Another new start for Helmsman

[Doug_Snider]

Thanks for the reply. Please be patient with my confusion, but am interested.

I was wondering about 2, and now its 3.

I understand the Panoptix is the forward looking transducer. Check.

Can that not produce a simple depth reading for the MFD, eliminating the need for the basic transducer?

And what is it causing the need for some different dedicated transducer for an anchorage reading that the other 2 cannot do?

I guess the simple question is, why not just the Panoptix alone and call it day? What is the limitation leading to more?

We wanted a full time depth alert even when the MFD is powered off. The NEMA 2000 display can show other data on the network like battery status and wind with a sensor connected.

 

[Helmsman]

The transducer for the traditional sonar has a wide beam. The Panoptix is a narrow beam intended to show obstructions ahead. The sonar that is built into the MFD does some really amazing things like finding fish and bottom mapping. We went with the forward looking sonar after Scott told us about a 38E that hit a rock and sank. He said that forward looking sonar could have prevented the loss. If it keeps us off the rocks, it is money well spent. Groundings seem to be a frequent occurrence in our waters.

Doug,

One thing to keep in mind is that most of the forward looking transducers have been shown not to be very effective if you are running faster than two or three knots. Maybe they have fixed that, as the observation was made a few months ago. I think it has to do with the water flow towards the front of the boat. Of course, if you are in shallower water, with a lot of rocks, one probably won’t doing much faster than that. Sounds to me like a pretty good thought process for improved safety.

 

[FWT]

The PS51 would not cut it as the only transducer for a number of reasons. Reason one is it only shows 2 views for discriminating what is in front of you and not a true downward facing view. Second is because it looks forward only and is susceptible to water aeration and disturbances.

Paired with an additional transducer like a GTM51 you will get traditional, chirp, and side scan.

I have this exact setup on our boat

What is the advantage of side scan in a trawler?

 

[AdmiralS]

What is the advantage of side scan in a trawler?

Treasure hunting?

 

[Tom-Jill-Lilly]

Dingys and power cords - what to do?

Hi everyone, we meet with Scott and Gary late last week in an attempt do a final on our options. We have to sign off tomorrow so we can go focus on electronics (leaning to garmin), Tender and canvases.

Questions on Tender and power location..

POWER – I saw one discussion on batteries in this forum - There was a bit of discussions regarding power management for my 4-days-on-the-hook-without-a-generator-in-PNW-passages-with-cloudy-days targeted scenario. We ended up at needing 4.2 house AGMs and two solar panels in accordance with my modeling etc (many models and what-ifs) with no generator. So I added a 5th to fill the bank.

TENDER - I went back and read what appears to be open questions... Dingy on back or top? I went to the Bellingham to meet with Bullfrog builder as well as a shop selling AB and Achilles. We have decided for the 750# crane and put the tender on top to get it out of the view of the stern. Even thought Lilly (our 4 YO Lab) will want to go to shore a lot. I would assume the tender goes on top for long and/or open passages and towed for days among the inside passages.
So the application would be:
1) dingy on top, less than 12’, lighter the better
2) used for cruising late spring to fall 3 months on top and dropped and dragged in salt water
3) exploring hitting many beaches
4) Needs to be large enough for downrigger (1) and/or pot puller, 20 hp+
5) Possibly used as a dingy for running back and forth between Henry Island and Roche (beach to dock) and sits in the water at docks.
I was leaning towards the Bullfrog (Plastic) or an Aluminum RIB application due to the fact I am beaching it often. Aluminum is also lighter weight. What was interesting is the seller of AB and Achilles strongly suggested in going with the heavier fiberglass hull with bow guard even though I am beaching the boat a lot. He took me into his shop and showed three dings where the tubes separated from the AL hull because they were left in saltwater a lot. Even with Zincs the aluminum will corrode (I can attest with my AL Lund) and get white chalky corrosion and the tubes will separate from the Aluminum hull. Im not sure if he was having a bad corrosion day, but he was adamant to go fiberglass.
So I know one of us is going with a whaly (similar to Bullfrog) and others have Ribs. Does anyone has the experiences with Al corrosion (if in saltwater a lot) and concerns running glass up on beaches?
Lastly on the ding, does anyone have a great idea how to store gas for the dingy on a 38E? I need an additional 5 gallons for long cruises/fishing. It wont fit underneath the seating on the bridge. Note having Scott and a vent in that storage area just in case I need to somehow store fuel there.

