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Old 12-11-2021, 04:00 PM   #61
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Sure sounds like something is amiss with your engine cooling system. You should be able to run at full power without overheating. Saying “don’t do that” is a lazy cop-out.

I’d start with the raw water strainer to be sure it’s clear. That’s the easiest to check. From there I’d start shooting the raw water temp entering and exiting the heat exchanger, and the coolant temp entering and existing the heat exchanger. Others have more experience and will hopefully chime in, but I would expect to see a 10-20f drop in the coolant temp, and a smaller rise in the raw water. If you see a large rise in the raw water, then not enough is passing through the cooler.
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Old 12-11-2021, 08:19 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by GL40Hybrid129 View Post
Hi All,
Calling all Greenline 40 Hybrid owners: What is your cruising speed? I was hoping to be able to cruise up on a plane at 14-15knts, but whenever I do I get an engine overheating warning. In fact, whenever I run at over 3100RPM I get that warning after about 15 minutes. So that limits me to 11 KNTs max cruising speed. I even had a Volvo mechanic hook up his computer and he said I'm at 80% of max load at 3100RPM, and to just stop pushing it. And I had only half fuel, practically no water, and just the two of us aboard. Would love to hear if other GL40 Hybrid owners are able to cruise up on a plane.

As asked before, ONE or BOTH engines? Is a buzzer warning or just a digital or analog gauge reading?

I ask because the analog temp gauge on my GL33 Hybrid is grossly over-reading at about 95C (203F)when at half-power (~3200 RPM) going up to 100C @ sustained 3850 WOT. BUT, the iPAD digital systems monitoring readout is 80C (176F), rising to only ~ 85C/185F WOT. This is consistent with my reading that the VW 165 TDi's thermostat was set to open @ 80C.
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Old 12-12-2021, 04:21 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by PeterB40 View Post
As asked before, ONE or BOTH engines? Is a buzzer warning or just a digital or analog gauge reading?

I ask because the analog temp gauge on my GL33 Hybrid is grossly over-reading at about 95C (203F)when at half-power (~3200 RPM) going up to 100C @ sustained 3850 WOT. BUT, the iPAD digital systems monitoring readout is 80C (176F), rising to only ~ 85C/185F WOT. This is consistent with my reading that the VW 165 TDi's thermostat was set to open @ 80C.

Hi PeterB,


A comment related to your temp comments above:


I too, have noticed a similar discrepancy between my analogue temperature gauge and the VW Marine Digital readout at the helm (VW165-TDI). This has always annoyed me, but never to the extent that I wanted to spend any time, money and effort to figure out why. I guess I sort of classified this phenomenon in my mind as something like what one experiences when one has two clocks... you never know exactly what time it is. Anyway, it's nice to know that my GL is not the only one that behaves like this ;-)


And a comment related to your RPM comments above, but probably not at all related to the OP's question...

I have never seen 3850 RPM on my VW165-TDI...and it's been this way since I bought the boat with 16 hours on the engine. As I mentioned earlier, I can go 13 knots with the boat loaded. And I can go 14 with the boat mostly empty. Have never seen the Greenline-claimed 15 knots -- but then I never really cared about this, because I almost never want to run at these speeds anyway. Somewhere along the line, I learned that optimal prop style for diesel-only GL33's was 4-blade. And for Electric operation 5-Blade. And that what was being delivered with the hybrids in 2010/2011 was a 5-Blade...and that that was the least-bad "compromise" solution for the GL33 hybrid. So, I have the factory-delivered 5-BLADE Michigan 17"xI4" RH BORE 40MM. I also carry a spare with the exact same specs, just in case. Wondering what you have, as I expect prop-specs might possibly explain some difference in WOT RPM (??? I am not a marine engineer).
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Old 12-12-2021, 01:39 PM   #64
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Hi PeterB,


A comment related to your temp comments above:


I too, have noticed a similar discrepancy between my analogue temperature gauge and the VW Marine Digital readout at the helm (VW165-TDI). This has always annoyed me, but never to the extent that I wanted to spend any time, money and effort to figure out why. I guess I sort of classified this phenomenon in my mind as something like what one experiences when one has two clocks... you never know exactly what time it is. Anyway, it's nice to know that my GL is not the only one that behaves like this ;-)


And a comment related to your RPM comments above, but probably not at all related to the OP's question...

