Winterizing Question

[MacDuff]

I have a Volvo Penta TAMD40B diesel. It is stored In New Hampshire where the temps can get low. Last winter (my first with this boat), I flushed out the raw water and replaced it with the pink stuff as I have done with smaller diesels. I didn't drain or change the 50-50 antifreeze mixture. Is this something I should do?

 

[DavidM]

Yes, but also do the potable water system, the head, the air conditioner's raw water system, any raw/fresh water wash down system and the generator.

David

 

[angus99]

Yes, but also do the potable water system, the head, the air conditioner's raw water system, any raw/fresh water wash down system and the generator.

David

Why change the 50/50 for winter?

 

[jleonard]

[QUOTEI didn't drain or change the 50-50 antifreeze mixture. Is this something I should do? ][/QUOTE]

50-50 is good to -34 F so you should be fine. But best to give it a check to make sure you are 50-50.

 

[DavidM]

Why change the 50/50 for winter?

You are correct. I mistakenly replied "yes" to the question of doing the coolant system.

David

 

[angus99]

You are correct. I mistakenly replied "yes" to the question of doing the coolant system.

David

I hoped that was the case. I’m starting to winterize Stella today and thought maybe I was missing something. . The comment to check the actual concentration is a good one.

 

[HeadMistress]

Yes, but also do the potable water system, the head, the air conditioner's raw water system, any raw/fresh water wash down system and the generator. David

SANITATION SYSTEM
Holding tank should be pumped out and THOROUGHLY rinsed out before winterizing the toilet. If the toilet uses sea water, just flushing antifreeze through the bowl will not protect the intake line, the toilet pump or the bowl...it'll only go out the discharge to the tank. Disconnect the flush water inlet hose from the thru-hull (might be a good idea to close the seacock first if the boat is still in the water) and stick it into a jug of non-toxic potable antifreeze. Flush the toilet to run it through the entire system. If the toilet uses onboard pressurized fresh water, winterizing the fresh water system also winterizes the toilet...winterize the tank by flushing the antifreeze down the toilet. Follow mfr's instructions--found in the owners manual-to winterize any treatment device (Lectra/San, ElectroSan, PuraSan).


FRESH WATER SYSTEM
1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets).

2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of getting all the water out of it.

3.Do NOT put antifreeze in the water heater. Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together to bypass it. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores.

4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system.

As an alternative to antifreeze, some owners prefer to use an air compressor to blow all the water out of the plumbing. This does require disconnecting some fittings in low places where water can pool.

(All this is in my book, btw..the title in my signature is the link to it)

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

 

[Comodave]

I had to change the coolant in my engines this year because one of the only tested to -10 degrees. I didn't know how old it was so I changed both engine coolant and now have a baseline as to how old it is.

To winterize my seawater flush heads I took an outboard flushing muff and cut off the side with the garden hose fitting. I put a hose from a 5 gallon bucket and hook it to the muff. Put the bucket above the through hull and hold the muff up against the through hull and flush the head until the antifreeze comes into the head. This saves unhooking the hose from the seacock which is very difficult to do in my boat.

 

[kchace]

I have a Volvo Penta TAMD40B diesel. It is stored In New Hampshire where the temps can get low. Last winter (my first with this boat), I flushed out the raw water and replaced it with the pink stuff as I have done with smaller diesels. I didn't drain or change the 50-50 antifreeze mixture. Is this something I should do?

I would recommend planning for at least -10F and make sure you have a decent margin beyond that. You don't need to drain or change the engine antifreeze, but it definitely should be checked. A small internal heat exchanger leak (which could go undetected) could exchange some of the antifreeze for seawater which would most definitely lower your freeze protection. Just make sure to check on the engine, and not at a remote reservoir.

Ken

 

[HeadMistress]

To winterize my seawater flush heads I took an outboard flushing muff.....This saves unhooking the hose from the seacock which is very difficult to do in my boat.

