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Old 10-07-2018, 10:46 AM   #81
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I wonder why the electric schema is showing a 5A fuse and I see these fuses to be all 35A? All these 3 fuses check out for connectivity. However, I can only measure 1.2-3V at the end, when I turn on the key. Can the schema be to a different model? Where is the 5A fuse?
The 3 fuses I found are listed under the AC regulator unit. The 5A fuse is shown between the solenoid and the AC regulator unit, on every schema I have. I just can't see it.
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Old 10-07-2018, 11:20 AM   #82
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They are NOT 35 amp fuses! One of them is 1 amp, one is a 30 amp and the middle one I cant read. The amp value is stamped into the endcap. ie 30A is a 30 amp fuse.
What does "insignificant ohms" mean? Less than 1? infinity?

What relay?
Seriously you need to get a marine electrician on board.
Your diagrams do not seem to match your generator.
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Old 10-08-2018, 12:41 PM   #83
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They are NOT 35 amp fuses! One of them is 1 amp, one is a 30 amp and the middle one I cant read. The amp value is stamped into the endcap. ie 30A is a 30 amp fuse.
What does "insignificant ohms" mean? Less than 1? infinity?

What relay?
Seriously you need to get a marine electrician on board.
Your diagrams do not seem to match your generator.
The first one, the 30A says on it ' relay '. The two other green ones are the same. Let's say they are 1A each. It is still confusing, because the drawings never show 1A fuse anywhere.

Yes, I am not an electrician. At this point, the boat is on anchor/off grid. It would extremely difficult for me to drag anyone to the boat in a tiny dinghy. Maybe some day. Till then, I am trying to do what I can to solve this issue.
I have purchased a portable generator and I am running it from propane. At least, I can have electricity, when I need it. It is not as noisy as the Perkins.

Maybe it is time to see, what the real schema is for this Perkins? The original bill with details includes 4 different schemas. The single schema, which lists the 5A fuse for the solenoid is from the standard manual, so it might not be appropriate.
I need to keep researching this.
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:21 AM   #84
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Check for dc power on terminals 2&3 on the ecu pmt1. if you have dc power. jump terminal 4 to terminal 5 and see if the fuel solenoid picks up.


PMTN Home
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Old 10-09-2018, 06:37 PM   #85
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Check for dc power on terminals 2&3 on the ecu pmt1. if you have dc power. jump terminal 4 to terminal 5 and see if the fuel solenoid picks up.
PMTN Home

Thanks. I'll do it tonight.
If the solenoid comes alive, what is next? Do I need a new PMTN ?
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Old 10-10-2018, 08:05 AM   #86
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Thanks. I'll do it tonight.
If the solenoid comes alive, what is next? Do I need a new PMTN ?



the pmtn can be configured a bunch of different ways but as best i can tell it looks like its set to a 36 sec on delay. we call it a fault protection timer. it allows the gen to come up to speed and oil psi/water temp to stabilize before arming. more than likely if you get it to run the timer will be bad. if you fallow the link i posted you can download the manual for the pmtn.



if you do find it bad. you can get a new one from the link below. Ive used with them for over 10 years and never had a single issue.

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Old 10-10-2018, 12:18 PM   #87
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Check for dc power on terminals 2&3 on the ecu pmt1. if you have dc power. jump terminal 4 to terminal 5 and see if the fuel solenoid picks up.PMTN Home

I think you have nailed it. I followed your instructions and it worked. There was DC power on #2/3. I jumped #4/5 and the solenoid received proper voltage.
With the jumper cable on, I was able to start the Perkins. It ran for a while, until the jump wire fell off. I used only a croc. clip to jump it. The vibration must have moved it.
Unfortunately, at the next step, I blew the 30A fuse, so it is no go for now. Since, I hard wired it the second time, when turned the key on to start, it blew the fuse. I am not sure, why it did not blow it at the first time?
Either way, I am going to buy new fuses today and I will also order a new PMTN.
Thank you for your help and I'd like to know your opinion, why the fuse blew only at the second time? I want to prevent this from happening again.
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Old 10-10-2018, 01:18 PM   #88
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going by the print. its the an l1 ac power fuse. its possible your jump momentarily touched it and popped it.
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Old 10-10-2018, 03:02 PM   #89
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going by the print. its the an l1 ac power fuse. its possible your jump momentarily touched it and popped it.
New unit on its way for around $130 with shipping. It is called ECU-PMT2 now.
I'll stock up on fuses today.
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Old 10-10-2018, 04:27 PM   #90
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New unit on its way for around $130 with shipping. It is called ECU-PMT2 now.
I'll stock up on fuses today.
Make sure to download the manual for and double check the connections and dip switch settings. You definitely want to make sure you have at least two spares for every fuse on the boat. I use the clear water tight Plano tackle box's on my service truck. They do a good job especially considering how much abuse they get.
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:52 PM   #91
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Make sure to download the manual for and double check the connections and dip switch settings.
When I called in to order the new controller, the lady was laughing how old my unit was. They have technical support, if I needed any help with the configuration. I also took close pictures of the existing pin layout.

