Gear Oil Cooler

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Rebel112r

Guru
Joined
Feb 26, 2013
Messages
648
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Rogue
Vessel Make
North Pacific 42
Today was getaway day for Rogue. After checking fluids, and finding strawberry milkshake in transmission, We are now on hold. New cooler on the way, transmission waiting to be flushed. Will use a mix of diesel and ATF to flush. Hopefully 2 times should do it. Trans does have a drain plug, which simplifies flushing. Cooler was 10 year old. Could be worse. All easy to get to, and if overnight UPS works, should have repairs done tomorrow and get away Thursday, am keeping my fingers crossed!
 
It's always nice to have these problems before you leave port. What make transmission and what was the cooler cost?
 
Cummings QSB 330 2007 vintage and Huerth ZF80a.
 
And a CHAMP cooler. Hope you ordered a Sendure unit. TYhe sendure are built of better materials and have provision for zincs anode which the Champs do not.

YOu will get a bunch of years out of it regardless but just be aware if it was Champ that thing should have been changed a few years ago.
 
As mentioned, gear coolers with a pencil anode will last just about forever, if you remember to change the anode. Coolers without the anode but have cast end caps, can often be drilled and tapped for a a 1/4" mpt pencil.

Ted
 
From my experience, the copper ones often come with anodes, the Cupronickle ones often don't because their galvanic corrosion potential is almost non existent.

Zincs won't hurt ultimately, but check the material and see what has what.
 
Bring lots of ATF and means to do fluid changes. It will take some running time to get all the water churned up. Doubt two changes will get it clean. Run for the day, then when you tie up do a change. Usually three or four changes needed.

If a twin engine boat, change you other gear cooler too.
 
You should buy another cooler to keep as a spare and change them out every few years and clean the take-off. As you have found out, cheap insurance.
 
Flushed and ran twice yesterday, left drain plug out overnight. Installed new cooler today flushed again 2 qts diesel 2 qts ATF. Drained and let sit for an hour with plug out. Buttoned it up and refilled. Ready to go and ready to change again if needed. Thanks for the replies.
 
Don't quit yet.
Take an oil sample.
Pay attention to Ski's comments. Failure to really clear the water may ruin the bearings and gears. It's salt water and any residue will slowly etch the expensive parts.
.
Be absolutely sure that the water is gone.
 
Bring lots of ATF and means to do fluid changes. It will take some running time to get all the water churned up. Doubt two changes will get it clean. Run for the day, then when you tie up do a change. Usually three or four changes needed.

If a twin engine boat, change you other gear cooler too.


Ok.:thumb: You changed fluid twice, now do as Ski says above.:dance:
 
Rigged up the old cooler to pressure test. 60 psi of air into, oil in, nary a sign of bubbles out of water side. Also ran boat for 3 hrs today, fuel run, all good when done. Will continue to check. I don't think that a hell of a lot of water got into gear box, just enough to get it milky, there was no free water run out when plug was removed. Must be a hairline crack somewhere in cooler.
 
Greetings,
Mr. R. I don't have a solution but I would think that 60psi would certainly produce a telltale even if the crack is hairline...
 
I agree, maybe it fixed itself. No other place for water to get into gearbox, unless The engine room filled up, which has not happened, yet! It is a mystery.
 
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