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Old 05-29-2020, 11:33 AM   #101
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Perhaps I read one of your earlier posts wrong, but I was under the impression that you had the typical J&Ts which were rated way up in the 200s or higher. Its strange that you have a belt driven raw water pump also - is that a J&T signature?
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Old 05-29-2020, 11:40 AM   #102
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Perhaps I read one of your earlier posts wrong, but I was under the impression that you had the typical J&Ts which were rated way up in the 200s or higher. Its strange that you have a belt driven raw water pump also - is that a J&T signature?
No these are just 671N motors, no turbo or anything. They should be pretty long lived as is. I haven't seen any other 671 with belt driven raw water pump, I think it's fairly unique but it is the way J&T did them
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Old 08-22-2020, 05:35 PM   #103
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sbman ... I left you a PM on THT ... I'm all caught up now reading your three different threads here ... a seriously impressive effort you have mustered I gotta' say ... so, moving onward ... back in your post #82 in this thread, you spoke about re-usable hydraulic fittings and bulk hydraulic hose for your fuel, oil and trans cooler lines ... would you mind elaborating on the brand name(s) of the hose / fittings and / or the name of the hose shop that figured out what worked with what for you? Up here in Vancouver, Canada, I have Green Line or New Line to deal with ... I just can't seem to find what I need with them.

I have the identical boat (mine's a '79) & near identical engines as you (Industrial 6-71N engines [white in color] marinized by PACIFC DIESEL POWER CO., with San Juan Engineering (/ Seakamp) h.e.'s and rear-mounted, gear-driven JABSCO raw water pumps) ...

I'm going to make some changes to my existing engine oil pan-mounted quick-drain valves ... currently I have mis-matched 1/2" F/F NPT brass ball valves (plugged by clear silicone-sealed 1/2" M NPT carbon steel plugs [3/8" dr. sq. int.]), each mounted to 1/2" M/M NPT brass nipples in the oil drain holes of my oil pans ... I have found I cannot get near the outboard (left side) mounted quick-drain valve on my Port engine and (once I've battled to reach it once and drain the engine oil) want to run a length of steel-braid hose from a 90 (swivel?) fitting at the oil pan drain hole (Port engine ... and perhaps a straight fitting / shorter length of hose for the Stbd engine, whose inboard [left side] pan drain hole is far easier to access in the e.r. aisle).

I have not decided exactly how to terminate these hoses in the e.r. aisle ... there are some pretty slick oil change systems available ... i.e. GROCO ($1K USD) or X-Change-R ($649USD) ... however, perhaps I'll just stick with (plugged, for security) ball valves at the hose termination points in a convenient spot in the e.r. aisle. I do have a JABSCO 17800-2000 bucket-mounted oil change system (it was used with a 1/4" x 40" dipstick probe that I now cannot locate) whose pump could be easily adapted to draw / drain and pump used engine oil from the un-plugged ball valves at the hose ends into empty 5 gallon pails as required.

What kind of an engine oil drain system did you elect to go with?

FFF
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Old 08-22-2020, 06:14 PM   #104
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sbman ... I left you a PM on THT ... I'm all caught up now reading your three different threads here ... a seriously impressive effort you have mustered I gotta' say ... so, moving onward ... back in your post #82 in this thread, you spoke about re-usable hydraulic fittings and bulk hydraulic hose for your fuel, oil and trans cooler lines ... would you mind elaborating on the brand name(s) of the hose / fittings and / or the name of the hose shop that figured out what worked with what for you? Up here in Vancouver, Canada, I have Green Line or New Line to deal with ... I just can't seem to find what I need with them.

I have the identical boat (mine's a '79) & near identical engines as you (Industrial 6-71N engines [white in color] marinized by PACIFC DIESEL POWER CO., with San Juan Engineering (/ Seakamp) h.e.'s and rear-mounted, gear-driven JABSCO raw water pumps) ...

I'm going to make some changes to my existing engine oil pan-mounted quick-drain valves ... currently I have mis-matched 1/2" F/F NPT brass ball valves (plugged by clear silicone-sealed 1/2" M NPT carbon steel plugs [3/8" dr. sq. int.]), each mounted to 1/2" M/M NPT brass nipples in the oil drain holes of my oil pans ... I have found I cannot get near the outboard (left side) mounted quick-drain valve on my Port engine and (once I've battled to reach it once and drain the engine oil) want to run a length of steel-braid hose from a 90 (swivel?) fitting at the oil pan drain hole (Port engine ... and perhaps a straight fitting / shorter length of hose for the Stbd engine, whose inboard [left side] pan drain hole is far easier to access in the e.r. aisle).

