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Old 05-01-2019, 10:44 AM   #21
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Mark the liners coming out with the hole of origin as there may be some oversize ones and you want to know which holes they came from.
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Old 05-01-2019, 12:16 PM   #22
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Mark the liners coming out with the hole of origin as there may be some oversize ones and you want to know which holes they came from.
Yes, I mark all of the components as I remove them for reference purposes. All of them in this case were marked the same and had a clean sliding fit. The bores on the block are clean and no corrosion or pitting, so that's good news.
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Old 05-01-2019, 01:08 PM   #23
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In for the rebuild ride...

I've got DD 671N's in my new (to me) 1983 Trojan 44 FBMY.

Thanks for sharing...!!
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Old 05-01-2019, 01:14 PM   #24
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In for the rebuild ride...

I've got DD 671N's in my new (to me) 1983 Trojan 44 FBMY.

Thanks for sharing...!!
Do you know who the marinizer was for yours? If you happen to have any pictures of your installation, would be nice to see that.

I've discovered that the Johnson and Towers marinization parts are no longer available. They have seals and gaskets, but the entire heat exchanger, inlet adapters, trans cooler, etc... are all unavailable.

Not a big surprise, but you'll want to take good care of those components as they are only available now as used parts from boats being scrapped. The heat exchanger is going to present some challenges in my case as it was obviously neglected as well.
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Old 05-01-2019, 01:28 PM   #25
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Do you know who the marinizer was for yours? If you happen to have any pictures of your installation, would be nice to see that.

I've discovered that the Johnson and Towers marinization parts are no longer available. They have seals and gaskets, but the entire heat exchanger, inlet adapters, trans cooler, etc... are all unavailable.

Not a big surprise, but you'll want to take good care of those components as they are only available now as used parts from boats being scrapped. The heat exchanger is going to present some challenges in my case as it was obviously neglected as well.
Believe mine to be J & T's as well...
I'll get some pics in the coming days, after I get a house move done. Anyone wanna volunteer to help...?

This boat has low overall hours on her, but I know 2 of the 3 former owners and both were good (one meticulous) on overall maintenance and care.

BTW... she has entertained both Mickey Mantle, Yogi Berra, and another Yankee who was on the stretch of 10 Championships that I can't seem to recall right now. (sorry, I'm a Cardinal fan...)
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Old 05-01-2019, 01:40 PM   #26
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Do you know who the marinizer was for yours? If you happen to have any pictures of your installation, would be nice to see that.



I've discovered that the Johnson and Towers marinization parts are no longer available. They have seals and gaskets, but the entire heat exchanger, inlet adapters, trans cooler, etc... are all unavailable.



Not a big surprise, but you'll want to take good care of those components as they are only available now as used parts from boats being scrapped. The heat exchanger is going to present some challenges in my case as it was obviously neglected as well.


Are you a member of boatdiesel? I imagine all of the talent on that site would help you source parts for you JT 671N. I used to have a pair of JT 671TA. Boatdiesel was very helpful.
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:20 AM   #27
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Are you a member of boatdiesel? I imagine all of the talent on that site would help you source parts for you JT 671N. I used to have a pair of JT 671TA. Boatdiesel was very helpful.
I had not heard of that site, but I'll go take a look, thanks!
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:27 AM   #28
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Saving the heat exchangers

One issue I've been trying to figure out how to deal with is the heat exchanger(s). They were also neglected of course and are full of deposits of minerals. A former owner also used water in cooling system instead of proper coolant, but the cast iron heat exchanger parts, I'll cover in another post. The heat exchanger system look to be the worst part of the entire rebuild.

For this post, I'm dealing with the brass/bronze/copper parts.

The first task is simply to get the things apart. Most of the fasteners came out, but a few were too far gone, 4 out of about 25 fasteners were corroded, and couple of them broke the heads off when I tried to turn them.



This was my starting point. ugghh.

First step, grind off the heads of the corroded bolts.

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Old 05-03-2019, 10:32 AM   #29
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There's a lot of deposits in the primary heat exchanger as well as on the bronze fittings that bolt to the housing. I don't think using steel bolts to bolt together two bronze housings was a good idea and I'm probably going to use bronze bolts to bolt that back together. The steel bolts in the bronze fared the worst by far. All of the steel into cast iron did on with only one bolt breaking off. Three of the four steel/bronze setups were corroded beyond removal and will have to be drilled and re-tapped.



Pondering how to get this stuff cleaned out... I researched around and found this video by Barnacle Buster.



I kind of figured it was marketing hype and ideal conditions, etc... very skeptical. Discovered the products active ingredient is phosphoric acid, which is basically what is in a can of coke. I decided to give it a go and see if it works as advertised.
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:38 AM   #30
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I got the components separated and all apart. I mixed up the gallon of barnacle buster concentrate with 4 gallons of water as directed in a plastic container.

