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Old 04-03-2020, 04:55 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by syjos View Post
After bleeding the injection pump, start the engine and bleed the injection pipes to individual cylinders.

I place a towel over the big nuts on the side of the head that the injection pipes go into and loosen the nut 1/4 turn or until the engine loses RPM or stumbles, one cylinder at a time. Tighten the nut, the speed should pick back up and go to the next cylinder. That will insure no air in the pipes.

If you loosen the big nut and the engine does not lose speed or stumble, that cylinder is not firing. Or if one cylinder does not slow as much as other cylinders, that cylinder is not operating at 100%. The concept is similar to disconnecting spark plug wires on a gas engine to locate a dead cylinder. I check it couple times a year to make sure all cylinders are firing.

Will try this after the fuel system is put back together and I mess with the stop linkage some more. Either way, it should be done. Thanks for the procedures.
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Old 04-03-2020, 09:51 AM   #82
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Somebody asked why I didn't suggest fixing the cold start system. I agree it should be done. We all want all systems working as they should.
But.... It's a rebuilt engine and pump, compression and fueling will never be better. If it's right. Also it's been a fairly warm spring so far. I just feel that the engine should start without it. Does the other engine start w/o using the cold start ? By all means swap the cold start parts between engines and try. Do Ford Lehmans have glow plugs or just shoot extra fuel with the cold start ? If just fuel would opening the throttle more do the same thing ? Just trying to give general ideas that apply to any engine to maybe help.
I know what you mean about no joy. Our boat is on the hard and no idea when we might get to it this year.
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Old 04-03-2020, 10:30 AM   #83
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Somebody asked why I didn't suggest fixing the cold start system. I agree it should be done. We all want all systems working as they should.
But.... It's a rebuilt engine and pump, compression and fueling will never be better. If it's right. Also it's been a fairly warm spring so far. I just feel that the engine should start without it. Does the other engine start w/o using the cold start ? By all means swap the cold start parts between engines and try. Do Ford Lehmans have glow plugs or just shoot extra fuel with the cold start ? If just fuel would opening the throttle more do the same thing ? Just trying to give general ideas that apply to any engine to maybe help.
I know what you mean about no joy. Our boat is on the hard and no idea when we might get to it this year.



Cold start system is part of the injection pump. At this point I would rather do without than make the swap. No small endeavor. No glow plugs in Lehmans 2715E motors. Other motor starts just fine without the cold start function.
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Old 04-03-2020, 11:11 AM   #84
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Cold start system is part of the injection pump. At this point I would rather do without than make the swap. No small endeavor. No glow plugs in Lehmans 2715E motors. Other motor starts just fine without the cold start function.
Yes I see that now and probably an automatic one as noted here. That leaves the adjustment for the stop since it does not stay pushed in.
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Old 04-03-2020, 11:11 AM   #85
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The point of the cold start is to bypass the restrictions of the injection pump, possibly out of time or suffering air leaks, to see if the engine starts promptly. This will isolate your start problem to the injection pump or the Fuel distribution system and prove that the engine was properly assembled.

Of course you donít need it on a normal engine. I never used mine, Except For Toubleshooting!!

After all, you did come to us for help?
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Old 04-03-2020, 11:29 AM   #86
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Check for air in the fuel line going to inj pump already.
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Old 04-03-2020, 02:13 PM   #87
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Looks like the solution(s) was found. I read on another site that another symptom of air in the lines is surging after eventually getting it started. Mine would surge until warmed up. It fluctuated about 200 rpm up and down rather quickly (yes, I did leave that out of my initial messages as I assumed that was normal after listening to others). Along with the reasoning from all of you, I replaced the fuel lines and deleted the mechanical pump. After installing 3/8 inch A1 rated line from the primary filter (Racor 1000) to the new electric fuel pump, and then from the FP to the dual spin-on secondary filters, it started right up after bleeding. Actually, it started up within 5 seconds. Hadn't been started in a few days at last. Ambient temp in the ER was 50 degrees F. I kept it at 65 all winter and had these issues. Surging is only 40-50 rpm wen warming up now.

Also noticed that I could take a whole 5 turns out of the Stop linkage and was still able to shut it down normally. This could have been part of the issue as well. Still maybe not 100% adjusted correctly, but works fine.

Thank you all very much. I am still going to bleed the injectors, but I think the main issue has been resolved. I am going to get with Brian when all this Virus shit is over and see what he thinks about the Cold Start button not staying in. I am not going to take apart the IP to investigate, right now.
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Old 04-03-2020, 02:24 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by Redhook98 View Post
Looks like the solution(s) was found. I read on another site that another symptom of air in the lines is surging after eventually getting it started. Mine would surge until warmed up. It fluctuated about 200 rpm up and down rather quickly (yes, I did leave that out of my initial messages as I assumed that was normal after listening to others). Along with the reasoning from all of you, I replaced the fuel lines and deleted the mechanical pump. After installing 3/8 inch A1 rated line from the primary filter (Racor 1000) to the new electric fuel pump, and then from the FP to the dual spin-on secondary filters, it started right up after bleeding. Actually, it started up within 5 seconds. Hadn't been started in a few days at last. Ambient temp in the ER was 50 degrees F. I kept it at 65 all winter and had these issues. Surging is only 40-50 rpm wen warming up now.

