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06-01-2016, 09:04 AM
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#21
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Guru
City: Cary, NC
Vessel Name: Skinny Dippin'
Vessel Model: Navigator 4200 Classic
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,841
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__________________
2000 Navigator 4200 Classic
(NOT a trawler)
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06-01-2016, 09:11 AM
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#22
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Guru
City: Hotel, CA
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 8,323
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So tell us how much saltwater did the old Hatt leak into the engine rooms? How full did you let the bilge get before pumping it overboard?
Use whatever floats your boat (pun intended) but save us the drama about the hundreds of thousands of boats sitting in marinas right now worldwide in danger of blowing a through hull hose off its barbed connection because the clamp is junk. More boater folklore than fact in this thread from my point of view.
__________________
Craig
It's easier to fool people than to convince them that they've been fooled - Mark Twain
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06-01-2016, 09:20 AM
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#23
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Guru
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,274
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Here is one of the original Sabre supplied clamps that I've never bothered to change (I'll change it today). It is on a water tank to water pump low pressure hose and although it is too large it is not as large as some where!
I'm in the middle of disinfecting the water system today...
Bruce
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06-01-2016, 09:37 AM
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#24
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatpoker
I can find no such reference in my copy, Exactly what Standard and where within the standard.
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Poker,
You must be the local fact checker.
On forums opinions rule.
Re common sense if you have any between checking standards in books it should be fairly obvious double clamping would be ineffective on a short nipple.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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06-01-2016, 10:42 AM
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#25
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,682
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Granted there are different quality of clamps but I've had every type of clamp mentioned here fail at one time or another. Checking the clamps should be preventative maintenance. I try to go around at least once a year and check every clamp. I'd rather replace/tighten them on my schedule.
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06-01-2016, 10:44 AM
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#26
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Guru
City: Hotel, CA
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 8,323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce B
Here is one of the original Sabre supplied clamps that I've never bothered to change (I'll change it today). It is on a water tank to water pump low pressure hose and although it is too large it is not as large as some where!
I'm in the middle of disinfecting the water system today...
Bruce
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Hmmmm...
11 year old oversized cheap clamp from a saltwater environment... And it's being changed before it fails as part of a preventative maintenance program.
Well done
__________________
Craig
It's easier to fool people than to convince them that they've been fooled - Mark Twain
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06-01-2016, 10:58 AM
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#27
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Guru
City: Powell River, BC
Vessel Name: Northern Spy
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 26
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,075
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Hose Clamps Are Not All The Same
I like AWABs. But only the 316. I saw that some unscrupulous sellers(eBay & Amazon) had some 304s for sale at 316 pricing.
I'm not one to reuse hose clamps or fasteners. When doing maintenance, I replace rather than reuse. SCC and crevice corrosion kinda sneak up on you.
That said, I agree that there is a lot of overkill in the the whole safety aspect of hose clamps. It seems the norm to have to work the hose off of a nipple.
I would also speculate that those boaters on a boating forum are more cautious on their operation and maintenance. Otherwise, why would one even be here if it wasn't to seek information and betterment?
I'm anal by training and not necessarily by nature. Spinning wrenches on a submarine does that to one. That's my excuse.
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06-01-2016, 11:34 AM
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#28
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Guru
City: Seaford Va on Poquoson River, VA
Vessel Name: Old Glory
Vessel Model: 1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,264
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If 2 clamps are good, then 3 clamps are better.
Make sure the hose adapter is long enough.
I have sometimes used thinner perforated clamps when the hose adapter is too short.
Other thing, on most all my suction lines, the hose fits tight to the hose adapter, it can not just slip off. I could run with no clamps fine.
Some of my adapters are simply bronze pipe nipples apparently cut in half with a tight fitting hose pushed on. Marine hose can be bought in 1/8 sizes. Boat is almost 50 years old and has never sunk.
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06-01-2016, 11:39 AM
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#29
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Guru
City: Brookline, NH
Vessel Name: Shalloway
Vessel Model: Defever 44, twin Perkins
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdowney717
If 2 clamps are good, then 3 clamps are better.
Make sure the hose adapter is long enough.
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At some point in the past a PO of my boat installed "second" hose clamps *everywhere* regardless of need or even worse, if there was room. I found several instances of hose clamps not over the hose barb at all but instead constricting and possibly damaging the hose.
Ken
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06-01-2016, 12:14 PM
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#30
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,149
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Good perspective Spy....I agree....each time I take something apart to fix, I try to make it a little better in some way...
My issue is when the partly line is to blatantly follow the "herd".....
Most of my part time boating friends tend to blindly follow things they read in their magazines and hear at boat shows and either spend big bucks or delay boating time worried about upgrading or fixing things that really are OK.....especially because their typical boating is done in areas and conditions that are benign.
If I had planned to cruise in very remote areas, areas prone to sudden violent storms or push the limits of a vessel...well heck....I wouldn't have bought the boat I did. So why would I or anyone else be obsessed with trying bit by bit to upgrade it into a world class cruiser?
Not only is it a waste of my time but money as well....I will spend the money and time on parts and projects that I know are a definite help....but too many days running , working on, salvaging and saving boats have given me a perspective of what is OK versus overkill.
In many hose applications on all kinds of appliances, cars, etc...are nothing more than zip ties or press together plastic clamps.
So if your thing is go all the way...every time...on everything....great....enjoy and take pride...
