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Old 06-04-2018, 05:09 PM   #21
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30 and 50 amp plug cords
2 main engine batteries for twin diesels and 1 battery for gen.
3 aux batteries.
AC/DC norcold fridge.

I did have it surveyed and I can't find any reference to a inverter.
Survey says "wired for 110v "

I'm about 40 miles downstream from the marina and I can make it back up
this weekend, I was just hoping it was something simple and I could fix it
myself.
My experience with this large a boat is from the fall of 2017, I'm very pontoon
river savy but none of them had this many systems.
I appreciate any and all information.
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Old 06-04-2018, 05:27 PM   #22
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Hey that was me last year. The biggest boat I owned was a 20’ bow rider. Now we have a 31’ Mainship with two engines, an generator, and more systems than I thought were possible on a boat. I didn’t understand them at all. But once you figure it out, it’ll all make sense. Now we are under contract with a 47’ Marine Trader. I’m know I’ll be asking all kinds of similar questions again.

For our boat, the panel is labeled AC and DC. AC is for shore power and generator. DC is what can be run off the batteries which are charged by the alternators.

On the AC side are the big ticket items. That’s your stove, microwave, battery charger, water heater, AC’s outlets and also the fridge. Without the gen or shore power, they won’t work. The DC side will work anytime off the batteries. Running your mains will keep the batteries topped off.

The DC side has the little things like lights, fresh water pump, head, and also the fridge. So when on shore power, I run the fridge off that, the Ac side. When underway with the generator off, I run it off the dc side...off the batteries.

When underway if we need coffee, or a breakfast Sammy warmed in the microwave, the generator needs to be started.

I hope this helps a little! Don’t feel bad, it’s confusing.
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Old 06-04-2018, 05:32 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ctbarbarian View Post
30 and 50 amp plug cords
2 main engine batteries for twin diesels and 1 battery for gen.
3 aux batteries.
AC/DC norcold fridge.

I did have it surveyed and I can't find any reference to a inverter.
Survey says "wired for 110v "

Sounds like no inverter then. So anything that is plugged into a standard wall socket will not work unless you have your genny running or are on shore power. Interior lights will be 12v so will work fine and your fridge will work on either. There isn't a problem running the genny while you are running the boat when you need to run the AirCon. However, I would not run the genny just to keep your 110 outlets running for small loads.
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:04 PM   #24
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I need more time on my boat to learn it better,
I get so confused, easily on this electronics stuff.
I pull teeth and hurt people for a living,soon to be retired, this is a new learning experience for me.
Ha!....rest assured...your boat will eventually repay you for all the pain you caused others...Boat Karma!!
I have one frig that is 12v/120v, and one (icemaker/frig) that is 120v only...discovered that on the maiden cruise to home port when the ice started melting. Now if we are using the smaller frig, I just fire up the inverter while underway.
Enjoy the new ride!
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:07 PM   #25
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30 AND a 50 amp cord? Now that's a first for me.
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:07 PM   #26
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I need more time on my boat to learn it better,
I get so confused, easily on this electronics stuff.
I pull teeth and hurt people for a living,soon to be retired, this is a new learning experience for me.

Perhaps go to the Bayliner site and click on owners resources and then 'manuals"...
https://bayliner.com/owners-manual/

Put in your year (1988) then your model (Mty) and download the manual. These are not detailed as much as the later years but it will provide a general description of what is on the boat / where the stuff is / and a general wiring diagram.
Do you have gas engines or Diesel? Do you have engine manuals?
The rest you can pick up from other owners at the BOC.
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:09 PM   #27
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30 AND a 50 amp cord? Now that's a first for me.
There is a parallel switch inside and there are two AC units - 16KBTU and 12KBTU.
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:14 PM   #28
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There is a parallel switch inside and there are two AC units - 16KBTU and 12KBTU.
Are you sure you dont have two 30amp cords? One 30 amp cord for the A/Cs and the second amp 30 amp cord for the rest of the boat?
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:16 PM   #29
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We are all working on the assumption that hull valve is open.
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:18 PM   #30
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Are you sure you dont have two 30amp cords? One 30 amp cord for the A/Cs and the second amp 30 amp cord for the rest of the boat?
I am not the original poster - I am just familiar with these boats.
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:21 PM   #31
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I am not the original poster - I am just familiar with these boats.
I stand corrected.

On my AT, I have 2 30amp cords, one for the A/Cs, one for the house.
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:43 PM   #32
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I stand corrected.