Also noticed that I could take a whole 5 turns out of the Stop linkage and was still able to shut it down normally. This could have been part of the issue as well. Still maybe not 100% adjusted correctly, but works fine.

Thank you all very much. I am still going to bleed the injectors, but I think the main issue has been resolved. I am going to get with Brian when all this Virus shit is over and see what he thinks about the Cold Start button not staying in. I am not going to take apart the IP to investigate, right now.
Good Job!

I really don't think the cold start feature is worth spending any time on it. I've never used it on mine. Starts with throttle advanced all the way, which is what Brian will probably tell you to do. It seems like a hassle to go into the engine room to activate the cold start feature.

I keep the engine room at about 50 degrees in the winter and the engine starts slow but will start every time without using the start feature.
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:48 PM   #89
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Well done !!
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Old 04-03-2020, 04:03 PM   #90
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Not to crow about it, but in Post #66 I suggested to get rid of the mechanical pump. I am certainly no expert but you already had an electric pump in hand and installing one really isn't much work so why not eliminate the mechanical pump as the source of your problem. You must be elated. I have cold start buttons. Never knew what they were. Never needed them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redhook98 View Post
Looks like the solution(s) was found. I read on another site that another symptom of air in the lines is surging after eventually getting it started. Mine would surge until warmed up. It fluctuated about 200 rpm up and down rather quickly (yes, I did leave that out of my initial messages as I assumed that was normal after listening to others). Along with the reasoning from all of you, I replaced the fuel lines and deleted the mechanical pump. After installing 3/8 inch A1 rated line from the primary filter (Racor 1000) to the new electric fuel pump, and then from the FP to the dual spin-on secondary filters, it started right up after bleeding. Actually, it started up within 5 seconds. Hadn't been started in a few days at last. Ambient temp in the ER was 50 degrees F. I kept it at 65 all winter and had these issues. Surging is only 40-50 rpm wen warming up now.

Also noticed that I could take a whole 5 turns out of the Stop linkage and was still able to shut it down normally. This could have been part of the issue as well. Still maybe not 100% adjusted correctly, but works fine.

Thank you all very much. I am still going to bleed the injectors, but I think the main issue has been resolved. I am going to get with Brian when all this Virus shit is over and see what he thinks about the Cold Start button not staying in. I am not going to take apart the IP to investigate, right now.
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Old 04-03-2020, 04:07 PM   #91
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Good Job!

I really don't think the cold start feature is worth spending any time on it. I've never used it on mine. Starts with throttle advanced all the way, which is what Brian will probably tell you to do. It seems like a hassle to go into the engine room to activate the cold start feature.

I keep the engine room at about 50 degrees in the winter and the engine starts slow but will start every time without using the start feature.
My cold start has a button at the helm. I donít have to go into the engine room.
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Old 04-03-2020, 05:08 PM   #92
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My cold start has a button at the helm. I donít have to go into the engine room.
How does the button at the helm activate the cold start feature? How is it connected to the injection pump? Are your Lehmans 120's?

On the 120, all there is is a button on the pump that gets pushed in to activate the cold start. I can not think of a way to push it in remotely. Maybe a solenoid?
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Old 04-03-2020, 05:35 PM   #93
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Glad you got yours fixed. My engine doesn't lope or hunt once it actually starts so I'll be referring to thread once I get back North to see if I can fix my problem.

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Old 04-03-2020, 05:58 PM   #94
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How does the button at the helm activate the cold start feature? How is it connected to the injection pump? Are your Lehmans 120's?

On the 120, all there is is a button on the pump that gets pushed in to activate the cold start. I can not think of a way to push it in remotely. Maybe a solenoid?
I have not really looked at them, it works so I have left it alone. I have SP225s. I think that there is a solenoid because I hear a click when I push the button. Really have not gotten around to even looking at it since it works, I have enough other things to work on.
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Old 04-03-2020, 06:00 PM   #95
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I have not really looked at them, it works so I have left it alone. I have SP225s. I think that there is a solenoid because I hear a click when I push the button. Really have not gotten around to even looking at it since it works, I have enough other things to work on.
Thanks Dave, the 225's must have a different cold start system. The injection pumps are not the same on the two engines.

I would be curious as to how your cold start is configured.
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Old 04-03-2020, 06:13 PM   #96
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If I remember, I will try to see what it has.
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Old 04-03-2020, 06:35 PM   #97
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If I remember, I will try to see what it has.
Great. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-03-2020, 06:36 PM   #98
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You did understand that I said if I remember...
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Old 04-03-2020, 06:50 PM   #99
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You did understand that I said if I remember...
I might not remember either so don't worry.

What are we talking about?
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