But I hope every boater with limited experience doesn't feel the need to do anything more than good maintenance with good, but not necessarily top of the line parts. As long as they know what they have and that boats require vigilance, whether gold plated or run of the mill, they can relax.
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06-01-2016, 02:55 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
City: Seattle
Vessel Name: Poach
Vessel Model: Sabreline Trawler
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
What determines a junk clamp? Just perferations?
Nice clamps are great.....but good installation of decent (not top of the line).clamps and checking critical ones is way more important.
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Well said in my opinion. I have had hoses but not clamps fail. The only thing I would add to this discussion is that on critical hoses, I double and reverse clamp the hose.
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06-01-2016, 03:44 PM
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#32
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Guru
City: Here
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy
Poker,
You must be the local fact checker.
On forums opinions rule.
Re common sense if you have any between checking standards in books it should be fairly obvious double clamping would be ineffective on a short nipple.
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What an unwarranted cheap shot and curious thing to say since I offered no opinion whatsoever on any clamps or methods. I merely provided information as to what the ABYC Standards say since another poster had stated incorrect information.
And yes I do have some common sense and there are several areas on my website where I point out the potential folly of a second clamp .... with photos of examples such as shown in my Marine Survey 101 article. This article with photos by the way was first posted on this forum in May of 2012.
Apology accepted.
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06-01-2016, 03:53 PM
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#33
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poach
[/I]
Well said in my opinion. I have had hoses but not clamps fail. The only thing I would add to this discussion is that on critical hoses, I double and reverse clamp the hose.
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I forgot where...maybe BoatUS...checked with clamp manufactures and ran tests...didn't note a significant difference in reverse clamping and the manufacturers of at least some said not necessary.
Have to look that back up...both did say size is more important for a good circular clamping force IIRC.
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06-01-2016, 04:29 PM
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#34
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,870
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Some folks seem to be in a preaching mode today.
Your boat may be worth $50K, it may be worth $500K. Your life is worth what you think it's worth.
West Marine sells two different kinds of clamps. One is about $2 and one is about $5. That $3 difference is pretty small compared to the value of your boat. Or your life.
I spend the $3. Not that I have to, because I can and the better clamp gives me peace of mind.
And yes, I use two clamps in critical applications.
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06-01-2016, 06:15 PM
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#35
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Guru
City: Fort Myers, FL... Summers in the Great Lakes
Vessel Name: Slow Hand
Vessel Model: Cherubini Independence 45
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,834
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I double clamp all that will take 2 properly. Use T bolt clamps on exhaust and fuel fill hose. If the hose has wire in it to keep from collapsing, I use a T bolt as it often takes a little more pressure to make them seal tight. With the exception of T bolt clamps, I only buy in boxes of 10 which significantly reduces the price and gives me spares. Hose clamps are like zip ties. One hundred 8" zip ties are $7. One thousand, same brand and same store, are $20. From my refit bill, I was paying $10 to $16 per box for clamps. Biggest was for 1.5" id hose.
Ted
__________________
Blog: mvslowhand.com
I'm tired of fast moves, I've got a slow groove, on my mind.....
I want to spend some time, Not come and go in a heated rush.....
"Slow Hand" by The Pointer Sisters
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06-01-2016, 10:09 PM
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#36
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Guru
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,308
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Another type of clamp I'm seeing more and more is the constant torque clamp.
They are spring loaded so as the hose expands or shrinks with temperature the compression remains constant. Following is a link to my website. Please forgive me for breaking the rules. I couldn't find the manufacturer's website.
Stainless Steel Constant Torque Exhaust Clamps Mfg# 730
__________________
Parks Masterson
Retired from Hopkins-Carter Marine Supply
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06-01-2016, 10:15 PM
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#37
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Guru
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,308
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These can keep blood from leaking out of you when working in tight places.
Clamp-Aid® Hose clamp end guards marine parts auto parts
__________________
Parks Masterson
Retired from Hopkins-Carter Marine Supply
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06-02-2016, 03:55 AM
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#38
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Guru
City: Sydney
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar
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Bugger me they take the fun out of everything these days
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06-02-2016, 08:03 AM
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#39
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Guru
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaston
Déjà vu Hose Clamps
In my humble opinion both of those hose clamps in that photo are junk
T bolt clamps will never let you down
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Well not exactly.
I've seen plenty of T bolt clamps fail. They seem to fail for the most part where the bolt meets the T. The bolt snaps at that point from what I'd call crevice corrosion. I've also seen the nut seize up on the bolt.
In fact I think I've seen as many or more T bolt clamp failures than I've seen AWBA clamps fail.
But YMMV.
And the T bolt clamps in the picture appear not to have SS T bolts but cadmium plated ones.
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06-02-2016, 08:05 AM
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#40
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Guru
City: Atlantic Highlands, NJ
Vessel Name: Moana Huaka'i
Vessel Model: Selene 53
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar
Another type of clamp I'm seeing more and more is the constant torque clamp.
They are spring loaded so as the hose expands or shrinks with temperature the compression remains constant. Following is a link to my website. Please forgive me for breaking the rules. I couldn't find the manufacturer's website.
Stainless Steel Constant Torque Exhaust Clamps Mfg# 730
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I've used these and so far I like them. Haven't seen rust issues, they won't cut you, and so far they haven't seized up after being on for a while.
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