Starting a long dormant diesel engine

[Martin J]

I'd check the oil for water and viscosity (two finger test). Bar it over to ensure not stuck. Make sure fuel cut off functioning in case of fuel rack stuck in wide open. Pull valve cover to check lube on valve train when started, Then hit the go button!

 

[CapeWhaler]

Not that taking care of our engines is a bad thing, but I tend to agree with Peter (MV Weebles). Repeating something I posted a couple of years ago on starting dormant diesels, my father's sailboat (Universal 18) sat unpickled and untended for nine years after he died before I brought it out from Michigan. I checked the fluids, cautiously cranked it with the compression release open, and when sure it wasn't frozen, started it up - running only for a few minutes. Then shut down and changed oil while it was somewhat warm, and changed all filters. That was thirteen years ago and it's started and run reliably every season.

One more anecdote: a colleague built a beautiful 36' wooden Murray Peterson schooner that took 39 years to finish; his new (originally) Westerbeke sat waiting all that time. When he finally finished the boat he called Westerbeke and asked for advice on firing up the engine for the first time. They said, "It's a diesel engine. Turn the key and start it."

Joe

 

[STB]

My last boat's Perkins 6.354MGTs and 4.107 powered genset hadn't been used in "a while" before I bought it. The PO reported 5 years. His neighbors said 10+ years.

The fluids were checked, the engine starters were bumped a few times, then primed, then started. Then cooling loop and turbos replaced. Then fluids changed. Then a great time was had by all (Well, the genset tool some repair work to the controller and massaging elsewhere).

Boat ran, and runs for the new owner, like a champ. Both mainstream had white smoke cold at the slip typical of the MGTs, one engine had a hint of grey at high rpms, but both were hitting spec for power and ran smooth.

The genset suffered a surprise failure of the raw water pump shaft, but other than that and some wresting with small nuisance leaks at the valve cover gasket on one, they all ran like Champs. Turn key and go.

 

[STB]

My last boat's Perkins 6.354MGTs and 4.107 powered genset hadn't been used in "a while" before I bought it. The PO reported 5 years. His neighbors said 10+ years.

The fluids were checked, the engine starters were bumped a few times, then primed, then started. Then cooling loop and turbos replaced. Then fluids changed. Then a great time was had by all (Well, the genset tool some repair work to the controller and massaging elsewhere).

Boat ran, and runs for the new owner, like a champ. Both mainstream had white smoke cold at the slip typical of the MGTs, one engine had a hint of grey at high rpms, but both were hitting spec for power and ran smooth.

The genset suffered a surprise failure of the raw water pump shaft, but other than that and some wresting with small nuisance leaks at the valve cover gasket on one, they all ran like Champs. Turn key and go.

 

[BoatPoor]

Unless the injectors or glow plugs are easily accessible and easy to get out, I generally prefer the Stabil fogging oil sprayed in through the intake. Don't get crazy and hydro lock it, just enough to coat the cyl walls, intake valve stems, etc.
Used to rehab a bunch of old industrial stuff and this worked great.
Check the fluid levels and make sure the oil smells/looks ok before cranking. On stuff that's been sitting awhile, I prefer starting on the existing oil unless there's a reason not to. That saves the expense of oil, filters, and labor if there's anything seriously wrong with it.
Also, it goes without saying that the fuel system needs to be clean and functional before cranking, even though most diesels will run with really crappy fuel.

 

[dcdon]

I too hope Ski chimes in. I suspect his advice would be to bar it over first and prelube the oil system. Also be prepared for a run away as the fuel injection system can stick in place after sitting that long.

David

I had the runaway situation after a 3 year layup on a 1993 Yanmar 3GM that I have owned for 20 years. Thought I knew the engine as good as my own hands. I had changed all filters, etc. BAU, and was trying to turning it over via switch with fuel shut off, as I usually do after any time down.

This time it went directly to WIDE OPEN and nothing would control it - throttle, fuel, etc. Finally got it shut off via air intake, but not as easy as described. Engine never blew, but scared the wits out of us. Had a pro come in and go over it all after that just to be sure and he said re fuel system sticking.

Lessons learned -
1. HAVE EAR PROTECTION ON OR AT LEAST IN YOUR HAND AT THE READY. I did not to start with as I was in cockpit and earmuffs were below. The first few minutes were deafening. My ears still ring.

2. Know how to shut off the air flow to the engine, have a clear path and have the tools with you. I used a book wrapped in a towel - someone was yelling suggestions at me and it's best I could get my hands on.

Def following this thread.

