Two questions re: refrigeration use when cruising & Novakool specific ?

[capran]

When anchoring we often shut our inverter off at night. With a 12/110 volt fridge this is a huge at anchor power savings with the fridge slipping into the 12v mode. There is a separate breaker for both voltages. Our Nova K is into its 14th year and performing well. Boating in the PNW is pretty easy on a fridge though. Fish freezers, now that is the challenge for many.

LOL. last year the PNW was so remarkably dry, but not especially hot out in the islands. we'll see what this year brings. wish when it was so hot here several days ago we could have gotten out, but just not quite ready. Once the fridge guy gives his opinion, I guess ready or not, we'll head out the morning of the first.

 

[Helmsman]

Wow. very interesting. from my pic I can see that I have the 101N0500. and yet "refrigerator" is only on a breaker on the DC side, and when I turn off the DC side "refrigerator" toggle, it shuts off. I will post what the tech guy says tomorrow before cocktail hour. Very curious!

Will be interesting to hear what the tech has to say.

 

[rslifkin]

Just because it has the AC/DC module doesn't necessarily mean the AC power side of it is connected to anything.

 

[capran]

Just because it has the AC/DC module doesn't necessarily mean the AC power side of it is connected to anything.

I had not considered that. Hope the tech can help me understand what's going on. Although from talking to a few locals the last few days plus the forum, sounds like super hot weather might have something to do with it. We never had any issues, even 5 years in the Bahamas on our sailboat, although it did have a much smaller fridge. LOL

 

[ranger58sb]

Just because it has the AC/DC module doesn't necessarily mean the AC power side of it is connected to anything.

And it could just be plugged into an AC outlet in the galley that's on a breaker not specifically marked as for a fridge.

That might be easy to diagnose, given visibility behind the unit...

-Chris

 

[capran]

And it could just be plugged into an AC outlet in the galley that's on a breaker not specifically marked as for a fridge.

That might be easy to diagnose, given visibility behind the unit...

-Chris

all AC breakers are in the on position, unless there is an AC breaker without being connected to the panel that services an outlet behind the fridge.

 

[ranger58sb]

all AC breakers are in the on position, unless there is an AC breaker without being connected to the panel that services an outlet behind the fridge.

Another thought would be about a GFCI circuit.

But if you can see the fridge isn't plugged into an AC outlet... it doesn't rule out direct-to-AC wiring... that'd maybe be a hint, too.

-Chris

 

[Helmsman]

The L and N plugs are where the AC power is connected. That wire should have a 4 amp fuse. Usually coming from an outlet behind the fridge which then travels to an AC breaker. If the 4 amp fuse is blown, that would explain why there is no AC. The manual I attached previously shows both the AC/DC configuration, and the DC only configuration.

 

[capran]

The L and N plugs are where the AC power is connected. That wire should have a 4 amp fuse. Usually coming from an outlet behind the fridge which then travels to an AC breaker. If the 4 amp fuse is blown, that would explain why there is no AC. The manual I attached previously shows both the AC/DC configuration, and tge DC only configuration.

Interesting to see what happens with the tech. I'll post the results. all I see from the outside where it says 101N0500which is the identifier that says its an ac and dc unit. but the lettering on that same part says FACDCPT from the pic I posted.

 

[Helmsman]

Interesting to see what happens with the tech. I'll post the results. all I see from the outside where it says 101N0500which is the identifier that says its an ac and dc unit. but the lettering on that same part says FACDCPT from the pic I posted.

There are actually two parts. The picture I saw that you posted is the Danfoss compressor. The electric module is coupled to it on the left side of the picture but can be separated. That is the part that is labeled 101N0500. I can see why one would think it is all one part.

Anyway, I think your issue will be cleaning the dust odd of the coils or fins, making sure the fan is working, and possibly checking the AC connection, if there are wires hooked to L and N. We will see what your tech says. Good luck with it!

 

[capran]

There are actually two parts. The picture I saw that you posted is the Danfoss compressor. The electric module is coupled to it on the left side of the picture but can be separated. That is the part that is labeled 101N0500. I can see why one would think it is all one part.

Anyway, I think your issue will be cleaning the dust odd of the coils or fins, making sure the fan is working, and possibly checking the AC connection, if there are wires hooked to L and N. We will see what your tech says. Good luck with it!

in rechecking, it does look like it is wired for AC, but no breaker and since it stops working when i shut off the DC refrigerator side, seems logical to assume the AC side is not working. why no AC circuit breaker installed illudes me.