I have never seen 3850 RPM on my VW165-TDI...and it's been this way since I bought the boat with 16 hours on the engine. As I mentioned earlier, I can go 13 knots with the boat loaded. And I can go 14 with the boat mostly empty. Have never seen the Greenline-claimed 15 knots -- but then I never really cared about this, because I almost never want to run at these speeds anyway. Somewhere along the line, I learned that optimal prop style for diesel-only GL33's was 4-blade. And for Electric operation 5-Blade. And that what was being delivered with the hybrids in 2010/2011 was a 5-Blade...and that that was the least-bad "compromise" solution for the GL33 hybrid. So, I have the factory-delivered 5-BLADE Michigan 17"xI4" RH BORE 40MM. I also carry a spare with the exact same specs, just in case. Wondering what you have, as I expect prop-specs might possibly explain some difference in WOT RPM (??? I am not a marine engineer).
Glad to hear that your analog gauge is way off too! I'm gonna take mine out and see if there's a setting adjustment for the potentiometer. On a previous the sea trial w/ WOT run for my '14 w/ 230 EH's, the surveyor was concerned enough to get the owner to check the sea water impeller and rod-out the heat exchanger tubes - all normal. But they prob. never looked at the iPad Moftec program he had that Greenline used for systems monitoring.

I've never seen over about 13.5 knots tops on mine, which has the 5-blade 17x14 prop too, with Prop-Speed and reglular bottom cleanings.
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Old 12-12-2021, 01:52 PM   #65
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Hi All,
Calling all Greenline 40 Hybrid owners: What is your cruising speed? I was hoping to be able to cruise up on a plane at 14-15knts, but whenever I do I get an engine overheating warning. In fact, whenever I run at over 3100RPM I get that warning after about 15 minutes. So that limits me to 11 KNTs max cruising speed. I even had a Volvo mechanic hook up his computer and he said I'm at 80% of max load at 3100RPM, and to just stop pushing it. And I had only half fuel, practically no water, and just the two of us aboard. Would love to hear if other GL40 Hybrid owners are able to cruise up on a plane.
I have a 2018 diesel-only GL40 with twin Volvo D3-220 engines. I cruise at about 15kts at around 2300 rpm. The engines temp stays at 85 degrees C.

Are your propellers OK? Did someone change the propellers with different spec ones, or changed the propeller piltch? Is your cooling system clogged up? Is your boat severely overloaded? Is your hull clean?

There must be a problem somewhere.

There's a boattest.com review here: https://boattest.com/node/74633.

There's also a boattest.com YouTube video with more speed/consumption info for the Volvo powered GL40.

Good luck.
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Old 12-12-2021, 01:54 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterB40 View Post
Glad to hear that your analog gauge is way off too! I'm gonna take mine out and see if there's a setting adjustment for the potentiometer. On a previous the sea trial w/ WOT run for my '14 w/ 230 EH's, the surveyor was concerned enough to get the owner to check the sea water impeller and rod-out the heat exchanger tubes - all normal. But they prob. never looked at the iPad Moftec program he had that Greenline used for systems monitoring.

I've never seen over about 13.5 knots tops on mine, which has the 5-blade 17x14 prop too, with Prop-Speed and reglular bottom cleanings.



Good to know!
My quoted statistics were without Prop-Speed. But Prop-Speed is on it now. I hope the only difference will be reduced fouling. I will find out in the spring!
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Old 12-12-2021, 07:09 PM   #67
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STBD engine is showing the overheating warning. But coolant temp never reads over 183. It's an oil temp warning, and there's no oil temp gage. So somehow the oil temp goes higher while the coolant temp stays steady. I keep the strainers clean. In fact, got the warning right after cleaning the strainers. I'm considering putting in bigger through hulls and bigger strainers. Thoughts? I do have lots of weight on board generally but was 1/2 fuel and no water when the tech was aboard. Have the 5 blade factory prop with Propspeed. I'm wondering about air intake. There's tremendous negative pressure in the cabin when we run closed up. Which is often to keep tern wash from coating the cabin. In rough water when we're taking spray on the windows, water gets in the sliding windo chanals and gets sucked into the cabin and spit aggressively into the cabin, soaking the head, guest bunk helm, and other side window. I already rewired the blower fans so both blow in. (One was wired to exhaust.) But that didn't help. I'm trying to figure out how to get more air to the bilge.
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Old 12-12-2021, 07:36 PM   #68
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You should not need larger raw water intakes and strainers. Just make sure your impellers are good, and the heat exchangers are not restricted.

