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Old 10-02-2018, 07:13 PM   #61
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This does not make sense to me. The solenoid is either power to run or power to shutdown. Since you now have to shut it down with a stick says power to shutdown. But if that was true and the solenoid power was bad, the engine would run forever.

Unless a sensor was going bad and telling the solenoid to shut the engine down. Or worse, an actual bad engine condition causing the engine to shutdown. So what your mechanic did was effectively bypass all of the protective trips. Ok for troubleshooting but a disaster waiting to happen if something bad exists.

So while the engine was running:
Adequate water flow out of the exhaust?
Coolant temp normal on gauge?
Exhaust riser temp <200F?
Normal oil pressure on gauge?
I am confused, too. The mechanic had limited time, so he could not continue. I was not on the boat, so I don't know the answers to your questions. I'll be there tonight and I can run it, but I don't want something bad to happen. If I do run it for a short time, I could look up the results.

The mechanic said that there is no power to the solenoid whatsoever. The solenoid was functioning fine removed and connected to a battery directly, but not on the gen. It does not get power.
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:31 PM   #62
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It least you ruled out fuel and injector problems. I would have hoped that the mechanic checked those parameters while the engine was running but you can't assume he did.
Do you have a manual and does it have a wiring diagram? Posting a copy of the diagram here would help.
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Old 10-02-2018, 07:47 PM   #63
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I’m watching this closely. I have generator issues right now going on.Mine is shutting down after about three minutes. It will start right back up and then shut down in 2 to 3 minutes. The solenoid is staying locked in but still the engine is shutting down. I put a new solenoid on a couple years ago. I’m changing all fuel filters this weekend and ruling out fuel problems. I replaced my exhaust water temperature sensor last year when I installed new exhaust elbow. It ran six straight hours the day before it started this then the next morning it started acting up.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:09 PM   #64
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Marty, you say the solenoid stays locked down while the engine stops? If that is so, it sounds as if there is something wrong with the control circuit because one would think the solenoid would open when the engine sputters to a stop.

I had an Onan with a centrifugal switch, and oil pressure switch and a heat sensor switch in series with each other, and any one of the three could make the unit shutdown which caused the solenoid to close the fuel line. The way I troubleshot them was to bypass each of them one at a time by connecting a test wire around them to see if the engine would run without it in the circuit.

Otherwise it is a fuel supply issue which shuts the engine down which in turn shut off the hold-open current to the solenoid stopping the engine.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:21 PM   #65
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Marty, you say the solenoid stays locked down while the engine stops? If that is so, it sounds as if there is something wrong with the control circuit because one would think the solenoid would open when the engine sputters to a stop.

I had an Onan with a centrifugal switch, and oil pressure switch and a heat sensor switch in series with each other, and any one of the three could make the unit shutdown which caused the solenoid to close the fuel line. The way I troubleshot them was to bypass each of them one at a time by connecting a test wire around them to see if the engine would run without it in the circuit.

Otherwise it is a fuel supply issue which shuts the engine down which in turn shut off the hold-open current to the solenoid stopping the engine.
No it stays locked in until engine completely quits then it opens.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:51 PM   #66
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Oh, ok, my misunderstanding. What you describe is what I would consider normal for a control/protection circuit induced shut-off. Can you access the switches which shut your unit down and wire around them temporarily to test each one?
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:32 PM   #67
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...We have checked the batteries several times. The voltage was normal 12.4V
They are also charged from shore power, as it is now.
Probably irrelevant to the issue, but 12.4V batts is not normal. Voltage is not a perfect test but "full" is 12.6V or above.
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:05 PM   #68
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Do you have a manual and does it have a wiring diagram? Posting a copy of the diagram here would help.

I took some photos last night.
The mechanic said he had run it for 45 minutes and did not see a problem.
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:49 PM   #69
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Probably irrelevant to the issue, but 12.4V batts is not normal. Voltage is not a perfect test but "full" is 12.6V or above.

