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Old 04-30-2021, 03:16 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by jleonard View Post
If you buy some threaded rod (same thread as the bolts) and put 2 lengths into the bolt holes on opposite sides they will act as a guide to help get the shaft into the hole. It will support most of the weight.
I don't recall the thread size or the length but that's the easy part.
That sounds a good idea. It is 3/8 bolt standard thread.
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Old 04-30-2021, 04:00 PM   #22
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Also does the new damper plate need an alignment tool to aid in then sliding the velvet drive shaft in? Like is done with an auto clutch and pressure plate?
Belll housing must be removed.

No alignment tool needed, but splined input shaft has to be centered in damper plate when installing. Possible to ruin damper plate if you try to force a misaligned shaft in. Thus the 2 studs in mounting bolt holes.

Note that triangle shaped damper plate is only rated to 360 Cu In. Install the HD round ones. They are universal fits and about the same price.

All the work is getting transmission out. I would replace the clutch plates and seals while it is out.
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Old 04-30-2021, 04:19 PM   #23
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Belll housing must be removed.

No alignment tool needed, but splined input shaft has to be centered in damper plate when installing. Possible to ruin damper plate if you try to force a misaligned shaft in. Thus the 2 studs in mounting bolt holes.

Note that triangle shaped damper plate is only rated to 360 Cu In. Install the HD round ones. They are universal fits and about the same price.

All the work is getting transmission out. I would replace the clutch plates and seals while it is out.
That is good info. Now your saying the round dampers are universal. So the spline counts on the input shaft are the same? Do you happen to have a link example to a round one that will work? It is his boat, and if the damper is what is wrong, that is all he will want done.

Here are a variety of dampers, can you look at them and tell me which would be good ones?

https://bpi.ebasicpower.com/search_2...more%20rows%20

ALTDA-107 seems like it would be the right one
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Old 04-30-2021, 05:46 PM   #24
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That is good info. Now your saying the round dampers are universal. So the spline counts on the input shaft are the same? Do you happen to have a link example to a round one that will work? It is his boat, and if the damper is what is wrong, that is all he will want done.

Here are a variety of dampers, can you look at them and tell me which would be good ones?

ALTDA-107 seems like it would be the right one
Velvet drives typically have 26 tooth splines. Very generic.

I purchased the ALTDA-107 for my Ford Lehman's before I removed the transmission. The mounting hole pattern should match just about everything. But his engine may require a different bolt pattern so I can't say with any certainty that the ALTDA-107 is the correct one.
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Old 04-30-2021, 05:59 PM   #25
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Velvet drives typically have 26 tooth splines. Very generic.

I purchased the ALTDA-107 for my Ford Lehman's before I removed the transmission. The mounting hole pattern should match just about everything. But his engine may require a different bolt pattern so I can't say with any certainty that the ALTDA-107 is the correct one.
If he has a triangular damper, will the round one use more bolts to hold it to the flywheel? How many bolts are typically used for this?

I am certain though he will have whatever Mercruiser used in 1984
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Old 04-30-2021, 06:14 PM   #26
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If he has a triangular damper, will the round one use more bolts to hold it to the flywheel? How many bolts are typically used for this?

I am certain though he will have whatever Mercruiser used in 1984
I did not have triangular type. Mine used 6. Seriously doubt it would be triangular. Not rated for that hp. Damage will be obvious. Bit's of broken springs in bottom of bell housing or very loose springs.
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Old 04-30-2021, 06:21 PM   #27
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Bad dampner plates can make some sounds off and on, hard to tell it them, then go silent until major failure down the road.


Mine screeched for a bit in North Carolina, then went silent for hours.


The advice given to me was try for home (Jersey) and change it there...well it di fine with no noise/symptoms till 13 miles from home marina when it choked the engine to stoppage as spring bits jammed the flywheel.
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Old 04-30-2021, 07:53 PM   #28
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No matter what or where the noise is coming from the transmission needs to be separated from the engine. The first part you will encounter is the damper plate. It will be obvious to you if it is good or bad.

If it is bad replace it. If it looks good, keep digging, you will be replacing the damper plate anyway.

Two 60 or 70 year old guys can easily get the tranny out of the bilge, without even breaking a sweat. You each bring a 20 year old grandson, nephew or hired hand along for the final lift. Before they arrive, you guys do all the brain work like supporting the rear of the engine, getting the shaft loose and backed off, disconnecting the cooling and control lines, etc. Then call in the young muscle.