On my AT, I have 2 30amp cords, one for the A/Cs, one for the house.
But you likely do not have a rotary switch that can parallel all the breakers from line one and line two inside the boat all from line 1.
That is what is in his boat - usually they came with two 30 amp lines.
But some models with A/C came with one 50/125 inlet on line one and a 30/125 inlet on line 2. Those that came that way also had the switch and wiring that could support the 50 amps on line one and paralleled.
So an owner could run a single line (50/125) and then turn the switch to get the 50 amps across both lines.
They would typically have a 30 to 50 amp adapter for those times that you wanted to run two 30 amp lines.
So you could easily run one 30, one 50 or two 30's dependent upon the dock you were visiting at the time and your needs.
There were also other options out there.
Note - much may have been changed in the 30 years since this boat left the factory.
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:04 PM   #33
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But you likely do not have a rotary switch that can parallel all the breakers from line one and line two inside the boat all from line 1.
That is what is in his boat - usually they came with two 30 amp lines.
But some models with A/C came with one 50/125 inlet on line one and a 30/125 inlet on line 2. Those that came that way also had the switch and wiring that could support the 50 amps on line one and paralleled.
So an owner could run a single line (50/125) and then turn the switch to get the 50 amps across both lines.
They would typically have a 30 to 50 amp adapter for those times that you wanted to run two 30 amp lines.
So you could easily run one 30, one 50 or two 30's dependent upon the dock you were visiting at the time and your needs.
There were also other options out there.
Note - much may have been changed in the 30 years since this boat left the factory.
On the AT, I have 2X30 amp shore power cord. I disconnect from shore power, transfer to the generator, I now have 50 amps available for the boat.

Sounds like greater flexibility if I understand what you wrote.
I will yield to your knowledge on this brand of boat. I will go sit in my corner AGAIN.
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:11 PM   #34
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yes, boat was painted a month ago.
I called the shop and asked any ideas about why
the bowls wouldn't pump water up.
The head shop guy told me "I bet that idiot kid painted
the holes shut "
I might need a haul out to clear them and I'm not paying
for their mistake.
I'd be wanting to know why they employ idiot kids and let them loose on your boat
And
Why they never supervised and inspected the work.

They are happy to charge full freight for a professional service yet didn't produce the goods.
What other dodgy work did they do?
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:11 PM   #35
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Sounds like greater flexibility if I understand what you wrote.
I will yield to your knowledge of MTs and go sit in my corner AGAIN.
Just familiar with the older models of one brand - kinda rubs off on you after a few years using them.
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:36 PM   #36
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Sounds like no inverter then.
There 3 possible options, as I see it.
1. learn to live with it.
2. install an independent inverter
3. install a combination charge/inverter.

Down the road, consider a separate main inverter and a smaller inverter for each TV and DVD player.

For my main inverter, it is a 1500amp. I can run the microwave or a couple of 120 vt outlets, one to run the coffee pot. In hind-sight, I would suggest 2000 or 2500 amp inverter. Because I only have a 1500 amp inverter, I have learned the true meaning of "load management." When the AC lamp goes out, the stove goes off, the microwave stops, I know I have to shed some of the AC load. LOL The hot water heater is the first to go.
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:00 PM   #37
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I like to start with basics. As previously mentioned by oldDan1943, check the seacocks and make sure they are open. If they are open then close them and pull,the hose. Open them to see if they pass water . If they don’t pass water then schedule a haul out with the yard and let them know why and that you won’t feel obligated to pay.

Don’t assume you are innocent until you have proven them guilty.
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:41 PM   #38
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The easiest way to check the raw water to the heads is to remove the hose from the through hull valve with the valve closed and then crack it open. If some water shows up its not painted closed. If it is painted closed, add a length of hose to the through hull to get the end above the water line and then take a stiff wire and run down the hose to break the paint lose on the input screen. The holes are pretty big so opening a couple with give you a fair amount of water. Happened to my old boat. Only took about 20 minutes to fix.

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Old 06-05-2018, 04:38 AM   #39
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IF there was water enough to fill the bowl before the hull was painted and afterwards not enough water, I agree, the first suspect is painting the inlet closed.
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Old 06-05-2018, 06:11 AM   #40
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Am I the only one who runs his genset while running?

Seems like people go through alot of trouble not to do so but when i'm not on shore power I'm almost always running the Genny.. doesn't bother me one bit.
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