 

[capran]

Pretty interesting results from tech visit

First of all, thank you all for your input. It helped me narrow the focus of problem solving. So here's what I learned: It is an AC/DC unit, but the AC side was not plugged in to anything! You can see it in this pic on the left. nothing plugged into an outlet. we didn't have him pull the whole fridge out to see if there was a plug in the back, but have access to a plug next to fridge. not pretty, but it works. He said it wasn't necessary. because the 5 amp draw when running is fine, covered by the charger. but we have a charging BMT 203 that only monitors outgoing, not incoming amps, so looks like we are drawing down 100 AH a day using the DC fridge on shore power, when the charger is on. We did have him replace the fan for better egress of warm air, and in case thermostat was old and starting to misbehave, had a new one installed. In a day that you can barely get a response for service, I'm pretty glad we could get him out in 3 days. and he said to defrost if 1/4 inch frost on fridge, but also a design problem, that thermostat wire at back end so location not the best. And to expect when the boat is 89 degrees inside it's going to struggle for lack of insulation, but could add another fan inside to better circulate air. Another day! LOL

 

[capran]

oops heres pic

here's pic

 

[BruceK]

Followed this with interest and curiosity. Did the service guy connect it to AC or think it unecessary due to the DC system working so well?
Someone may know, is there a downside to battery life/function running 100A of charger replenished power through batts, day in day out, at the dock?

 

[capran]

Followed this with interest and curiosity. Did the service guy connect it to AC or think it unecessary due to the DC system working so well?
Someone may know, is there a downside to battery life/function running 100A of charger replenished power through batts, day in day out, at the dock?

When I broached the subject, he said clearly you are not connected to AC, there was no plug into that left side receptacle which comes from the top of the control module with the label L and N. but I bought an AC cord for $5 from him. (it was the only cheap thing of the day!!) He says may people don't bother with the AC side because the controllers often fail and with modern chargers, they can more than handle the DC draw if using only the DC refrigerator side. We don't often dock, maybe 3 or 4 times every summer, out cruising 2 months, but because if we do pull into a marina, and my BMV 702 is reading only the AH drawn from the batteries and not the AH being charged into the batteries, I want to get a better read on the batteries AH rather than interpreting amps from the volt readings. Going to save my AH for when I need them when out for a few weeks on the hook, and know the full marina power supplied is going toward getting the batteries charged up.

 

[rslifkin]

Personally, I'd work on fixing the BMV. Nothing should bypass the shunt for it, not even charging related wiring.

 

[ranger58sb]

Personally, I'd work on fixing the BMV. Nothing should bypass the shunt for it, not even charging related wiring.

Could well be his BMV works fine. It'll display a boatload of info, given the correct button pushes.

-Chris

 

[rslifkin]

Could well be his BMV works fine. It'll display a boatload of info, given the correct button pushes.

-Chris

It's possible, but if it's showing a draw-down of 100ah while plugged into shore power, I'd think the charger is bypassing the shunt.

 

[capran]

It's possible, but if it's showing a draw-down of 100ah while plugged into shore power, I'd think the charger is bypassing the shunt.

I totally agree. The BMV 702 HAS TO only be connected in such a way that it is not reading any charging related data (AH going into the battery from either shore power or alternator), and only reading the discharging data. (AH going out of the battery). Unfortunately, getting a technician out at this time of year is rare if not impossible. (been waiting over 2 months to get a radar guy out and still no show) so I'll have to make do with at least knowing the AH daily discharge rate for this cruising season.

 

[Seevee]

If everything has worked correctly in the past, it sounds like a refrigerator problem, maybe the thermostat or possibly it needs to be defrosted. From my limited experience, if it can reach desired temperature, it's unlikely to be the compressor. I'm not familiar with NovaKool. Are the evaporator coils (what make the cold inside) exposed? It's worth checking to make sure they and the air passageways are free of ice.

Ted

Good advice, a link to your new fridge install might be a good option.


My experience with Nova Kool was poor, hated the thing. Never kept the freezer stuff cold, and the main fridge part had hot and cold spots. However, I found support excellent. If you pulled it out, they'd talk you thru testing and stuff. (above my pay grade). However, I never changed the temp to conserve power...... had plenty.



I also used a Engle chest freezer for the stuff I wanted REALLY frozen and worked great.



I was planning to get a new fridge, but sold the boat and got a boat with an apartment fridge, which has worked flawlessly..... and if that fails, I have the next one picked out.

 

[Benchmark]

I spoke to the Nova Kool technical support staff, and they suggested replacing the door gasket, which helped a lot, as well as removing the drip tray under the evaporator inside the fridge, which helped a lot.



