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Old 04-10-2019, 06:59 PM   #21
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Greetings,
Mr. S. See post #14. You must prime the injection pump as well.


"These pants are supposed to be self priming..." Ah, yes. Self priming pants. There's a fix for that...


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Old 04-10-2019, 07:25 PM   #22
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Like Ski said, you have to crack the screw on the first filter when pumping. When solid fuel comes out close screw and open screw on second filter and repeat, then start the engine at fast idle. It may stumble a bit but should run. Good luck. You should start the priming process all over if you did it differently.
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Old 04-10-2019, 07:28 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
Change the filter. Then crack a vent on the top housing. Then pump lever. Stop when fuel starts coming out, then snug the vent. Pump a few more times, start engine. Both filters need to be vented of air as above.

With filter all closed up as you did it, pumping the lever only pushed air into the inj pump. If you open a vent, air comes out there and inj pump stays full of fuel.
Crap I forgot to crack that bleeder screws. Sure enough a ton of air came out. But still no start even after pumping the plunger another two dozen times.
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Old 04-10-2019, 07:30 PM   #24
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Your symptom is exactly the same as mine when I forget to bleed (prime) the injector pump. On my pump you need to loosen the aft bleed screw and pump until you get clear diesel out of it. Not a mix of air and diesel. Then close that screw and open the forward bleed screw and pump again until diesel with no air comes out. Tighten the screw and give it a start.

Here is a picture of my pump and the locations of the bleed screws.
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Old 04-10-2019, 07:32 PM   #25
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Try the bleeding process again. I would not mess with the injector pump until the correct bleeding has been done. On my 225s I have never had to bleed the pump, just the filters. Maybe you will have to bleed the pump since you got nore air into the system. Just try rebleeding the filters first.
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Old 04-10-2019, 09:22 PM   #26
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Alight Ill give it a shot tomorrow morning.
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Old 04-11-2019, 06:30 AM   #27
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"But still no start even after pumping the plunger another two dozen times."

When hand pumping does fuel squirt out of the bleeding screw on the injection pump?

IF it does not , turning the engine a bit may allow the hand pump to be in a better position and move far enough to pump.

With the injection pump fully primed , you still might have to bleed the injectors.
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Old 04-11-2019, 07:33 AM   #28
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Quote:
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"But still no start even after pumping the plunger another two dozen times."

When hand pumping does fuel squirt out of the bleeding screw on the injection pump?

IF it does not , turning the engine a bit may allow the hand pump to be in a better position and move far enough to pump.

With the injection pump fully primed , you still might have to bleed the injectors.
I believe youre talking about the 135. The 225s have a self bleeding pump.
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Old 04-11-2019, 07:39 AM   #29
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Self bleeding or not, you don't want to work your lift pump with the starter. Work the lift pump by hand and verify both filters are solid with fuel (silly term, just means all fuel, no air) and the injection pump too.

Then try a start. If no go, crack injection lines at nuts up at cylinder head and crank til they spit. Note that priming pump will have no effect downstream at the injection lines, to pump fuel through that part of the inj pump it must be rotating.
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Old 04-11-2019, 07:46 AM   #30
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Greetings,
Mr. S. "The 225’s have a self bleeding pump." They're SUPPOSED to be self bleeding. Maybe you've got a weak pump. You're unable to start your engine for a reason and the only reason appears to be lack of fuel.
As others have said. Start bleeding again from square one and buy yourself an oil can for the other engine (post #5) to aid in filling up the new filters from the bleed hole. I can see that outboard priming lever to be a tad awkward.
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Old 04-11-2019, 09:56 AM   #31
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Why 3 large gaskets that are the same size? I only see two. One in the top of the housing and the other in the bottom. I do see where the two small ones go.
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Old 04-11-2019, 10:05 AM   #32
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Greetings,
Mr. S. FROM MEMORY (and that sucks!) There is one gasket (smaller, I think) at the top of the filter nestled in the fixed housing on the engine and the larger of the two (I think) goes into the base/removable part of the housing.
IF you have the proper gaskets in the proper places they will fit quite easily. IF you have to fiddle, wiggle, stretch and push the gasket into the recess, it's probably the wrong one. (Sorry for the technical language).
O-ring goes on bolt holding the bottom to the top.
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Old 04-11-2019, 10:52 AM   #33
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All 3 gaskets are identical. I wonder if the filter and gaskets are for multiple applications that require 3 large gaskets.

So I bled the starboard engine as you guys said she she fired right up. Runs great. And that was the engine that quit on our last trip, so the filters were clogged.

Still working on the port engine. I changed the razor and its full. I have the electric priming pump on and if I crack the bleeder screws on the filter housing, fuel comes out with no air. Still no start though.

Ill crack the return line
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Old 04-11-2019, 11:05 AM   #34
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Ah ha!!! Brian at American diesel said to pull the return line check valve. Sure as shit a puff of air came out when I did that. Its clogged. Now I gotta find someone with an air compressor.
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Old 04-11-2019, 11:36 AM   #35
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Great success!!!! The check valve was gunked up!!!! I local shop blew it out for me. Put the cleaned valve in and she fired right up!!!

Thank you guys so much for the help. So glad I didnt pay someone to do this. Now I know what to do if this happen to me again.
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Old 04-11-2019, 11:39 AM   #36
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Nice!!!
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Old 04-11-2019, 11:44 AM   #37
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Old 04-11-2019, 12:08 PM   #38
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Good work. Brian is wonderful.
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:13 PM   #39
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i always save old plastic dishpan containers,big/small, for draining things...for oil/fuel filters, i put a drain pan under them, and poke an icepick in the bottom...sometimes more than one hole...let them drian, maybe overnite...clyde
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:10 AM   #40
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There is a hidden pearl of wisdom in Mssr. RTF's instructions that should be pointed out so when I do this in a few months and come back in here for his instructions, I will be reminded ....close the seacock before trying to start the engine. Prevents water filling up the muffler and hydrolock of engine when I can't get it started right away.

If I remember correctly, the 3rd gasket provided is a spare put in for me when I foul up the first one.
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