POWER CORD – I saw a bit of discussion on the location of the shoreline power. We elected to connect to the stern because I thought the power cord would be in the way (sticking out of the wall) if connected to the Helm area. Granted, we’d be typically bow first into docks (just is a bit easy to back out than in).
So, the question is, which are you (stern or pilot house) and why?

Thanks, Tom

 

[AdmiralS]

Hi everyone, we meet with Scott and Gary late last week in an attempt do a final on our options. We have to sign off tomorrow so we can go focus on electronics (leaning to garmin), Tender and canvases.



Questions on Tender and power location..



POWER – I saw one discussion on batteries in this forum - There was a bit of discussions regarding power management for my 4-days-on-the-hook-without-a-generator-in-PNW-passages-with-cloudy-days targeted scenario. We ended up at needing 4.2 house AGMs and two solar panels in accordance with my modeling etc (many models and what-ifs) with no generator. So I added a 5th to fill the bank.



TENDER - I went back and read what appears to be open questions... Dingy on back or top? I went to the Bellingham to meet with Bullfrog builder as well as a shop selling AB and Achilles. We have decided for the 750# crane and put the tender on top to get it out of the view of the stern. Even thought Lilly (our 4 YO Lab) will want to go to shore a lot. I would assume the tender goes on top for long and/or open passages and towed for days among the inside passages.

So the application would be:

1) dingy on top, less than 12’, lighter the better

2) used for cruising late spring to fall 3 months on top and dropped and dragged in salt water

3) exploring hitting many beaches

4) Needs to be large enough for downrigger (1) and/or pot puller, 20 hp+

5) Possibly used as a dingy for running back and forth between Henry Island and Roche (beach to dock) and sits in the water at docks.

I was leaning towards the Bullfrog (Plastic) or an Aluminum RIB application due to the fact I am beaching it often. Aluminum is also lighter weight. What was interesting is the seller of AB and Achilles strongly suggested in going with the heavier fiberglass hull with bow guard even though I am beaching the boat a lot. He took me into his shop and showed three dings where the tubes separated from the AL hull because they were left in saltwater a lot. Even with Zincs the aluminum will corrode (I can attest with my AL Lund) and get white chalky corrosion and the tubes will separate from the Aluminum hull. Im not sure if he was having a bad corrosion day, but he was adamant to go fiberglass.

So I know one of us is going with a whaly (similar to Bullfrog) and others have Ribs. Does anyone has the experiences with Al corrosion (if in saltwater a lot) and concerns running glass up on beaches?

Lastly on the ding, does anyone have a great idea how to store gas for the dingy on a 38E? I need an additional 5 gallons for long cruises/fishing. It wont fit underneath the seating on the bridge. Note having Scott and a vent in that storage area just in case I need to somehow store fuel there.



POWER CORD – I saw a bit of discussion on the location of the shoreline power. We elected to connect to the stern because I thought the power cord would be in the way (sticking out of the wall) if connected to the Helm area. Granted, we’d be typically bow first into docks (just is a bit easy to back out than in).

So, the question is, which are you (stern or pilot house) and why?



Thanks, Tom

You have the option for both with a selector switch.

We are 43 #6 and regret not getting this option although it isn't too difficult to add.

Would strongly recommend getting both to give you flexibility down the road.

We have had a handful of slips that we could only bow into and I usually don't even bother plugging in because of our batteries and solar. Only if we need it for the AC.

 

[Helmsman]

Hi everyone, we meet with Scott and Gary late last week in an attempt do a final on our options. We have to sign off tomorrow so we can go focus on electronics (leaning to garmin), Tender and canvases.

Questions on Tender and power location..

POWER – I saw one discussion on batteries in this forum - There was a bit of discussions regarding power management for my 4-days-on-the-hook-without-a-generator-in-PNW-passages-with-cloudy-days targeted scenario. We ended up at needing 4.2 house AGMs and two solar panels in accordance with my modeling etc (many models and what-ifs) with no generator. So I added a 5th to fill the bank.

