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Old 03-06-2021, 02:06 PM   #21
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Hi Peter,


It was the engine side - where the slave cylinder is.

I can remember my yard showing me a standard VW slave cylinder they ordered and how it was ever-so-slightly different from the original where the tube connected. They were quite confident that they could adapt it, but since I didn't want to take any risk of having to open the clutch housing again, I told them to use the "Greenline-specific" part...which was specifically more expensive ;-( I'm only telling you this because, at least on my 2010 model, there was some small, but possibly important difference. So be sure to compare your old and new cylinders closely. Perhaps the cylinders were fully standardized by the time they got around to model year 2014.

Your Letrika manual makes me drool. I will send you a PM.
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Old 03-06-2021, 02:07 PM   #22
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I ended up relocating my reservoir to a more accessible location where I can easily keep an eye on it. See pix. (Click on pictures to enlarge).

I've thought of doing this also, as you have to remove the stbd side sound insulation panel to see the reservoir.. I'm thinking of leaving this off for the big cruise down to southern CA - about a 900mi round trip - for quicker access to bilge through-hulls and engine in general. Have you seen much of a noise difference motoring without it, if you've done that?
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Old 03-06-2021, 02:13 PM   #23
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I've thought of doing this also, as you have to remove the stbd side sound insulation panel to see the reservoir.. I'm thinking of leaving this off for the big cruise down to southern CA - about a 900mi round trip - for quicker access to bilge through-hulls and engine in general. Have you seen much of a noise difference motoring without it, if you've done that?

YES. You really don't want to travel 900 miles on diesel with that panel off. The noise difference is significant. It may also affect the engine ventilation (probably in a good way, actually...but it's something I would want to experiment with before embarking on a long trip). Further, leaving the panel off would lessen the effect of the fire extinguisher...and expose much of your bilge and other equipment to the corrosive powder, should the unthinkable happen.


Edit: And by "significant" I meant the difference between talking in a normal voice to a passenger in the salon while underway vs. shouting at that passenger...
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Old 03-06-2021, 02:27 PM   #24
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Hi Peter,


It was the engine side - where the slave cylinder is.

I can remember my yard showing me a standard VW slave cylinder they ordered and how it was ever-so-slightly different from the original where the tube connected. They were quite confident that they could adapt it, but since I didn't want to take any risk of having to open the clutch housing again, I told them to use the "Greenline-specific" part...which was specifically more expensive ;-( I'm only telling you this because, at least on my 2010 model, there was some small, but possibly important difference. So be sure to compare your old and new cylinders closely. Perhaps the cylinders were fully standardized by the time they got around to model year 2014.

Your Letrika manual makes me drool. I will send you a PM.

The one ordered looks identical to the one pictured in the manual. It does have "INT" after the part #, which I assume is for "international".
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Old 03-08-2021, 04:56 AM   #25
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Clutch master cylinder

I've been pondering why a sturdy diesel VW van clutch master cylinder would fail with relatively little usage in this application. But then realized that when actuated on the boat, it's depressed and held as long as you're in electric mode rather than briefly with each shift in an auto, leading to "premature" (7 years old) breakdown of the piston seals - O-rings?

If the replacement coming Thursday works, I'm going to order a spare!
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Old 08-24-2022, 12:58 AM   #26
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I am interested to learn about what Greenline is CURRENTLY using for solar panels on their newer 45 and 48 models. I understand that earlier GLs used BISOL Group BLO-300 solar panels: can anyone tell me if these are still being fitted to the GL45 & 48 models? ALSO: GL's marketing materials say that their solar panels are kept cool by "forced air ventilation": can someone tell me what these means in practice and just how the panels are mounted to the hardtops? Last Q for now: what MPPT controller brand does GL use and how many controllers are installed on a 45 or 48 Coupe/

thanks in advance for taking the time to respond !
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Old 08-24-2022, 01:52 PM   #27
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Current Panels are 330 Watt Output

