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Old 12-04-2017, 12:23 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
If you take a 2x4 and lean against the shaft can you stop it?

I strongly agree with this advice. Grabbing ahold of a spinning shaft with gloves on is a good way to lose fingers or worse. Please be careful and best wishes.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:30 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by C lectric View Post
My gear box, a TD 506, has done that for the last 32 years. It was doing it when we bought the boat so actually longer,; just don't know how much longer.

I was told when I asked about it to learn to live with it unless it got worse. It hasn't but at times it can be a nuisance especially when I'm single handing the boat.

Once it warms up the shaft slows. It's not fast but determined. I can stop it but only now check it periodically to see if it is worse.

But unless your is worse than mine just monitor it.
My TD 506's have never done that. Something is wrong, even though it might not be badly wrong I would not tolerate it.
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Old 12-05-2017, 10:06 AM   #23
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Yes not very good advice when I relook at it. However I will stand by it as it was my best choice at the time but what I should have included was:

--get a mechanics opinion, not ours. Someone who has real experience rebuilding these things. That's what I did those many years ago. Ski in NC would fit that description as would a few others.

--It could be oil drag which was part of what I was told which is the phenomenon that your torque converter in the auto trans in you car partly works by in which case a re & re may not fix it. Often as it warms up the drag will become much weaker.

--it could be a warped disc which can be fixed but often requiring a complete teardown out of the boat.

--but first make sure it is not a maladjusted control link. It is possible the cable or the pivot pin has worn, the clamp holding the cable ferrule is loose or something else causing an incomplete movement into the neutral position. It could even be some wear in the control valve or a seal allowing too much leakage to the fwd. clutch pack. Find out.

--get an estimate for pulling and reinstalling the gear and the rebuild.

--then make a decision.
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Old 12-05-2017, 04:51 PM   #24
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When I did my repower the gears were out of the boat and I thought there would be no need to touch them. They only had 1900 hrs, and TD is almost forever, right? Well, the screens had some debris in them. With everything else in the boat new or recon I then decided to have the gears rebuilt.

Cost was $7200 for the pair including pick up and delivery back to the yard in Port Townsend. Five years ago. Done by a guy in the Seattle area who worked from home but had a good rep. Despite the low hours the internals were not in good shape. We suspect the PO, or more likely his dumb-ass sons, had the habit of quickly changing from forward to reverse at raised rpm.

Although TD say it isn't necessary I always change gear at idle, and try to have a pause in neutral on the way through.
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