TENDER - I went back and read what appears to be open questions... Dingy on back or top? I went to the Bellingham to meet with Bullfrog builder as well as a shop selling AB and Achilles. We have decided for the 750# crane and put the tender on top to get it out of the view of the stern. Even thought Lilly (our 4 YO Lab) will want to go to shore a lot. I would assume the tender goes on top for long and/or open passages and towed for days among the inside passages.
So the application would be:
1) dingy on top, less than 12’, lighter the better
2) used for cruising late spring to fall 3 months on top and dropped and dragged in salt water
3) exploring hitting many beaches
4) Needs to be large enough for downrigger (1) and/or pot puller, 20 hp+
5) Possibly used as a dingy for running back and forth between Henry Island and Roche (beach to dock) and sits in the water at docks.
I was leaning towards the Bullfrog (Plastic) or an Aluminum RIB application due to the fact I am beaching it often. Aluminum is also lighter weight. What was interesting is the seller of AB and Achilles strongly suggested in going with the heavier fiberglass hull with bow guard even though I am beaching the boat a lot. He took me into his shop and showed three dings where the tubes separated from the AL hull because they were left in saltwater a lot. Even with Zincs the aluminum will corrode (I can attest with my AL Lund) and get white chalky corrosion and the tubes will separate from the Aluminum hull. Im not sure if he was having a bad corrosion day, but he was adamant to go fiberglass.
So I know one of us is going with a whaly (similar to Bullfrog) and others have Ribs. Does anyone has the experiences with Al corrosion (if in saltwater a lot) and concerns running glass up on beaches?
Lastly on the ding, does anyone have a great idea how to store gas for the dingy on a 38E? I need an additional 5 gallons for long cruises/fishing. It wont fit underneath the seating on the bridge. Note having Scott and a vent in that storage area just in case I need to somehow store fuel there.

POWER CORD – I saw a bit of discussion on the location of the shoreline power. We elected to connect to the stern because I thought the power cord would be in the way (sticking out of the wall) if connected to the Helm area. Granted, we’d be typically bow first into docks (just is a bit easy to back out than in).
So, the question is, which are you (stern or pilot house) and why?

Thanks, Tom

Well though out strategy, Tom. I will address the stern cord placement we opted for. We are putting the power cords on the inside of the cockpit towards the port side. Our home port pedestal is located there on the port side. So, for the times we aren’t cruising it is the best spot for us. We opted for inside the cockpit wall to keep the weather and sun off of it. We have a covered dock and the stern faces south. The weather tends to come from there as does the sun. The final thought is that we tend to back into slips when traveling. We will carry both 25 foot and 50 foot cords on our trips.

 

[Doug_Snider]

Hi everyone, we meet with Scott and Gary late last week in an attempt do a final on our options. We have to sign off tomorrow so we can go focus on electronics (leaning to garmin), Tender and canvases.

Questions on Tender and power location..

So, the question is, which are you (stern or pilot house) and why?

Thanks, Tom

Power:
We maybe did overkill on power. Generator, solar panels and five AGM batteries. We went all electric in the galley and our old boat never had enough capacity while on the hook.

Tender:
We plan to put a light inflatable on the swim step with snap davits. We like being able to deploy it quickly and to have it clipped to the swim step for boarding and unboarding. We'll use a simple block and tackle to raise and lower it. We don't do a lot of exploring in the dinghy and propel it with a 3.0 HP Torqueedo. (Another reason for all the electrical capacity) Our boat deck will be our toy deck for our two Hobie pedal kayaks, my mountain bike and my wife's recumbent tricycle. We went with the pipe hoist to get them up there.

Power cord:
We normally dock bow in so went went with the connection near the starboard pilot house door. That works for stern-in with the same length of cord. A Helmsman 38 owner in our marina strongly suggested that since he has to use an extension cord.

 

[Doug_Snider]

Doug,

One thing to keep in mind is that most of the forward looking transducers have been shown not to be very effective if you are running faster than two or three knots. Maybe they have fixed that, as the observation was made a few months ago. I think it has to do with the water flow towards the front of the boat. Of course, if you are in shallower water, with a lot of rocks, one probably won’t doing much faster than that. Sounds to me like a pretty good thought process for improved safety.

Garmin says their forward scan sonar works up to 8 knots. Our use will be feeling our way at an anchorages at much slower speeds. I like the idea of having a complete picture of bottom conditions in many situations. The amount of water under your hull at any given moment is not the whole story and can be misleading. I came across this article makes a pretty persuasive case for the feature.

https://oceansailormagazine.com/forward-looking-sonars/

 

[Helmsman]

Garmin says their forward scan sonar works up to 8 knots. Our use will be feeling our way at an anchorages at much slower speeds. I like the idea of having a complete picture of bottom conditions in many situations. The amount of water under your hull at any given moment is not the whole story and can be misleading. I came across this article makes a pretty persuasive case for the feature.

https://oceansailormagazine.com/forward-looking-sonars/

Thanks! The article below gives a real world example of a damaged Panoptix. The comments below the article are illuminating also.