I have not decided exactly how to terminate these hoses in the e.r. aisle ... there are some pretty slick oil change systems available ... i.e. GROCO ($1K USD) or X-Change-R ($649USD) ... however, perhaps I'll just stick with (plugged, for security) ball valves at the hose termination points in a convenient spot in the e.r. aisle. I do have a JABSCO 17800-2000 bucket-mounted oil change system (it was used with a 1/4" x 40" dipstick probe that I now cannot locate) whose pump could be easily adapted to draw / drain and pump used engine oil from the un-plugged ball valves at the hose ends into empty 5 gallon pails as required.

What kind of an engine oil drain system did you elect to go with?

FFF
I have the same issue with the oil drains, mismatched threads and ball valves, one of which I can't reach. I have not sought a solution yet.

When I took an old hose into the host shop, the guy took one look at it and said 'Oh thats Parker such and such' and pulled out identical looking hose from behind the counter. It fit perfect in the existing fittings and does not leak or have any issues. Post a pic of the hoses you have and their fittings and I'll find out what the model of hose is that I was able to use. I know it is Parker hose, I'm just not sure which series.
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Old 08-22-2020, 06:26 PM   #105
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Hey sbman ... that was quick!


So, there's no hoses currently rigged on my oil pan quick-drain valves ... I have the luxury of starting fresh for this particular application ... I'm thinking I'll re-vamp the existing nipples / valves with whatever my permanent solution entails ... FFF
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Old 08-23-2020, 06:14 AM   #106
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On our 6-71N there was no oil drain ball valve, a screwed in 90deg was connected to a good hose. The hose was long enough 5 6 ft? to be easy to reach in the engine space.

The hose was capped with a hydraulic quick disconnect, which could clip into another hose on a manual rotary aircraft fuel pump, but a rotary drum pump would work as well.

Never fun going down to the engine space after a long days run , but with 2 - 5 gal oil cans ready , each got 4 gallons quickly , and could be removed at leisure when recycling the old oil.

Safe , fool proof, cheap , and clean .
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Old 08-25-2020, 04:23 PM   #107
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Well ... FYI sbman & FF ... I just finished pricing out a couple of custom SS braid hose (SAE100R14 PTFE Lined 304 Stainless Braided / Standard White Tube) assemblies with brass 90 live swivels at the oil pans and SS-capped, compact 316 SS ball valves at the other ends of the hoses ... and the fittings, although 316 SS, were crimp-on and not re-useable ... forget it ... over $550CAD + 12% taxes ... I think I'll do something simpler like what FF did ... FFF

follow-up edit: I should mention that sourcing stuff like what I described above in Canada is akin to being way out in the sticks ... not a lot of choice in terms of vendors or what's available ... when I was moored at Point Roberts Marina, I could online order almost anything from the lower 48 and a couple of days later, just saunter over a couple of blocks and pick it up ... now with the pandemic, that option is curtailed for the foreseeable ...
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Old 08-25-2020, 05:03 PM   #108
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That price is inline when I checked into having new, crimped hoses made for the Detroit. I was happy the engine has re-usable fittings and only one was rusty and had to be replaced.

The Parker brand reusable fittings in plain steel run about $20-$30 each depending on type and size and hose varies but for 1/2" I think it's around $15/ft for composite braided medium pressure hose (around 1500 PSI) so that same configuration would be probably around $85-$100 for each assembly (assemble yourself) plus ball valves and they'd need to be painted.

Have you figured out what the thread is on the oil pan? I need to do something about the starboard engine's oil drain before I put the exhaust back on.
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Old 08-25-2020, 05:07 PM   #109
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follow-up edit: I should mention that sourcing stuff like what I described above in Canada is akin to being way out in the sticks ... not a lot of choice in terms of vendors or what's available ... when I was moored at Point Roberts Marina, I could online order almost anything from the lower 48 and a couple of days later, just saunter over a couple of blocks and pick it up ... now with the pandemic, that option is curtailed for the foreseeable ...
I guess I should be happy with availability in San Diego. I often complain to myself that it seems like everything has to come out of Los Angeles but it's actually not bad, most stuff can be had next day. The hydraulics I can get walk in service at my local hose shop for most common stuff.