Then I put the heat exchanger and the bronze housings into the solution. Just like the advertising video, it immediately started bubbling heavily, frothing and churning the water. I let it sit for 7 hours and pulled out the parts, gave a fresh water rinse.





Incredibly, not a trace of any deposits at all. All of the salt/calcium/lime, whatever it was is gone and the heat exchanger looks to be in excellent condition. The housings are clean a bright and ready to go again as well. Still have a little repair work to do on the broken fasteners, drilling and tapping but I'm really impressed with the barnacle buster. I'm sure I'll be finding other uses for that on the boat when dealing with sea water deposits!
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Old 05-03-2019, 11:42 AM   #31
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After acid cleaning parts, I leave them submerged in water with baking soda in solution. Acid hides in nooks and crannies and will keep corroding things until engine is in service where it flushes much better. Might leave them submerged for a day or two and agitate occasionally.
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Old 05-03-2019, 12:55 PM   #32
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After acid cleaning parts, I leave them submerged in water with baking soda in solution. Acid hides in nooks and crannies and will keep corroding things until engine is in service where it flushes much better. Might leave them submerged for a day or two and agitate occasionally.
That's a good idea and I'll do that.
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Old 05-06-2019, 04:42 PM   #33
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This info is very valuable to me. Thank you for posting the rebuild.
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:21 AM   #34
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"This info is very valuable to me. Thank you for posting the rebuild."

If you do not have one purchase the Grey Marine WWII students manual, the best book to hold your hand for every DD6-71 repair or rebuild.

https://www.amazon.com/Instruction-M.../dp/B000CNMSUA
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:04 PM   #35
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Dealing with rust

There are a number of parts that are corroded, mainly in the cooling system. Some previous owner put plain water in the cooling system instead of coolant and this allowed it to rust. The barnacle buster was great for the bronze parts, but it eats cast iron up.

I got a bucket of evapo-rust. I'm not sure what the active ingredient is, but it works pretty good. It's a little slow, with heavier rust needing a couple of days to treat, and sometimes multiple treatments.



None of the cooling system parts are detroit, they are custom castings made for/by J&T and are no longer available. Some of them are pretty crusty.

This elbow adapter is a good example:



I scraped and brushed the loose stuff off, dropped it in the bucket of evapo-rust and let it sit for two days. Then a rinse in fresh water and a scrub brush to remove any residue, it looks like this:

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Old 05-09-2019, 07:14 PM   #36
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Does EvapoRust attack cast iron? I have been thinking about the barnacle buster on my cooling system, in situ, but your comment that it eats cast iron worries me. The system is working fine right now so I dont want to start something that might break it. But not knowing its history I worry that it might need the barnacle buster. Is the EvapoRust only a dip tank or is it usable. in situ as a flush?
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:40 PM   #37
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Does EvapoRust attack cast iron? I have been thinking about the barnacle buster on my cooling system, in situ, but your comment that it eats cast iron worries me. The system is working fine right now so I dont want to start something that might break it. But not knowing its history I worry that it might need the barnacle buster. Is the EvapoRust only a dip tank or is it usable. in situ as a flush?
Yes, the Barnacle buster attacks cast iron, it's active ingredient is Phosporic acid, I believe. I placed a piece of it in the vat of barnacle buster and it bubbles and fizzes. It doesn't affect the rust much either. It has inhibitors that help prevent it from attacking cooling system parts of brass/bronze and derivatives, but it does slowly attack them as well.

The evapo rust is far more effective on iron oxide/rust and does not attack metal, rubber or plastics. I plan to fill the cooling system on the engine side with it, let it sit for a couple of days and then flush it with water a couple of times, and then put fresh water and coolant mix as appropriate. There are a number of areas inside the engine block i can't reach that I want to remove the rust from.
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:42 PM   #38
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I should say, the raw water cooling system does not have any cast iron in it's path and I would have no reservation using barnacle buster as directed to clean a raw water cooling system.
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:54 PM   #39
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So Barnacle Buster on the fresh water side, flush and add Volvo Coolant, and Evapo Rust on the salt water side and just flush with sea water. Ok, sounds like one of my projects for this fall.
No, the opposite. The barnacle buster is designed for raw water systems, and can be put in through your sea strainer with some extra options/tools that is also sold by the manufacturer.

I plan to use evapo rust in the 'fresh water' side of the cooling system which consists of the engine block, heat exchanger tank, various pipes and coolant hoses.

I can't recommend anyone use evaporust in their cooling system, it's not designed for that. I plan to do it for my own engine, while it is out of the boat and can be completely flushed after I'm done.
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:09 PM   #40
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Just use a pressure washer once you get the block stripped and blast out all the passages. No need for chemicals as it is hard to get it all out of what will be a closed system.
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