Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-05-2020, 09:06 AM   #41
Senior Member
 
Solly's Avatar
 
City: Solomons MD.
Vessel Name: Sun Runner
Vessel Model: 1985 Mainship 34 Trawler MK III
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 369
Thermostat working ? The temp gauge will tell you. When the engine is first started the temp gauge will rise then drop suddenly when the thermostat opens.

https://www.rydlymemarine.com/wp-con...tions_0917.pdf

This says run the solution the same as the raw water. From the discharge of the raw water pump to the exhaust elbow connection. Really shouldn't matter it should flow either way.

Doesn't need high pressure. In fact the solution cleans chemically so it could sit in the HE with no flow and work too. You just want a gentle flow from the bucket, thru the system, and back to the bucket.

For fittings you can go to one of the big box home improvement stores and get the white plastic water/drain pipe fittings. Measure the outside of a coupling to fit the big hose and look for 1 or more reducers to get to 3/4 female threads to take a hose barb. A hose clamp should be enough to hold the plastic in the hose.
__________________
Advertisement

Solly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2020, 09:32 AM   #42
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
Are you trying to push your brew through the stationary impeller pump? Water will not flow through that (well not much) unless it is spinning.


Yes, that was the problem. I have realized it now.
I will try another method next. Some guys on the web did it through the sea water strainer. Instead of circulating the mix, they suck it into the engine and let it sit overnight. The next day they close it up and start the engine to blow all of it out.
If this does not work enough, I will do the circulating method next. I will remove the impeller at that time.
__________________

LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2020, 01:08 PM   #43
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solly View Post
Thermostat working ? The temp gauge will tell you. When the engine is first started the temp gauge will rise then drop suddenly when the thermostat opens
https://www.rydlymemarine.com/wp-con...tions_0917.pdf
The thermostat was just replaced with a brand new OEM. I have no way to tell, if it opens, or not? I have not seen a drop on the gauge this morning. The temp went up to 160F. Tonight, I will try to watch this, I just need to look up, when the thermostat should open? I am single hand, so I have to run back and forth between the ER and PH.

I ended up doing the funnel+sea strainer+papertowel+bungiecord setup, without the bucket and hose. There is an online product for this, but I did not have time to order it. I made it work, but it was a bit more complicated. See it here:

Sea Flush

What I did was, I opened the sea strainer and removed the basket. I've inserted the large funnel I bought at Napa and sealed it with paper towel, as you can see on the video. I filled the funnel with the mix and cranked the engine for few seconds. I kept doing this till all the mix was in and I could see the colored sea water coming out outside. It took me about 6-7 times cranking to finish. I removed everything and closed the strainer. I let it sit overnight. This morning, I put the strainer back in and opened the seacock. I ran the engine for about 20 minutes, until it reached 160F. All looked fine, but more running will be needed. Tonight, after I return from work, I will run the engine again and see how it behaves in gear. If there is no overheating, I will run it in neutral at cruising rpm around 1600, which resulted overheating last time. I'll report back.

The reason I went to this route is that I am hesitant to open up sea water connections (or coolant for that matter), due to being on buoy full time. There is no easy way to clean the bilge for any type of water, particularly oily water/coolant and bucket/dinghy/carry it somewhere without a vehicle! There is no disposal option in my area.
This solution did not require any opening, so it was much easier for me. Of course, if I have to drain the coolant, or to replace the sender and thermostat, I will have no choice. I cannot find an easy way on this 3306 how to drain the coolant to a bucket.
LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2020, 01:09 PM   #44
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solly View Post
For fittings you can go to one of the big box home improvement stores and get the white plastic water/drain pipe fittings. Measure the outside of a coupling to fit the big hose and look for 1 or more reducers to get to 3/4 female threads to take a hose barb. A hose clamp should be enough to hold the plastic in the hose.
I had the same idea and I build one, but I did not remove the impeller, so it blew it off. Lesson learned.
LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2020, 01:15 PM   #45
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
[QUOTE=Solly;895995]
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeoKa View Post
Fill the heat exchanger and leave the cap off. Run the engine. Some coolant may overflow the fill. When the engine warms up the thermostat will open and the coolant level in the HE will suddenly drop. Put more coolant in the HE. Do that until it stays full and there are no bubbles in the coolant in the HE. Then close the HE and put some in the overflow.
I ran the engine again, this morning. I checked the coolant level and it was all normal. I left the cup off and started the engine. There was no coolant bubbling out and it stayed the same level.Shut it down and put the cup back on. I ran the engine for 20 minutes. All looked fine.
LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2020, 12:47 AM   #46
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
Here is my test run I did tonight. It was about 2 hours long.
The results:
7.55 p.m.
Coolant tank cap off, in Neutral, engine starts, 700 rpm idle
8.10
Engine temp is 155F, gear in Neutral
8.20
Engine temp is 175, gear Neutral
8.25
Gear in reverse, 700 rpm
8.40
Gear in reverse, 700 rpm, engine temp 185 on gauge, alarm comes on
8.41
alarm switch disconnected
8.50
Gear in reverse, 700 rpm, engine temp 180 on gauge, no alarm
8.58
Coolant temp checked 150F at tank, gauge temp 180
Some small bubbles, coolant level only moves up and down an inch, but never reaches the overflow, cap is put back on at tank
9.10
Coolant temp 157, pipe at the alarm switch 215, gauge 180
9.16
Gear back to Neutral
9.25
Coolant temp 160
9.26
Running engine in neutral at 1000 rpm, gauge 180
9.35
Running engine in neutral at 1200 rpm, gauge 180
Pipe temp 217
9.40
Coolant temp 167, gauge 180
9.41
Running engine in neutral at 1500 rpm
9.46
Checking coolant, removing cap, coolant blows out bubbling, flows all over the tank,
Gauge 200F
9.47
Engine down to 700 rpm to cool
9.55
Engine off, coolant cap removed, only tiny bubbles no blow out,
Coolant pipe 225F, gauge 200F
10.00
Engine started, 700 rpm, gauge 180F
10.02
Engine off.