These guys are where I've purchased the Parker fittings and hoses, in person:

https://www.hoseandrubberproducts.com/
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Old 08-25-2020, 05:12 PM   #110
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On our 6-71N there was no oil drain ball valve, a screwed in 90deg was connected to a good hose. The hose was long enough 5 6 ft? to be easy to reach in the engine space.

The hose was capped with a hydraulic quick disconnect, which could clip into another hose on a manual rotary aircraft fuel pump, but a rotary drum pump would work as well.

Never fun going down to the engine space after a long days run , but with 2 - 5 gal oil cans ready , each got 4 gallons quickly , and could be removed at leisure when recycling the old oil.

Safe , fool proof, cheap , and clean .
This sounds ideal, there is no point low enough to drain the oil by gravity anyways unless you put something very low profile below the engine. Pumping it out and into buckets would be the way to go.
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Old 08-25-2020, 05:40 PM   #111
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sbman ... those oil pan drain hole threads should be 1/2" FNPT ... mine have brass 1/2" MNPT close nipples in them with bronze (Port) / brass (Stbd.) FNPT / FNPT ball valves threaded onto the close nipples ... then they plugged the ball valve outlets with carbon steel plugs (3/8" sq. dr.), using clear silicone sealant, and, evidently, never used them again (or much). I'm basing the latter on the JABSCO 17800-2000 Porta Quick Oil Changer (pump mounted to bucket lid) system that was left onboard for me by P.O. ... it was used with a dipstick probe that is now MIA. FFF
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Old 08-25-2020, 06:06 PM   #112
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sbman ... those oil pan drain hole threads should be 1/2" FNPT ... mine have brass 1/2" MNPT close nipples in them with bronze (Port) / brass (Stbd.) FNPT / FNPT ball valves threaded onto the close nipples ... then they plugged the ball valve outlets with carbon steel plugs (3/8" sq. dr.), using clear silicone sealant, and, evidently, never used them again (or much). I'm basing the latter on the JABSCO 17800-2000 Porta Quick Oil Changer (pump mounted to bucket lid) system that was left onboard for me by P.O. ... it was used with a dipstick probe that is now MIA. FFF
That's interesting. I figured the threads in the oil pan would be a straight thread and be expecting a copper washer type gasket to make the seal. I assumed the NPT fitting that is currently in there was not an exact match so I used a good amount of teflon tape with the close nipple that is currently in mine.
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Old 08-26-2020, 10:46 AM   #113
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Hey sbman ... that was quick!


So, there's no hoses currently rigged on my oil pan quick-drain valves ... I have the luxury of starting fresh for this particular application ... I'm thinking I'll re-vamp the existing nipples / valves with whatever my permanent solution entails ... FFF
FFF

When I did my engine swap 20 yrs ago, I had the oil drain hoses added. They were designed to fit the bung in the bottom of the oil pan, which they fit exactly, so no Rube G required. I got mine from Inlet Marine in Port Moody. Inlet is still my "go to" for all things engine.
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Old 08-26-2020, 02:27 PM   #114
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sbman ... I should clarify that I have yet to physically confirm the oil pan drain hole threads ... from what I can see on my Port engine, a conventional brass 1/2" MNPT close nipple is being used (no copper washer or even sealing compound / tape visible) ... I have yet to uninstall the FNPT/FNPT ball valve that's there and won't ... until and unless I decide on drain hose assembly pieces ... however, another affirming indicator as to the nature of the O.P.D. threads is in this EZ OIL DRAIN VALVE chart I found online, which specifies EZ-202 for DD Series 71, an NPT 1/2”-14 threaded item..

koliver ... thanks for the suggestion ... I spoke to Martin in Parts and Sean in Service at Inlet Marine ... they explained they had nothing off-the-shelf and, if they were to undertake the work for me (except that I do as much of my mech. work as possible, this type of project being a good example), would be faced with cobbling together the drain hose pieces in much the same fashion as I have already done ... my initial laundry list of premium pieces was just too much $ ... I'll need to simplify matters or defer the notion. FFF
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Old 08-26-2020, 02:46 PM   #115
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sbman I have yet to uninstall the FNPT/FNPT ball valve that's there and won't ... until and unless I decide on drain hose assembly pieces ... however, another affirming indicator as to the nature of the O.P.D. threads is in this EZ OIL DRAIN VALVE chart I found online, which specifies EZ-202 for DD Series 71, an NPT 1/2-14 threaded item...
I looked up replacement drain plugs and they are listed as 1/2 PIPE so it looks like that's what it is.