I do not notice any engine temp changes with full fuel, water, and dinghy at cruising speed.
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Old 12-12-2021, 08:24 PM   #69
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Quote:
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STBD engine is showing the overheating warning. But coolant temp never reads over 183. It's an oil temp warning, and there's no oil temp gage. So somehow the oil temp goes higher while the coolant temp stays steady. I keep the strainers clean. In fact, got the warning right after cleaning the strainers. I'm considering putting in bigger through hulls and bigger strainers. Thoughts? I do have lots of weight on board generally but was 1/2 fuel and no water when the tech was aboard. Have the 5 blade factory prop with Propspeed. I'm wondering about air intake. There's tremendous negative pressure in the cabin when we run closed up. Which is often to keep tern wash from coating the cabin. In rough water when we're taking spray on the windows, water gets in the sliding windo chanals and gets sucked into the cabin and spit aggressively into the cabin, soaking the head, guest bunk helm, and other side window. I already rewired the blower fans so both blow in. (One was wired to exhaust.) But that didn't help. I'm trying to figure out how to get more air to the bilge.
Well that sounds more like instrument malfunction to me - especially if your helm is being bathed in salt water!

Truly bizarre story about the "tremendous negative pressure" in your soaked cabin. If that's really the case, and not just leaky windows, which would be very unusual with the design, then simply opening the entry door should immediately stop it. I simply can't believe this is the case in the well designed and engineered Greenlines unless someone has really mucked up the engine room vents...
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Old 12-13-2021, 12:53 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by GL40Hybrid129 View Post
STBD engine is showing the overheating warning. But coolant temp never reads over 183. It's an oil temp warning, and there's no oil temp gage. So somehow the oil temp goes higher while the coolant temp stays steady.
I'm confused. If there is no oil temp gauge, how in heck do you know the oil temp is going high..? Sounds like a faulty warning buzzer.

If the water temps are ok, one suspects the oil temps are also ok, (as long as you have the right amount of oil in each engine - and even then most engines are pretty forgiving of a slightly lower than normal oil level), as water temp rises usually come well before oil temp dangerous rises in internal combustion engines I've ever dealt with.

As someone suggested, if you have salty water misting in over your helm, look for instrument damage and error as a more likely scenario than weird engine behaviour or inadequate coolint flow.
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Old 12-13-2021, 06:01 AM   #71
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I'm trying to figure out how to get more air to the bilge.
I read your comments about negative pressure in the cabin with a bit of alarm.

This really shouldn't be the case. If the GL40 is anything like the GL33 setup, the exhaust fan in the engine room is supposed to suck the air OUT. But, it will not be able to suck air OUT if the engine room air intake channel is blocked or partially blocked. Such could genuinely lead to the negative cabin pressure you describe. So, I think it is imperative for you to locate the air intake channel and check that.

I'm not sure about the location of this channel for the GL40, but my guess is that it may be positioned similarly to that on the GL33. On the GL33, the intake channel is along the starboard deck, facing down (not visible unless you get on your knees and look up under the small edge of the cabin that overhangs the walkway a bit). The exhaust is similarly placed, but on the port side.

Could air starvation lead to overheating oil in a diesel? I'm not sure, but you need to resolve the negative cabin pressure anyway.

Good luck on your investigations!
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Old 12-14-2021, 02:44 AM   #72
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It all sounds a bit weird Scott. Air starvation, if that is an issue, would tend to cause an over-rich mixture, and a cooler running temp if anything. Not a warmer temp, a lean mixture is usually the cause of that. I don't think diesels are any different in that respect. The engine should be running roughly if there was air starvation as well.
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Old 12-14-2021, 07:43 AM   #73
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I looked at the Greenline 33 and 40 some about 4 years ago at the Newport Boat Show. A very interesting boat. I asked about the warranty on the main battery bank and replacement cost. They said 5 years and did not have a price and for what ever reason could not get back to me with one. Without a price, I walked away feeling that the cost could well excide the benefits.

So would anyone know the cost?
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Old 12-14-2021, 11:09 AM   #74
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If I'm following correctly. The engine coolant temps is fine with gauge showing ~180F and no alarms. But you are getting an oil temp alarm. There is no oil temp gauge, just an alarm.


