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Old 07-23-2021, 07:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottC View Post
Hi PeterB,


After having to replace my anchor light unit twice due to corroded contacts, etc. I decided to go with something that had a COMPLETELY different design. So far, this is working out splendidly. There are no electrical connection parts that can suffer from salt water ingress. So, if you have to make the replacement, yet again, as I did, you might want to consider the below option. Also nice is that it's "fold-down" for when you need to clear a low bridge.

https://www.hellamarine.com/en/produ...p-compact.html

If rain/sea-spray gets through all the di-electric grease on the pole interior plug-in contacts, and the silicone sealant on all external possibilities I'll be surprised. The pole is removable by twisting the external collar which has a cam-like action, and a rubber plug for the hole.
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Old 07-24-2021, 02:33 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterB40 View Post
If rain/sea-spray gets through all the di-electric grease on the pole interior plug-in contacts, and the silicone sealant on all external possibilities I'll be surprised. The pole is removable by twisting the external collar which has a cam-like action, and a rubber plug for the hole.
Certainly sounds like an improvement on the original!!
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Old 07-24-2021, 12:00 PM   #23
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Certainly sounds like an improvement on the original!!

Actually, a drop-in for the old base/pole. But the 2-mile light is larger and disc-like with LED's rather than the little dome with weak incandescent light. And it would probably leak a bit without the additional sealing
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Old 07-24-2021, 08:45 PM   #24
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Did a FWD bilge crawl with steps removed, and found no T-connections from either diesel cooling or AC plumbing. The AC seems to have a dedicated thru-hull exit adjacent to what seems to be the bilge pump discharge to Stbd of the main thru-hull sump , though part of the run is hidden.

The electric motor/gen cooling source may be shared with the AC 110v water pump, but a lot is hidden by bundled hoses. The discharge is clearly above the WL through the overhanging hull "knuckle" at the port stern that you can see and hear.

I didn't open up the engine hatch, but recall no sort of T'ing off the exhaust elbow or or hose aft of it. And the below stock factory photo of the area shows nothing of the sort...Looks to me like like someone before you royally screwed things up for the sake of the water-lubed shaft seal. My Volvo Penta seal remains drip less. ('14 model)
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Old 07-26-2021, 12:51 PM   #25
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48v

Chris from Balmar here. Sorry to hear about your engine issues. We have two 48v alternators and an external MaxCharge regulator that may work on the D2-220, on their secondary alternator mount: https://balmar.net/96-series-48v-alternators/ The 60a has a really low (for 48 alts) turn on speed, so it could be potentially used to charge at anchor.

Chris

Quote:
Originally Posted by epowermarine View Post
There is a long story behind this, but I'm going to stick with the short story for now. My VW Marine engine is full of salt water, and I'm replacing it with a new D3 220hp. This will happen at my marina in Florida, and I'm guessing that this project has never before taken place in the US. I'd love to hear from anyone who has done this conversion in Europe or anywhere for that matter as I could use the help.

Instead of a sad story we are looking at this as a huge upgrade to our beloved Solmate, a 2011 model. We have decided to loose the Iskra hybrid functionality as it would add another $$$ to the amount that this little job will already cost, and the truth is we never use the emotor down here with all the stiff currents and boat traffic anyway. We will miss the 48v generator but I can do something with a 48v alternator or perhaps a DC/DC converter (figure that one out later).

The new Volvo has been on order for 2 months already, and I'm told it's going to be another month, who knows. Soon I will start the deconstruction of the VW with only 400 hours on her. I will definitely have some spare parts available if anyone is interested as many parts of the engine and hybrid system are in perfect shape.

Once done, the boat will have the little bit of extra power that we need for realistic trips down to the keys, to the Bahamas, and such. Really looking forward to being finished but there is so much work ahead of us to get there.

