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Old 02-29-2020, 11:40 AM   #21
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he alternator story sounds bogus. . .
I knew of one person who had too large (in amp hours) of an alternator and when the batteries got low it would smoke the single V belt in a few minutes. Happened a couple of times to him. (he was a slow learner)

I had my original starter rebuilt for $140. Any rebuild shop can do it, nothing special about these old school starters.
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Old 02-29-2020, 12:10 PM   #22
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Like too rich or too thin, you can never have too much compression.
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Old 02-29-2020, 12:15 PM   #23
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Right, I just meant that a battery becoming more tired will have a harder time cranking the engine. Depending on power draw while underway his battery could be supplying demands other than the starter.

I'll stand by my original statement on warm vs cold engine. A warm engine has higher compression than a cold engine. If it starts more easily or not is probably dependent on the particular engine/battery/starter circuit.

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Old 02-29-2020, 03:48 PM   #24
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Wonder why diesels usually have engine heaters in cold climates?....heck I think all Ford diesel trucks come factory with them and not coolers.

Maybe compression is higher, but other factors seem to be more important.
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Old 02-29-2020, 05:19 PM   #25
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He stated it was a 140 or so. I’ve bought the double pulley for alternator but still need water pump one. Thank god the crank already is a double. Will save up for correct alternator wires and battery. Gotta redo house bank too. Fuel pump is not being used, got a low amp electric one, will do the block off plate soon also. Thanks everyone for all the advice and tips. You all are helpful as usual!!
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Old 02-29-2020, 07:07 PM   #26
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Another cause of premature belt failure can be misalignment of the pulleys, twisting and excessively loading the belt. Worth checking.
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Old 02-29-2020, 07:13 PM   #27
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Invest in a 100amp battery tester from HARBOUR FREIGHT , check battery then connect to starter terminal and do a discharge test there. All will be revealed. It will be the best $19.99 you ever spent.
https://www.harborfreight.com/100-am...ter-61747.html
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Old 02-29-2020, 07:33 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin J View Post
Invest in a 100amp battery tester from HARBOUR FREIGHT , check battery then connect to starter terminal and do a discharge test there. All will be revealed. It will be the best $19.99 you ever spent.
https://www.harborfreight.com/100-am...ter-61747.html
I have one of those, so does RTF I think. The load test is complete when you smell smoke.
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Old 02-29-2020, 08:29 PM   #29
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They are not the elite of testers at only 100amp. but will test the circuit as you move it down the starting circuit and show poor connections etc.
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Old 03-01-2020, 01:25 AM   #30
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Greetings,
Mr. PM. Um, a bit of misinformation in your post IMO. ANY engine will start without an alternator. Gassers can run quite happily until the battery goes dead and can't provide ignition power. Once started (without an alternator) diesels will run until shut down. All bets are off IF the water pump is belt driven and that belt is part of the alternator loop. Both will overheat.


A warm engine usually starts much more readily as compared to a cold start.
Mostly true. Many diesels have some kind of electrical solenoid to cut off fuel. Once the battery dies the solenoid closes unless you physically wire the solenoid open. On older engines like the Lehman’s that have physical devices used to cut off fuel they will run until the run out fuel.
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Old 03-01-2020, 08:13 AM   #31
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The budget way to monitor a boats DC electric is to wire a set of terminals to the dash area from the big contact an the starter , and the starter case..


Plug in that harbor Freight meter before staring, observe the volts, 12.8 or so, crank away on the starter , usually 9.5 volts in minimum while cranking.
When the beast starts look at the meter again the V should now be higher than before the start.

After an hour or so the V should be about 13.8 to 14.4 , all is well.DONE!
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Old 03-01-2020, 11:02 AM   #32
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Yes, you can do a lot with a little bit of instrumentation. Volts is easy and effective, if done at the correct point in the system, per FF.
One can also consider a Hall effect device on the battery wire. Run to a portable storage scope, you can read instantaneous starter current to move each cylinder. Any outliers become obvious as compression varies. Much faster than pulling injectors, etc. you can also see the effect of multi Vis oils, and temperature.
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Old 03-01-2020, 11:06 AM   #33
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When I did my starter voltage drop test, I had 9.8 V at the starter terminal while it was cranking.
It was not enough. It was cranking very slowly.
After the new cable I had 10.8 v. That was able to spin the starter like crazy.
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