Good Bottle for small amount of diesel?

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Hamrow

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2014
Messages
258
Location
USA
Vessel Make
American Tug 435
This question is related to when you're replacing a fuel filter and you want to squeeze some extra diesel into the new filter to top it off.
I heard of someone using one of those sports bottles with the nipple that pops up on the top.
Sounds like a good size and being able to squeeze it to sort of spray off the internal parts of the filter when switching. It would also seem useful for it to be mostly transparent so you can tell the color and clarity.
I'm curious what other cruisers use for this and is there any concern of degrading that kind of plastic if you leave some fuel in that bottle for long periods in between filter changes...?
 
bottled water bottle is my go to....
 
I use one of these for battery water: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=1846

1831.jpg
 
I just ordered a one-gallon safety can in yellow in order to service my filters. I plan to store it in the lazarette.
 

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If you go to an outdoor/ hiking supply store, you can get a qt. metal bottle for carrying stove fuel. It's compatible with diesel, is not transparent (so no degradation) and will keep a good seal. I've been using mine for about 30 years now. Ben
 
I understand that I have a more modern diesel than many of you, but Cummins is specific in their manual to NOT add diesel to the secondary fuel filter when it is changed.

Now, for my primary Racors I don’t mind adding fuel to the filter. If my fuel tanks are full enough, I find that the Racors will fill themselves with the valves open. It takes a while however.

For storing diesel, my bigger issue is storing for disposal after draining the primary filters to check for water or debri. I keep a used oil container in the ER that I use for depositing the small amount of fuel drained from the filter.
 
Greetings,
Mr. H. Any or all of the above suggestions may work. A lot depends on access to the filter (clearance around and how much you have to contort yourself to carefully fill) and how much you have to add to top up.

I've used the squeeze bottles Mr. b suggested (post #4) in the lab. Depending on the size of the orifice/nozzle, they will dispense a little or a lot per squeeze. Essentially non reactive to acetone, alcohols and various hydrocarbons.

I have a one gallon plastic gas can, painted yellow for topping up my Racor filters. I also use a dollar store measuring cup filled from the 1 gal can and use a skinny funnel for topping up my CAV filters. In MY case, I'm sitting down comfortably and have lots of room to manipulate any cans/cups and funnels.
 
A one gallon polyethylene gas can for me. Sharpie marked "diesel".
 
When I need a little diesel for topping up a filter or injection pump I use a plastic condiment bottle like the ones used for ketchup or mustard. Nice that they have a tiny spout to fit in small holes.
 
I keep a 1 gallon plastic fuel can full of diesel on the boat. Use a one cup glass measuring cup for the small quantities.

Ted
 
"but Cummins is specific in their manual to NOT add diesel to the secondary fuel filter when it is changed."

This is because the fuel using to top off has not been filtered.

The simplest way to top off with a clean fuel is to open a quart of ATF and use it.

Any left over can simply be dumped into the fuel tank.
 
"but Cummins is specific in their manual to NOT add diesel to the secondary fuel filter when it is changed."

This is because the fuel using to top off has not been filtered.

The simplest way to top off with a clean fuel is to open a quart of ATF and use it.

Any left over can simply be dumped into the fuel tank.

Wow! I had no idea ATF burned like (or similar to) diesel.

Thanks FF

Rob
 
Now, for my primary Racors I don’t mind adding fuel to the filter. If my fuel tanks are full enough, I find that the Racors will fill themselves with the valves open. [/QUOTE]

I do the same thing...I guess I don't understand the problem & am quite surprised at how many TFers have separate containers for this operation.:blush:
 
Now, for my primary Racors I don’t mind adding fuel to the filter. If my fuel tanks are full enough, I find that the Racors will fill themselves with the valves open. [/QUOTE]

I do the same thing...I guess I don't understand the problem & am quite surprised at how many TFers have separate containers for this operation.:blush:



If the primary filters are above the level of the fuel tank, then they won’t fill up without adding fuel to the filter. The Tony Athens solution is to put a squeeze bulb loop in the line before the filters and simply pump fuel into the filters.
 