https://panbo.com/debris-takes-out-garmin-panoptix-fls-transducer-boat-still-floats/

May be a bigger problem in my home waters than yours. The river systems can create issues after rains. I have pulled fairly large trees off my boat and anchor that I wouldn't want snagging on the

 

[BandB]

Garmin says their forward scan sonar works up to 8 knots. Our use will be feeling our way at an anchorages at much slower speeds. I like the idea of having a complete picture of bottom conditions in many situations. The amount of water under your hull at any given moment is not the whole story and can be misleading. I came across this article makes a pretty persuasive case for the feature.

https://oceansailormagazine.com/forward-looking-sonars/

That would be our experience with the Garmin forward scan. Very useful when searching and checking out areas. Navico's is comparable (Simrad, B&G). The key is depth to speed. For instance, at 8:1 if you're only in 5' of water, your scanner will only reach 40' ahead. Echopilot has a 20 to 1 ratio and in other ways is superior. However, the value of sonar isn't in cruising. It's in checking an area. Great for a new anchorage or even marina and the Garmin handles all that well. I can think of a couple of times on our loop that it more than paid for itself. Once in getting to a marina, another time when the marina tried to get us to dock on the far side and we scanned and told them no. They argued the depth with us. We said they were wrong and told them to take a pole over there. They were furious with us for saying no and we were going to leave but they let us dock elsewhere. Then after we docked we walked over with them. What they had claimed was 6' was actually 3'. The other time it was useful was a marina had moved their docks around. We showed an old concrete pile but now didn't know where it was. Found it and avoided it.

The top forward scan is still Farsounder and they're used mainly commercially. Their top unit, the Argos 1000, has a range of over 1/2 nm at 25 knots.

The key is to recognize where and how they will work and in those situations you'll be very glad you have it.

 

[Nancy n Larry]

Please keep all the great info coming! Quite a learning experience!

 

[Tom-Jill-Lilly]

Power:
We maybe did overkill on power. Generator, solar panels and five AGM batteries. We went all electric in the galley and our old boat never had enough capacity while on the hook.

Tender:
We plan to put a light inflatable on the swim step with snap davits. We like being able to deploy it quickly and to have it clipped to the swim step for boarding and unboarding. We'll use a simple block and tackle to raise and lower it. We don't do a lot of exploring in the dinghy and propel it with a 3.0 HP Torqueedo. (Another reason for all the electrical capacity) Our boat deck will be our toy deck for our two Hobie pedal kayaks, my mountain bike and my wife's recumbent tricycle. We went with the pipe hoist to get them up there.

Power cord:
We normally dock bow in so went went with the connection near the starboard pilot house door. That works for stern-in with the same length of cord. A Helmsman 38 owner in our marina strongly suggested that since he has to use an extension cord.

Hi Doug. So can you confirm with the plug at the pilot helm door, the cord/plug does not stick out and become an issue? That was the reason, we moved to the stern. If not a big deal, I'd prefer not using an extension when bow in, as I've had problems on getting a good connection etc.

 

[Two Truths]

Hi Doug. So can you confirm with the plug at the pilot helm door, the cord/plug does not stick out and become an issue? That was the reason, we moved to the stern. If not a big deal, I'd prefer not using an extension when bow in, as I've had problems on getting a good connection etc.

I wish mine was at the pilot helm door. And I can't imagine an issue, since you are only using shore power when tied to a dock, in which case it is MUCH easier and more convenient getting on and off from the cockpit.

 

[FWT]

Thanks! The article below gives a real world example of a damaged Panoptix. The comments below the article are illuminating also.



https://panbo.com/debris-takes-out-garmin-panoptix-fls-transducer-boat-still-floats/

May be a bigger problem in my home waters than yours. The river systems can create issues after rains. I have pulled fairly large trees off my boat and anchor that I wouldn't want snagging on the

These forward scanning transducers can be installed with a plastic fairing housing around the shaft, for protection. The article isn't clear, but it appears they didn't have that.

 

[Doug_Snider]

I need to verify exactly where the shore power connection will be relative to the pilot house door and how far above the deck. On our previous boat, we always had to step over the cord on the way to the bow with very little side deck. I've tried to imagine all the possible scenarios for the location of the dock power pedestal relative to the shore power connection.

Here's a picture of another 38E in our marina with the connection at the starboard pilot house door. (Color photoshopped to our selected hull color)

 

[PattiS]

There are currently 2 38E’s in our marina one with the shore power hookup at the pilot house and the other at the stern. Boat boats dock bow in. We had noticed the awkwardness of the stern hookup even before we spoke with the owner and were already leaning towards the pilot house hookup before we spoke with owner with the stern hookup configuration.