Remove it from its enclosure and give it all a good cleaning. They all struggle as the ambient temperatures climb into the high 80's.

 

[capran]

It just lacked a plug as the empty plug in on the left side shows. He did sell me a plug for only 5 bucks plus the service call and 1.25 hrs labor and the cost of a new fan and thermostat. We are out on our first night at anchor. Fridge is about 39 and freezer about 20. 75 degrees in the boat today. Will know what the overnight draw is in the morning. Hoping it's not more than 125 amps, as that could give us at least three nights without running the engine. Have two 820 AH Rolls 6 volt

 

[capran]

Wow. Great info. Our tech guy mentioned the bad design of drip tray but didnt say anything about removal. Did you order door gasket from novakool or where to buy. Great advice. Thanks

 

[O C Diver]

Good advice, a link to your new fridge install might be a good option.


My experience with Nova Kool was poor, hated the thing. Never kept the freezer stuff cold, and the main fridge part had hot and cold spots. However, I found support excellent. If you pulled it out, they'd talk you thru testing and stuff. (above my pay grade). However, I never changed the temp to conserve power...... had plenty.



I also used a Engle chest freezer for the stuff I wanted REALLY frozen and worked great.



I was planning to get a new fridge, but sold the boat and got a boat with an apartment fridge, which has worked flawlessly..... and if that fails, I have the next one picked out.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/my-new-apartment-refrigerator-41392.html

Ted

 

[Helmsman]

Wow. Great info. Our tech guy mentioned the bad design of drip tray but didnt say anything about removal. Did you order door gasket from novakool or where to buy. Great advice. Thanks

Keep the drip tray handy. You will need it when you defrost. Even with it, if the ice is thick enough, you will need to towel some of the water out or it may drip out onto the floor.



Good luck with your first trip!

 

[OldDan1943]

There aren't choices when it comes to smaller boat fridges

 

[Helmsman]

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s31/my-new-apartment-refrigerator-41392.html

Ted

Ted,



Thanks. I read through that set of posts. Looks like a great solution for the somewhat anemic refrigerators in the RV/Marine market. I assume the fridge is still providing good service after 4 years?

 

[koliver]

It just lacked a plug as the empty plug in on the left side shows. He did sell me a plug for only 5 bucks plus the service call and 1.25 hrs labor and the cost of a new fan and thermostat. We are out on our first night at anchor. Fridge is about 39 and freezer about 20. 75 degrees in the boat today. Will know what the overnight draw is in the morning. Hoping it's not more than 125 amps, as that could give us at least three nights without running the engine. Have two 820 AH Rolls 6 volt

In an earlier post you mentioned a 100 ah draw and that implied that it was over a 24hr period. Here you say 125 ah overnight. That sounds excessive, by an order of magnitude. That Danfoss unit should draw 3 amps while running, and once the fridge internal temp is down and the door is kept closed it shouldn't run more than 1/2 of the time, so overnight, say from 10 PM to 8AM, should be 15 ah overnight. Any accumulated DC usage higher than that would be a concern and you will need to address it. Others have stressed a fan over the evaporator, clear the accumulated dust out, do the door gasket, etc.
As for charging, a 130w solar panel is more than sufficient to put back the amps drawn by your fridge, especially where you are. You wouldn't need your genset except for other loads.

 

[Duetto]

we have a novacool side by side "large dorm" model. not sure of model, not on boat. it was new in 2016. in 2018 we had problems with it defrosting overnight when on anchor. i worked with novacool tech support (excellent). checking voltages from panel to fridge uncovered a corrroded connector. cleaned up and worked great for 4 years. last winter it again started self defrosting (at dock now). i replaced the controller with a new one which novacool told me had some fixes that might apply to us. ran like a champ all last winter at dock and anchor.

 

[Wayne]

NeverKool to NovaKool

'Lo All,
On our Albin, Celestial, we had a NovaKool freezer/refrigerator that could not keep ice frozen on a hot Florida day, and the refer, when set to the coldest setting was barely cool.


I installed two computer-type 12 V DC muffin fans to ventilate the area behind the refer. I mounted them directly on small teak grills (4"X 6"). One was mounted in the hallway at the top of the space behind the refer that extended out to the hallway, and the other in the hallway at the bottom of that space. I mounted a household type thermostat on the wall in the space just inside of the top grill, where it was easily accessible. I then connected the fans directly to the thermostat as they drew so little current. Power was supplied by the 12 V DC junction box behind the refer.


This system allowed the freezer to keep ice cream frozen on the hottest Florida days. We had to turn the control down to keep from freezing lettuce. It all worked very well until Hurricane Michael came along....