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Old 08-27-2017, 03:09 PM   #21
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Well at every 400 hours the OM states to:
A. Adjustment of engine idle, if necessary
B. Adjustment of valve clearance
C. Checkup of starter motor, alternator and regulator
D. Checkup of glow plugs
E. Removal of cooling water and flushing is suggested.

At Servicing at every 800 hours of operation
A. Checkup of nozzle·s
B. Check compression pressure Remove each glow plug and check cylinders, one by one, using a compression pressure gauge.
C. Fuel injection adjustment - In case of severe vibration during idling, have it repaired at an authorized distributor or dealer which is equipped with a pump tester.

So I guess that's a place to start to give this thing a longer life.

John
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:07 AM   #22
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Sorry, maybe i missed it but what engine are we talking about here??

Any smaller engine under 150 Hp @ 9000 hrs will require major surgery unless done sooner? most smaller engines actually suffer from major corrosion issues internally before they actually wear out?

Dont plan on any major trips!!!

Cheers Steve
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:16 AM   #23
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Hey Sunchaser,

It's a Westerbeke 100 6 cyl diesel. In your part of the world it's actually easier to get engine parts as the block is a Mazda T4100. (I got by new fresh water pump from Aus. after market dealer.)

Putting in an order today for a through look at.

John
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:52 AM   #24
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Sorry, maybe i missed it but what engine are we talking about here??

Any smaller engine under 150 Hp @ 9000 hrs will require major surgery unless done sooner? most smaller engines actually suffer from major corrosion issues internally before they actually wear out?

Dont plan on any major trips!!!

Cheers Steve
Huh? There may be some specific engines and/or engines set up with raw water cooling that fit this description, but many many trawler type engines go for that long or much longer without major issues.

Ken
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Old 08-28-2017, 05:02 PM   #25
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Ken,

reading the recent exchange perhaps I misspoke.

The Sea water was turned off during the sea trial 3 years ago and the fresh water made hot hot hot.

The freshwater pump bearings gave out ( no surprise as 27 years is pretty good for a sealed bearing).

Now I do not have an over heating problem. (ran 10 hours at 2800 rpm and 180 degrees)

BUT.... I checked the belt for the salt water pump, and I thought it was a little loose ( have to check the specs).

And yes, the cast iron diesels run for a long time based on work load and maintenance.
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Old 08-28-2017, 05:29 PM   #26
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PMF

All us TFites can do is opine on your stated problems and findings. You are implying your serious overheat, melted exhaust, new found exhaust steam and running rough are no problem? Excellent if all your issues have evaporated.

But be observant, check things out as previously raised and be religious on PMs. Happy cruising!
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:32 PM   #27
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Thanks for all the replies, I'm placing my engine in the hands of the able folks at Fairhaven Shipyard.

I'll let you all know the outcome.
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Old 06-01-2018, 09:07 AM   #28
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What was the outcome?

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Old 06-01-2018, 10:33 AM   #29
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The rate of coolant loss has not increased, still some days coming north (10 hours at 2800 rpm) I would lose a little coolant - some days not.

I did notice that the filler crap was leaking, and read that this should be replaced when I changed the coolant. I got a new filler cap but have not run engine since.

So the jury is out, but it would explain symptoms.
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Old 06-01-2018, 12:05 PM   #30
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Hoses shrink when cold. Not uncommon for coolant to drip out of hoses during winter temps.
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:13 PM   #31
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Ski,
This would occur when underway, would that apply?
John
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Old 06-01-2018, 02:01 PM   #32
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No, only a problem with cold storage.
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Old 06-01-2018, 03:52 PM   #33
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Rather than speculating where your coolant could be going, why don't you pressure test the system.

Check with your local auto parts store. They often rent or loan cooling testing kits to their customers. Pressurize the system using one of their adapters at the filler neck. Then look for leaks. Wipe each hose connection with a paper towel and look for coolant. You can even dye the coolant to make it show up in black light.

If you can't find a leak, then watch the gauge and see if it drops over an hour. Any pressure drop is an indication of a leak so keep looking. The leak may be in the main heat exchanger or lube oil cooler if it is coolant cooled. Or it could be a head gasket. Check for the later by looking for bubbles in the overflow reservoir while under load.

But my guess is that this small leak is at a hose connection and you will quickly find it if you pressure test.

David
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Old 06-01-2018, 07:04 PM   #34
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I bought a pressure test kit for about $80 off Amazon. Found my leak in a couple of minutes. Cheaper than hiring a mechanic for sure.
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Old 11-02-2018, 08:24 AM   #35
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lack of coolant

Just as an update on my coolant loss. I operated under the theory that perhaps it was just the tank cap that was the problem, so I got two replacement caps from Westerbeke. These both leaked when the boat was at rest.

I noticed that my expansion thank had a crack under the mounting wire and theorized that when the engine was hot the coolant expanded and leaked out the crack. Got a new tank.

Still had a problem.

Checking on something else, I noticed a small sputtering (I was underway at the time) at a mounting bolt for the fresh water pump which is mounted on the engine. I know that the Palmer Dodge engine head bolts pierced the water jacket and you had to put sealant on the head bolts. Do I have the same situation here? If so what is the proper sealant?

Thanks for suggestions so far.

John
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Old 11-02-2018, 10:18 AM   #36
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Checking on something else, I noticed a small sputtering (I was underway at the time) at a mounting bolt for the fresh water pump which is mounted on the engine. I know that the Palmer Dodge engine head bolts pierced the water jacket and you had to put sealant on the head bolts. Do I have the same situation here? If so what is the proper sealant?

Thanks for suggestions so far.

John

If its just the bolt threads and not a crack.... The old standby for bolts that penetrated the water jacket was Permatex #2. That would certainly work but there are probably better things these days - something like Permatex Ultra Black.


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Old 11-04-2018, 12:23 PM   #37
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I tried some red gasket maker around the bolt just under the head. The bolt was not tight. Water pump replacement last year seems to have been done with the old lock washers.
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