All for now, I plan to document as much as I can for future conversions. At some point everyone will have to repower so it could be a useful resource.
Todd
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Old 07-26-2021, 03:43 PM   #26
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Thanks for checking out your boat Peter. I guess it is possible that the former owner had the Tides Marine seal put in and added the T to provide a water source. You would not see the T unless you opened up the hatch, mine is literally right below the elbow slightly forward, I don't think you would see it in the picture you posted.

Another anomaly, I don't think I have the port stern outlet that you mention for your AC and Hybrid discharge. In that location I have a manual bilge pump but that is the only plumbing that I'm aware of.

Todd
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Old 07-26-2021, 04:27 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epowermarine View Post
Thanks for checking out your boat Peter. I guess it is possible that the former owner had the Tides Marine seal put in and added the T to provide a water source. You would not see the T unless you opened up the hatch, mine is literally right below the elbow slightly forward, I don't think you would see it in the picture you posted.

Another anomaly, I don't think I have the port stern outlet that you mention for your AC and Hybrid discharge. In that location I have a manual bilge pump but that is the only plumbing that I'm aware of.

Todd
That port stern outlet is only for the electric motor/gen in my boat, Todd. I checked with the AC running, and not discharging there or anywhere else above the WL on walk around the boat, so I figure it's the one seen to Stbd. of the main through-hulls sump behind the engine air intake ducting. along with poss. the main bilge pump discharge.
Peter
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Old 07-26-2021, 07:17 PM   #28
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Changing subject a bit, have anyone else had occasional diesel weeping from the port tank to sbd tank crossover tube valves? Right where they meet the tank? My port side one weeps in certain conditions. I spoke with Greenline about it and they acknowledged that they have seen it before and recommended some special epoxy for polypropylene. I've bought the stuff but have not tried to apply it yet.
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Old 07-27-2021, 02:35 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterB40 View Post
That port stern outlet is only for the electric motor/gen in my boat, Todd. I checked with the AC running, and not discharging there or anywhere else above the WL on walk around the boat, so I figure it's the one seen to Stbd. of the main through-hulls sump behind the engine air intake ducting. along with poss. the main bilge pump discharge.
Peter

On my 2010, the port stern, above-water discharge (under the "knuckle") is for the manual and electric bilge pumps ONLY. The through-hull discharge is for the hybrid cooling & A/C. There is a separate through-hull discharge for the whale grey water sump.


The picture below is from when my boat was new. Some of these seacocks are getting a bit stiff now. I may replace them before long and take the opportunity to install what I would call "more proper" through-hull fittings, having a larger "flange" for extra support against the hull.
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Old 09-16-2021, 07:51 AM   #30
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I’m a new member to this form. We have a 2014 Greenline 33
Hybrid with a VW 150 diesel. The clutch slave failed a few months after we purchased the dealers demonstrator. From this thread it seems that there might be a procedure manuel for replacing the slave cylinder. Advice and insights would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-14-2021, 05:45 PM   #31
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Hey its been a while since I've updated, but progress is being made. For those who have access I've posted some video's over on the FB GL33 group
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1329548370726108

-Basically old VW w/Hybrid system is out.
-New D3 220hp is placed, and somewhat wired and plumbed, but not mounted.
-We are fabricating some aluminum plate brackets that will bolt to the old VW mounting holes, then mount the D3 to the brackets.
-Aquadrive is being replaced with new Aquadrive and thrust bearing, custom length.
-getting the old thrust bearing off the shaft was quite an ordeal, major disassembly required
-went to replace drive shaft dripless seal and discovered a small amount of electrolysis on the driveshaft, so we dropped the rudder, pulled the shaft and it's at the Prop Shop for repair/replace.
- have a new Vetus waterlock muffler to replace the horrible old muffler, but have not placed it yet
-the dash is another yet-to-be-tackled project
-the throttle will need a custom mount


That is where we are now. The $$$ keep adding up every day but the entire propulsion system will be brand new. We can't wait.

Question for a GL33 non hybrid with the D3 220, what exact prop size came from the factory? Thanks
Todd
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