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Old 12-20-2020, 12:42 PM   #21
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Wondering if I might have a bad relay. Iím getting voltage to the red wire but no voltage to the red and white wire. However if I jump and apply voltage to the red and white wire ithe lift pump comes on. Am I to assume thatís a bad relay. Or could it be something with the other switches down stream.
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Old 12-20-2020, 02:15 PM   #22
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I didn't see any reference to you checking the fuel solenoid. If it's gone (I had to replace mine) you get no click when you hit the preheat switch. The starter will work and the engine will turn over, but no fuel. While someone hits the preheat switch, check and see if the solenoid pulls the fuel lever. If it doesn't you can move the fuel lever manually and the engine will fire.
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Old 12-20-2020, 02:24 PM   #23
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If the solenoid doesn't move with the preheat switch. You can apply 12v to the ungrounded terminal and see if the solenoid is good. If it is, check those toggle switches. It was my misfortune to have a bad one (can't remember which) and it took me a while to track that down.
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Old 12-20-2020, 02:43 PM   #24
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Any chance that the relay, the picture I attached, could be bad
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Old 12-20-2020, 03:49 PM   #25
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Glow plug need replacement?

Note I had similar issue with my NextGen this summer, we tried all sorts of options. Finally got a gen specialist to look at it at the end of the season and he determined it needed to go back to factory for rebuild.
I went through the process of sending my NG 3.5 to the factory too. Did they rebuild yours?
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Old 12-20-2020, 04:14 PM   #26
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Shortly after we first got our boat, the WB 12.5 refused to start. Not sure when it had been last run. Turned out to be a sticking fuel solenoid. A light tap with a hammer and liberal WD40 solved the problem. It never stuck again for the 8 years we owned the boat. Simple to check.
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Old 12-20-2020, 04:20 PM   #27
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Any chance that the relay, the picture I attached, could be bad
Very distinct possibility, thatís the one I mentioned earlier, maybe both. As a side note, we just spent 2 days tracking down a bad starter solenoid. This solenoid effects several sensors, after replacing it we got the genny running again. I will be giving the genny a serious workout over the next few days, just to make sure no other problems.
Good luck.
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Old 12-20-2020, 04:57 PM   #28
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Any chance that the relay, the picture I attached, could be bad

I have a Westerbeke that has those relays. They're nothing remarkable, you can get them at nearly any auto parts stores including Autozone or Advance. Prob less than $10. I've had more than one fail, they're easy to replace, I keep spares. They're not easy to find in the Bahamas! It should click when the preheat switch is held down. Mine would get flaky before going out, the engine would fire up, then bog a bit until the switch was released then it would run normally. Like it was a voltage drop through the relay. Relay change out fixed it right away.



Depends on how the controls are wired, check the schematic, sounds like your bypass relay isn't pulling in, so the oil pressure switch is keeping the start circuit from energizing. The relay provides power to the solenoid, pump, and glow plug relay, once the engine's running, the oil pressure switch closes and that circuit is closed/bypassed. Variant of a latching circuit.
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Old 12-20-2020, 05:16 PM   #29
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Have had a similar sounding issue with our Kubota genset since we got the vessel so this MAY help

Battery is fine and have swapped it over with new starts and no change, but the only way we get the solenoid to click is if I connect a battery charger for a few minutes and get voltage to 13.7 volts, then click and instant start.
Sounds like bad connection but have cut them out and soldered them together with no change so thinking a break somewhere else in the wire.

Have bypassed solenoid and it clicks off of the battery voltage so that's good
Annoying thing is I have had sparkies on board a couple of times over the years for other things but keep forgetting to get this looked at while here.
Obviously while I have a workaround its not registering as important in my brain.

Edit: I think I have a spare relay in my bag of tricks, I should look at that and see what happens
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Old 12-20-2020, 08:05 PM   #30
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So many irrelevant replies....
Don't know a thing about that relay. Did you try what I was talking about with the fuel solenoid?
Needs to be ruled out before you start with the wiring, etc.
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Old 12-20-2020, 08:22 PM   #31
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I did, and I jumped the fuel solenoid valve and it clicked in just like it supposed to.
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Old 12-20-2020, 08:54 PM   #32
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Also the voltage at the pre-heat switch is one volt less on the bottom as opposed to the top post which is the power coming in
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Old 12-20-2020, 10:59 PM   #33
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Also the voltage at the pre-heat switch is one volt less on the bottom as opposed to the top post which is the power coming in
I concur, but you pretty much have to hit that preheat switch to start the darn thing.
Hope we helped in some small way, if not, maybe time to concede and bring in the experts, such as they are, LOL!
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Old 12-21-2020, 01:39 AM   #34
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Dkk3000..if you are still stumped with this after Christmas I would be glad to come out and help. My boat is in Tarpon Springs.
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:33 AM   #35
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I must not be getting this. Did the fuel solenoid pull the lever open when you hit the preheat switch? Or just when you jumped it.
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Old 12-21-2020, 09:56 AM   #36
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My mistake on the layout of your generator. Evidently your fuel run solenoid is threaded into the back of the fuel injection pump. Principle is the same though. It needs to be energized when the preheat switch is on in order for fuel to be delivered to the injectors. My 8.0 has an external lever that the solenoid pulls open. Click image for larger version

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Old 12-21-2020, 10:08 AM   #37
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No I jumped the switch with 12 V and it work, nothing will work with the pre-heat switch. That’s why I’m wondering if it’s not the relay inside the electrical box. I’m going to check the switches this morning. I believe the water temperature Swiches should be open and the pressure switch should be closed. I think
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Old 12-21-2020, 10:24 AM   #38
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Got it. Did you try jumping the preheat toggle switch to see if that's not defective? Also the stop switch is normally closed so you can jump that as well to make sure that it hasn't gone bad and is staying open.
Be careful about cranking too much if you're in the water with the seacock open.
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Old 12-21-2020, 10:30 AM   #39
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No I jumped the switch with 12 V and it work, nothing will work with the pre-heat switch. Thatís why Iím wondering if itís not the relay inside the electrical box. Iím going to check the switches this morning. I believe the water temperature Swiches should be open and the pressure switch should be closed. I think

I think you are close with the relay. Check to see if the control signal is activating as it should. That's the other thing that could be preventing the relay from doing it's thing.


Also, you could try pulling out the other relays and trying that to see if it correctly works. That would tell you if it's a bad relay, or something else. Or just get a new relay and try it. No harm in having a spare on hand.
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Old 12-21-2020, 10:35 AM   #40
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Water temp switch normally closed, oil pressure sensor normally open. Preheat only affects oil pressure sensor, bypassing it until oil pressure builds and closes it.
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