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Old 04-09-2017, 05:24 PM   #21
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I have twin 225 Lehmans. The starboard impeller is very difficult to change. The mechanic that had been doing work for 15 years for the PO said he had to pull the pump to replace the impeller. It is a bear to get out. I bought a Jabsco impeller puller. The supplied T handle would not turn due to hoses and pipes so I got some metric allthread and used double nuts on it to pull out the old impeller. Not too bad getting the old one out. The problem was getting the new one in. I got a tool from impellertool.com to insert the new impeller. It is an aluminum sleeve that you insert the impeller into. Then slide the sleeve into the pump and pull the sleeve out. I had to use a screwdriver to lever the sleeve out but it worked great. I then installed Speedseal covers on the pumps. I can now change the previously impossible impeller in about 20 minutes. The sleeve tool will get around the problem mentioned about vanes opening in the pump cavities since the sleeve goes all the way into the pump before you slide it out and leave the impeller in. It really is a great little tool. I woud not be able to change the impeller without it. No interest in any company mentioned, just very happy user.
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Old 06-06-2017, 02:48 PM   #22
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Just went back to re-read this thread following an impeller change on my Perkins T6.354's last week. Things went fairly smoothly, and my knuckles are healing nicely.

Still, I don't relish doing this job. The pump plate is buried deep in a maze of hoses and components, leaving barely enough room for a screwdriver, and no leverage at all for turning it to remove the slotted screws. Surely there's a better way!

My concern is that the screw heads will eventually strip out, and on one engine the only access leaves me doing some seriously painful boat yoga. Anything I can to do make the process quicker and more reliable will be a big improvement.

I see the Speedseal recommendation, but I'm wondering if the thumb screws will be any easier. I can barely get my hand in there, and twisting a screw with any useful torque might be a challenge. Perhaps a socket wrench with a hex bit would be feasible.

Should I just change out the bolts for hex heads?

Wondering if anyone else has made modifications to make this job easier.
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Old 06-06-2017, 04:00 PM   #23
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Greetings,
Mr. CT. I have not done it yet but I have purchased some SS socket head cap screws to replace the slotted ones on my Jabsco plate. NEXT change out I will replace the old slots...



As you can see there is some knurling around the top which SHOULD aid in initial insertion and tightening (HAH...Should).

I hear ya' on the healing knuckles brother...

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Old 06-06-2017, 04:02 PM   #24
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What size are those cap headed screws?
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Old 06-06-2017, 04:15 PM   #25
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Greetings,
Mr. Mk. I'm not on board now but I took one of the existing slot screws to the store and purchased replacements with the same thread and length. I hope they fit. 8-32 X 3/4" MAYBE???? Do NOT quote me on the size. I don't even know what day of the week it is without looking most times...

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Old 06-06-2017, 04:39 PM   #26
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Thanks! They're cheap enough that I'll order a set on line and see if they fit.
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Old 06-06-2017, 05:00 PM   #27
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Greetings,
Mr. Mk. Whoa, whoa....Do NOT order anything until you check the size of YOUR screws please. They could easily be 10-32's....I stressed, I can't remember the actual size.

There's a Fastenal store in Pompano Beach. Take one of your screws out and match it at the store.

https://www.fastenal.com/locations/details/flpom
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Old 06-06-2017, 06:17 PM   #28
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Unfortunately, my boat is not in Pompano at the moment. I did confirm via an online merchant that the Jabsco screws are 8-32x 3/8. So, I ordered a pack of 25 in 316 for $8 off eBay.
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Old 06-06-2017, 06:20 PM   #29
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OK.
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Old 06-06-2017, 06:21 PM   #30
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MK

Pack of 25? You drop things like I do.
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:24 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. Mk. Whoa, whoa....Do NOT order anything until you check the size of YOUR screws please. They could easily be 10-32's....I stressed, I can't remember the actual size.

There's a Fastenal store in Pompano Beach. Take one of your screws out and match it at the store.

https://www.fastenal.com/locations/details/flpom
Mine are metric.
4mm IIRC

Hex head too. A bag of screws. Cheap like Borscht.
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:34 AM   #32
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The whole idea of the Knurled screw heads on the Speedseal conversion is that you don't need spanners, they go hand tight, you don't need to remove any of the screws to change an impeller, once loosened the cover plate swings up out of the way to allow you to change the impeller.
I would though use a tiny drop of Loctite to prevent loosening by vibration.
I would also look at modifying the plumbing to give you easy access in case.
I would highly recommend the Speedseal 'Run Dry' conversion.
The mods are done precisely to reduce your consumption of Band aids, BUT when I skin my knuckles (and I often do) I use Norwegian Hand cream from your local chemist for quick healing of said skinned knuckles.
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:13 AM   #33
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RTF, that's exactly what I was considering. One question:

Is stainless a good idea?

I mean, I always go straight to the stainless section at the local hardware, but in this case I wonder. If something did go wrong, extracting a broken-off stainless bolt is nearly impossible.

My thought was to take one of the old ones out (the easiest one to reach, in hopes on only impacting one or two knuckles this time) and taking it to the hardware store for an exact match. And if it's carbon steel, I might decide to stay with that material, just change to a socket head.

Is the pump housing bronze, or just the cover plate? If so, is SS or carbon steel better?

Oh, and one more thing about Speedseal covers. I don't think there's room to flip mine up and out of the way. It's going to have to come off completely, so the slots in lieu of holes won't help me as much.
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:21 AM   #34
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Stainless in bronze is fine, especially if you are replacing an impeller every year or two. Been using mine for 4 years now and they come out like new every time, and I change the impeller every year at the 400 to 500 hour mark.

I have good access to my cover plate so I went with knurled head, allen wrench type machine screws (also known as socket caps).

I don't but you could leave the correct sized Allen wrench hanging within reach. Once the torque is cracked, you can finger loosen or tighten them.

Got this tip here years ago.

Sorry RTF, didn't see your pic above earlier.....good tip!

It takes enough time to get the impeller out that the one or two minutes for the screw removal is insignificant (if you have the allen wrench handy).
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:25 AM   #35
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Greetings,
Mr. CT. I think the original screws/bolts on ours are brass/bronze? Upon reassembly, with the old fasteners (hadn't purchased the new ones yet), I gave the threads a gloop of Super Lube to make subsequent removal easier. As to whether that will have any effect remains to be seen. I think if I experienced screw breakage the pump would have to come off in any case. Although it appears I may have more room to service our pumps, there is NO way I could fit a drill into the space.

I suspect the pump housing is bronze and the cover may be brass but I don't know for sure. In any case, I chose to go with SS.
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