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Old 01-16-2020, 01:32 PM   #21
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You have escaped the Volvo curse...or as a wise man said, "Beware Volvo, run from them as you would the plague."
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Old 01-16-2020, 04:50 PM   #22
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Generally Should cost between $2-4,000 per cylinder for an engine overhaul for smaller non commercial diesel engines with liners, less for engines without liners. goes up exponentially as you start pushing big hp# and larger commercial engines, but that should not be applicable to any engine or hp rating on any boats on this forum unless you have an old slow speed diesel in your boat . Difference in price is generally from where you are getting the work done (cost more in Miami than mobile al) and it who makes the engine. If you are thinking about buying a boat where 1 or both of the engines do not run for whatever reason get a quote from someone to replace the motor and subtract that from the sellers asking price. If the engine does not run for a reason as simple as batteries, or a starter what else maintenance wise has the owner deferred or what is he lying about? If the owner cannot go to the starter and start those motors When you step on board it is a NON running motor in need of replacement, or at least that is the attitude that needs to be taken by the buyer. I am not going to pay the premium price of a boat with a non running engine. Sometimes when you brake down the numbers financially the owner should be paying you to take the boat off his hands lol if a boat in perfect condition does for $100,000 and It’s sister boat needs $70,000 worth of engine work it’s sister boat is a 20-&25,000 boat. and that little bit of extra off is for the bs hassles that you need to go through to do the swap. If you don’t brake it down like this you will forever be frustrated when you have dumped double or triple the amount of money than the actual value of the boat before you even leave the dock.
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Old 01-18-2020, 05:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MV Wanderlust View Post
As a side note, we have twin Volvos and have been very happy with them. We hesitated at first, due to the price of certain Volvo parts, but we're glad we went ahead with the purchase. A well-maintained Volvo will run a long time. There are plenty of boats in our marina with Volvos and none of them are broken down. Also, there are hundreds of thousands of Volvo-powered trucks and heavy equipment out there. Can't recall ever seeing one broken down. Just one person's opinion.
I have 1988 TAMD 61A's and really like them as well. They are very simple and don't have lots of electronics and other things to fail on them, and start every single time. I've had Cat, Yanmar, Volvo, and Cummins and they are all great engines for different reasons.

Parts are more expensive for the older Volvos, but I have not found that I need very many of the big expensive ones. Yanmar is just as bad pricing-wise on many things, and in Washington State, you can't buy them online and have to deal with local dealers which are less than helpful IMHO. I have found lots of parts on eBay for older engines at a fraction of normal pricing.

I don't need that many big parts and I think that is for two reasons: one - the bugs and issues from a new engine have been worked out long ago, and some of the less-than-optimal parts have been replaced by newer ideas/after market solutions. Second is maintenance, which has been discussed here and elsewhere ad nauseam. Regardless of the manufacturer, an engine that has been taken care of properly and continually maintained will run well and not require massive amounts of parts and work.

Sounds like you avoided an engine that might have had even more problems than the issues initially found. Probably a good thing to have passed!
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Old 01-18-2020, 06:54 PM   #24
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Our previous boat had a Volvo TAMD40A. Due to a faulty engine diagnosis we were told we needed to replace. This was in 2012 in Campbell River BC so I'm sure the numbers will be different today and in other jurisdictions, but the relative costs should be similar. Costs are exclusive of pullout/replace labour.
Rebuilt Volvo TAMD40B (200 HP).......... $30K
New Yanmar (150 HP)..........................$25K
New John Deere (160 HP).....................$24K
New Isusu (160 HP).............................$23K

I can't remember the model numbers on any of the non Volvo quotes, just their HPs.

I was quoted $5K for the labour on the non Volvos.
The Volvo labour came in lower due to it being an exact replacement for motor mounts etc.

We decided to go with the Isusu for a number of reasons.
The John Deere was too tall to fit in the engine space.
Didn't like the high RPMs of the Yanmar.
Nervous about getting another Volvo.

But in the end, after all of the research, it turned out our original Volvo was in fine shape so we didn't need to replace it. Other than the one scare (caused by a mechanic's ineptitude) we had great service with the Volvo; it was around 4200 hours when we sold the boat.
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:47 PM   #25
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Would the opinions remain the same with the TAM-70-D? I am considering a Primo looking 40 footer with 2 of them. Full maint history going back to the original purchase. 2000 hours.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:10 PM   #26
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Would the opinions remain the same with the TAM-70-D? I am considering a Primo looking 40 footer with 2 of them. Full maint history going back to the original purchase. 2000 hours.
I know very little about Volvo's, hence why the original question, but with full maintenance records going that far back would be a plus. As I've read here many times, it all depends on the PO and how they maintained everything.
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Old 01-21-2020, 02:15 PM   #27
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Have you troubleshot the starter?
Is it getting power?
Is the solenoid clicking in?
What if you use jumper cables directly to starter main power lug? Does it crank then?

If starter really is bad why not swap starters to see that engine run?

If you personally can't do this or the owner won't allow it this had better be a heck of a low price.

In all my years of working on things I almost never started something to find an oil leak.

Unless the leak is squirting across the engine room, gravity pulls oil down and air flow pushes oil back. Look for the highest and most forward place covered with oil. That is most likely where the oil is coming from.

If the leak is that bad I would be more worried about the engine being damaged by running out of oil. Otherwise some oil is just a nice coating of rust proofing.

Nobody ever said: I hope I can get that bolt off it looks mighty oily.
Or: That truck is shot, the frame is full of oil holes.
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Old 01-21-2020, 11:51 PM   #28
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just as an aside. I have a volvo on my Camano. Its true that parts can be expensive, but if you have the time, many are available from alternative sources for better prices. A couple examples; I had an oil cooler go bad...Volvo wanted about 3,000 for a new one. I ordered one directly from a fellow in norway of all places, and it cost me 1,300. Not cheap, but way better. had the same experience with an exhaust elbow. I really like the engine, although that doesn't keep me from hating the cost of parts.
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Old 02-06-2020, 01:21 PM   #29
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Volvo TAMD 40s are really good engines. I have had three of them over the years and so I have made several routine repairs. A new aftermarket starter is about $150. Water circulating pump rebuild kit is about $200. I found old mercedies glow plugs with the same specs as the Bosch except they are longer on the unimportant end by 1/4 inch, for about $6 each. I buy the seals and bearings and other Johnson pump parts and rebuil;d my seawater pumps. My injector pump reseal kit is cheap as is rebuilt injectors. My alternators have been changed out for 100 amp Delco 10SI units at about $70 each. Other than heat exchangers and coolers I have found these engines very affordable.
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