https://www.powerlinecomponents.com/...71/127/oil-pan

I'll likely put a bronze fitting there and go to a high quality hydraulic hose/quick disconnect as described by FF that I can use to pump oil out and back in with.
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Old 08-27-2020, 12:57 AM   #116
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sbman ... are these Parker hydraulic hose/quick disconnect couplers & nipples even close to what you're thinking of?

I selected the 'Brass' & '1/2-14' filters to pare things down a bit ...

Parker offers so many different Quick Couplings Hydraulic for various applications that the ones I reference above may not be at all appropriate, or, are possible total overkill (i.e. don't need 2200 psi capability) ...

And, as far as the Parker reusable ('live swivel' possible?) hose fittings are concerned, do you remember the product descriptors (or have part numbers?) for what you've been using? Parker's online selection process is complicated by their vast number of choices. I went to HRP's site but again quickly got lost with all the choices offered.

Thanks, FFF
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Old 08-27-2020, 06:51 AM   #117
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When purchasing hose or fittings for hose the swiveling version costs a bit more but is worth the cost.
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Old 08-27-2020, 12:36 PM   #118
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sbman ... are these Parker hydraulic hose/quick disconnect couplers & nipples even close to what you're thinking of?

I selected the 'Brass' & '1/2-14' filters to pare things down a bit ...

Parker offers so many different Quick Couplings Hydraulic for various applications that the ones I reference above may not be at all appropriate, or, are possible total overkill (i.e. don't need 2200 psi capability) ...

And, as far as the Parker reusable ('live swivel' possible?) hose fittings are concerned, do you remember the product descriptors (or have part numbers?) for what you've been using? Parker's online selection process is complicated by their vast number of choices. I went to HRP's site but again quickly got lost with all the choices offered.

Thanks, FFF
I'm going to go over to HRP today and get the parts to setup mine. I'll share the part numbers once I've got it. I want to get that in there so I can complete the engine installation, once I put the exhaust on it will not be accessible.
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Old 08-27-2020, 12:40 PM   #119
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Roger that ... thanks sbman ... if those reusable fitting / hose part numbers aren't buried too deep, that'd really help me out too. FFF
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Old 08-27-2020, 05:31 PM   #120
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Here's the stackup of what I ended up getting, in order of assembly from starting at the oil pan:

2404-8-8 - (Unknown brand) 1/2" NPTM to 1/2" JIC Adapter $3.64
23920-8-8 - (Parker) Two piece field assembly Female 90 deg JIC Hose #8 Fitting $30.21
201-8 - (Parker) Hose, -8 201 Series (13/32") - 6 feet $64.80
20120-8-8 - (Parker) Two piece field assembly -8 Hose to 1/2" Male NPTM Fitting $20.51
H4F4 (Dixon) Male H Series Hydraulic Quick Connect 1/2 NPTF $23.11
4H4D - (Dixon) Female H Series Hydraulic Quick Connect 1/2" F NPTF $59.27

Everything is rated to 2000 PSI working pressure and is rated for oil and high temperature. All fittings are steel, although most are available in other materials as well.



Hose: https://ph.parker.com/us/en/rubber-c...hose-201/201-8

20 Series Fittings:
https://ph.parker.com/us/en/20-series-fittings
The specific fittings I am using:
https://ph.parker.com/us/en/20-serie...ings/20120-8-8
https://ph.parker.com/us/en/20-serie...ings/23920-8-8

The quick connects are made by Dixon and are not cheap. It was $60 for the Female one but I only need one of those, I'll put the male ends on each engine at $30 each. The Female quick connect is pretty big at with the locking ring almost 2" in diameter.

That makes it about $140 per engine plug the female disconnect to put on whatever oil change pump you are using at $60.

I plan to put some permanent plumbing in the boat and mount a pump in the engine room to do oil changes with. I am thinking of going with a Marco UP2 reversible gear oil pump that I saw in another thread.
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