 

[FWT]

Arguments against forward scanning that hinge on being ineffective at speed (turbulence, and insufficient reaction time) have an offset: not having one at all means you still don't have one at speed. Nor in slowly picking your way into an anchorage or marina. It seems one needs to understand it has limitations and making the decision knowing that. Great info in this dialog.

 

[Helmsman]

These forward scanning transducers can be installed with a plastic fairing housing around the shaft, for protection. The article isn't clear, but it appears they didn't have that.

No, they did not have a fairing block. The optimum solution would be for someone to create an effective in hull forward looking sonar.

 

[FWT]

No, they did not have a fairing block. The optimum solution would be for someone to create an effective in hull forward looking sonar.

Indeed. Ideal. That would seem to require mounting along the bowstem below the waterline. The place most likely to have the thickest layup of glass on the boat, making it harder to work.

 

[Tom-Jill-Lilly]

power cord forward and Victron is in town

Okay final final.. Power cord going forward. Thanks everyone on helping on our last option.

If I find it a nuisance, I found this right angle adapter (yes another connection). Maybe I can talk the, into make a 50 right angle cord. Marinco 30A Right Angle Cordset Shore Power Adapter (wholesalemarine.com)

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/marinco-30a-right-angle-cordset-shore-power-adapter/

And for you electronic fans.. At the risk of starting another topic.. our vessel, hull 51, will be getting a Victron inverter and a GX controller 50 but need to figure out if a 7” screen will fit in the overhead.

I was in Fisheries last week and they have Victron coming in for training and demos.. I relied this to Scott and he is sending someone. I would go, but cant.. if anyone goes, it’d be good to hear back. I would like the separate screen to show battery conditions, in/out amps, solar input, batt temps, engine room temp, freezer temps (might do something separate there), and remote alarms via cell phone such as bilge operations.
You can sign up here.

Victron Energy North America Training Tour - Seattle, WA Registration, Tue, Oct 5, 2021 at 8:30 AM | Eventbrite

https://www.eventbrite.nl/e/victron...ing-tour-seattle-wa-registration-163015101557

 

[Helmsman]

Okay final final.. Power cord going forward. Thanks everyone on helping on our last option.

If I find it a nuisance, I found this right angle adapter (yes another connection). Maybe I can talk the, into make a 50 right angle cord. Marinco 30A Right Angle Cordset Shore Power Adapter (wholesalemarine.com)

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/marinco-30a-right-angle-cordset-shore-power-adapter/

And for you electronic fans.. At the risk of starting another topic.. our vessel, hull 51, will be getting a Victron inverter and a GX controller 50 but need to figure out if a 7” screen will fit in the overhead.

I was in Fisheries last week and they have Victron coming in for training and demos.. I relied this to Scott and he is sending someone. I would go, but cant.. if anyone goes, it’d be good to hear back. I would like the separate screen to show battery conditions, in/out amps, solar input, batt temps, engine room temp, freezer temps (might do something separate there), and remote alarms via cell phone such as bilge operations.
You can sign up here.

Victron Energy North America Training Tour - Seattle, WA Registration, Tue, Oct 5, 2021 at 8:30 AM | Eventbrite

https://www.eventbrite.nl/e/victron...ing-tour-seattle-wa-registration-163015101557

Which Victron inverter are you putting in? Victron is leading the charge on integrating reporting into their systems. They have come up with some good ideas in the last couple of years.

 

[Tom-Jill-Lilly]

Victron at Fisheries tomorrow

Which Victron inverter are you putting in? Victron is leading the charge on integrating reporting into their systems. They have come up with some good ideas in the last couple of years.

This is the model: https://www.fisheriessupply.com/vic...inverter-charger-12-3000-24-3000/pmp123021102

Here’s a spec sheet: https://www.victronenergy.com/uploa...inverter-charger_2kVA-and-3kVA-120V-US-EN.pdf


Victron controller: Victron Energy BPP900450100 | Fisheries Supply
Cerbo GX - Victron Energy
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/victron-energy-cerbo-gx-panels-and-system-monitoring/bpp900450100

Instantly monitor the battery state of charge, power consumption, power harvest from PV, generator (if I had one), and mains, or check tank levels and temperature measurements. Easily control the shore power input current limit, (auto)start/stop generator(s) or change any setting to optimize the system.

