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Old 10-26-2018, 03:50 PM   #21
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Greetings,
Welcome aboard eh?
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Old 10-26-2018, 03:53 PM   #22
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Can’t you remove that top section and fish it out? Or as others said, then rotate the gear until upside down and let it fall out?
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Old 10-26-2018, 04:28 PM   #23
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I've had mine out twice and apart once. The rear section is the reduction gear and shares oil with the tranny If you separate it, you'll have a mess. If you remove the top cover, all you really see is the reverse piston and the single reversing band. If I recall correctly, there is a small opening on one side into the oil reservoir on the bottom, but not very useful. Most of the removal advice here is good (the studs, the removal, etc.). I drilled a 5/8" hole in two of the overhead cabin purlins (the floor joists for the salon). Then I put a threaded rod through both and nutted the ends to keep it from moving. I used a Harbor Freight strap winch to support the trans. Put a bolt in each side threaded hole and stretch a chain between them. You can use the strap winch to lift or support very accurately. Once the tranny is loose of the flywheel, you can lift it up and lower it on a piece of plywood between the bunks. I cut a hatch opening through the aft bulkhead behind the removable stairs. After that it was simple to slide the trans to the stair area and relocate the strap winch across the companionway. I then lifted the trans into the salon and lowered it onto a piece of carpet and dragged it to the sliding door. A 2 X 4 through the chain allows you to lift it out the sliding door and onto the dock.
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Old 10-26-2018, 11:17 PM   #24
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I can't stress enough the help a frame and come-along, chain fall, or simple block and tackle will be. The tranny might 'only' weigh a 100 lbs. or so but it or you will be in a cramped, awkward position.
Your back will thank you.....
Plus it'll practically fall out. Getting it back in and the shaft aligned with the splines on the damper will teach you a whole new language. With only 2 hands and no help it's a good way to get hurt.
Or get a couple yard monkeys to yank it out. I say that with all respect to younger, healthier, stronger boat shop employees.
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Old 10-27-2018, 08:47 AM   #25
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Buy a new dipstick and cross your fingers, most likely it will just lie along the bottom.
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Old 10-27-2018, 08:56 AM   #26
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project preparation creep...


Be sure the deck is well supported under the crane legs, if you choose this route.


If equipped with wheels, there's a lot of force concentration.


I hate when the success of one job turns into the next job...
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Old 10-27-2018, 11:27 AM   #27
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Well, as some of you might remember, the dipstick fell into my transmission and retrieving it was not a success. I am not ready to remove the transmission to resolve this issue. Any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.

(Engine FL 120; tranny Paragon)
Just a thought... have you tried a specialty magnet? You might need to mfg [Rube Goldberg] your own. Depending on access hole/location that might save you a bunch of hassle. Good luck.
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Old 11-05-2018, 09:32 AM   #28
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I was able to remove the transmission yesterday. I started with the reduction box. Super easy. 6 bolts and the thing is not very heavy (maybe 30 lbs). For the transmission, I followed some of the advice I got here. I bought a threaded rod and cut 2 pieces of about 4 inches and put them in the bolts holes (the side ones). I also placed some pieces of 2x4 snug under the transmission to support the weight. Once all the bolts were removed, I simply slid it backwards slowly. The hard part was getting it out of the boat by myself. Small steps, a bit of planning and a lot of force was all it took!

Ok, so now the thing is in my garage and I am debating whether I should attempt to open it myself or bring it to a transmission guy. Looks like I could open it from the front or the rear. On the front side, there are two sets of bolts. Just want to make sure the if I decide to open it I choose the right route and don't get myself into too much trouble. Any advice?
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Old 11-05-2018, 10:28 AM   #29
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11 yrs. ago... what happened and what I did:


1977 port-side BW Velvet Drive trany had water leak into fluid. Removed trany and dropped off at trany shop I've been using for decades. No problem since! Cheap at 1/2 the price of possiably making an uninformed DIY mistake - IMO.
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Old 11-05-2018, 10:57 AM   #30
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You will need a complete gasket set, front and rear seals. If you do take it apart, might be a good idea to replace the clutch plates. I suspect most transmission shops will quote you a rebuild.
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Old 11-05-2018, 11:44 AM   #31
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Roll it on its side and shake it. See if the dipstick comes into view.
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Old 11-05-2018, 03:28 PM   #32
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re: opening her up

The front cover plate is the pump for the transmission. It is and Automatic. The rotational position of the pump determines the direction of rotation. You MUST match mark the cover before you take out those six bolts. If you take off the cover, you should throw a kit in it. They are available from Basic Power Marine and are around $100 as I recall. The kit has all of the seals, O-Rings, and gaskets necessary for disassembly and reassembly. Once the pump is off, you should see the clutch drum and reversing band. I think you can get at the sump.
Good Luck!
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Old 11-05-2018, 04:18 PM   #33
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Thanks Dave. Great info.I took a look at Basic Power Marine's site and it's a great source of parts for my transmission. When you talk about the 6 bolts on the front cover plate, are you talking about the ones on the outside or inside?
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Old 11-05-2018, 04:35 PM   #34
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Roll it on its side and shake it. See if the dipstick comes into view.
There is no substitution for experience.
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:03 PM   #35
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re: Paragon

They are the six inner bolts as shown in your picture. I'll try to post the manual again.
sorry, the file size is too large to upload.
Dave


p.s. Send me a pm and I'll send you the file if you're interested.
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Old 11-06-2018, 06:50 AM   #36
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Roll it on its side and shake it. See if the dipstick comes into view.
That might actually be a viable option. I think I will build a simple jig to support the transmission a few inches off my work bench so I can be able to roll it and lock it in place upside down. With a fishing tool and a small camera, I might be able to get it out through the top plate.
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Old 11-09-2018, 09:39 AM   #37
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Last night I built a stand to hold the transmission a few inches from my work bench. My plan is to turn it upside down and try to get the stick out the top plate (it's not possible to remove it completely but it opens up about an inch). With an inspection camera in the dipstick hole and a piece of steel wire in the drain plug, I should be able to move the stick close to the top plate opening so I can catch it with a grabber. Anyway, that's the latest plan!

That being said, I talked to a tech at Great Lakes Power Systems yesterday (American Diesel gave me their number). The guy was super nice and gave me a lot of info and tips. If the above mentioned plan doesn't work, I could try to open it myself. Removing the pump and the reverse band should give me access to the sump according to him. If that also fails, I won't have any other option than sending the transmission to them (lots of $$$ for shipping and the work).

Let's all hope plan A works.
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Old 11-10-2018, 01:43 PM   #38
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:34 AM   #39
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Well, as it turns out, plan A was a success! Once on the stand I was able to rotate the transmission upside down and open the top plate about an inch hoping gravity would help me out. However, the dipstick was nowhere to be seen. Even with an inspection camera I could not locate it. I decided to open the drain plug to explore from there. The thing was right there, aligned with the hole! I used a magnet to bring it close to the opening and then with a pair of long nose pliers I was able to finally get it out. Huge relief!

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and encouragement.
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:41 AM   #40
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Congrats!!
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