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Old 12-28-2019, 11:08 PM   #21
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Defender has a street ell that is 1/4” NPT.
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Old 12-28-2019, 11:37 PM   #22
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Commodave,

I found the street elbows down to 1/8 NPT.

Could not find a hose/pipe adapter less than 1/2" he would still be searching around.

He would still need the hose adapter.




https://www.defender.com/product.jsp...418&id=4205215
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Old 12-28-2019, 11:46 PM   #23
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I guess that the smallest pipe to hose adapter they have is 1/2” so it may not work. But they do have 1/4” street ell so he would still have to find a 1/4” pipe to hose adapter. The problem may be if he goes with all these adapters they may be very heavy and put too much stress on the threads of the stuffing box. I just entered bronze pipe fittings in the Defender search box.
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Old 12-29-2019, 12:37 AM   #24
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If the hole is 1/4” pipe, you need a 1/4” Street elbow, a 1/4 X 1/8 bushing and a 1/8” pipe nipple about 1-1/2” long. 3/8” id hose should push over a 1/8” pipe nipple.
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Old 12-29-2019, 04:03 PM   #25
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I think the water injection is both to lubricate a cutlass bearing on the inside of the deadwood, and as a bonus cool the packing gland. Is there a chance it was originally fed from a tee on the vented loop between the heat exchanger outlet and the exhaust elbow? That is the more common configuration, taking advantage of the fact that the exhaust takes far less water than the heat exchanger.
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Old 12-29-2019, 06:16 PM   #26
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My injection line comes from a port on the bottom of the heat exchanger, a hose barb.
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Old 12-29-2019, 06:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oil Gypsy View Post
One thing that I didn't mention was that after removal of the old fitting I had to tap out the threads on the gland, the thread turned out to be 1/4" NPT. One thing that I've wondered about is whether the hose size is critical as the fitting size would act as a restrictor. Is this correct.
Hose size is not critical. As you have discovered, a smaller ID hose will divert slightly less water to stuffing box. Either 1/2" or 3/8' hose will work. I used 3/8 hose.

1/4 NPT to 3/8 or 1/2 hose barb adapters are readily available on Amazon in brass. I prefer the 90 degree ones because I will probably step on a straight fitting and break it.

I replaced my 35 year old brass fittings with brass when I replaced the hoses. Make sure the hoses are secure against vibration. And yes, pull the hoses off and check annually.

If a fitting or hose breaks you will have water jetting up from stuffing box along with water gushing out from water pump. Bilge pumps should be on auto
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Old 12-29-2019, 06:39 PM   #28
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Yes, you may need to use what is available such as brass and change the fitting each year.

What you might do is get the bronze elbow that COmmodave referenced and then get the hose/pipe thread adapter in the brass and change that piece regularily each year.
That way you can get what you need as 1/4 or 3/8 hose barbs on a 1/4NPT are common.
At least the bronze elbow should be a long term installation.
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Old 12-29-2019, 07:45 PM   #29
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GB36 Water Cooled Stuffing Glands

Quote:
Originally Posted by catalinajack View Post
My injection line comes from a port on the bottom of the heat exchanger, a hose barb.


Is it on the raw water inlet side, or outlet side of the heat exchanger?
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Old 12-29-2019, 09:00 PM   #30
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The fitting hole size controls the flow. It wouldn't matter if you had 2" or 1/2" hose. Once the hose if full of flowing water, it can't enter the gland any faster than the hole allows it to leave. Says a lot about Ladysmith mechanics.
Old style stuffing boxes also have a grease fitting that applies grease into the packing. If used with waterproof grease, makes any packing drip proof. Doesn't require as much force on the packing. Packing lasts decades and the shaft doesn't have measurable wear.
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Old 12-30-2019, 03:42 AM   #31
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Lepke,

Im afraid derogatory comments can sometimes reflect on the person who makes them, it doesn't say anything about mechanics in Ladysmith, at the time of the failure the boat was in Everett, WA. In fact I cant see how where they are from matters, they were just trying to help.....
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Old 12-30-2019, 08:21 AM   #32
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Many Defever stuffing boxes, as Catalina Jack notes, have water injection ports attached. This is partly to supply oxygenated water to the portion of the drive shaft that can become oxygen-starved (it’s in a cavity in the hull with a cutlass bearing) and helps prevent crevice corrosion.

The hoses are fed from the oil cooler—the last cooling component on the engine before the exhaust elbow, so they have zero effect on engine temps.