I agree that this sounds like a faulty oil temp sensor. You could confirm by using a temp guy and checking the temp of the oil pan on both engines. They should be pretty much the same. If your engine came with a manual, it might say what the alarm temp threshold is, and you could compare that to your actual measurement. But most operator guides dumb it down and say something like "oil temperature is too high. Contact an authorized service dealer."


If the oil temp actually is high then there is really an issue with the engine, and definitely NOT the boat. I'm told the Lehman's are different, but all engines I've seen have coolant cooled oil coolers. That's a lot of "cool" in one sentence. Either the coolant isn't circulating as it should, or the oil isn't circulating as it should. When was the oil filter last changed? A badly plugged oil filter might restrict oil flow, but I'd think that would be accompanied by a pressure reduction too. Depends on how the engine and flows are set up, I suppose. I'm not at all familiar with the details of the Volvo D3.
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Old 03-11-2022, 09:18 AM   #75
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Greenline 40: General Discussion

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Any idea of how long you can run at 8kts. I don't know if there is linear or non linear equation on range with speed vs. time. E.g., you can run 8 hours at 4kts, but only 2 hours at 8kts? I know as you approach hull speed you are using more energy to get past it, but up to about 90% of hull speed, I would expect close to linear? Hull speed on GL 40 is about 8.2 kts.


Because I’m at full throttle to be over 8 kts, I never run it for very long at that speed. 20 mins max, then I start feeling nervous. But, very often I’ll keep it at 5 to 6 kts for up to two and a half hours. By that time I’m usually down to 40% on the battery. (Keep in mind I have an extra battery so i get a longer time on pure electrics). But I get nervous allowing the batteries to drain below 40%, so I usually switch to diesel for about an hour. Usually I’m back up to over 90% after an hour on diesel (averaging between 15 and 17knts).
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Old 03-11-2022, 09:26 AM   #76
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Because I’m at full throttle to be over 8 kts, I never run it for very long at that speed. 20 mins max, then I start feeling nervous. But, very often I’ll keep it at 5 to 6 kts for up to two and a half hours. By that time I’m usually down to 40% on the battery. (Keep in mind I have an extra battery so i get a longer time on pure electrics). But I get nervous allowing the batteries to drain below 40%, so I usually switch to diesel for about an hour. Usually I’m back up to over 90% after an hour on diesel (averaging between 15 and 17knts).

I looked at the Greenline 40 about 2 or 3 years ago. My wife and I really liked it but they could not answer one question and maybe you could.

They told me that there was a 5 year warranty on the batteries. But they could not tell me the replacement cost. Without that, I backed away from the deal. Would you know??
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Old 03-11-2022, 02:16 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GL40Hybrid129 View Post
Hi All,
Calling all Greenline 40 Hybrid owners: What is your cruising speed? I was hoping to be able to cruise up on a plane at 14-15knts, but whenever I do I get an engine overheating warning. In fact, whenever I run at over 3100RPM I get that warning after about 15 minutes. So that limits me to 11 KNTs max cruising speed. I even had a Volvo mechanic hook up his computer and he said I'm at 80% of max load at 3100RPM, and to just stop pushing it. And I had only half fuel, practically no water, and just the two of us aboard. Would love to hear if other GL40 Hybrid owners are able to cruise up on a plane.
Good Day , I have had this issue at 18 nots , I can cruise at 14/15 all day long, although 10/12 nots is my fuel consumption sweet spot.
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Old 04-16-2022, 01:26 AM   #78
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Greenline passerelle

