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Old 11-24-2018, 06:47 PM   #41
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I use two microns on both initial and subsequent fuel filters.
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Old 11-24-2018, 06:56 PM   #42
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Larry: I think I’ve got a box of those Baldwin BF825 fuel filters.

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Originally Posted by angus99 View Post
Thanks, JD.



So to summarize where I am on the question of 2-micron secondaries:


  • the best advice seems to be go with the manufacturer’s spec
  • that spec doesn’t seem to be in any of the literature I’ve looked at
  • the best anecdotal recommendation from the guy who was the guru of Lehmans is 2 microns
  • 2 micron secondaries may not exist



Think I’ll call Brian Smith (again) on Monday.

The filter I currently have inline is the Delphi 7111-296.

Jim.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:18 AM   #43
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The hassle is the filter size 2,10 or 30 microns is a nominal , not an absolute number.

Those 2's may pass a 60 or 100 chunk, it times , just not often.

I prefer 2's in series , as I have never found an "expert" claiming the injectors or engine wore out because the fuel was too clean.

With a perhaps 1 in 10,000 chance of chunks , with series filters it becomes 10,000 x 10,000 x 10,000 if you have 3 filters in line.

Seems the std requirement for common rail engines , where 3-5 shots of fuel , instead of a big shot are the norm.

The key to multiple filtration is a quick valve to shift filter banks if the one in use begins to clog.

Big filters are only about $10.00 each ,at 4 or 6 a change it takes a long time to change out a boat buck. Ask the injector guy what $60.00 will buy!
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:34 AM   #44
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First thing I added when we bought the boat 3 years ago was Tony's 2 stage filter system with vacuum gauges...boat had been onto hard for three years and did not want to take any chances with fuel gunk or hiring a polishing service. 1,300 hours later I'm very happy I did ...vacuum gauges allow me to see when we're getting close to a change....and spin on is the right skill for those mechanically challenged like myself. I change them both when one hits 10lbs on the gauge.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:46 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TowLou View Post
In the end the cleaner your fuel is the more life you will get from you engine. I'm all for a 2 micron final. Especially the newer engines and with this ulsd fuel you loose a little bit of lubrication in your system.
The longer the engine life? Injectors will last longer but I doubt super clean fuel extends engine life in any measurable amount.
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Old 11-25-2018, 10:06 AM   #46
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Smitty: I use fuel color along with vacuum gauges. But IMO if the fuel is cloudy, or there is water or junk in the bowl something is going on.
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Old 11-25-2018, 10:45 AM   #47
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One thing to keep in mind, micron rating stamped on filters is largely meaningless. Beta number is where the rubber meets the road. What is better for the Lehman, a 2 micron filter with a BN of 75% or a 10 micron of 90%? A bit of sleuthing will reveal some interesting stuff on BNs. There are even PhDs theses written on the subject.
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Old 11-25-2018, 11:45 AM   #48
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One thing to keep in mind, micron rating stamped on filters is largely meaningless. Beta number is where the rubber meets the road. What is better for the Lehman, a 2 micron filter with a BN of 75% or a 10 micron of 90%? A bit of sleuthing will reveal some interesting stuff on BNs. There are even PhDs theses written on the subject.
Good point. Here’s an easy explanation of Beta ratios written by Baldwin filters.

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literat...BetaRatios.pdf
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Old 11-25-2018, 03:28 PM   #49
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One thing to keep in mind, micron rating stamped on filters is largely meaningless. Beta number is where the rubber meets the road. What is better for the Lehman, a 2 micron filter with a BN of 75% or a 10 micron of 90%? A bit of sleuthing will reveal some interesting stuff on BNs. There are even PhDs theses written on the subject.
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Good point. Here’s an easy explanation of Beta ratios written by Baldwin filters.

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literat...BetaRatios.pdf
Really helpful! I’m guessing—and someone please correct me—that since you have two in-line secondary filters on a Lehman, the efficiency of the pair is significantly higher than the beta number for one filter. IOW, if the #1 secondary filter is 95% efficient at removing 10 micron particles, what comes out of the #2 secondary must be pretty frickin’ clean.
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Old 11-26-2018, 06:19 AM   #50
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"I doubt super clean fuel extends engine life in any measurable amount."

At 200-400 hours a year for recreational boats NOTHING will extend the engine life , as most run of the mill diesels will go 6,000 to 10,000 hours before needing an overhaul.

Most recreational diesels are KILLLED not worn out.

Overheat , ancient anti freeze , wrong oil , or most common , not serviced as the MFG suggests for storage.