GX Touch 50 & GX Touch 70 - Victron Energy
https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/gx-touch-50
The GX Touch 50 and GX Touch 70 are display accessories for our Cerbo GX. The five inch and seven inch touch screen displays give an instant overview of your system and allow to adjust settings in the blink of an eye

 

[rslifkin]

On the Victron gear, I'm just wrapping up my first full season since I put in a bunch of their stuff and so far, I'm quite happy with it. I've got a Multiplus 12/2000/80, 2x 100/30 MPPTs, Smartshunt, Cerbo GX and a GX Touch 50. My only complaint is that the charge algorithm on the Multiplus could use a couple of improvements to make it as good as the one on the MPPTs, but other than that, the stuff does everything I want and in general, it just works.

 

[twistedtree]

Probably overkill but I had two helms and the the space (and wanted the transducer to stay on the nmea 2000 network and didn’t need forward sonar - not convinced it’s limitations make it useful- and didn’t need my transducer for fish.

The big differentiators for me were Furuno’s NXT radar compared to others and the satellite compass.

TZT19F (x2)
DRS6ANXT/4 Radar
FA50 Class B AIS Transceiver
NAVPILOT 711C Autopilot
FI-70 Displays (x4)
TZT16F (x2) flybridge helm
GP330B GPS Receiver
SCX20 Sat compass
DST810L Smartducer

Looks like an excellent system.


So just the DST8100L, and no transducer for the fish finder that's built into the TZT? I don't fish, but still find a full function fish finder super helpful for cruising. It's great to see the depth trend and makeup of the bottom, and Furuno's bottom determination is pretty helpful when anchoring. It's not 100% accurate, but much better than a wild-ass guess. So to me, it's worth the couple hundred $$ to install a transducer for it, in addition to your DST. It also gives some backup, plus the DSTs can be quite unreliable.


Is performance Marine doing the work?

 

[Helmsman]

Probably overkill but I had two helms and the the space (and wanted the transducer to stay on the nmea 2000 network and didn’t need forward sonar - not convinced it’s limitations make it useful- and didn’t need my transducer for fish.

The big differentiators for me were Furuno’s NXT radar compared to others and the satellite compass.

TZT19F (x2)
DRS6ANXT/4 Radar
FA50 Class B AIS Transceiver
NAVPILOT 711C Autopilot
FI-70 Displays (x4)
TZT16F (x2) flybridge helm
GP330B GPS Receiver
SCX20 Sat compass
DST810L Smartducer

Edit: Forgot you are putting the package on a 55 footer.

On the Furuno forum I had a conversation with a moderator (Johnny Electron screen name). He told me that either the 711c or the NP300 would work on a 38E with the caveat that you would need to add a FAP-6112 rudder unit to the 300 order. The advantage to the 300 is that there is a remote for the AP, which may be useable on the other helm. The advantage to the 711c is that it will support a larger pump (HRP17-12). The disadvantage to the larger pump HRP17-12 is that it may not work well with steering system and also will pull more amperage than the recommended pump. He recommended the Octopus 16-12 pump for me.

Do you know which pump you will have?

 

[Tom-Jill-Lilly]

Who's 38 hull is in the china molds?

Does anyone know which hull number is getting laid up?

Thanks, Tom

 

[Doug_Snider]

Does anyone know which hull number is getting laid up?

Thanks, Tom

It’s hull 49, Helmsman’s on TF. We thought ours would be in the mold by now but, per Scott this morning, they won’t start ours Hull 50, for at least another week.

 

[Tom-Jill-Lilly]

Cool. Lucky Helmsman. Looks like ours (51) will be starting in Nov.

 

[bowball]

Looks like an excellent system.


So just the DST8100L, and no transducer for the fish finder that's built into the TZT? I don't fish, but still find a full function fish finder super helpful for cruising. It's great to see the depth trend and makeup of the bottom, and Furuno's bottom determination is pretty helpful when anchoring. It's not 100% accurate, but much better than a wild-ass guess. So to me, it's worth the couple hundred $$ to install a transducer for it, in addition to your DST. It also gives some backup, plus the DSTs can be quite unreliable.


Is performance Marine doing the work?

Now I'm thinking about adding Furuno's 3d side scan sonar based on this1

DFF3D which generates a 120 degree port and starboard chart, as a Personal Bathymetric Generator. https://furunousa.com/en/products/dff3d

Not forward looking, but within a pass it scans the bottom structure,and saves it for future use on the charts too. Moorages quickly mapped for any low spots or rocks.

Seems a lot for just this use, but the charts are amazing.