|
|
02-25-2021, 10:47 PM
|
#1
|
Veteran Member
City: Black Creek
Vessel Name: Ttssang
Vessel Model: 1974 Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 39
|
Ford Lehman 120 Broken Exhaust Elbow Stud
I'm replacing my exhaust elbow and while removing it I broke one of the studs/bolts. Any advise on removing and replacing the stud? Thanks
|
|
|
02-25-2021, 11:21 PM
|
#2
|
Guru
City: Boston
Vessel Name: Adelante
Vessel Model: IG 30
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,609
|
Soak stud with PB Blaster. Apply heat to manifold. Rinse and repeat.
It looks as though you can get 2 nuts over what's left so be patient. Too much torque will break it off flush. Then you will have to drill it out and install helicoil.
I would probably put a nut on top to protect the threads, heat up manifold so it's a little too hot to touch, then spray PB Blaster, then tap nut with hammer. Keep repeating.
If you have a wire fed welder just weld a nut on top and heat should break it free.
|
|
|
02-25-2021, 11:42 PM
|
#3
|
Guru
City: Coupeville Wa.
Vessel Name: Pacific Myst
Vessel Model: West Bay 4500
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,413
|
I've had better results with Kriol https://www.kroil.com/ I prefer the version with silicone. Used to be called silikroil.
I once watched an older, very experienced, mechanic use heat then cold. It worked. He said it broke the rust loose.
Patience is important, don't get in a hurry and force it. Sometimes trying first to tighten it a tiny bit will break the rust bond. As soon as it twitches stop.
Once you get it moving a bit you may have to repeatedly tighten and loosen. Add more penetrant. Each iteration will move it a bit further until it comes out. Patience.
__________________
Some things are worth doing simply because they are worth doing.
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 12:26 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
City: Anacortes
Vessel Name: Selah
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 40
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 315
|
Some of us might be nervous about using a welder in the engine room, but you could unbolt the manifold and take it to a machine shop for removal and installation of a helicoil if necessary. Be very patient, I believe the manifolds are very difficult to find.
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 04:36 AM
|
#5
|
Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,565
|
Greetings,
__________________
RTF
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 04:41 AM
|
#6
|
Guru
City: Narragansett Bay
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 36 Classic #715
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,857
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly
Greetings,
|
If we could only learn such things at a young age
__________________
Carl
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 06:40 AM
|
#7
|
Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,037
|
I had the same problem. Nothing I did would allow me to remove the stud.
I removed the manifold, brought it my son's auto repair shop and he had it out in less than a minute.
Heated it cherry red, stuck a crayon on it to let the wax suck in between the stud and the manifold and put a vise grip on it and it easily spun out.
I tried heating it on the engine but the mass was too much for me to get it hot using what I had which was a map gas torch.
While it was out I had that end surface machined clean to get rid of the corrosion that was there in one location.
__________________
Jay Leonard
Ex boats: 1983 40 Albin trunk cabin, 1978 Mainship 34 Model 1
New Port Richey, Fl
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 09:34 AM
|
#8
|
Veteran Member
City: Black Creek
Vessel Name: Ttssang
Vessel Model: 1974 Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 39
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoWhat
Soak stud with PB Blaster. Apply heat to manifold. Rinse and repeat.
It looks as though you can get 2 nuts over what's left so be patient. Too much torque will break it off flush. Then you will have to drill it out and install helicoil.
I would probably put a nut on top to protect the threads, heat up manifold so it's a little too hot to touch, then spray PB Blaster, then tap nut with hammer. Keep repeating.
If you have a wire fed welder just weld a nut on top and heat should break it free.
|
There’s no threads left so I can’t get any nuts on. Those are marks from the vice grips. I’ve been using some heat and Liquid Wrench. I’m going to get a better pair of vice grips today and keep working at it. Thanks
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 09:35 AM
|
#9
|
Veteran Member
City: Black Creek
Vessel Name: Ttssang
Vessel Model: 1974 Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 39
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoWhat
Soak stud with PB Blaster. Apply heat to manifold. Rinse and repeat.
It looks as though you can get 2 nuts over what's left so be patient. Too much torque will break it off flush. Then you will have to drill it out and install helicoil.
