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Old 07-25-2021, 07:59 AM   #41
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I correspond regularly with a former GL40 owner in the UK who told me this about the stock anchor...

"At anchor she is quite comfortable, the anchor supplied holds well. We have anchored over night a few times in local estuaries adjacent to large commercial ports without too much problem."
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Old 07-25-2021, 11:43 AM   #42
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My 33 came with the 20kg/44# Pool-type anchor with it's massively thick SS flukes close to 1/2" and no real points at the ends for penetration. I've had mixed results - particularly in the CA Channel Is. of Catalina and Santa Cruz that others with a plow had no troubles with. Sandy bottoms such as in Coho on the E side of Pt. Conception and San Simeon ~90nm further N, and several SF Bay spots, no problem.

I'm thinking of grinding the fluke ends top & bottom to much more of a point for better penetration...

The other anchoring problem is that a line bridle is essential to avoid chain-scarring the bow gelcoat as the boat saws back and forth in a breeze. Retrieving the anchor also even more so when the bow blows port, but the mate can use the thrusters to keep the chain off the bow with brief blips of bow-Stbd/stern-Port together.
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Old 07-27-2021, 08:28 AM   #43
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Thanks for the info ,I will post after my stay in our north channel
of Lake Huron, P.S. WE LOVE this boat.
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Old 07-27-2021, 09:08 PM   #44
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Thanks for the info ,I will post after my stay in our north channel
of Lake Huron, P.S. WE LOVE this boat.
Yep, the 40's are absolutely gorgeous! And a great layout. And twin diesels. In '19 we spent a week down in the Channel Is. of So. Cal. with our 14 year old granddaughter and a friend, both sleeping in the salon of the 33. But in the AM, it looked like a chimp cage with an empty super-sized bag of Cheeto's!

And three weeks recently with our daughter and hubby down to San Diego and back. They're both sailors, but found that the Stbd fill-in double was too small length-wise for both her 5'9 height and his 6' to work. They managed to cobble together a more comfortable double on the longer Port side using the settee backs in some way.

We still love the boat, though, and she's prob. our last of many over 50 years...
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Old 09-16-2021, 06:47 AM   #45
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Greenline 33 clutch slave replacement

Looking for instructions on replacing the slave cylinder on a 2014 Greenline 33. Can this repair be done with the boat in the water? What’s the best way to support the engine while gaining access to the clutch assembly? We have the VW 150 Hp Diesel engine.
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Old 09-16-2021, 10:14 AM   #46
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Hi Scott
I’m a new member and I’m not able to PM you.
I have a GL 33 with a VW diesel and would like to get a copy of the procedure instructions for replacing the clutch slave cylinder.
Thanks
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Old 09-17-2021, 06:17 AM   #47
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Hi Scott
I’m a new member and I’m not able to PM you.
I have a GL 33 with a VW diesel and would like to get a copy of the procedure instructions for replacing the clutch slave cylinder.
Thanks
Gschroff


Hi Gschroff,

I went through this more than once. My yard did the replacement the first time with the boat out of the water. The second time they did it, the boat was in the water.
My opinion is that it would be best to do this with the boat out of the water. This would also give you the opportunity to change the shaft bearing, which should be done every 5 years. Be sure to check the clutch plates too. If they are oily from the leaking slave cylinder, then it would probably be best to replace them as well -- while you have everything apart.

I have uploaded two documents here that might help you some.
One is about changing the electric motor…which touches on the slave cylinder.
The other is about bleeding the line going to the slave cylinder.

Some others on TF have gone through this slave cylinder replacement. Maybe they will chime in with something additional to contribute.

You can find some more discussion on it here:
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/...ons-52950.html
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/...ner-56996.html

I wish you the best of luck and getting by this obstacle so you can fully enjoy what your Greenline has to offer!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf GL33_Iskra generator replacement-AIZ_v2.pdf (3.72 MB, 3 views)
File Type: pdf GL33 bleeding clutch hyd_sys.pdf (617.4 KB, 0 views)
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Old 09-17-2021, 03:55 PM   #48
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Are there any design updates for the clutch to improve reliability?
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Old 09-18-2021, 04:57 AM   #49
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Are there any design updates for the clutch to improve reliability?