With some engines a procedure is needed for over 30 days, check the workshop manual (Da Book) not the owners operating manual.
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Old 11-26-2018, 09:38 AM   #51
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First thing I added when we bought the boat 3 years ago was Tony's 2 stage filter system with vacuum gauges...boat had been onto hard for three years and did not want to take any chances with fuel gunk or hiring a polishing service. 1,300 hours later I'm very happy I did ...vacuum gauges allow me to see when we're getting close to a change....and spin on is the right skill for those mechanically challenged like myself. I change them both when one hits 10lbs on the gauge.
A great approach - seems like a winner.
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Old 11-26-2018, 09:41 AM   #52
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Smitty: I use fuel color along with vacuum gauges. But IMO if the fuel is cloudy, or there is water or junk in the bowl something is going on.
I have never seen water in a Racor even in a 25 year old boat/fuel tank.
The fuel will not be turbid when you do a pre start inspection even if it is loaded.
Vac gages tell us how many hours we had to get loading, when to change, and how to plan for trips.
What engines do you have and what are your vac readings at: new, time to change and 'limit rpm' ?
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Old 11-26-2018, 09:43 AM   #53
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The longer the engine life? Injectors will last longer but I doubt super clean fuel extends engine life in any measurable amount.
Fleet managers do not seem to think that 'extra' types of fuel filtration are measurably better.
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:58 AM   #54
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I have never seen water in a Racor even in a 25 year old boat/fuel tank.
?
I had water in mine once on my ex boat, an old 34 Mainship I.

There were some "special" circumstances that winter and I think I got a lot of inside the tank condensation. The Racor 900 bowl was almost full of water when I discovered it.
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:10 AM   #55
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I had water in mine once on my ex boat, an old 34 Mainship I.

There were some "special" circumstances that winter and I think I got a lot of inside the tank condensation. The Racor 900 bowl was almost full of water when I discovered it.
I bought a used boat maybe 15 years back that had sat under the gypsum conveyor off the Hudson river for 3 years. They had left the fuel fill partially open and we had about 15 gallons of water in the stb tank. We used some flexible copper tubing typically for ice maker line attached to a vane pump pump and pulled the water up to 5 gallon jugs where we let it decant out. I believe we got about 15 gallons of water out of the tank and maybe 3-4 gallons of mixed slop as well.

When we put the boat in the water we did have some fouling of fuel filters on our 100 nmile trip home but did not see any appreciable water in the separators or the Racors.
Just my only experience with water and 250 gallon tanks.
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:35 PM   #56
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I spoke with Brian Smith today and the “acceptable” range of secondaries for the Lehman 135 is 2 to 10 microns. Since apparently no one makes a 2-micron element that will fit the standard filter heads on our Lehmans, 10 it will have to be. (Brian says any brand is fine except Wix/NAPA due to quality control issues.)

I ordered a 20 micron Fleetguard “mud filter,” which I’ll use when transferring fuel between tanks (agree that polishing for polishing’s sake may not be necessary, but why not filter when you have to move fuel anyway?). I’ll probably use a 120 gpm Reverso gear pump to speed up the transfer process.

Finally, this winter, I’ll probably replace the Racor 500 primaries with Fleetguard dual setups for each engine. I like the larger filtering volume and the FS1000 specs are impressive, with almost 99% efficiency at 10 microns and 95% for liquid and emulsified water. Sounds plenty good enough for me.
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:34 PM   #57
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I use WIX 33166 for my P90 CAV filters. 10 micron nominal. Racor 500 Primary with 30 micron. 1750 hours on the injectors, zero problems. I use Biobor for winter storage.

(On a prior boat Racor's took out a lot of water. Mandatory drain before engine start)
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:39 PM   #58
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(On a prior boat Racor's took out a lot of water. Mandatory drain before engine start)
Where did the water come from?
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Old 11-27-2018, 12:57 AM   #59
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Where did the water come from?
PO left prior boat on the hard for a couple of years, rain poured in through a laz hatch onto top of fuel tank. There was an access port on top of tank with bad gasket. Polished it for a couple of days but had to move the boat from Newport to Boston. I eventually made a new gasket from EPDM, end of water ingress. Very impressed with Racor's ability to separate out water.

Current boat is good. Fuel fill o-rings are still working although seam caulking around fill cap leaks so water drips down fill tube resulting in rust on top of iron tanks. Redoing the seams will be my winter project. Should be shrink wrapped by end of week and then I can start.
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Old 11-27-2018, 08:47 AM   #60
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I use WIX 33166 for my P90 CAV filters. 10 micron nominal. Racor 500 Primary with 30 micron. 1750 hours on the injectors, zero problems. I use Biobor for winter storage.

(On a prior boat Racor's took out a lot of water. Mandatory drain before engine start)
Just passing along what Brian told me—rather emphatically—about Wix/NAPA. Said he’d gotten multiple complaints. I’d originally called him with a list of questions—one of which was why I had fuel leaking out of a brand new NAPA secondary I’d just installed.
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