I would probably put a nut on top to protect the threads, heat up manifold so it's a little too hot to touch, then spray PB Blaster, then tap nut with hammer. Keep repeating.
If you have a wire fed welder just weld a nut on top and heat should break it free.
|
I don’t have a wire welder but I will get some PB blaster today and keep patiently working at it.
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 09:36 AM
|
#10
|
Veteran Member
City: Black Creek
Vessel Name: Ttssang
Vessel Model: 1974 Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 39
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly
Greetings,
|
👍 thanks
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 09:42 AM
|
#11
|
Veteran Member
City: Black Creek
Vessel Name: Ttssang
Vessel Model: 1974 Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 39
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jleonard
I had the same problem. Nothing I did would allow me to remove the stud.
I removed the manifold, brought it my son's auto repair shop and he had it out in less than a minute.
Heated it cherry red, stuck a crayon on it to let the wax suck in between the stud and the manifold and put a vise grip on it and it easily spun out.
I tried heating it on the engine but the mass was too much for me to get it hot using what I had which was a map gas torch.
While it was out I had that end surface machined clean to get rid of the corrosion that was there in one location.
|
I’ll keep working at it but I might end up having to do the same. It’s in an awkward place and hard to get concentrated heat on it. Was it hard to get the entire manifold off?
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 09:42 AM
|
#12
|
Veteran Member
City: Black Creek
Vessel Name: Ttssang
Vessel Model: 1974 Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 39
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by av8r
Some of us might be nervous about using a welder in the engine room, but you could unbolt the manifold and take it to a machine shop for removal and installation of a helicoil if necessary. Be very patient, I believe the manifolds are very difficult to find.
|
Thanks, I might have to do that.
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 10:14 AM
|
#13
|
Guru
City: Boston
Vessel Name: Adelante
Vessel Model: IG 30
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,609
|
PB Blaster (or Kroil) and heat. Use a mapp gas torch. Once you get manifold hot, spray stud then tap it with hammer. It might take an hour or two. Acetylene torch would make quick work of it but guessing most of us don't have a portable setup.
Start soaking manifold to head studs in case you have to remove manifold.
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 10:25 AM
|
#14
|
Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,037
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttsaang
I’ll keep working at it but I might end up having to do the same. It’s in an awkward place and hard to get concentrated heat on it. Was it hard to get the entire manifold off?
|
No not hard didn’t take long but it’s heavy.
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 10:27 AM
|
#15
|
Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,565
|
Greetings,
You have to be VERY careful heating cast iron with acetylene. MAPP will work eventually IMO. As mentioned, patience. Might even take days!
__________________
RTF
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 10:28 AM
|
#16
|
Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,037
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoWhat
PB Blaster (or Kroil) and heat. Use a mapp gas torch. Once you get manifold hot, spray stud then tap it with hammer. It might take an hour or two. Acetylene torch would make quick work of it but guessing most of us don't have a portable setup.
Start soaking manifold to head studs in case you have to remove manifold.
|
No way mine was getting hot enough with just a map gas torch but it was in the winter in Ct and everything was ice cold.
Once I made the decision to remove the manifold I didn’t have more than 1 1/2 hours of labor into it for the complete Rand R
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 11:19 PM
|
#17
|
Veteran Member
City: Black Creek
Vessel Name: Ttssang
Vessel Model: 1974 Roughwater 35
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 39
|
Success
I was able to remove the stud today. It was a combination of PB Blaster, propane torch, wax and a stud extractor that I picked up from the parts store. I hit it with the PB, heated it for a long time and then touched the wax to the stud which sucked into the threads and slowly was able to move the stud back and forth with the extractor. Kept repeating this process with more movement each time and it eventually wound out.
|
|
|
02-26-2021, 11:38 PM
|
#18
|
Guru
City: US PNW
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 943
|
Sweet!
I'd never heard the wax tip. Read about it and now see how it worked all in the space of a few posts
|
|
|
02-27-2021, 12:29 AM
|
#19
|
Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,187
|
Good work, I also like PB Blaster.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
|
|
|
02-27-2021, 03:32 AM
|
#20
|
Enigma
City: Slicker?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,565
|
Greetings,
EXCELLENT!!!!!!!
__________________
RTF
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Trawler Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|