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Old 03-21-2020, 07:04 PM   #21
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@Redhook98
I am having the same problem, so I thank you for posting this up and am looking forward to hearing your resolution/s.
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Old 03-21-2020, 07:28 PM   #22
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Don't know if I will get a chance this year to try the fixes as my boat is in Alaska and I'm not.

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Old 03-21-2020, 08:01 PM   #23
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The nice thing about diesels is, when things go wrong, it is either air or fuel or electric if there is electronic ignition. Of course we need to have the air and fuel in the right place.
No longer do I have a naturally aspirated engine so I need the battery power to start and to keep the engine running.
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Old 03-26-2020, 05:49 AM   #24
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Would adding a heater just be glossing over the real problem?. It starts ok when itís warm so keep it warm - yet no need to fit one to the other engine because it starts just fine when itís cold. Thereís a gremlin hiding there somewhere waiting to be found me thinks.
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Old 03-26-2020, 07:25 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeJay View Post
Would adding a heater just be glossing over the real problem?. It starts ok when it’s warm so keep it warm - yet no need to fit one to the other engine because it starts just fine when it’s cold. There’s a gremlin hiding there somewhere waiting to be found me thinks.

In most situations, I agree with you 100% and am not the kind of person to put a bandaid on things, or gloss over a real problem. But in saying that.... According to Brian, it is most likely there is a compression related issue or injector issue (my next troubleshooting expedition). His logic, (and I agree), is if that is the case, keeping it warm is a much better solution than breaking it apart and attempting to rebuild. It runs perfectly once started and starts very easily when warm. Plus, the rebuild it has only has 100 or so hours on it. Possibly not broken in properly.


It does start even cold now without ether. New batteries (dual Group 31 tractor batteries in parallel) did wonders. The head re-torque and valve adjustments didn't see to make a difference. When cold (40 degrees outside and not started in a few days), it takes about 30 seconds of total cranking (intermittently, not continuous) to start it.
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:08 PM   #26
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Ether is lethal for diesels.

You did not answer, if you had tried starting it with the cold start method?
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:19 PM   #27
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When I was a teenager my dad related a story about a contractor he had engaged who tried to start his D8 Cat Dozer in the dead of a Connecticut winter with ether. He blew the head off.
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Ether is lethal for diesels.

You did not answer, if you had tried starting it with the cold start method?
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:58 PM   #28
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Yes, ether can ruin a diesel. IF you are determined to use it spray it on a rag and hold the rag by the air intake.
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:13 PM   #29
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Ether is lethal for diesels.

You did not answer, if you had tried starting it with the cold start method?



The button on the cold start feature will not stay in. The other motor does, this one does not. holding the Stop button and cranking a little while seems to help (believe that is essentially the same thing)
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:47 PM   #30
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The button on the cold start feature will not stay in. The other motor does, this one does not. holding the Stop button and cranking a little while seems to help (believe that is essentially the same thing)
do you have an electric solonoid? I have manual cable pull, the electric switch may be faulty.

get in ER and have someone press the one working to see what it does and then look at what the other is not doing.
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Old 03-26-2020, 03:14 PM   #31
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The long cranking helps by creating heat in the engine from compression. The cold start feature on my boat works by putting the throttles full open, press and release the cold start button, pull throttles back to idle and then start. By pushing the button I am setting the high speed idle, I think that is what it is called. If yours isn't holding then that may well be your problem. I would troubleshoot that first and see if that fixes it.
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Old 03-26-2020, 03:49 PM   #32
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Red hook 98, the stop button is not at all the same thing. Comodave nailed it. Try that function for the next start and let us know how that works?

Good point about the stop solenoid, does it snap open when you start cranking? If not, it might be delaying the fuel.

Turning over an old clam-crusher like these Lehman’s produces plenty of heat immediately such that diesel fuel ignites immediately. That’s why your good engine starts right up, in fact almost all of them do! At least one cylinder is all it takes.

I think your issue is entirely fuel, there isn’t any getting in right away, there is a delay. If the cold start routine works I would start looking for an injection pump.
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Old 03-27-2020, 03:26 PM   #33
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This is slightly off-topic but, I once owned a DeFever with a single 120 FL that was hard to start (actually would not start) in the cold PNW winter. My solution was to aim a hair dryer into the air intake while cranking. Worked every time. Unplug the shorepower cord and go.
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Old 03-27-2020, 04:43 PM   #34
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This is slightly off-topic but, I once owned a DeFever with a single 120 FL that was hard to start (actually would not start) in the cold PNW winter. My solution was to aim a hair dryer into the air intake while cranking. Worked every time. Unplug the shorepower cord and go.
Hmmm interesting cure. Your preheat glow plug did not work?
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Old 03-27-2020, 05:35 PM   #35
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Hmmm interesting cure. Your preheat glow plug did not work?

This was a FL 2715-E 6 cylinder. They had no glow plugs. The DeFever was a 1979 model. I miss that boat.
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Old 03-27-2020, 05:45 PM   #36
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This was a FL 2715-E 6 cylinder. They had no glow plugs. The DeFever was a 1979 model. I miss that boat.
Wifie bring me your hair dryer so we can leave the dock.
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Old Yesterday, 07:38 PM   #37
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Pre heat

the described scenario is chillingly close to mine in that I rebuilt one of my engines after it got a gut full of sea water from the exhaust and it too was amazingly difficult to start so I fitted an air pre heater from a Mazda 3500 truck engine ($60Aus approx) and I press a button on the dash for 30 seconds prior to ignition ( you need to install a solenoid in the system and take the power for the heater off battery leads at the starter ) and it starts very well. Just to add another place to look in the mix, I was drawing a lot of amps on start up as well and the starter was a bit slower than it should have been and after checking all connections , changing batteries etc, I pulled the starter motor down and one of the brushes was jammed just enough for it to not be making contact so I cleaned all the brushes and guides and now it spins over really fast and with the heater never gives any trouble. Have you compared the spinning/cranking speed to the other motor at start up ?
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Old Today, 02:06 AM   #38
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Air leak

[
QUOTE=jleonard;857845]It also sounds like an air leak to me. I would check every fitting and connection by loosening and retightening.
FF's plan is a good one too.[/QUOTE]

Unless there is something your not telling us itís very, very likely an air leak.
The aero start just kicks it along so rpm is enough to overcome.
Itís going to be nearly impossible to find as fuel probably wonít leak out.
Also when you have fixed it you probably wonít realise until it starts behaving normally.
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