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Old 05-06-2017, 08:28 AM   #21
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mason and cajun....do you mean the exact same problem in every respect ? In other words, did you guys also have separate generator on/off toggle switches at the helm with "on" LED light that stopped working (during cranking) at the same time the oil pressure gauge stopped working....or did you only have electrical trouble at the generator itself ?

(I would already have tried removing the back of the generator sound enclosure to look for this elusive fuse holder, but I won't be back at the boat until Sunday night at best)

==================================


As an aside I did finally hear back from a Cummins Onan "Level 2" tech...who was very nice and emailed me the motherload of troubleshooting manuals... including the elusive one page electrical schematics that shows how it all ties together.

Only problem is the electrical schematics were probably originally drawn on way larger drafting paper and it almost takes an electron microscope to make out the details on the 8.5 x 11 scan !
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Old 05-06-2017, 11:31 AM   #22
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You posted that you have volts present on the injection pump solenoid. If so, the no start is not an electrical problem. At this point.
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Old 05-06-2017, 11:39 AM   #23
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Yes and fuel solenoid is opening
¿Is the fuel shut-off solenoid fully retracting? ¿Are the fuel shut-off linkages not jammed or impaired in any away a move freely when the the solenoid is energised?

To be sure it is not a solenoid or related problem you can manually pull up on the linkages and keep the fuel-shut-off open while somebody cranks the genny.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:28 PM   #24
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You posted that you have volts present on the injection pump solenoid. If so, the no start is not an electrical problem. At this point.
That was according to the Onan mechanic, not me....I don't know how good a mechanic he is yet. He talks a good game but whether he can walk the walk has yet to be determined.

As an aside, can you tell me how to check compression on the 4 cylinders ?
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:04 PM   #25
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You posted that you have volts present on the injection pump solenoid. If so, the no start is not an electrical problem. At this point.
OK, back at the boat tonight, and do my own testing, rather than relying on word of mechanic and see their actually is NO voltage at the injection pump solenoid

I connected up a temporary alternative source of 12 volts and the injection pump solenoid does make a clicking sound as expected.

In theory I could probably now run the generator like that but can't, because the mechanic took a part of the injector pump with him to repair !! (He will in theory be back Monday morning [tomorrow] at 9am with the "repaired" part.)

But the question remains, WHY is there no voltage getting to that solenoid ? Any theories ?

As to the mason and Cajun theories of a blown glass fuse, I can get the back sound cover off but the generator is so close to the wall I can't get my head back there enough to to see much of anything ......plus I now have the complete troubleshooting and service manual and there is no mention of such.....I suppose Viking could have done something like that but seems unlikely.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:46 AM   #26
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Fixed it. Now you guys get to guess what it was

Hint- it was electrical to panel related and ridiculously simple....but not a blown fuse and not a tripped or defective sensor fault breaker.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:55 AM   #27
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Loose connection?
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:01 AM   #28
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So much for the mechanic who took patr of the injection pump home for repair.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:28 AM   #29
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Greetings,
Mr. D. Over rev point set maladjusted?
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:29 AM   #30
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Glad you found the problem! Could it have been a faulty reset switch?
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:40 AM   #31
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Glad you found the problem! Could it have been a faulty reset switch?
Uh...no...re read my last sentence.
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:49 AM   #32
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So much for the mechanic who took patr of the injection pump home for repair.
It's even worse than that....turns out the "repair" was installing a new O ring on a part on the injector pump easily removed from the outside !

1 insane not to have a general O ring selection kit on the truck in the first place

2. And if not , just drive to the hardware store 3 miles away and come back within 30 minutes.

3. With the icing on the cake being that had absolutely nothing to do with the actual problem in the first place.

I'll tell you more when at a regular keypad...don't like typing on a virtual keyboard.
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Old 05-08-2017, 06:18 PM   #33
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I'm guessing the problem was a cable that got knocked loose, probably by someone who you paid to fix something else.
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:52 AM   #34
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I'm guessing if he would have listened to me the genny would have been running 32 posts ago.
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:46 AM   #35
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Fixed it. Now you guys get to guess what it was

Hint- it was electrical to panel related and ridiculously simple....but not a blown fuse and not a tripped or defective sensor fault breaker.
I wait with abated breath.
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:14 AM   #36
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I'm guessing if he would have listened to me the genny would have been running 32 posts ago.
Perhaps if you had been more detailed in that part of your response you might have a point, but obviously there was "power to the generator" as the starter was turning it over just fine. And how to determine if there was power to the gauge panel was both unclear (before I got the service manual) and difficult due to having to remove the water maker obstacles before I could even get a decent look in there.

But really, I know now, the first thing to check with symptoms like this, during cranking, is if there is power to the injection pump solenoid, which in spite of my bizarre mechanics proclamation, there was not.

Anyhow, the answer is I did remove the water maker stuff (my lord why do these things need a dozen hoses and so lame they use nuts and bolts instead of bolts in proper tapped holes ??) in the way and got the top panel off finally. Only then did I see that someone in the past had apparently redone the DC main power supply wire to the panel and their crimp fitting had failed...just a few wire strands still hanging on. So, re did that with new fitting and all was well.

Thanks for the suggestions..esp Ski in NC and Alaskan for the phone number to Cummins/Onan...which was extremely helpful to have proper manuals !

=========================

Now, just out of curiosity.....if an injection pump solenoid ever goes bad can it be replaced with a new one or do you have to replace the entire injection pump ? And if so, any idea what a new injection pump would cost on a 4 cyl Cummins diesel ? (yes, I'm sitting down.... )
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:47 AM   #37
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I replaced a stop solenoid on a 1979 Onan a few years ago and it cost $600!

I recently replaced one for my current boat's Onan but this time I bought a Chinese knock-off o E-bay for under $100.

A new pump could be a few boat units.
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:52 AM   #38
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That's a Stanadyne pump. All parts should be available and serviceable at an injection shop. No need to go to Cummins.

Do note that this engine was mfr'd by Onan, then Cummins bought Onan. Tagged as a Cummins, but they never made any of the parts. It's production run was not very long and many engine parts are no longer available. Good reliable engine, but an orphan.
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Old 05-09-2017, 10:06 AM   #39
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That's a Stanadyne pump. All parts should be available and serviceable at an injection shop. No need to go to Cummins.

Do note that this engine was mfr'd by Onan, then Cummins bought Onan. Tagged as a Cummins, but they never made any of the parts. It's production run was not very long and many engine parts are no longer available. Good reliable engine, but an orphan.
Right, Stanadyne pump...so is the bizarre secondary fuel filter (but Napa has them) Thanks Ski.
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Old 05-11-2017, 04:35 PM   #40
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Glad you found your problem. Always look up the part number on Google first. I have bought a lot of parts from Jack's Small Engine at a good discount. The only issue is it could take a few weeks to get the parts.
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