Threadlock on oil drain?

[firstbase]

Going to change out the banjo bolt in my oil sump drain with a new fitting. When installing the new fitting what, if any, threadlocker should I use? Fitting will have a copper washer but don't see where that would matter on the threadlock subject...

 

[diver dave]

Knowing the dire consequences of a leak there, i would use the blue stuff. And a torque wrench.

 

[firstbase]

Thanks Dave. Will have to look up the suggested torque on it, not quite sure. Been waiting for a reason to buy a new torque wrench. It is here. Although I think that you guys will say just owning a trawler is reason enough.

 

[Comodave]

I could not possibly get my torque wrench on the drain plugs on my engines. I would just snug them up like you do a car engine drain plug.

 

[stubones99]

If you don't have new copper washers on the way back together, you can anneal the old ones in a pinch with a propane torch. They are the part that is preventing the leaks. I know Deutz required new copper washers on all work with banjo bolts on warranty work.

If you don't have new washers, all you have to do is heat them up carefully watching them to change color slightly. This softens the copper again, since every time it is pinched, the copper gets harder with the fatigue. Don't melt the copper though.

 

[firstbase]

Thanks for the copper lesson! Fortunately the new fittings came with new copper washers.

 

[Mischief]

Use caution when tightening any banjo fitting bolt. it is easy to over-torque, and fracture it through the holes. I don't know that I would use any lock tight. Maybe the white Teflon type, comes in a squeeze tube. Remember a lubed thread torques differently than dry.

 

[firstbase]

Thanks. taking the banjo fitting off. Replacing it with a straight through adapter so I can come off the engine with a push on nipple. What should I torque an oil drain fitting to? Can't find anything in the manual.

 

[gaston]

I love these should find them on ebay

EZ Oil Drain Valve - The Easiest Oil Change

 

[D.Duck44]

You may have difficulty getting the thread oil free and clean enough to use a threadlocker successfully.

 

[firstbase]

I love these should find them on ebay

EZ Oil Drain Valve - The Easiest Oil Change

Have seen those but will be plumbing in a Reverso pump. Seems like another valve wouldn't be needed? Also, according to Brian at Amer. Diesel, my Lehman 135 needs a 3/4"-24 thread. Don't see that size listed. Actually I don't see that size listed for anything anywhere!

 

[gaston]

Have seen those but will be plumbing in a Reverso pump. Seems like another valve wouldn't be needed? Also, according to Brian at Amer. Diesel, my Lehman 135 needs a 3/4"-24 thread. Don't see that size listed. Actually I don't see that size listed for anything anywhere!

We used a 3/4 16 UNF on a 135 Lehman

 

[firstbase]

We used a 3/4 16 UNF on a 135 Lehman

All I know is what Brian told me. Could he be wrong on that? I have two of his oil change kits and the connection supplied seems to count out at 24. One confusing thing he told me was that there was some sort of insert or something that the drain plug bolts into? I forget what he called it exactly. A liner in the hold to change the threads? I swear he told me all of this. Swear. Didn't dream it!!

 

[FF]

" taking the banjo fitting off. Replacing it with a straight through adapter so I can come off the engine with a push on nipple."

The fear would be moving the drain hose could loosen the fitting.

Solution fix the drain hose after the fitting , so moving it does not stress the drain.

We use a system with quick disconnecting hyd fittings and a small rotary pump that pulls 7-8 Gal of hot 40wt in a couple of min..

Clean and almost effortless .

I am an oil change fan the change is only done after a long 5-8 hour day (to allow the detergents in the oil to re absorb the fines) , and our Launch is definatly not standing headroom.

But 5 min of heat is OK to give our 6-71 the best chance at a few more decades of reliable service.

 

[firstbase]

I guess oversimplified my explanation. Fitting in sump will come out and then 90 degree up straight. Hose will connect after the 90 degree turn up. Hose up to a little below the injectors or so and then aft to the pump. Will secure the hose to prevent movement. I guess I will have to remove the current drain plug and take it with me to hydro shop to be sure of the threads. Anyone else with FL 135's have a comment on the threads?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. fb. You may not have a choice in the final orientation of your 90 degree fitting. After applying tape/sealant/threadlock and applying appropriate torque, depending on the thread, the fitting may be "pointed" in any direction. Most definitely do a dry fit first before you clamp anything down. IF you have the clearance, worry about proper tightness more than direction of fitting. Clamp the rubber hose in such a fashion as to apply a tightening rather than loosening force on the fitting.