It seems that the cooling can handle low rpm, even in gear. I am on the buoy, so I cannot increase the rpm in gear. Only idle in reverse.
Understand that running a diesel in neutral at high rpm is not ideal, but there is no other way to test the cooling, unless I go out. I am afraid to risk any sailing, if the engine overheats again at higher rpm, while underway.
The other thing what puzzles me that the coolant temp was rising slowly, but never boiled. When the engine was running at 1500 rpm and I removed the cap, the coolant blew out. Was there an air mass, which reached the boiling point and wanted to come out?
Perhaps, I need to do this test again to see, if that was the case, or just the engine overheats at higher rpm?
It seems that the alarm switch is giving false signals to the PH. I will order a replacement. The PH gauge was always lower than what I could measure at the coolant pipe.

Dont hesitate to give me your opinion. Thanks.
LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2020, 12:54 AM   #47
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
Few photos
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0385.jpg
Views:	20
Size:	109.5 KB
ID:	104654Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0386.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	87.2 KB
ID:	104655Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0393.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	137.5 KB
ID:	104656Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0394.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	109.2 KB
ID:	104657Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0395.jpg
Views:	19
Size:	109.6 KB
ID:	104658Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0397.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	115.4 KB
ID:	104659
LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2020, 07:46 AM   #48
Technical Guru
 
Ski in NC's Avatar
 
City: Wilmington, NC
Vessel Name: Louisa
Vessel Model: Custom Built 38
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 6,185
So you are getting that 216F at the outlet pipe for the thermostat? And this at light load and new tstat? Wonder if there is a problem with your circulating water pump...

Is this keel cooled or heat exchanger cooled?

Is all the cooling plumbing factory original or has it been modified?
Ski in NC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2020, 10:43 AM   #49
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
So you are getting that 216F at the outlet pipe for the thermostat? And this at light load and new tstat? Wonder if there is a problem with your circulating water pump...

Is this keel cooled or heat exchanger cooled?

Is all the cooling plumbing factory original or has it been modified?
It is exchanger cooled.
I am not aware of any modifications. I owned it for 2 years. The PO had it for 10 years, but did not sail much. The original builder sailed for 10 years. The 3306 is an industrial engine originally, but was converted to marine, rebuilt in 1996.
LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2020, 11:36 AM   #50
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
[QUOTE=Ski in NC;897139]So you are getting that 216F at the outlet pipe for the thermostat? And this at light load and new tstat? Wonder if there is a problem with your circulating water pump.../QUOTE]

I've started a new thread, since this is not the mud problem anymore:

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/...tml#post897229
LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2020, 03:31 PM   #51
Senior Member
 
Solly's Avatar
 
City: Solomons MD.
Vessel Name: Sun Runner
Vessel Model: 1985 Mainship 34 Trawler MK III
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 369
I see nothing wrong with the test. Coolant temp stays around 180. Depending on what the thermostat is rated at it sounds about right.
Don't take the cap off a hot system. Just like a car radiator a closed system builds pressure when hot. It's supposed to. The boiling point of water increases with pressure.
If it was mine I'd take it out and run it. If the water temp gauge shows it overheating slow to idle and return. As long as it cools down at idle you should be OK.
I don't like the stream of small bubbles in the coolant though. That might mean a head gasket leak. $$$ Maybe time to call in the pros.
Solly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2020, 04:10 PM   #52
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solly View Post
I don't like the stream of small bubbles in the coolant though. That might mean a head gasket leak. $$$ Maybe time to call in the pros.
I would not call it stream. Some, maybe.
The head gasket was replaced in late 2018, when my diesel mechanic friend did a valve adjustment on it.

I'll take her out this weekend and see how she goes.
LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2020, 06:12 PM   #53
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
It seems that my problem has been solved.
After replacing the sea water pump. Flushing the sea water system with Rydlyme. Removing and fixing the water pump. Flushing the coolant system with Rydlyme. I have perfect cooling at cruising speed.
The problem was the water pump. It was missing the connecting pins and the center bolt, which holds the gear to the impeller's housing. I bought the pins, bolt, gaskets online and mounted it back. The cooling temp immediately went down. Right now, it does not climb higher than 150F. I reward this to the Rydlyme flushing, which must have cleaned out everything.
The water pump could have been damaged by the sea water pump's deterioration, since I did not have overheating problems before.
I will go for a weekend sailing soon, which will be the real test of these repairs.
Thank for all your help.
LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2020, 07:28 PM   #54
Guru
 
tiltrider1's Avatar
 
City: Seattle
Vessel Name: AZZURRA
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 54
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 2,583
I spent the weekend tied to the dock next to your moorage. Nice view you have.
tiltrider1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2020, 10:44 PM   #55
Guru
 
LeoKa's Avatar
 
City: Bainbridge Island WA
Vessel Name: Ironside
Vessel Model: 54' Bruce Roberts design, custom built, steel, sailboat hull, single CAT 3306 Turbo.
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 642
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiltrider1 View Post
I spent the weekend tied to the dock next to your moorage. Nice view you have.


Sure do. Eagle Harbor is a pretty place. I can even see Seattle from my windows. I just wish people would dump less crap into the bay. Sometime when I dive to clean the bottom, all kind of stuff is floating around.
__________________

LeoKa is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Trawler Port Captains
Port Captains are TF volunteers who can serve as local guides or assist with local arrangements and information. Search below to locate Port Captains near your destination. To learn more about this program read here: TF Port Captain Program





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:23 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012
×