I think I have heard or read that there has been a re-design. But, when that occurred and whether it's a tweak or total re-design, I do not know. Perhaps somebody else on TF knows and will jump in here?


If there has been a substantial re-design, I would certainly be interested in retro-fitting the new solution into my old Greenline...if it were possible.


My boat will be at a Greenline dealer here in France over the winter for bottom work. I plan to ask them about this topic. I will come back to this thread with an answer, if I learn anything interesting.
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Old 09-18-2021, 10:42 AM   #50
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I think I have heard or read that there has been a re-design. But, when that occurred and whether it's a tweak or total re-design, I do not know. Perhaps somebody else on TF knows and will jump in here?


If there has been a substantial re-design, I would certainly be interested in retro-fitting the new solution into my old Greenline...if it were possible.


My boat will be at a Greenline dealer here in France over the winter for bottom work. I plan to ask them about this topic. I will come back to this thread with an answer, if I learn anything interesting.

I think the best way to find out is to see if there have been any part number changes. I'm assuming those parts are made by real manufacturers who have change control, tracking, and other such formalities, unlike most boat builders.
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Old 09-19-2021, 01:47 AM   #51
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I suspect this clutch slave system for this application is not a proper swap from the auto industry for which it was originally designed. I remember during my early driving days I was trained not to rest my foot on the clutch pedal even between shifts so as not to put pressure on the throughout bearing. This involved a totally mechanical linkage. Running our GL in electric mode this automobile clutch is continuously depressed. I imagine the bearing will develop more heat than it would if used intermittently as it was originally designed for momentary shifting of gears. I suspect that the seals of the slave cylinder are prone to premature failure from this heat exposure. I would think a proper redesign would be a slave cylinder specifically designed for this unique application. With the current design the failure rate is probably some function of time in electric mode. Our GL was a dealer demonstrator so spent most of its time in electric mode on harbor cruises .

Spending 4K to replace a $100 part that is likely to have a short lifespan is difficult. Could a more robust design eliminate the hydraulic component and employ old school lever arm and push rods?

To finish here I must say I really enjoy my GL 33. It’s great to be in anchorages for extended periods not running a generator and enjoying all the comforts of home. I do believe hybrids with solar are the future of boating.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:14 AM   #52
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To finish here I must say I really enjoy my GL 33. It’s great to be in anchorages for extended periods not running a generator and enjoying all the comforts of home. I do believe hybrids with solar are the future of boating.

This has come up a number of times as the most enjoyed aspect of a hybrid boat. Are there ways in which this is different from any other boat that has an inverter system that runs all the time, and a reasonably (and perhaps larger than typical) sized house battery bank?


I think I have this same capability on my past several boats, but maybe I'm missing something?
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Old 09-19-2021, 09:01 AM   #53
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Hi Scott C
I want to thank you for the service manuals you uploaded for me. They will be very helpful for me or the mechanic who makes the repair.

I’m interested in adjusting the idle speed of our VW diesel upwards. Our cold idle is 900 and it drops to 600 rpm when warm. If the Lithium battery is not fully charged the diesel will lugg while in gear and more power must be applied but this makes it difficult while attempting slow docking maneuvers. Our dealer said their mechanic was unable to adjust the idle to stay at 900. Just wondering if you’ve had any experience with this issue.
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Old 09-20-2021, 11:31 AM   #54
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Quote:
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This has come up a number of times as the most enjoyed aspect of a hybrid boat. Are there ways in which this is different from any other boat that has an inverter system that runs all the time, and a reasonably (and perhaps larger than typical) sized house battery bank?

No difference, except for the solar production.
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Old 09-20-2021, 11:48 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by Gschroff View Post
Hi Scott C
I want to thank you for the service manuals you uploaded for me. They will be very helpful for me or the mechanic who makes the repair.

I’m interested in adjusting the idle speed of our VW diesel upwards. Our cold idle is 900 and it drops to 600 rpm when warm. If the Lithium battery is not fully charged the diesel will lugg while in gear and more power must be applied but this makes it difficult while attempting slow docking maneuvers. Our dealer said their mechanic was unable to adjust the idle to stay at 900. Just wondering if you’ve had any experience with this issue.