 

[firstbase]

Thanks RTF. I believe that the fitting has a tightening nut on it to clamp down the copper washer. Could I put the fitting in as tight as possible with it aimed up and then tighten the nut to secure the washer and the fitting? No? Bad idea? Tighten the fitting all the way and go with what I have? Seems I would have to leave a little for the washer nut to be able to tighten?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. fb. Is this another banjo fitting? If so, the I would say yes. Orient then tighten. As I said above, IF it is a solid 90 degree, you may not have a choice. Perhaps a picture of the fitting would make things a bit clearer...

 

[firstbase]

No not another banjo. Trying to get rid of the banjo as the restriction is too small for oil change pump. Simple straight thru with 1/2" female on the other side. Copper washer inbetween sump wall and nut. Will take a picture today (took to boat) and post.

There is a "Came to Trawler Forum with a banjo on my...." joke or meme in here somewhere...

 

[Ski in NC]

One way is to take the plug out and drill and tap it for NPT. My Cummins uses 3/8" NPT fittings and I think 1/2" hose and it flows just fine for a five gal oil change.

Whatever thread it is, it sounds like a straight thread and not tapered. So something, whether a plug or banjo, needs a shoulder for a copper gasket.

With the right fitting, I would not bother with a thread lock compound.

 

[firstbase]

Here some pics of what I am talking about. All of these were in one bag so assume they were for an oil change system project. I believe, not sure, that the pic with the hose is the complete "kit" from American Diesel. Black fitting is the one I am talking about. Length of threads is 1/4" and I count 6 threads. Unless I am missing something about this that would match up to Brians 3/4" x 24.

 

[gaston]

I dont like anything hanging off a brass fitting without been supported. Id go back and look at the link and fittings I gave previously

 

[firstbase]

Gaston, don't understand what you are saying. The EZ fitting shown in your link was much the same as the one I have, no? Except for the valve of course. Mine would have the hose supported along the engine so there wouldn't be any real pressure on the fitting. Are you saying that you would drain straight through into a pan or you would attach a hose only when you were changing oil? Or do you mean that the chrome plated EX fitting is more substantial than the brass one I have?

 

[diver dave]

Pix help a lot. U have a mixed set of straight, tapered and AN/flare fittings there. But not sure the purpose of the hose barb fitting. U are giving us a pipe fitters exam?[emoji41]

 

[gaston]

Gaston, don't understand what you are saying. The EZ fitting shown in your link was much the same as the one I have, no? Except for the valve of course. Mine would have the hose supported along the engine so there wouldn't be any real pressure on the fitting. Are you saying that you would drain straight through into a pan or you would attach a hose only when you were changing oil? Or do you mean that the chrome plated EX fitting is more substantial than the brass one I have?

Yes the EX fitting is the best way to go along with a barb fitting and PVC tube we used the EX fitting and tube along with a oil change pump it made things very easy. We left the 500cm long tube attached to the EX fitting it was so light it didn't need support.


https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Jab...113217&hash=item3cd81839c1:g:m0EAAOSwU4FZ-6KE

 

[firstbase]

Pix help a lot. U have a mixed set of straight, tapered and AN/flare fittings there. But not sure the purpose of the hose barb fitting. U are giving us a pipe fitters exam?[emoji41]

I think that some of these are meant to attach the hose onto a Reverso or similar pump. Not used at the oil pan end and really hae nothing to do with this maybe? Actually I forgot that the push on fitting with the yellow ring was given to me by a guy at Reverso. The other fittings...not sure where they came from. Like I said, found them in the bag with the hose kit.

 

[Comodave]

I have a drain kit installed on my SP225s. I do not have a permanent pump installation but rather hook up the pump when I change the oil. Mine has a petcock on the drain hose so that if the hose breaks or comes adrift the engine won’t drain the oil on it’s own. I keep the petcock closed at all times except when changing the oil. Not sure I would be comfortable without a shutoff at the oil pan.

 

[diver dave]

As i type this, I sit in a vibration lab testing an electronic product. If u do elect to not use a valve, the tightening torques and hose routing become more critical. In any case, after this install, watch for any resonance as u vary engine rpm from min to max. U dont want that hose flying around trying to loosen fittings.

 

[mike66]

As i type this, I sit in a vibration lab testing an electronic product. If u do elect to not use a valve, the tightening torques and hose routing become more critical. In any case, after this install, watch for any resonance as u vary engine rpm from min to max. U dont want that hose flying around trying to loosen fittings.

This turned into a pretty heavy discussion. Take the existing bolt out, compare the threads to the new fitting. If they match, install your new fitting dry, nice and snug like a drain plug. If you're worried about a leak, put a diaper under it. Jeeezzzz.