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Old 10-02-2020, 04:35 PM   #21
City: Chesapeake, VA
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 18
Well, this answer is a week or so late, but may come in handy for some other things (like replacing bellows) or perhaps helping someone else.....

It’s easy to get access to the corroded water elbow that gave you problems without removing the drive from the boat, and here’s how:

- drain the oil from the drive (it probably needs changing anyway)
- remove the shift linkage cover from the rear top of the drive and unhook the vertical shift link rod that goes from the shift cable attachment up to the shift bell crank (one cotter pin)
- remove the two stainless Allen screws that hold the “steering helmet” to the upper gear case, and push the helmet forward out of the way
- remove the large rearmost hose clamp on the U joint bellows
- remove the two Allen screws at the rear of the upper gear box ( coming up from underneath ) and the two nuts on the side of the upper gearbox....the upper box is now free from the rest of the drive
- smack the side of the upper box with your palm or a rubber mallet and pick the box up off of the drive, twisting it 90 degrees so the splined shaft clears the center section of the drive. Take care of the shims that might stick to the upper box and place them in their normal place in the center section for safe keeping
- pull the box aft and !presto! You have the upper box off and great access to the water feed elbow or to changing the u joint bellows.
- lay a thin piece of plywood on the top of the center section of the drive so “stuff” doesn’t drop down into the drive

Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, except that you use sealant between the center and upper sections of the drive and you need to position the hose clamps that you removed in the exact position that they occupied when you took them off. Otherwise there is the chance of damaging the u joint bellows....

Hope it’s helpful.

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Old 10-05-2020, 12:16 PM   #22
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City: Chocowinity, (Cypress Landing) NC
Vessel Name: Boatwright
Vessel Model: Camano 31
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 129
Similar problem solved on TAMD41P-A

I had a similar problem - RPM past 3000 drove the temp above the 191 degree specs, so I backed off. My excellent mechanic checked out the exhaust system and found a clog of heavy, wet black stuff partially blocking the system. He dug it out, replaced that hose.

Next time out I ran the RPM up slowly, reaching WOT in specs - about 3775 - and the temp stayed under 190 and when slowing to 7kt the temp fell very quickly to 165. I ran several segments of WOT of 15 min or more that week, and had the same outcome, SOG both ways at 14.8kt at WOT. I suspect too many hours below 3000 RPM for years with no RPM close to WOT are at fault (i.e., ...."My Fault".)

Aside from that problem and fix, I am completely pleased with the Volvo engine and transmission. Runs great, especially with consecutive fuel loads of ValveTect diesel - silky smooth.

This may not be the same problem as with your engine, but this was the problem and solution for mine.

Passagemaker contributor Steve Zimmerman has written several articles about engine RPM, % of effort, fuel burn, engine life, etc., all worth researching. I've been planning to take his diesel mechanics course at Trawlerfest, but COVID got in the way. The class I took from him on selecting a boat, etc., was outstanding - 2016, Kents Island Trawlerfest. We'll take the Boaters' University series this fall including a diesel mechanics course.

Best wishes for an inexpensive and effective solution to your engine problem!

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Old 10-05-2020, 01:23 PM   #23
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City: Victoria BC
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 30
Howdy folks, I'm back!

Well, I went ahead with the through-hull/ball valve installation, reassembled & reinstalled all the the major components (tricky, as some of the specialized O-rings are simply no longer available, anywhere at any price, so I had to re-use some of the 30-year-old originals, smearing them with generous amounts of black marine silicone), and put the boat back in the water.

It started to warm up quickly (which it has never done) and came up to about 165*F in just a few minutes. I did check the in-and-out hoses & pipes from the heat exchanger, and there was a very marked difference in temperature, so that was good.

It got up to 170*F and I was holding my breath, especially when I pushed up the throttle & took her up to about 4K RPM briefly. The temp got up to about 172*....and stayed there. I brought it down to about 3650 RPM (my usual cruising speed, about 22.8 kts) and the temperature never varied. As soon as I brought her back down to idle, she cooled to about 165*F and stayed there. I couldn't get her to go over 172*F, even coming up out of the hole & onto a plane, so I THINK I've fixed it.

No leaks far!

Wish me luck....

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