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Old 01-31-2015, 08:28 PM   #21
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We had gone through a large patch of fine sea grass. The strainer was full and the seacock was jammed with grass. It took a good but of time to clear all the blockage. It didn't leave us enough time to get to Bimini before sunset do we came back to Miami.
Interesting. I've only seen that happen at anchor with genset and A/C strainers, never underway to engine strainers. Usually when underway the grass just gets pushed aside and with the inlet for the engine strainer being several feet underwater not much grass finds its way in there. First time for everything I guess. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 01-31-2015, 08:36 PM   #22
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Looked at the SpeedSeal website and that and the Speedseal Life look like pretty good products.
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Old 02-01-2015, 08:32 AM   #23
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Looked at the SpeedSeal website and that and the Speedseal Life look like pretty good products.
Our boat came with SpeedSeals on the mains and they're a great improvement over the stock impeller covers. Four large knurled thumbscrews instead of the usual 6 or 8 micro screws. Nice O-ring seal vs the flimsy paper gasket. Heavy-duty cover plate that puts strong, even pressure on the O-ring. Makes hanging over the starboard engine to swap impellers a much easier task. All in all, a well designed product IMHO.

(Correction to my original post for any careful readers out there: I did not install these; the PO did. Not sure where that thought came from.)
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:50 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11 View Post
Interesting. I've only seen that happen at anchor with genset and A/C strainers, never underway to engine strainers. Usually when underway the grass just gets pushed aside and with the inlet for the engine strainer being several feet underwater not much grass finds its way in there. First time for everything I guess. Thanks for sharing.
A few months ago my neighbors boat here at the Marina was put back in at Yacht services at to low of a tide, they wait for the tide to come up to start the egines but the mud sand and a little grass had been pushed into one of the intake it destroyed one of the impellers

But like you have never seen it underway but would normally be me to do it first
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:23 AM   #25
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Yeah I could see that happening at that yard. Very shallow there.

On a side note, it's sad seeing what that yard has become knowing its previous history.
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:25 PM   #26
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This thread prompted me to change the impeller on my Starboard CAT engine. My log indicates that it has about 1,000 hours on it after traveling the east coast from CT to FL for the past 2-years. Roughly 250 hours each way including some side trips. I was pleased to find the impeller in virtually new condition. Not a tear, crack, or deformation anywhere.

I replaced it with a new one and will keep the old as a spare. I will not change the port engine impeller as that pump was rebuilt last year. In researching impeller pullers, I found this information on the Seaboard Marine website thought it might be of interest:

Tricks & Tips to extract an Impeller


This is something that should and needs to be done with ALL impellers when you are removing them... Once the cover plate is removed, you need to spray WD-40 (or something similar) inside the housing and into the spline or key & shaft area (liberally) and then BUMP the engine. Then spray it one more time and bump the engine again... TWO times and now that impeller is ready to be removed.

Once you do that, it will "break" the dry bond that always seems to occur between the rubber and the housing and also loosen up the spline (or key). This is essential during any impeller removal and now the impeller will slide out EASILY.

When installing a new impeller, throw out all that crap about lubing - Use any common white lithium grease (or similar grease) and life becomes easy for all� Instant prime too. Be sloppy with it, coat all inside, shaft and impeller and I personally guarantee it with not hurt your impeller if you are planning to finish the job and test the engine within a few days or so... That old wives' tale has got to go - But, if this makes you squeamish, then go ahead and use a synthetic or silicone based grease made specifically for all types of rubber elastomers.

Also, all that crap about which way the vanes have to go is also just that - TOTAL CRAP... It makes ZERO difference as the split second the engine cranks, the blades will flip as needed. But of course, after any impeller replacement, do a test and check for leaks, etc.

Happy Fishin'����Tony
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Old 02-01-2015, 02:04 PM   #27
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I ran a pair of sherwoods on Cummins for years in a low time sandy water situation. Rarely lost a vane but often had seal failures leading to bearing failures and leaks.


