Perkins 6.354M valve clearance discrepancy
- Thread starter nauticlew
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Xsbank
Guru
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2013
- Messages
- 3,791
- Location
- Canada
- Vessel Name
- Gwaii Haanas
- Vessel Make
- Custom Aluminum 52
It's very difficult doing valves hot as by the time you get one end done the temperature is changed. Logically, without any more information, I would do them cold. Check the dates on the books, I would prefer the shop manual as the specs might have changed over time.
Jeez, I should run for office! All those words and very little said. DO you all feel better for it? Maybe sometimes a Tweet IS better!
Jeez, I should run for office! All those words and very little said. DO you all feel better for it? Maybe sometimes a Tweet IS better!
Edelweiss
Guru
You didn't say what Year/Range engines, but the 70's 6.354M N/A engine was spec'd at .012" both Intake/Exhaust and to be performed while the engine is cold.
The Perkins mechanic who demonstrated adjusting the valves for me also said, better to error on the loose side than too tight. Using a feeler gauge isn't an exact science and can vary slightly between people. So a little too tight isn't better in this case.
Edelweiss
Guru
He said you could use the starter to do one or two in a pinch, but didn't recommend it. Too hard on the starter solenoid (which are flakie on those engines) and not accurate enough. He rolled the engine back and forth a little just to ensure the lifter was off the cam lobe.
He used about a 20" long handled 3/4" ratchet drive and socket on the crank bolt (don't remember the bolt size, it's huge). He said some people use a breaker bar, but he didn't because he thought it was dangerous if someone should kick the starter. I use a 1/2 ratchet with a 12" handle extension to gain a little leverage and it works fine. I turn the battery switch off anyway.
The trickiest part is holding the adjusting screw still while tightening the lock nut. Be sure to recheck the clearance after locking the screw tight.
He used about a 20" long handled 3/4" ratchet drive and socket on the crank bolt (don't remember the bolt size, it's huge). He said some people use a breaker bar, but he didn't because he thought it was dangerous if someone should kick the starter. I use a 1/2 ratchet with a 12" handle extension to gain a little leverage and it works fine. I turn the battery switch off anyway.
The trickiest part is holding the adjusting screw still while tightening the lock nut. Be sure to recheck the clearance after locking the screw tight.
Last edited:
STB
Guru
I know this is an old thread, but I was just looking for this info when I noticed the same "discrepancy" in some postings. I figured I'd answer it anyway, just in case someone else stumbles across it in the future.
It depends upon the version of the engine. This table from Foley Engines is nice:
-- https://www.foleyengines.com/tech-tip-10-torque-values-and-valve-settings/
It depends upon the version of the engine. This table from Foley Engines is nice:
-- https://www.foleyengines.com/tech-tip-10-torque-values-and-valve-settings/
FF
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 22,552
"Using a feeler gauge isn't an exact science and can vary slightly between people."
For folks new to the game, the easiest is a "go-no go" technique.
If the requirement is for 12 tho an 11 thou blade should be an easy fit , a 13 thou blade a hard fit.
For folks new to the game, the easiest is a "go-no go" technique.
If the requirement is for 12 tho an 11 thou blade should be an easy fit , a 13 thou blade a hard fit.
River Cruiser
Guru
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2013
- Messages
- 1,357
- Location
- US
- Vessel Name
- Northern Lights II
- Vessel Make
- Bayliner 3870
I always used the go / no go feelers on Detroit diesels. No reason they can’t be used on other valve lash adjustments.