 

[Portage_Bay]

An old skool technique to manage the risk of a runaway, learned from an old skool diesel mechanic. Prepare a piece of 3/4 plywood bigger than the air intake throat. A smooth sheet of rubber on one side. A handle on the other. Any air filters or screens removed. One person stands by the intake. At the first sign of runaway cover the intake. On Vs it will take two paddles and two assistants. Most engines will stop. I hear it's possible for a two stroke to keep running.

 

[Lou_tribal]

An old skool technique to manage the risk of a runaway, learned from an old skool diesel mechanic. Prepare a piece of 3/4 plywood bigger than the air intake throat. A smooth sheet of rubber on one side. A handle on the other. Any air filters or screens removed. One person stands by the intake. At the first sign of runaway cover the intake. On Vs it will take two paddles and two assistants. Most engines will stop. I hear it's possible for a two stroke to keep running.

Or use a ping pong racket

L

 

[SteveK]

In my case I would need a plastic bag over the cleaner, or time to unscrew filter for the paddle to have a place to go.

 

[Peter B]

Surely this engine must have been started by now - so what the heck happened..?

 

[BruceK]

Surely this engine must have been started by now - so what the heck happened..?

My thoughts too. I`ve started a couple of disused low km gas engines, good at first but not long after significant wear became apparent. So I hope the OP is doing some prelube so everything is nice and moist in advance.

 

[slowgoesit]

So I hope the OP is doing some prelube so everything is nice and moist in advance.

That's ALWAYS a good idea!

 

[Boatcrazy]

Prelube sounds good....but exactly just what does that entail? Are you talking turning over by hand, or running the starter without the fuel until oil press shows, or pulling the injectors and putting Marvel Oil or SeaFoam or?? into ea cylinder, or pulling the valve cover and squirting oil on the lifters etc, or just what? Having hydrolocked my engine once, I'm not eager to repeat that. But the idea of "prelube" sounds good....if I know what that involves!

 

[STB]

People do it differently. Some shut off fuel and seawater and bump the starter a few times and then until oil pressure develops. Others turn it over by hand. Some pump some oil into the main galley by removing a pressure gauge and then doing one of the above. There are likely to be other ways.

 

[Kuncicky]

Surely this engine must have been started by now - so what the heck happened..?

The OP is still mulling it over. If it sat there peacefully for 10 years, then it can sit there a while longer whilst I continue to get advice and visualize everything that can go wrong. And by the way, not that it really matters, this is a genset. Next Generation 5.5 KW genset.


Bill

 

[Slowmo]

As others have said much depends on how it was stored. I would definitely turn it over by hand first to make sure it's free, a couple revolutions to actuate all the valves and make sure no valves are hung up. Personally I'd want to start with fresh fuel and bleed out the old if at all possible. To me as an engineer, 10 years in a marine environment unless it was 'pickled' has some big question marks over it so go slow. Make sure the fuel shut off solenoid is operational as well.

 

[MYTraveler]

I second the recommendation to bar over, run the starter (without letting it start) to pre lube, then start. My computer controlled Cummins engines turn 4 revolutions before injecting fuel, in part to build oil pressure.

 

[Ski in NC]

Check coolant and oil levels, I would not change til after you get it running.

Look in rocker cover oil fill hole with a good light and look for rust on valve gear. If rusty, water has got in.

Take discharge hose off sea water pump and dribble some dishsoap in there to lube impeller.

Get a socket wrench on the crank pulley nut and rotate two turns minimum CW as viewed from the front. It should turn easily with a little resistance from compression. If you feel any hard spot in the rotation, do NOT force it. Could be a stuck valve or plunger in injection pump. Force it and things can bend or break.

Prelube not really necessary, but it is good to do. Take oil sender/switch out and pump in a few ounces of clean lube in the hole in the block. Can use a simple hand oil pump/can with a piece of hose held over the hole. Just want to get the bearings wet. Put sender back on. Wipe up your mess.

Take air cleaner off so the snoot of the intake is accessible. Find something like a nice flat board that can absolutely choke off air flow. May need to plug up blowby hose fitting if it goes right into air intake, it can breathe through that too. Probably a Kubota, those are pretty easy to do.

The above is to choke off air if it tries to run away. Things can stick in injection pump and it can do exactly that. No governor control of fuel rate.

Try a start and see what you get.

Make sure oil pressure comes up.

If it runs well, shut it down in like ten sec and make sure you get water to it at sea pump.

On things like these I like to run it up to temp, then do oil/filter/coolant/impeller change.

I don't bother flushing fuel through as that tends to hold up fine in the closed system, unless it had stuck the inj pump. If that happened, you have more work to do.