I'll have to pay close attention to what my cold and warm idle numbers are and come back here. BUT...I think they are about the 900 & 600 you are experiencing. I know the "lugg" feeling you describe, but it has never been an issue for me. 99% of the time, I do docking maneuvers solely on electric. It's slow and gentle, with much less torque and lower RPM's (if desired). It's much more difficult to do damage from a throttle mistake. On the rare occasion I dock using the diesel, it's usually because it's in the middle of a 25+ knot blow and I need to do things faster and with more power. In this case, I'm not using the diesel much at idle either.

I find it difficult to believe that idle RPM can not be adjusted -- but that may well be the case if it's all electronically controlled. This is a topic I have no knowledge on.
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Old 09-28-2021, 01:17 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gschroff View Post
Hi Scott C
I want to thank you for the service manuals you uploaded for me. They will be very helpful for me or the mechanic who makes the repair.

I’m interested in adjusting the idle speed of our VW diesel upwards. Our cold idle is 900 and it drops to 600 rpm when warm. If the Lithium battery is not fully charged the diesel will lugg while in gear and more power must be applied but this makes it difficult while attempting slow docking maneuvers. Our dealer said their mechanic was unable to adjust the idle to stay at 900. Just wondering if you’ve had any experience with this issue.



Ok - now I have some real data for you.
Firstly, my GL33 has a VW Marine 165hp TDI.
Idle at start is 1200 RPM. After about one minute, it slows down to 900 RPM. When I put it in neutral after a few hours of running and battery fully charged, it still idles at 900 RPM.
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Old 09-28-2021, 05:21 PM   #57
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Thanks for that information Scott.
I need to increase my idle from 600 to 900 RPM. That was a fix Greenline advised some years ago. Our VW mechanic was able to increase the idle only while connected to his laptop. From some reason he could not save the new higher idle settings. I will need to locate the appropriate software and cable and try to do it myself. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

I would also like to bypass the relays for the solar panel cut in and out with the Victron solar controller that has been mentioned on this form. Hoping I would have more control as to not cycling to 100% while sitting in the slip unused for weeks at a time.
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Old 10-01-2021, 12:56 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gschroff View Post
Thanks for that information Scott.
I need to increase my idle from 600 to 900 RPM. That was a fix Greenline advised some years ago. Our VW mechanic was able to increase the idle only while connected to his laptop. From some reason he could not save the new higher idle settings. I will need to locate the appropriate software and cable and try to do it myself. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

I would also like to bypass the relays for the solar panel cut in and out with the Victron solar controller that has been mentioned on this form. Hoping I would have more control as to not cycling to 100% while sitting in the slip unused for weeks at a time.



Regarding the idle speed…

I was told somewhere along the line that the core engine is the same as what was used in VW Passats and that many parts, in a pinch, could be obtained from a VW auto dealer (though I have never tried this myself). Further, you may have noticed the brushed aluminum VW “Diagnose” panel at the helm. I have my yard perform a complete VW diagnostics run on the engine every year. For this, they borrow the diagnostics computer from the local VW dealer. My yard thinks this is overkill, but since I have only one engine, I like the peace-of-mind that comes with starting every season with a complete and successful diagnostics run. My point here, that may be of use to you, is that you might consider bringing in a mechanic from your local VW dealership to see if he can adjust the idle. Have him perform a diagnostic with his computer as well, while he’s there.

Regarding the solar controller…
I have a Victron MPPT 150/45. I replaced the original Outback Solar controller with this, at the suggestion of the factory, SVP Yachts, in Slovenia. I have been VERY satisfied with this. I’m not sure which Victron solar controller you have, but mine does not do any charging if the boat is at the slip, plugged into electric and the Victron Multi-Plus is in Float. If the boat were not plugged into shore power, the solar charger would not do anything until the voltage falls to below about 53.7 volts. This is all configurable via the VictonConnect app – so you should be able to make it behave as you wish.
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