat and Larger Rudder

I finished putting my barrier coats of Interprotect 2000E.
After I put the first coat on, it became apparent that I needed to fill and fair the entire hull. I knew there were pin hole voids and grinding gouges but I was hopeful the paint would hide them. It did not.

The fill and fairing was a big job and the boat seemed to get bigger as I went.
Really looks nice now after 4 more coats of Interprotect.
A lot of sins covered by the paint.

I also installed the modified rudder. I added about 50% more surface area with fiberglass tail in a tear drop profile for less water resistance.

I now need to apply another coat of Interprotect followed by a coat of anti-fouling while the primer is still tacky to avoid sanding. This stuff dries so fast I am not sure how I am going to pull this off.

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Old 10-21-2019, 08:26 AM   #176
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S.L. your progress is fantastic.

Looking at the rudder, even though it is larger, it seems that perhaps only half of it is directly in the slipstream.

Perhaps consider adding a couple of bent plates to the trailing edge to create a fish tale. That should help demonstrably with slow speed maneuvering.
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:32 AM   #177
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Does not look like an optimal rudder for this app, but rudders are easy to modify later. I'd roll with it as is. It might work fine.

I've never had a problem putting antifoul right over fully cured interprotect. Maybe I was not following the instructions, but I did not have any problems with antifoul adhesion.
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:41 AM   #178
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Really coming along nice, SL. I'm looking forward to hearing about the first few test runs.
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Old 11-19-2019, 07:45 AM   #179
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it is floating very high

I finally put the project in the water.

I'm getting things coordinated to tow it 20miles to my dock.

I removed all the old rusted kitchen appliances which was a few hundred pounds.
(refrigerator, washer and dryer, trash compactor, dish washer, ice maker)

I also siphoned out 250 gallons of fuel and emptied the water tank. Both of these tanks are molded into the keel forward of where the old engines were.

The fresh water (not so fresh) had a salty taste to it. I don't know how old it is. I don't know if it was sea water or something else causing the salty taste.

Without engines and everything else, the boat weighed 18000# according to the lift gauges.

You can sort of see in the picture that it sits very high in the water. The bow thruster is only half way submerged.
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Adding weight down will be essential especially with my plans of adding the solar panels up high. I found some specs for the GulfStar 43 motorsailor which is the same hull design. It showed 3500# of ballast.

The latest sketch of my solar array plans uses 18 of the sunpower E20-327 series. I saw these used on ebay for around $100 each.

I mounted the helm above the aft cabin and plan to leave an opening in the solar array in that area.

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Old 11-19-2019, 08:21 AM   #180
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You miight want to get some ballast down there in the bilge!! Stability is in question with all that weight pulled out. How dicey stability is impossible to tell over the net. Get some weight down low and leave it there until you start adding batteries. They make good ballast.

Any factory ballast in the keel/bilge?
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