For future winterizing... You appear to be creative enough to figure out how to tee a couple of feet of hose into the head sink drain line with y-valves (small ones) at each end. That would let you just pour antifreeze down the sink to winterize the toilet. Would have the added advantage of providing a way to rinse the sea water out of the system before the boat will sit....just fill the sink with clean fresh water and open the y-valves to the toilet.

Even easier if your head sink drain thru-hull is below the waterline (common on sailboats, not so common on power boats)...you'd simply re-route the toilet intake line to tee in the sink drain line below the waterline. Flush normally using sea water, just close the seacock and run a sinkful of clean water through the toilet to rinse out the sea water OR add antifreeze.

Just an idea....

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

 

[boathealer]

To winterize my seawater flush heads I took an outboard flushing muff.....This saves unhooking the hose from the seacock which is very difficult to do in my boat.

For future winterizing... You appear to be creative enough to figure out how to tee a couple of feet of hose into the head sink drain line with y-valves (small ones) at each end. That would let you just pour antifreeze down the sink to winterize the toilet. Would have the added advantage of providing a way to rinse the sea water out of the system before the boat will sit....just fill the sink with clean fresh water and open the y-valves to the toilet.

Even easier if your head sink drain thru-hull is below the waterline (common on sailboats, not so common on power boats)...you'd simply re-route the toilet intake line to tee in the sink drain line below the waterline. Flush normally using sea water, just close the seacock and run a sinkful of clean water through the toilet to rinse out the sea water OR add antifreeze.

Just an idea....

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

Nice!
Anything that makes winterizing easier makes for an increased likelihood that it will get performed!

 

[Comodave]

Peggy nice idea, but when I need to replace the intake hose on the heads, I am going to replace the heads with Marine Elegance ones. I don't see how I would ever be able to work on the intake hoses without major surgery with a sawsall first... I will just remove the intake hoses from the seacock and cap the seacocks. Then when I winterize the fresh water system I can do the heads at the same time.

 

[Bacchus]

Also be sure to open all thru hull valves after haul out to ensure no water remains in the ball cavity.

 

[C lectric]

I didn't drain or change the 50-50 antifreeze mixture. Is this something I should do?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As long as the A.F. coolant is 50/50 then no. Just be sure it is 50/50 by testing it. Unless it is time to change it by years.

 

[MacDuff]

Great stuff people! Thanks.

 

[North Baltic sea]

I hoped that was the case. I’m starting to winterize Stella today and thought maybe I was missing something. . The comment to check the actual concentration is a good one.

Winterize list, this link.

http://www.sentoa.org/WINTERIZING%20PROCEDURES%20FOR%
20BOATS.pdf
NBs

 

[MacDuff]

No link.

 

[North Baltic sea]

No link.

http://www.sentoa.org/WINTERIZING PROCEDURES FOR BOATS.pdf

NBs

 

[Cigatoo]

I have a Volvo Penta TAMD40B diesel. It is stored In New Hampshire where the temps can get low. Last winter (my first with this boat), I flushed out the raw water and replaced it with the pink stuff as I have done with smaller diesels. I didn't drain or change the 50-50 antifreeze mixture. Is this something I should do?

I haven’t read the entire post so forgive me if I am repeating something.

Your antifreeze (50/50) serves as freeze protection however it is also an additive rich coolant that protects your engine. You should ck with your engine manufacturer to see when they recommend it to be changed. Some like Yanmar suggest changing every year or 2, regardless of engine hours, using an approved type / brand.

 

[Ex Sailor]

" .....I flushed out the raw water and replaced it with the pink stuff .... "

I would NOT use the pink plumbing stuff !! use the pink RV & Marine pink as it has NO alcohol in it. Alcohol will destroy most rubber and gaskets I am told ...... F

 

[FF]

One big hassle with the pink RV drinkable stuff is residue.

It is best to fill the water system and attempt to keep it full of pink stuff.

Otherwise if allowed to evaporate a residue of pink stuff is left in the system.

This may require a few days to re liquify , so the water isn't pink when being used.

 

[MacDuff]

I used the RV/Marine "pink stuff".