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Old 04-16-2018, 07:08 PM   #21
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Slightly off topic for SKI. Do you need to do similar for Perkins 6.354? I could not find anything in the manuals.
I think most Perkins use a viscous damper, which tends to be more reliable than the rubber bonded ones. If you can post a pic, I can tell which it is.
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:17 PM   #22
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...The trick was to have the end of the breaker bar in the air, about a foot off the engine support stringer. When the starter motor fired, the bar slammed into the engine support and the bolt freed...
I’ve been following this thread, we also have a SP 135. Wes, “you’re better man than I am, Gunga Din”! I have heard about doing something similar but you are the first. Holy Shit!!! By the way, congrats on getting the bolt loose.
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:51 PM   #23
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I think most Perkins use a viscous damper, which tends to be more reliable than the rubber bonded ones. If you can post a pic, I can tell which it is.
I found a DAMPER on the parts list #32 but nothing in the service manual about replacement.
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:54 AM   #24
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I didn't see anything in my manual about the balancer (though it might be in there), I just noticed the crankshaft pulley was wobbly and apparently it definitely needed replacement. If your engines are over 30 years old, I wouldn't be surprised if yours are shot too; what kind of rubber really lasts that long? Mark the inner and outer ring and see if they're slipping. I could make mine slip by hand...

I was also worried about the installation; called Brian at American Diesel and he said that was the easy part, just tighten it up - looks like there's a few ways to keep the crankshaft pulley from spinning while you do it.

Ended up sending the balancers to Dale at Dale Manufacturing. The guy responded to my email immediately, is very nice, and enthusiastic. He's done a few different Lehman pulleys before. He is charging $130 per, for appx 8-inch pulleys. USPS flat rate shipping, and I should have them back next week. Pretty pumped you guys told be about rebuilding them.

The bolt is standard, right handed thread. Don't think it matters which way it tightens since it's so freakin tight; also, the pulley is keyed. Word is, don't scratch the oil sealing ring. Also ordered new seals from American Diesel even though mine weren't leaking - I hope to never do this again so am making sure my ass is covered.
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:04 AM   #25
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Proof!
You can tell I've been doing engine maintenance by the bruised thumbnail.
The seals look easy to pry out (indicated by the blue arrow) though I haven't tried yet.
My auto-sized balancer puller was too small for the job, so I had to 'adapt' it with a bunch of other hardware lying around the boat.
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Old 04-21-2018, 04:54 PM   #26
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Question, what do you mean by a 'weak cylinder' and how would this be diagnosed? The girls have 4500 hours, and they seem to run great.
Quick check is to loosen each injectors HP fuel feed line, one at a time, while the engine idles. It should slow the rpm and cause the motor to run rough.
If loosing a particular injectors fuel line has no effect, that cylinder has a problem, then all you have to do is figure out what that might be!
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