If the primary filters are above the level of the fuel tank, then they won’t fill up without adding fuel to the filter. The Tony Athens solution is to put a squeeze bulb loop in the line before the filters and simply pump fuel into the filters.
I guess I've never had a boat where the Racors are higher than the levels of the fuel tanks. Thanks for that info...another reason I frequent this site.:blush:
 
Now, for my primary Racors I don’t mind adding fuel to the filter. If my fuel tanks are full enough, I find that the Racors will fill themselves with the valves open. [/QUOTE]

I do the same thing...I guess I don't understand the problem & am quite surprised at how many TFers have separate containers for this operation.:blush:

In all my boats the filters would fill themselves if the fuel level in the tanks was higher than the filters. I carried a gallon in a red fuel container marked diesel in case they would not fill themselves.
 
Since I fitted my Vetus engine, I install my filters dry as well. Turning the key to 'ON' and the electric fuel pump primes the filters in about 10 seconds.
 
Water bottles are ok for antifreeze or battery water but for Diesel I like something more robust. Nalgene version of the bottles in post #4 are industrial grade.
 
My primaries will gravity fill with the valve open. Then about 75 pumps on the fuel lift pump to fill and bleed the secondaries.
 
I use a gear oil bottle (after being drained of course) from doing work on the car. I needed a good squeeze bottle as clearance above the Racor is not great, and I figured it would good with hydrocarbons. Been fine for years.
gearoilbottle.jpeg
 
Cheap plastic bottles don't hold up well to diesel over time. The wrong plastic will turn soft or dissolve. An inline electric pump makes changing filters and bleeding line easy.
 
"Wow! I had no idea ATF burned like (or similar to) diesel."

ATF is used in most diesel car and truck repair shops , as it is both clean and easier to use than a shop can of fuel.
 
Many common plastic containers, even lube oil containers, ae very easy to puncture when stored in a vibrating environment against a hard surface. I always wrap them in oil diapers for protection against rubbing against something.
 
"but Cummins is specific in their manual to NOT add diesel to the secondary fuel filter when it is changed."

This is because the fuel using to top off has not been filtered.

The simplest way to top off with a clean fuel is to open a quart of ATF and use it.

Any left over can simply be dumped into the fuel tank.

I use ATF on my two trucks and tractor. It is very high detergent it cleans injectors and lubes the pump. I add some to the tanks as well. I learned of this from a very good diesel mechanic and have used it for years. HTH JD PS you can install a cheap 12V priming pump up stream of your filters for about 30$$ +/_ and it will help if you need to bleed the injector system. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YDG26...SO&pd_rd_r=E903FHK9DEQ0F3R41DZ3&pd_rd_w=sRL0z
 
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I also use ATF similar bottles tonmuir I do not reuse them

Pieyed I would love to see a picture of this install very good idea!!
 
"but Cummins is specific in their manual to NOT add diesel to the secondary fuel filter when it is changed."

This is because the fuel using to top off has not been filtered.

The simplest way to top off with a clean fuel is to open a quart of ATF and use it.

Any left over can simply be dumped into the fuel tank.



I don’t think that’s a good plan for any of the common rail injection engines.
 
Rather than adding an electric pump to prime your filters etc... This is the idea that I mentioned earlier by Tony Athens (not that he thought of it but I saw the idea from some of his articles). This is an image of a kit that he sells. I think he sells the kit so he doesn’t have to constantly answer questions as to where someone can find the parts.

It is just a loop that includes a squeeze bulb. In normal operation the valves to the loop are closed. Then you need to prime the filters you open the valves to the loop and close the valve between. Pump the bulb until the filters are full then close off the loop valves and open the center valve. No reason to buy the kit from Seaboard Marine, as you can source all the pieces individually. However for me, I’d much rather buy it from Seaboard to make it easy and to support Tony Athens who has been pretty free with his information and advice (much like Compass Marine Services).


I have not done this yet because with patience I can get my Racors to fill if my fuel tanks are full.
IMG_0359.jpg
 
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