Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-15-2021, 09:07 PM   #1
Veteran Member
 
City: toronto
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 38
Startin your Diesel when out of the water

Is there a way to start a diesel when out of the water up on the jacks? How do you work on your motors and test them when not floating? Is there an
''ear muffs' like fitting you can use in your raw water intake or do you just put a hose into the cooling intake line?
__________________
Advertisement

floater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2021, 09:21 PM   #2
Guru
 
O C Diver's Avatar
 
City: Fort Myers, FL... Summers in Crisfield, MD
Vessel Name: Slow Hand
Vessel Model: Cherubini Independence 45
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,122
I ran my charter boat out of the water when I skipped a season. My raw water system has a pencil anode to protect the seacock and strainer plumbing. I removed it and screwed in an adapter to garden hose. With the seacock closed, I opened the water hose valve part way to make sure there was water flowing through the dripless stuffing box and out through the cutlass bearing. Then I started the engine and opened the water hose fully. As the engine isn't under any load, it burns almost no fuel at any RPM. So water flow is mostly about keeping the exhaust elbow cool and lubricating the shaft tube and cutlass bearing.

I probably wouldn't try this with any engine that might get water back in through the exhaust elbow. At the very least, you may not want to start the flow of water before the engine starts if you have a lift muffler. Also struts with cutlass bearings could be a problem out of the water. Even with the transmission out of gear, some propeller shafts will rotate anyway.

Ted
__________________

__________________
Blog: mvslowhand.com
I'm tired of fast moves, I've got a slow groove, on my mind.....
I want to spend some time, Not come and go in a heated rush.....
"Slow Hand" by The Pointer Sisters
O C Diver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2021, 09:28 PM   #3
Veteran Member
 
City: toronto
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 38
Why is it important to lube the cutlass bearing and shaft tube if the boat is in neutral and nothing is spinning?
floater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2021, 09:37 PM   #4
Guru
 
Jeff F's Avatar
 
City: Great Lakes
Vessel Name: Escapade
Vessel Model: 50` US Navy Utility trawler conversion
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,060
Remove the impeller. You can run it for a long time before the water jacket gets up to operating temperature.
Jeff F is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2021, 09:47 PM   #5
Guru
 
O C Diver's Avatar
 
City: Fort Myers, FL... Summers in Crisfield, MD
Vessel Name: Slow Hand
Vessel Model: Cherubini Independence 45
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,122
Quote:
Originally Posted by floater View Post
Why is it important to lube the cutlass bearing and shaft tube if the boat is in neutral and nothing is spinning?
An oil lubricated multi disc clutch will still turn on some transmissions from oil friction until the oil heats up and thins out. If the boat is in the water, have some one start it from cold while you're watching the propeller shaft coupling on the transmission. You'll probably see it turn.

Ted
__________________
Blog: mvslowhand.com
I'm tired of fast moves, I've got a slow groove, on my mind.....
I want to spend some time, Not come and go in a heated rush.....
"Slow Hand" by The Pointer Sisters
O C Diver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2021, 09:49 PM   #6
Veteran Member
 
City: toronto
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 38
Thanks for the tips and info. No boat yet but by the time I get one I should know just enough not to blow it up!
floater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2021, 10:10 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
lwarden's Avatar
 
City: San Diego
Vessel Name: North Star
Vessel Model: Lindell 36
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 199
I've installed a hose fitting and ball valve to the top of the RW strainer. You can run the engine all day long on it if you want, also good for flushing with Salt Away. There is some info on Seaboard Marine and a video. I made the modification myself by drilling and tapping into the cover then silver soldering in a bronze nipple.
__________________
North Star
Lindell 36, Twin 370hp Cummins
lwarden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2021, 10:21 PM   #8
Guru
 
Lou_tribal's Avatar
 
City: Quebec
Vessel Name: Bleuvet
Vessel Model: Custom Built
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4,271
On my boat I can run the engine for few seconds out of water but no more if I do not want to burn the impeller, water hose debit is not enough to cope with engine water pump debit.

L
Lou_tribal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2021, 10:23 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
City: Grand Rapids, MI
Vessel Name: Arcturus
Vessel Model: 1973 Concorde 41 DC
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff F View Post
Remove the impeller. You can run it for a long time before the water jacket gets up to operating temperature.
I do that all the time. I remove the impellers mainly so they don't take a set, but that does let me safely run the engines for a few minutes. Anytime I've done any work on them, and always just before launch. It's real embarrassing sitting in the launch well with a no start. I start them up and warm up a little, then shut down and install the impellers while I'm waiting for the travel lift.
jgwinks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2021, 11:10 PM   #10
Guru
 
rgano's Avatar
 
City: Southport, FL near Panama City
Vessel Name: FROLIC
Vessel Model: Mainship 30 Pilot II since 2015. GB-42 1986-2015. Former Unlimited Tonnage Master
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,290
Since my boat is on a lift, I run the engine out of the water every single time it returns to the lift. While still in the water but held in place by the lift with the engine running, I connect a freshwater hose to a tee in the raw water cooling line between the sea strainer and the raw water pump, turn on the water, and lift the boat out of the water, without shutting the seacock. There is enough freshwater flow to supply the engine for the few minutes it takes to rinse the system while letting excess flow out the open seacock via the strainer, rinsing them as well. I shut the water off just before shutting the engine down.
__________________
Rich Gano
FROLIC (2005 MainShip 30 Pilot II)
Panama City area
rgano is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 07:49 AM   #11
FF
Guru
 
FF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 21,948
Disconnect the sea water intake from its thru hull and stick it in a pail of water.