I was never comfortable with the brass hose fittings attached to bronze stuffing boxes—or with having a hose below the waterline without a valve on it—so I swapped them for true bronze. I wasn’t able to find 3/8” bronze replacements anywhere (If someone finds a proven source, please post) so I had the stuffing boxes tapped for 1/2” fittings and added valves. I do plan to swap the levers out for something smaller. Works great.
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Old 12-30-2019, 02:42 PM   #33
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Here is a picture of the the hose and shut-off I recently installed at the anode ends of my heat exchangers. When I removed the hose barbs that had been threaded directly into the underside of the exchangers, I found one plugged with pencil anode detritus.
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Originally Posted by angus99 View Post
Many Defever stuffing boxes, as Catalina Jack notes, have water injection ports attached. This is partly to supply oxygenated water to the portion of the drive shaft that can become oxygen-starved (it’s in a cavity in the hull with a cutlass bearing) and helps prevent crevice corrosion.

The hoses are fed from the oil cooler—the last cooling component on the engine before the exhaust elbow, so they have zero effect on engine temps.

I was never comfortable with the brass hose fittings attached to bronze stuffing boxes—or with having a hose below the waterline without a valve on it—so I swapped them for true bronze. I wasn’t able to find 3/8” bronze replacements anywhere (If someone finds a proven source, please post) so I had the stuffing boxes tapped for 1/2” fittings and added valves. I do plan to swap the levers out for something smaller. Works great.
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Old 12-30-2019, 03:13 PM   #34
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I also have water injection for both stuffing boxes. Mine are T'd off the main water line just before the exhaust elbow - so no impact to engine cooling.

Ken
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Old 12-31-2019, 06:21 PM   #35
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I had a thought??????

Do you know any one with a lathe? Get a piece of silicon bronze rod of adequate size and have him/her make a hose adapter to work with what you have. I looked at Jamestown Distributors and they do supply rods. cMaster Carr may also. Not cheap but at least it would be suitable material. THere will be a slight difference in the alloys but they should all be good for many years.

Get the bronze street elbow from Defender in the 1/4NPT to suit what you did on the stuffing box you tapped.

Even a small machine shop nearby but ask first about the cost for the machining.

Ask at the boatyard. SOme will have access to such tools or folk who can do it.
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Old 01-03-2020, 04:06 PM   #36
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For what is worth based on my ocean crossing experience, I decided to install and use Kobelt's Vessel Monitoring System Vitals VT700. This system has the nice feature to have built-in SmartBus where I can attache many temperature sensors just tapping of 3 wire bus so I don't need to run separate wire from each sensor to the system.
I have temperature sensors on my shaft seal that monitors the temperature of the seal. Vitals also gets information about the ambient temperature of the surrounding water, from the depth sounder. The Vitals Vessel Monitor subtracts the water temperature from the shaft seal temperature and if the difference gets more than 10 deg F it gives me a warning and if more than 15 deg F, I get an alarm. I don't need to worry about shaft seal temperature and most importantly it does not give me false alarms as regular temperature measurement would with the change of water temperature over the seasons or going from North to South. If the cooling water gets interrupted for any reason, and the shaft seal temperature raises, I will get immediate alarm and can make the appropriate decision.
This Vessel Monitoring unit is fully customizable and it has many more wonderful features that make my cruising easy. I monitor, my alternators temperature, my engine room temperature and many others. Boating couldn't be easier...
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Old 01-03-2020, 06:43 PM   #37
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To the OP, I would buff the shaft seal hardware to see if the pinkish tinge is more than skin deep before going to the trouble and expense of replacement. Also, about that brass piece you put in the unit; well, that is a no-no, and I have personal experience with one failing. I found plenty of nylon fittings which worked in my application. Metal is NOT a requirement.
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Old 01-10-2020, 12:08 AM   #38
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A big bonus from having a water feed to the stuffing box is that when you do a fresh water flush, (you do regularly, right?) it evacuates the salt water from the gland. This is especially vital anytime you’re laid up for a while, as salt water sitting in the gland can damage the shaft.
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Old 01-11-2020, 12:05 AM   #39
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I would like to thank everyone for taking the time to reply, a wealth of information. As I plan on keeping the boat for quite a while I'm going to bite the bullet and change the glands in the spring, I'm going to get some bronze pipe and fabricate a connector for the hose. Im still stuck on how to install a shut off valve but will post pictures when Ive finished. Once again thanks...
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