Side Power SP-95 Ti Lube Drains?

[jefndeb]

Question-

We have both bow & stern Side Power SP95 Ti thrusters (2006 Mainship 400) and they are on my list to service/inspect, reading the information on what is recommended, its looks basically to drain & refill the oil reservoir with T90 gear oil..that is no problem, other than i need to get a oil siphon of some sort maybe...

I also have noted some videos where there is a drain plug for lube drain on the unit accessed in the tunnel..(these videos may or may not be side power models but just wondering).....which is of course only done while on the hard, which isn't planned anytime real soon....hopefully

Are there two different lube reservoirs drains or is it the same just another drain port?

Anybody done this and have recommendations?

Here is what I have to go by..(attatched)

Jeff

 

[Bacchus]

Jeff
Been there - Done that!
Only one reservoir that gravity feeds the lower "gear leg" - One Drain in tunnel and need to remove prop(s) to access the plug. Goo dtime to relube the prop mounting & replace alum anode.

To do it effectively IMO it has to be done on the hard or short haul via the drain plug.
When I drained & refilled mine the first shot of lube was discolored / dirty and very clear after that. I pulled the inside lube tank to empty it but it can be done (slower" via the drain plug.
The way I read & interpret the IMTRA recommendation is to drain the oil that has been in the lower unit / gear leg allowing "fresh" / unused oil from the reservoir to replace what was in the gear leg and then simply "top off".
I changed the lube in my reservoir as it was factory fill - and approaching 10 yrs old - as far as I could tell.
I don't think there is any way to suck out the oil from the gear leg, while still in the water, but have never tried.

 

[Maerin]

Thruster service can't be completed in the water.



When you haul, you should remove the props, clean them, lube the shafts with good waterproof prop shaft grease or marine grease. I've had excellent results coating the props with PropSpeed, no need to prime them, just sand with 180 grit and clean/degrease meticulously.

When you have the props removed, you can inspect the seals. I use brake cleaner to clean the seal and the shaft thoroughly, then come back to inspect the following day or after several hours, depending on your haul task list. If you find ANY oil residue, change the seals. They're not expensive, and it's not a difficult job. You must be careful when removing the old seals not to damage the sealing surfaces on shaft or housing. No time to be ham-fisted.
I'd not bother to change the oil if your seals are OK. You can drop a bit out of the drain to check for water, if the oil's not milky, you may opt to defer an oil change to when it's time to change seals. I've changed my seals about every other haul out- so about 5 yrs on a seal set, give or take. Oil must be drained for a seal change, so no need to mess with the oil if you're not changing the seals.

Seals are available from local suppliers, you don't need to spend 3 prices for OEM seals, they're the same seals you get from the local supplier. Take an old seal along for the numbers or record the numbers on the existing seal if you can locate them on the seal. Should be on the metal face of the seal. Get a spare set so you have them on hand for the next haulout.
I made a tool to install the new seals out of PVC pipe and a bushing to enable me to keep the seal aligned while tapping it into place.