Our current generation of solar panels put out up to 330 watts each.
The "Forced Air Ventilation" is based on the panels being elevated off the fiberglass structure and there are "Air" gaps around the perimeter that allow any heat under the panels to escape, thereby reducing the temperature.
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Old 08-24-2022, 08:28 PM   #28
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Sounds like they are mounted very much like those on most domestic house arrays.
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Old 08-24-2022, 09:04 PM   #29
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Sounds like they are mounted very much like those on most domestic house arrays.
I was interested in mounting because they're solid panels, not the flexible type that many folks put on their boats. Perhaps an owner might post a pic of the mounting/air gap at some stage.
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Old 08-24-2022, 09:21 PM   #30
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Our current generation of solar panels put out up to 330 watts each.
The "Forced Air Ventilation" is based on the panels being elevated off the fiberglass structure and there are "Air" gaps around the perimeter that allow any heat under the panels to escape, thereby reducing the temperature.

Ah, so not forced ventilation, but natural convention. That's an interesting new definition for forced convection.
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Old 08-24-2022, 10:46 PM   #31
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Ah, so not forced ventilation, but natural convention. That's an interesting new definition for forced convection.
Maybe call it "Gentle forced voluntary natural convection"
Usual rule is allow 1"/25mm clearance under panel. Good if the panels get unimpeded air flow with bow into wind, eg, while on hook/mooring ball.
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Old 08-25-2022, 09:56 AM   #32
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I agree with TT. The use of the term "forced" in this case is flat-out misleading.
I know the OP said he was interested in what GL is CURRENTLY doing in this regard -- especially for 45's and 48's. I do not know. But, since it may add some value to this discussion for some, I will upload a few photos in my next post to show what's on my GL33 -- and I suspect still on the new GL33's.
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Old 08-25-2022, 10:18 AM   #33
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Solar Panel Cooling

These pictures are from when I had my original 2010 solar panels replaced with the newer, 300W panels (latest tech available from Greenline/SVP Yachts in 2019). You can see the air channels, but the air entrance is limited to some degree. I imagine this is for support purposes. While I can't measure easily now, it does look to me like the channels could be 20-25mm high "inside". I imagine there must be a fair amount of air "forced" in when moving forward. Sitting at anchor, however, is probably a different matter.
Attached Thumbnails
Solar1.jpg   Solar2.jpg   Solar3.jpg   Solar4.jpg   Solar5.jpg  

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Old 08-30-2022, 05:48 PM   #34
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Solar panel replacement

Thanks for the photos Scott. The pic with the vacuum cleaner looks like the guy is sitting on the original panels. Is that right? I've never been game enough to go up there when cleaning and always done it with a long handled broom.

Was the panel replacement as horrendously expensive as I imagine?


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These pictures are from when I had my original 2010 solar panels replaced with the newer, 300W panels (latest tech available from Greenline/SVP Yachts in 2019). You can see the air channels, but the air entrance is limited to some degree. I imagine this is for support purposes. While I can't measure easily now, it does look to me like the channels could be 20-25mm high "inside". I imagine there must be a fair amount of air "forced" in when moving forward. Sitting at anchor, however, is probably a different matter.
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Old 09-05-2022, 01:18 PM   #35
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Thanks for the photos Scott. The pic with the vacuum cleaner looks like the guy is sitting on the original panels. Is that right? I've never been game enough to go up there when cleaning and always done it with a long handled broom.

Was the panel replacement as horrendously expensive as I imagine?

Yes - both guys were crawling around on the roof. I have never done it and would not do it. The owner's manual says don't...so I don't risk it.
I have never used a broom on the panels. Only a telescopic water brush (i.e. brush with hose attached). Never any soaps or detergents needed.


I will be home near the end of this month and will look up the cost of the panel replacement and PM you. I can tell you, however, that it was less expensive than I thought it would be.
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Old 09-21-2022, 12:54 PM   #36
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Has anyone tried one of these replacement packs or make there own pack?
pack/http://https://eauto.si/metron-shop/...-battery-pack/

I am considering purchasing a GL 33 with a bad battery and have been looking at replacement options. I am really considering building my own pack. Based on measurements of this replacement pack I believe I could fit a 20KW lifepo4 pack using 32 CALB 230Ah cells in same space.
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