The seals just don't seem to like to sit.
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Old 02-01-2015, 02:19 PM   #28
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What happens on the Cummins P17XX Sherwoods is that the carbon/ceramic face seal bonds while sitting. Then when rotated, the face seal stays bonded and the shaft spins inside the seal, where it should not. Then that wears things and it leaks there. On machines that don't sit long, the pumps are fine.

They have upgraded these pumps a few times. I don't know if they actually fixed the issue, but new ones I've installed have not had problems.

When changing the impeller, look at snap ring holding seal washer in place. If snap ring has polished the washer surface, shaft is spinning in seal and seal is not long for this world.
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:50 PM   #29
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Replaced Impeller, need to prime pump

I have a Hirshine 37, with twin Watermota Sealion 120s. Using the boat the other day, the port engine died! It was running hot, smoke and the smell of burning rubber. I thought the worst, Oh no new engine!... The next day, i used a 24" bar with a socket on the crank, it moved freely. I thought okay, I dont need to repalce the engine. It started fine, no water coming out of the exhaust. Okay must be water pump. The impeller was completely shot! No splines on it at all. So, it was replaced. Now, I have to prime the pump.... Anyone have any suggestion as to how I force sea water back into the raw water pump?
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:53 PM   #30
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Ours primes by itself since the impeller is below the waterline. Are you sure yours isnít self priming? Crack the impeller cover plate with the seacock open and see if water comes out.
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:23 PM   #31
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Like others, I replace my impellers on the 3208s and generator every March when I change the oil. I keep the best as spares just in case......
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Old 08-02-2020, 06:19 AM   #32
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The usual hard part of an impeller change is getting at the tiny brass screws that hold the cover on.

A slot screw driver is a PIA as it must be lined up well.

By removing the slotted screws and using Allen head SS screws no looking is required , it can be done by feel.

Best of all the Allen head screws will frequently stay on the wrench when reinstalling.

Purchase a box of 100 , as sometimes they don't , and fall off.

Remember the brass screws are weak , and so are the SS replacements , go EZ installing.

If you have a walk around engine room and can stand and address the engine properly , it still speeds up the process.
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Old 08-02-2020, 07:22 AM   #33
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You mean you don't change your oil in the fall before layup so that your engine doesn't disintegrate from all that acid in the oil?
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Like others, I replace my impellers on the 3208s and generator every March when I change the oil. I keep the best as spares just in case......
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Old 08-02-2020, 09:09 AM   #34
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hmason, thanks for the WD40 tip!

You'd think a guy like me who feels the day is not complete unless I've JB welded something back together would'a thought of that. Tips like this are what make TF forum worth my time.

Small giveback: I put a tee fitting on the standpipe of my raw water intake, the branch ends in-line with the standpipe above the ball valve. The top branch has a hose fitting that I use for a fresh water flush of the salt water side.

After install, I realized I could run a dowel or broom handle down that tee fitting & through the valve to clear big stuff out of the standpipe, like mussels.
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Old 08-02-2020, 10:52 AM   #35
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The usual hard part of an impeller change is getting at the tiny brass screws that hold the cover on.

A slot screw driver is a PIA as it must be lined up well.

By removing the slotted screws and using Allen head SS screws no looking is required , it can be done by feel.

Best of all the Allen head screws will frequently stay on the wrench when reinstalling.
I did this in 2013 and it's made impeller changes much easier and quicker.

I did the same on my Jabsco QuietFlush head pump. If someone throws something inappropriate into the toilet and it gets stuck, it's now much easier to access and reassemble.
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Old 08-02-2020, 11:24 AM   #36
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You mean you don't change your oil in the fall before layup so that your engine doesn't disintegrate from all that acid in the oil?
We use the boat year round as we are full time cruisers. I change the oil every 320 hours or one year. I also have the oil analyzed each time and my engines are great each year.
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Old 08-02-2020, 07:26 PM   #37
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I change my oil when the oil analysis reports tells me it's time. Any earlier I consider it a waste of time, still-good oil, and money. Few would agree with me, I know.
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We use the boat year round as we are full time cruisers. I change the oil every 320 hours or one year. I also have the oil analyzed each time and my engines are great each year.
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Old 08-02-2020, 07:29 PM   #38
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I pull the cover annually if I’m not having problems and inspect.
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