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Now that we have a new, dedicated area for Greenline/Solar/Hybrid discussion, I thought I would start this thread with an eye toward aggregating Greenline 40 discussions that do not fit into any of the other thread categories. Hopefully, this will make it easier for those that might be doing research in the future. Not sure if this type of "organization" will work or not, but will try and see what happens.
Before picking up my new-used Greenline 33 Hybrid next week, I have a serious doubt about how can an aging skipper and wife get on and off safely in Med stern moorings, especially with a high pier.
I would like to know what type of gangplank/passerelle everyone uses and whether a folding one can be stored in the floor outside lazarette/locker. What is the measurement of that lazarette door? How high is the railing from sea level? Where can the passerelle be fitted, on the stern rail? Can one easily use the corner seat as a step? Does the sun roof provide a grab-hold? Thank you for info and any suggestions.
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Old 04-16-2022, 04:44 AM   #79
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Before picking up my new-used Greenline 33 Hybrid next week, I have a serious doubt about how can an aging skipper and wife get on and off safely in Med stern moorings, especially with a high pier.
I would like to know what type of gangplank/passerelle everyone uses and whether a folding one can be stored in the floor outside lazarette/locker. What is the measurement of that lazarette door? How high is the railing from sea level? Where can the passerelle be fitted, on the stern rail? Can one easily use the corner seat as a step? Does the sun roof provide a grab-hold? Thank you for info and any suggestions.

We struggled with this, since arriving in the Med with our GL33 in 2019. We just finished installing what we believe may be the perfect solution. It was expensive, but in the big picture, probably less expensive than a broken limb and big medical bills while traveling.

I will post pictures in a day or two and provide you some additional information.
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Old 04-17-2022, 11:40 AM   #80
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While a retractable remote controlled solution would have been nice, we did not want all this "junk" hanging off the stern just waiting for an accident to happen. We also did not want the 80-100 kilos that come with equipment like that.

We then set about looking for the next best thing. Our requirements:
- Strong and as light as possible. Light enough for one person to deploy easily

- Very little, if any equipment permanently protruding from the stern
- Collapsible for easier stowing
- Lockable, in order to prevent theft
- Rounded ends to accommodate shifting of the boat while limiting undesired passerelle contact with the transom.
- Able to lower swim platform without having to take down the passerelle.


After months of searching, this is the only option we were able come up with that covered all these requirements:
https://exitcarbon.com/gangways/
Model “Aurora”
The company is based in Italy, near Venice, but the sell and ship worldwide.

We had to have Exit Carbon Engineering produce a custom-designed mounting bracket, due to the angle of the transom and the locking requirement.

On a GL33, using the existing port seat as a “step” is essential. We theorized that, for the most part, we wanted to step “over” the top of the transom and not “up” to the level of the gunwhale with a passerelle resting on top of it. This would not work so well. Too many twists and contortions due to the limit the roof places on standing there. So, we guessed and mounted the bracket such that the top of the passerelle was 31 cm lower than the top of the gunwhale. The seat is 37 cm lower than the top of the gunwhale. Was this a good guess? It’s too soon to tell. So far, we’ve tied up only in three locations. Two of them made me think that were I do the project over again, I would mount the bracket a couple of cm higher…but, really, the jury is still out.

Another essential part of the solution are handholds mounted to the roof on the aft of the boat (see picture). These are inexpensive and are simple to install. We had a yard do it and the total cost for the work, including the handholds was about 250 Eur. Even if you don’t get a passerelle, these will help A LOT.
https://www.osculati.com/en/11292-41...9x25-mm-450-mm
450mm model

We also mounted a single swim step just under the bracket to protect it, in case of coming too close to a piling, for example.
It’s identical to the starboard side swim steps used on GL33’s
https://www.osculati.com/en/11627-49.../climbing-step


As for storage…
See photos. The Aurora comes with a water resistant case, so it can sit on deck.
It will also fit under the forward bunk(s).
It will also fit under the cockpit. The opening is 103cm x 58cm. The Aurora is 108cm long, but it’s easy to tilt it in, at least under the port cockpit hatch.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I will try to answer them. If you are interested in cost, you can see a lot of that information on Exit Carbon’s website…and make a quotation request. They will sell to you directly. 50% at order. 50% just before

delivery.


Pictures: (CLICK ON PICTURES TO ENLARGE)
1) A typical passerelle solution we've seen...and wanted to avoid
2) Passerelle and mounting bracket installed. First test.
3) Experimenting with a lift rope to the hand hold to keep the passerelle slightly off the ground. Sinks to ground when stepping on it
4) A closeup of the custom designed mounting bracket and protective swim step
5) Another shot experimenting with lift rope and guy
6 & 7) Storage possibilities
8) Showing how the seat, used as a step, is essential.
Attached Thumbnails
Passerelle0.jpg   Passerelle1.jpg   Paserelle2.jpg   Passerelle3.jpg   Passerelle6.jpg  

Passerelle7.jpg   passerelle8.jpg   Passerelle5.jpg  
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