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Old 04-30-2021, 09:08 PM   #29
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The dampner plate can be changed in just a couple hours.

Mine sounded like lifter racket and went away slightly above 1k rpm.

It is about $150. Crazy not to change it. I think they are good for around 2500 hours, I changed mine at 5k, might have gone 250 more hours.

Dplate keeps input shaft aligned. As it fails it imparts a vibration into the BW.

When I changed mine noise reduction was dramatic. Shifting was much firmer and softer.
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Old 05-01-2021, 06:50 AM   #30
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I did not read every post but, I concluded, after reading about a page and a half.
A. wont know much more without removing it.

I had the trans rebuilt on my N46 MANY years ago...... It was one of those things that could not be ignored or put off. So that make the price almost immaterial. Caught the trouble via the oil sample.

I actually stumbled on a perfect shop to remove, rebuild and reinstall the transmission. They did it all 'in the water'.

I did recommend the shop to another boater (Grand Banks)..... He went and inspected the shop and talked to the personnel before they did the work.

Please let us know the final outcome please.
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Old 05-01-2021, 07:43 AM   #31
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I replaced my damper plate and it only had 3 bolts holding it. and they were 5/16!
But apparently that's enough cause I ran 14 years and lots of hours like that.
I had the tranny out at the time and was rebuilding it so at that point a new damper plate was a no brainer.
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Old 05-05-2021, 03:09 PM   #32
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change oil and fil with MONO grade SAE30
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Old 05-07-2021, 06:14 AM   #33
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I think we will start on taking this apart next week. I promise to post some pics.
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Old 05-07-2021, 09:04 AM   #34
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You might be able to slide the tranny back enough to replace the damper. Save your back.

Unbolt the shaft. Jack everything up to clear. Block the engine. Put blocks under the 'wings' on the stringers. Shift the lifting point to the front of the tranny. Unbolt the tranny. Keep it level and slide it back.
IIRC you only need about 6 " to get to the damper. Maybe a little more.
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Old 05-07-2021, 09:04 PM   #35
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In my experience, a velvet drive with reduction weighs in at about 80lbs not 150lbs so only one old guy needed LOL
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Old 05-07-2021, 11:31 PM   #36
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In my experience, a velvet drive with reduction weighs in at about 80lbs not 150lbs so only one old guy needed LOL
He probably has the CR2 models. Weight is between 162lbs and 175lbs. You can remove the reduction gear first to lighten it but it is still well beyond the capability of one old guy.
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Old 05-08-2021, 07:56 AM   #37
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In my experience, a velvet drive with reduction weighs in at about 80lbs not 150lbs so only one old guy needed LOL

The book says 154 lbs for my 2.57:1 reduction 72Cs (not CR2s).
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:30 PM   #38
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Hi, got it apart. The damper plate is not cracked, but it seems to be worn out. One of the springs is very loose, it has been shedding rust all over the inside of the bellhousing and it is very dry, not oily. I figure when it spins around, it is snapping and crackling on itself.
Transmission feels very tight and smooth and noiseless when turning by hand. The new plate, I will soak in gear oil, you know it is a moving part within itself under pressure.

It took 3 hours to get it all apart. Reason was, the trans was corroded into the bellhousing. Could not separate it. Finally I decided must unbolt bellhousing with trans. What made that hard was the shield plate on bottom is held on with 9 1/4 inch bolts, and they are hard to get to with trans in the way.
Then when we got the combo off together, I beat the bellhousing off trans with a hammer.

It has the triangular damper plate, so we are ordering the better round plate, and yes, only 3 small bolts hold it on the flywheel.

I was looking at the pics, glad I took some, and was wondering, how to tell which way the damper faces?
Does that Basic Power part I linked seem like the right one to you?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8vZcx5yw6qxAjXoF8
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Old 05-13-2021, 03:59 PM   #39
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Apparently, the ALTDA-108 is a heavier duty version, so I emailed to Herb, and it is his choice what to buy.
https://bpi.ebasicpower.com/shop/mar...e-1004-650-008
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Old 05-13-2021, 04:06 PM   #40
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Using a straight edge determine the depth of the mounted plate on the flywheel. Use that to determine which side of the dp goes where. Mine had one side of the spline about an inch proud of the other.

As a note, from the factory, mine had the wrong or backwards dp on the shaft. Was only engaging by 1/2" on tranny shaft and the hub was worn almost out. I figure maybe 50 hours or one hard shift and toast.

I would be tempted to change the plate and test the tranny if it came out easy. Tough call.
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