This morning, I ran the Perkins for 2 hours strait. Although, I had to remove the solenoid, so it could start, but there was not any problem with the generator. No overheating, oil pressure in place and most of the time handled the loads gracefully. I went up to ' absorb charge ' with my batteries, so it was not bad.
I am wondering about the controller being the problem for the original issue, which was the Perkins shutting down after 10+ minutes run and it would not start for few hours? Or, it can still be the solenoid?
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:24 PM   #92
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Could it be as simple as bad connectors?

I have had similar intermittent ongoing issue for two years, not that much of a problem as I have big solar, but I have traced and checked again an again and now believe its spade connectors in wiring harness.

I can squeeze the connectors tight, problem goes away for a few weeks but comes back so now I am getting rid of the spades and using a wire connecting strip.



Yes, I know there are probably better things to use but its what I have onboard and it'll be more secure than spades.
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:37 AM   #93
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When I called in to order the new controller, the lady was laughing how old my unit was. They have technical support, if I needed any help with the configuration. I also took close pictures of the existing pin layout.

This morning, I ran the Perkins for 2 hours strait. Although, I had to remove the solenoid, so it could start, but there was not any problem with the generator. No overheating, oil pressure in place and most of the time handled the loads gracefully. I went up to ' absorb charge ' with my batteries, so it was not bad.
I am wondering about the controller being the problem for the original issue, which was the Perkins shutting down after 10+ minutes run and it would not start for few hours? Or, it can still be the solenoid?
Lol they are good people and go out of there way to help. They even put on a free ats class for the company I used to work for.

Good to hear it's running normally.

It's definitely a possiblity the controller was having intermittent problems. I have replaced more than a few over the years that had random faults.
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:42 AM   #94
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Could it be as simple as bad connectors?

I have had similar intermittent ongoing issue for two years, not that much of a problem as I have big solar, but I have traced and checked again an again and now believe its spade connectors in wiring harness.

I can squeeze the connectors tight, problem goes away for a few weeks but comes back so now I am getting rid of the spades and using a wire connecting strip.



Yes, I know there are probably better things to use but its what I have onboard and it'll be more secure than spades.

Bad connections are totally possible. But they generally can be found through close visual inspection and other types of tests. One this that I have learned through doing switch gear PM's is just how loose terminal connections can get. I never would have thought a connection would loosen up in a static piece of gear.
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Old 10-29-2018, 02:58 PM   #95
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It's definitely a possiblity the controller was having intermittent problems. I have replaced more than a few over the years that had random faults.
It seems that the controller was the bad. This weekend I have finally installed the new one and did a test run. Solenoid in place and just ran it for 20 minutes without load. After, I put the load on to charge the batteries for about 10 minutes, and finally another 10 minutes without load. So, total of 30 minutes, no shut down.
I will run more tests in a week or two, once I am on anchor again. That will be the real test, of course. At this point, I am on shore power.

One thing to mention, while I was running the Perkins on hook. Of course, the controller was not functioning properly, as we know now. However, what was strange that I could not charge up the batteries completely. I ran the Perkins everyday. 1-2 hours in the evening and 1-2 hours in the morning. It reached the ' Bulk Charge ' stage fine, but never the ' Floating Charge ' stage. Of course, it never reached the completely charged position.
I don't know, if this was related to the controller problems?
I was on a trip for 10 days and everything was turned off on board, except the anchor light. I have two banks, so it was enough. The voltage was down to 11.7V on the batteries. I tried to charge them up all week, but I could only bring them to 12.2V I am just curious, if this has anything to do with the controller? I guess, I'll find out in about two weeks, once I return from my second trip.

