Hose to Copper Tube connection

[Rain Dog]

Updating hoses on my new-to-me trawler. The generator fuel line is copper tubing for part of the run, then hose the rest of the way. On the generator side, it is attached the usual way with hose clamps. Where it attached to the copper tubing, I have no idea how to replace it. See picture. Do I buy hoses that already have this connection or do I make it myself?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QQv16xkwUA3wTwoWF-y59_27lZTFrUbN/view?usp=sharing

 

[sdowney717]

Looks like a standard flared copper fitting.

You can buy flare adapters to barbed hose ends if you need to replace the rubber hoses.

If you need to replace the copper tube, you can easily make your own flares in copper with a flare tool.
I would heat the copper tube with a torch to anneal the tubing first, that makes the copper soft and easy to work, less likely to crack.

 

[fryedaze]

I just had some hoses made. I walked into a hydraulic shop and walked out with hoses in about 10 minutes. They make on the spot hoses while you wait. I have a setup like the one in the picture . I had them make a hose to replace the copper.

 

[Lepke]

The fittings in the picture are "push on", available at most auto parts stores or online. In theory they grip the hose, but the addition of a hose clamp is better.

 

[psneeld]

Believe ABYC and USCG both require a hose clamp even for puch on fittings, not for crimped.......if you care to follow those guidelines.

 

[Rain Dog]

Believe ABYC and USCG both require a hose clamp even for puch on fittings, not for crimped.......if you care to follow those guidelines.

I definitely care to follow those guidelines. It was the lack of a hose clamp that confused me. I thought they were some kind of pre-crimped fitting, but the two look totally different.

I think I will work to replace all the copper with hose.

 

[fryedaze]

I definitely care to follow those guidelines. It was the lack of a hose clamp that confused me. I thought they were some kind of pre-crimped fitting, but the two look totally different.

I think I will work to replace all the copper with hose.

You can put compression fittings on the copper and then have hoses made.

 

[TDunn]

Why not ditch the copper and go with 100% hose. One continuous run.

 

[Maerin]

The fittings are push-lok. They don't meet standards. Have hoses made, they can fit the end to mate to your existing flared connections. Someone recommended a compression fitting, don't do it. Regular plumbing compression fittings are a poor choice for fuel lines. Stop-gap repairs only. You can re-form your own flare fittings, use cast forged nuts, and use a flaring tool like a Ridgid that has an eccentric die that rolls the flare edge rather than one that is straight on swage. Always de-burr the tube before flaring. When making up flare joints, you can add a bit of insurance by cleaning the male flare fitting prior to assembly and putting a film of blue LeakLock on the flare surface. Make sure the threads are lubricated. Teflon tape has no place in flare joint work. There should be no problem with re-using the existing flare as long as you match the flare angle with the new hose.

 

[fryedaze]

You can put compression fittings on the copper and then have hoses made.

As corrected by Mr. M, use flare fittings not compression. I mixed up the terminology.

 

[fryedaze]

You can put compression fittings on the copper and then have hoses made.

As corrected by Mr. M , use flare fittings not compression. I mixed up the terminology.