I will check it again today. The 12.4V was after sitting on anchor for an hour or more and the the main engine would not start. So, we checked the voltage. The problem was something with the Matthew control system, not the batter.
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Old 10-03-2018, 02:26 PM   #70
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find and check the 5 amp fuse shown in the last picture. It may be hiding in the gray control terminal box.
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Old 10-04-2018, 10:37 AM   #71
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find and check the 5 amp fuse shown in the last picture. It may be hiding in the gray control terminal box.
Well, I tried last night. I just could not.
The solenoid has one wire connected to it with a number '3' on it. I followed the wire to the gauge box, but all I can see that it comes in on connection rail third position, goes around and ends at the ECU-PMT1 box connection number five. You can see it on the photos I attach. I removed the ECU box, but it is sealed. There is nothing I can see inside of it. The gauges are getting power from the same source just fine. If that 5A fuse is in there, I need to buy a new box. It does not make sense to have the fuse there, but I cannot see it anywhere else on the engine.
Let me know what do you think?
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Old 10-04-2018, 10:39 AM   #72
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Probably irrelevant to the issue, but 12.4V batts is not normal. Voltage is not a perfect test but "full" is 12.6V or above.
I checked the voltage on the Magnum charger/inverter remote display and is is showing 12.5-12.6V steadily on shore power. The cranking batteries are included in this on shore power. I see 12.5V on the cranking batteries directly.
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Old 10-05-2018, 05:22 PM   #73
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Well, I tried last night. I just could not.
The solenoid has one wire connected to it with a number '3' on it. I followed the wire to the gauge box, but all I can see that it comes in on connection rail third position, goes around and ends at the ECU-PMT1 box connection number five. You can see it on the photos I attach. I removed the ECU box, but it is sealed. There is nothing I can see inside of it. The gauges are getting power from the same source just fine. If that 5A fuse is in there, I need to buy a new box. It does not make sense to have the fuse there, but I cannot see it anywhere else on the engine.
Let me know what do you think?
in the first picture, those 3 white rectangles are fuse holders. pull the fuses one at a time and test each for continuity. I think the top one would be the prime suspect.
I doubt you need a new box.
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Old 10-05-2018, 05:33 PM   #74
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in the first picture, those 3 white rectangles are fuse holders. pull the fuses one at a time and test each for continuity.
I doubt you need a new box.
Yes, the ones that have "pull" on them. They are glass tube fuses beneath.
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Old 10-05-2018, 05:55 PM   #75
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Well, here is some result. I hired a diesel mechanic and he traced it down to the solenoid.
First, the solenoid is not getting power. He traced the wire back to the instrument panel and out of 3 yellow wires, this one does not get any. The two others do. He said that this wire goes to a control unit, so that has to be investigated next time.
He removed the solenoid and the engine runs fine. It ran it for half an hour and there was no shut down. Obviously, it has to be shut down manually now with a stick, since the turn on/off key controls the solenoid.
I know this is strange and might not makes sense, why was it running before, but shutting down after 10 minutes.
Any clue or input will be appreciated.
From post #57:
The yellow wires labeled #3 should all be connected together. Meaning there should be continuity at every end to every other end of #3. If not then the wire is broken somewhere.
With everything powered down, check the continuity between terminal block and that quick connect terminal for the solenoid for wire #3.
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Old 10-05-2018, 06:21 PM   #76
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From post #57:
The yellow wires labeled #3 should all be connected together. Meaning there should be continuity at every end to every other end of #3. If not then the wire is broken somewhere.
With everything powered down, check the continuity between terminal block and that quick connect terminal for the solenoid for wire #3.
Thank you. I will do it this weekend.
I was afraid to pull those, because they looked to big for a fuse. Plus, wire #3 goes around them. It is more clear now. I hope that one of them is bad and I can replace that for success. I'll report back.

I tried to buy the solenoid online, but I cannot locate it anywhere. Some on the eBay are similar, but there is no part number to identify it. I cleaned the paint off it and I could see this number: MV1-17 740. Nothing else. The company on the photos is out of business, so I am not sure where to get solenoid for a Perkins 100 series engine, which was built in 1985? I understand that the solenoid could be just fine, but I always like to have backup of things.

Same applies to the oil pressure sender, which is dead. The gauge is fine, but does not show anything. At the oil/filter change, the mechanic used his own gauge directly on the engine and the oil pressure was fine. It would be nice to know a source, which sells parts for old engines like this.
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Old 10-06-2018, 04:52 PM   #77
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I have opened those switches and found fuses. However, none of them is 5A. They are 35A. I am not sure, if that is correct, or do I need to keep looking?
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Old 10-06-2018, 05:23 PM   #78
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Check them
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Old 10-06-2018, 08:44 PM   #79
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Check them
I'll get insignificant Ohm readings. The relay does not show anything.
The relay is on the top and the two identical 35A fuses are 2nd and 3rd.
Here are the photos.
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Old 10-06-2018, 10:40 PM   #80
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On those fuses you won't really get an ohms reading other than almost zero. You will get either zero ohms or overload.
-Zero or close is good. CLose is a few ohms like a couple since your probes sometimes can cause that.
-Overload or very high ohms means a blown fuse.





As for the oil pressure sw. you do not/should not need that specific part number. Lots of similar switches around. THere may be a pressure stamped or marked on the body by pulling it. Just find a similar unit at a good auto parts store, chandlery or a truck repair/parts place.

I will say the same for the relay. Try googling that ,mfgr name and p/n and you might find the ratings for it and then look at other mfgrs. as there almost positively will be another , just from a different mfgr. Or contact a generator repair place telling them what you have including a photo if need be. Have the gen model , serial and mfgr name handy as they may/most likely will a have a substitute.
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