At least, I don't have to remove the solenoid anymore, to run the Perkins.
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Old 10-29-2018, 04:57 PM   #96
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Are you charging your batteries with the charger in a inverter? If so I would review the owners manual for it . Calculate how many amps can safely be used according to the total amp hours of the battery bank then see how many amps are now being used to charge them.

I did this and discovered that I wasn't putting in nearly as much as they were capable of accepting. Also, a two hour charge was not long enough to fully charge them if they have gotten below 50% discharged. 11.7 volts is only about 30% charged.
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Old 10-29-2018, 05:05 PM   #97
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Are you charging your batteries with the charger in a inverter? If so I would review the owners manual for it . Calculate how many amps can safely be used according to the total amp hours of the battery bank then see how many amps are now being used to charge them.

I did this and discovered that I wasn't putting in nearly as much as they were capable of accepting. Also, a two hour charge was not long enough to fully charge them if they have gotten below 50% discharged. 11.7 volts is only about 30% charged.
Yes, the charge goes through a 2700W inverter. The inverter is a good brand and everything works fine from shore power. Saturday, when I connected to shore power, the batteries were full in 2-3 hours.
Again, I will need to test the alternator more, before I can make the final statement. The generator is a 7.5KW Perkins, so it should charge my banks easily. I think.
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:09 PM   #98
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Are you sure the inverter/charger is in charge mode with the generator running? 12.2 volts is too low. It should be about 14.5 depending on the settings.
When you say it reaches full charge with shore power in a few hours again says there is something wrong when using the generator. The generator should be the same as shore power.
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:44 PM   #99
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It seems that the controller was the bad. This weekend I have finally installed the new one and did a test run. Solenoid in place and just ran it for 20 minutes without load. After, I put the load on to charge the batteries for about 10 minutes, and finally another 10 minutes without load. So, total of 30 minutes, no shut down.
I will run more tests in a week or two, once I am on anchor again. That will be the real test, of course. At this point, I am on shore power.

One thing to mention, while I was running the Perkins on hook. Of course, the controller was not functioning properly, as we know now. However, what was strange that I could not charge up the batteries completely. I ran the Perkins everyday. 1-2 hours in the evening and 1-2 hours in the morning. It reached the ' Bulk Charge ' stage fine, but never the ' Floating Charge ' stage. Of course, it never reached the completely charged position.
I don't know, if this was related to the controller problems?
I was on a trip for 10 days and everything was turned off on board, except the anchor light. I have two banks, so it was enough. The voltage was down to 11.7V on the batteries. I tried to charge them up all week, but I could only bring them to 12.2V I am just curious, if this has anything to do with the controller? I guess, I'll find out in about two weeks, once I return from my second trip.

At least, I don't have to remove the solenoid anymore, to run the Perkins.

Glad to hear it's back running like it should..



As for the charger issue. It's unlikely that they are related. In my experience with our starting systems. When a charger stays in high rate charge it's due to a bad battery or the charger is faulty.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:07 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by LeoKa View Post
It seems that the controller was the bad. This weekend I have finally installed the new one and did a test run. Solenoid in place and just ran it for 20 minutes without load. After, I put the load on to charge the batteries for about 10 minutes, and finally another 10 minutes without load. So, total of 30 minutes, no shut down.
I will run more tests in a week or two, once I am on anchor again. That will be the real test, of course. At this point, I am on shore power.

One thing to mention, while I was running the Perkins on hook. Of course, the controller was not functioning properly, as we know now. However, what was strange that I could not charge up the batteries completely. I ran the Perkins everyday. 1-2 hours in the evening and 1-2 hours in the morning. It reached the ' Bulk Charge ' stage fine, but never the ' Floating Charge ' stage. Of course, it never reached the completely charged position.
I don't know, if this was related to the controller problems?
I was on a trip for 10 days and everything was turned off on board, except the anchor light. I have two banks, so it was enough. The voltage was down to 11.7V on the batteries. I tried to charge them up all week, but I could only bring them to 12.2V I am just curious, if this has anything to do with the controller? I guess, I'll find out in about two weeks, once I return from my second trip.

At least, I don't have to remove the solenoid anymore, to run the Perkins.

Good to hear the genny seems to be back in order.



If the batteries are flood lead acid, are they topped up with distilled water and all of the connections clean? I like to start with the basic easy stuff and work forward to the pain in the rear stuff. The easy stuff can be easy to over look when you've been having other major charging troubles. It sucks to beat your head on a problem just to realize it's a bad connection or low electrolyte levels in the battery.
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