Keep the pail overflowing , any extra water will collect in the bilge , where it can be pumped overboard or run out thru the garboard drain.
FF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 08:12 AM   #12
Guru
 
Gabe n Em's Avatar
 
City: Wickford, RI
Vessel Name: Volans
Vessel Model: 2001 PDQ MV 32
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 563
Keep in mind these are all good tricks for running antifreeze through your engine when it comes time to winterize.

Our technique: close the seacock, remove the lid from the strainer, and adjust the house flow rate to keep the strainer full, start engine, keep filling the strainer.

Be mindful that the inlets on the old, big bronze strainers that are common here, are right at the top. So it's a delicate balance between running the impeller dry and sloshing a bunch of water on the sole
__________________
________________________________________
Gabe and Em.

Previously of "In Sanity" fame. A 40' Mainship from 1981.
Gabe n Em is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 08:12 AM   #13
Technical Guru
 
Ski in NC's Avatar
 
City: Wilmington, NC
Vessel Name: Louisa
Vessel Model: Custom Built 38
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 6,183
I close the sea cock, unscrew the top of the strainer, take out the basket and stick a garden hose in the hole. Crank engine and turn on the hose. Engine wants way more water than hose provides, but that is ok. Just need enough water to lube impeller and to provide some cooling spray in exhaust. Diesels make very little heat with no load so even providing a fraction of sea water pump flow capacity is fine.

If you want to bump it in gear, squirt some water in strut bearings and maybe a little Dawn for lube. If shaft is spun with dry bearing, it will raise hell.
Ski in NC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 11:06 AM   #14
Guru
 
Datenight's Avatar
 
City: Groton, CT
Vessel Name: Datenight
Vessel Model: North Pacific 45
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 796
How about this?

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=3882239

Might need to block it up to get good hull contact.

Rob
__________________
North Pacific 45
Datenight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 11:48 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Solly's Avatar
 
City: Solomons MD.
Vessel Name: Sun Runner
Vessel Model: 1985 Mainship 34 Trawler MK III
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 367
Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
Disconnect the sea water intake from its thru hull and stick it in a pail of water.

Keep the pail overflowing , any extra water will collect in the bilge , where it can be pumped overboard or run out thru the garboard drain.
+1 This what I do to winterize. Stick the hose in a bucket of antifreeze.
Solly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 12:06 PM   #16
Guru
 
Lou_tribal's Avatar
 
City: Quebec
Vessel Name: Bleuvet
Vessel Model: Custom Built
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4,271
Quote:
Originally Posted by Datenight View Post
How about this?

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=3882239

Might need to block it up to get good hull contact.

Rob
I tried one that I borrowed from the marina, the arm is adjustable so to block it between hull and ground. Works fine but again water is limited by the hose debit.
I have the same without the arm that one need to keep in contact with the hull.

L
Lou_tribal is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 12:16 PM   #17
TF Site Team
 
koliver's Avatar
 
City: Saltspring Island
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
I close the sea cock, unscrew the top of the strainer, take out the basket and stick a garden hose in the hole. Crank engine and turn on the hose. Engine wants way more water than hose provides, but that is ok. Just need enough water to lube impeller and to provide some cooling spray in exhaust. Diesels make very little heat with no load so even providing a fraction of sea water pump flow capacity is fine.

If you want to bump it in gear, squirt some water in strut bearings and maybe a little Dawn for lube. If shaft is spun with dry bearing, it will raise hell.


This is exactly what my mechanic did once my engines were ready for a test run, in the swap that I did with Tamd41s, having removed the pair of TMD40s.
The boat was on the hard at the time.
__________________
Keith
koliver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 02:20 PM   #18
TF Site Team
 
Comodave's Avatar
 
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Never Say Never
Vessel Model: President 41 DC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 11,829
A simple solution is a Sea Flush adapter. I use it to winterize the engines. Take the top off the strainer and remove the basket. Stick the Sea Flush in and have a 5 gallon bucket to draw the water in from. No modifications needed of no need to remove the impeller. It takes just a minute or two to do it.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
Comodave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 02:29 PM   #19
Guru
 
jleonard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solly View Post
+1 This what I do to winterize. Stick the hose in a bucket of antifreeze.
Me too. Have done it this way for 30 years.
__________________
Jay Leonard

New Port Richey,Fl
jleonard is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2021, 02:57 PM   #20
Guru
 
Xsbank's Avatar
 
City: Pender Harbour, BC
Vessel Name: Gwaii Haanas
Vessel Model: Custom Aluminum 52
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,797
Notice how long your engine takes to heat up at an idle at the dock? The thermostats are closed and there is no cooling from raw water taking place. If the impeller is removed or lubed, likewise the cutlass bearing, you don't need a cooling flow to do tests, unless the test will take longer than the coolant to heat.

If you block the wheel so it can't turn, you don't even need water, just pull the impeller. This protects the ground crew; just don't put it in gear.
__________________

__________________
Don't believe everything that you think.
Xsbank is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Trawler Port Captains
Port Captains are TF volunteers who can serve as local guides or assist with local arrangements and information. Search below to locate Port Captains near your destination. To learn more about this program read here: TF Port Captain Program





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012
×